In August 2023, daughter Jill and I went on a 7-day Greek Enchantment cruise with Holland America. We sailed Venice to Athens, with port stops in Croatia, Turkey, and Greece. And ahead of our cruise, we spent two days in Venice, the world-renowned City of Canals. Our journey was memorable from start to finish!
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our 10-day holiday.
This story, part of a series, is about our second day in Venice.
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our 10-day holiday.
This story, part of a series, is about our second day in Venice.
Venice, Italy (August 18, 2023) I love this photo of Jill and me, snapped on the canopied terrace of Harry’s Dolci, a restaurant located on the small island of Giudecca—one of 118 islands on which Venice was built. Our table—it was dinnertime—overlooked the blue-green water of the Venetian Lagoon, an enclosed bay that surrounds Venice. The colorful skyline across the lagoon, in the Dorsoduro neighborhood of Venice, includes my favorite church, Saint Mary of the Rosary—beautiful both inside and out.
The lagoon and skyline served as a picturesque backdrop for two very happy travelers—happy because we had an awesome day in the City of Canals!
The lagoon and skyline served as a picturesque backdrop for two very happy travelers—happy because we had an awesome day in the City of Canals!
I had the foresight to book a walking tour that started at 10AM, which afforded us another hour or two of shut eye that morning. And boy, we needed it after 31 hours—the duration of our trip from Phoenix to Venice on the 16th and 17th— without sleep.
In my first story, I sang the praises of our room at the Hilton Molino Stucky. It was spacious, clean, and well-maintained, and with hindsight, I can add that it was quiet, too.
Our hotel package included the breakfast buffet, served in Il Molino, an airy first-floor restaurant. There were two rooms—the dining room, where we ate, and a separate room that housed one of the grandest buffets I have ever experienced.
In my first story, I sang the praises of our room at the Hilton Molino Stucky. It was spacious, clean, and well-maintained, and with hindsight, I can add that it was quiet, too.
Our hotel package included the breakfast buffet, served in Il Molino, an airy first-floor restaurant. There were two rooms—the dining room, where we ate, and a separate room that housed one of the grandest buffets I have ever experienced.
The selection of foods was superb—cold cuts, yogurt, potatoes, bacon, eggs, made-to-order waffles, breads, donuts, pastries, salad, fruits, candies…you name it, it was likely there—and everything I tasted was delicious!
“Well, that should hold us until early afternoon,” Jill said with a satisfied look on her face.
And indeed, it did.
Welcome to Venice
Soon after breakfast, we boarded a vaporetto—a water bus—for a 20-minute ride to the pier at San Marco, and from there we walked to Chiesa (Church) San Giacomo di Rialto, the starting point for our tour.
On the way, we crossed the Rialto Bridge, the oldest of four bridges that span the Grand Canal, and as we did, we departed San Marco and entered San Polo. The present stone bridge, an ‘architectural icon’ and top tourist attraction—"beware of pickpockets,” we were warned—was completed in 1591.
And indeed, it did.
Welcome to Venice
Soon after breakfast, we boarded a vaporetto—a water bus—for a 20-minute ride to the pier at San Marco, and from there we walked to Chiesa (Church) San Giacomo di Rialto, the starting point for our tour.
On the way, we crossed the Rialto Bridge, the oldest of four bridges that span the Grand Canal, and as we did, we departed San Marco and entered San Polo. The present stone bridge, an ‘architectural icon’ and top tourist attraction—"beware of pickpockets,” we were warned—was completed in 1591.
(For the record, no one picked my pocket—nor Jill’s!)
While historians have debated the year that Chiesa San Giacomo was built (was it 421, the year that Venice was founded, or was it 1071…or perhaps another year?), there was general agreement that it was the oldest church in this venerable city. And of the many churches I saw as we wandered through Venice—two dozen or more—it was the only one, to the best of my recollection, that had a clock tower. Built in the 15th century, the 24-hour clock—it was enormous—had only one hand…but was not always accurate.
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I booked our three-hour walking tour, Welcome to Venice, through City Experiences.
Discover the magic of Venice on foot and by water on a combined walking tour and gondola ride. Explore the city center with a local guide, marvel at the inside of St. Mark’s Basilica, and then take a ride down the canals on the city’s famous mode of transport.
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Welcome to Venice was a small group tour—a dozen people or so—led by Sara, an English-speaking guide. She was very knowledgeable about the culture, architecture, and history of Venice, and she freely shared her knowledge with us.
(Don’t worry, though—I won’t be as ‘free’ with information as Sara was, or I’d lose you as a reader. So, what follows are the highlights from this tour—and even then, in a condensed form.)
“The streets of Venice have a name,” Sara said after she introduced herself. “They are called calle, from the Latin word callis, which means path. Calle form a complicated maze of pedestrian walkways—some broad, others narrow, and all bordered by buildings on both sides.
“If you stay within the sound of my voice,” she said with a smile, “you will not get lost.”
(The ‘sound of my voice’ was transmitted through headsets that Sara distributed to one and all.)
Sara led us at a relaxing pace—not too slow and not too fast, with numerous stops along the way. And as we walked from Chiesa San Giacomo, the sound of Sara’s voice filled my right ear.
“During the 6th century, people fled the mainland after the fall of the Roman Empire to escape Germanic invasions. They came here, to a few of the islands in the lagoon, because this land was difficult to reach, easy to defend, and provided an abundant supply of fish, a mainstay of their diet.”
(I jotted down notes on a notepad app as Sara talked.)
As if on cue, we reached the Mercati di Rialto, “the best place in Venice to buy seafood, fruit, and vegetables,” as well as pastas and other staples.
“Venice has a centuries-old fishing tradition,” Sara began. “In the Venetian Lagoon and Adriatic Sea, fisherman caught—and still do—sea bass, tuna, cuttlefish, crabs, clams, shrimp and much, much more. And according to historical records, this place—the Rialto Market—was where they sold their catch. That makes this site the oldest fish market in Venice, nearly 1000 years old.”
(Don’t worry, though—I won’t be as ‘free’ with information as Sara was, or I’d lose you as a reader. So, what follows are the highlights from this tour—and even then, in a condensed form.)
“The streets of Venice have a name,” Sara said after she introduced herself. “They are called calle, from the Latin word callis, which means path. Calle form a complicated maze of pedestrian walkways—some broad, others narrow, and all bordered by buildings on both sides.
“If you stay within the sound of my voice,” she said with a smile, “you will not get lost.”
(The ‘sound of my voice’ was transmitted through headsets that Sara distributed to one and all.)
Sara led us at a relaxing pace—not too slow and not too fast, with numerous stops along the way. And as we walked from Chiesa San Giacomo, the sound of Sara’s voice filled my right ear.
“During the 6th century, people fled the mainland after the fall of the Roman Empire to escape Germanic invasions. They came here, to a few of the islands in the lagoon, because this land was difficult to reach, easy to defend, and provided an abundant supply of fish, a mainstay of their diet.”
(I jotted down notes on a notepad app as Sara talked.)
As if on cue, we reached the Mercati di Rialto, “the best place in Venice to buy seafood, fruit, and vegetables,” as well as pastas and other staples.
“Venice has a centuries-old fishing tradition,” Sara began. “In the Venetian Lagoon and Adriatic Sea, fisherman caught—and still do—sea bass, tuna, cuttlefish, crabs, clams, shrimp and much, much more. And according to historical records, this place—the Rialto Market—was where they sold their catch. That makes this site the oldest fish market in Venice, nearly 1000 years old.”
We followed Sara a short distance—a little more than the length of a football field—to the edge of a large canal.
“This is the Grand Canal—the most important waterway of Venice,” said Sara. “It is nearly four kilometers long.”
(“That’s about two and one-half miles,” I whispered to Jill.)
“It’s not very deep—on average, about five meters.”
(Jill looked at me, and I softly said, “About 16 feet.”)
“The Grand Canal meanders in a reverse S-shape through the entire city, from the northwest to the southeast,” Sara continued. “One of its unique features are the centuries-old palaces on both sides of the water, with an eclectic mix of architectural styles. These were not royal palaces, mind you; rather, they were magnificent homes owned by wealthy Venetian families. Many of these homes—perhaps most—have been repurposed over the years.”
“This is the Grand Canal—the most important waterway of Venice,” said Sara. “It is nearly four kilometers long.”
(“That’s about two and one-half miles,” I whispered to Jill.)
“It’s not very deep—on average, about five meters.”
(Jill looked at me, and I softly said, “About 16 feet.”)
“The Grand Canal meanders in a reverse S-shape through the entire city, from the northwest to the southeast,” Sara continued. “One of its unique features are the centuries-old palaces on both sides of the water, with an eclectic mix of architectural styles. These were not royal palaces, mind you; rather, they were magnificent homes owned by wealthy Venetian families. Many of these homes—perhaps most—have been repurposed over the years.”
A good example was the light-colored building behind Jill’s hat. It’s the Galleria Giogio Franchetta alla Ca’ D’Oro—an art gallery housed in a 15th century palace that was last owned by Baron Giogio Franchetta. When it was built, Sara told us, “The façade shimmered with gold leaf, thus it was known as Ca’ D’Oro, which means House of Gold.”
Sara guided us through streets and alleyways and across many canals with certainty—after all, this was her city—on a route I could never retrace. And as we walked, she pointed to the architecture of various buildings we passed.
“That one, with pointed arches and an asymmetrical design, is Venetian Gothic—a style unique to Venice.” “This church, with its large dome, has a Byzantine influence. Some say it was the first type of architectural design used by Venetians.” |
“Ahh…here we have a wonderful example of Renaissance architecture, which featured columns, arches, and ornate decorations on the façade.”
And so on and so forth. My experience in Venice reminded me of my experience in Rome: I was awed by the architecture, which was rich and diverse, and felt as though I had traveled back in time—which I had, in a sense, because the varied styles dated back more than a millennium. |
Lost in my thoughts, I heard the tail end of something Sara had said.
“Excuse me. Would you please repeat what you just said?”
“Sure,” she replied. “The famous Italian adventurer, Marco Polo—who was also a merchant and writer—once lived in this building.”
That’s historically significant, but there’s not much to see beyond a plaque, I thought as I gazed at a nondescript building, my camera in hand to snap a pic.
And then she added, “Well, it’s believed he once lived here.”
That sealed it for me—no pedigree, no photo!
Soon we walked through an archway and into a large square. I checked my watch. It was 11:45.
“Dad, according to my step counter, we’ve walked about 2,500 steps—a little over a mile.”
“Given how much we’ve seen,” I replied, “I would have guessed more.”
“Excuse me. Would you please repeat what you just said?”
“Sure,” she replied. “The famous Italian adventurer, Marco Polo—who was also a merchant and writer—once lived in this building.”
That’s historically significant, but there’s not much to see beyond a plaque, I thought as I gazed at a nondescript building, my camera in hand to snap a pic.
And then she added, “Well, it’s believed he once lived here.”
That sealed it for me—no pedigree, no photo!
Soon we walked through an archway and into a large square. I checked my watch. It was 11:45.
“Dad, according to my step counter, we’ve walked about 2,500 steps—a little over a mile.”
“Given how much we’ve seen,” I replied, “I would have guessed more.”
“Please gather around me,” I heard Sara say. “In 15 minutes, we will go inside the Basilica di San Marco—Saint Mark’s Basilica—but first, I’d like to tell you about this square and a few of its landmarks.
“This is Piazza San Marco—St. Mark’s Square—which was created in the ninth century. Like all of Venice, St. Mark’s was built atop tree trunks—some say there are 100,000 here alone—driven into the muddy ground. St. Mark’s is the largest Square in Venice, and it is the closest to the water—a mere three feet above sea level.” Someone asked, “Has this square ever flooded?” |
“Yes, and the last time was in 2019,” Sara answered, “when a storm surge from the Adriatic Sea raised the level of the water by almost six feet. More than 80% of the city was flooded.”
Yowza! I quietly exclaimed to myself.
And then Sara ‘walked’ us around the piazza, a feat she accomplished without moving other than to pivot 360 degrees as she talked.
“The archway we walked through sits below the Torre dell’Orologio, also known as Saint Mark’s Clock Tower. It was built in the 15th century.”
(Inexplicably, I failed to take a photo of the clock tower!)
Yowza! I quietly exclaimed to myself.
And then Sara ‘walked’ us around the piazza, a feat she accomplished without moving other than to pivot 360 degrees as she talked.
“The archway we walked through sits below the Torre dell’Orologio, also known as Saint Mark’s Clock Tower. It was built in the 15th century.”
(Inexplicably, I failed to take a photo of the clock tower!)
“There are several buildings in the open courtyard at the south end of the piazza. The farthest building, which may be the most visited, is the Museo Correr, a museum named for its benefactor, Teodoro Correr. Built in the early 1800s, it houses a collection of documents, objects, and art that reflect the history of Venice.
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“This is the Campanile di San Marco, the bell tower of the Basilica. It is 323 feet tall—the tallest building in Venice. If it looks new to you, it is. It was rebuilt in 1912, ten years after it collapsed. By the way, if you feel energetic, you can climb the steps—there are 323—to the top of the tower. The views from there are amazing!
“And there, to the right of the Basilica, is Palazzo Ducale—the Doge’s Palace. The original building, built in the 14th and 15th centuries, was the principal residence of the doge, or chief magistrate of Venice. It was repurposed as a museum in the early 1900s.” (Again, I let myself down—no photo of the Doge’s Palace.) |
That was our whirlwind excursion to the major landmarks in the piazza—a to-the-point oral version of Piazza San Marco for Dummies! But it was not the end of our tour.
“And now I’d like to share some information about the Basilica with you before we go in,” Sara said.
“And now I’d like to share some information about the Basilica with you before we go in,” Sara said.
“Saint Marks, which was founded in 828, was established to house the relics—the remains, if you will—of Mark the Evangelist, who lived in the first century AD. He is believed to be the author of the Gospel of Mark and, although Mark was not a direct disciple of Jesus, he helped spread the Gospel as a missionary.
“The Basilica, which was rebuilt in the late 10th century and consecrated in 1094, is renowned for its Byzantine architecture—although you will also see elements of Gothic and Renaissance design.” |
“Let’s go inside,” said Sara.
Our 20-minute tour—I would have spent hours inside, had I had the time—started in the Atrium, which had a wonderful ceiling mosaic that depicted the Garden of Eden, the Great Flood, and other stories from the Old Testament. From the Atrium, we entered the Nave. The photos that follow are the best way for me to share Basilica di San Marco and its gilded beauty with you.
Our 20-minute tour—I would have spent hours inside, had I had the time—started in the Atrium, which had a wonderful ceiling mosaic that depicted the Garden of Eden, the Great Flood, and other stories from the Old Testament. From the Atrium, we entered the Nave. The photos that follow are the best way for me to share Basilica di San Marco and its gilded beauty with you.
One cannot appreciate how crowded the Basilica was from these photos—thousands of tourists visit it every day—because I waited for opportune times to snap these pics. Trust me, it was crowded, and most everyone vied for the same thing—a great photo or two. And while people were respectful of the environment they were in—a House of God—the crowded atmosphere, though far from chaotic, did not lend itself well to quiet inner reflection.
Still, I loved and appreciated the magnificent architecture—tall columns, wide arches, and high domes—and intricate mosaics. Without a doubt, Basilica di San Marco was one of the most spectacular cathedrals I have visited.
When our group reassembled outside the Basilica, Sara said, “Are you ready for a gondola ride?”
The resounding answer was, “Yes!”
Sara escorted us to Bacino Orseolo, a small basin at the confluence of two canals, where Jill and I boarded a gondola that we shared with a newlywed couple from the States.
Still, I loved and appreciated the magnificent architecture—tall columns, wide arches, and high domes—and intricate mosaics. Without a doubt, Basilica di San Marco was one of the most spectacular cathedrals I have visited.
When our group reassembled outside the Basilica, Sara said, “Are you ready for a gondola ride?”
The resounding answer was, “Yes!”
Sara escorted us to Bacino Orseolo, a small basin at the confluence of two canals, where Jill and I boarded a gondola that we shared with a newlywed couple from the States.
As our gondolier stood on the stern of the 32-foot, flat-bottomed gondola, he propelled us with the forward strokes of a long oar that rested in an elaborately carved wooden oarlock. Our route was mostly along small and quiet canals—but also included a section of the Grand Canal.
And to answer your question, ‘No’—our gondolier did not sing or play an instrument...but he might have for extra pay! |
Before Venice, my only gondola ride was many years ago, in the mid-80s, with my wife, Debra, at the Venetian in Las Vegas. That ride, through a recreated Grand Canal, was intimate and romantic—and yes, the gondolier serenaded us. But now, with Jill, I had experienced the real deal—the genuine thing—a gondola ride in Venice, and it was truly a special experience!
“Well, dad, are you ready for lunch?”
“I worked up an appetite on the canals,” I said with a wink, “so yeah, I am. You pick the restaurant.”
Jill chose Trattoria Pizzeria ai Fabbri, where we ordered a large salad, a couple of personal size pizzas, and a half-carafe of wine. The small restaurant had a nice atmosphere, and the staff were friendly.
Jill pronounced the pizza ‘okay,’ while I thought it was a step or two above that. Either way, it was just the ticket to carry us to dinner.
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Rosario and More
“Jill, I’ve been dying to see the Church of Saint Mary of the Rosary, and now is the time for me to do so. Would you like to join me?”
“Thanks, but no,” she replied. “I’m going to shop for a purse, and maybe a bracelet, before I head back to the hotel.”
“See you later, then,” I said as I walked one way and Jill walked another.
“Well, dad, are you ready for lunch?”
“I worked up an appetite on the canals,” I said with a wink, “so yeah, I am. You pick the restaurant.”
Jill chose Trattoria Pizzeria ai Fabbri, where we ordered a large salad, a couple of personal size pizzas, and a half-carafe of wine. The small restaurant had a nice atmosphere, and the staff were friendly.
Jill pronounced the pizza ‘okay,’ while I thought it was a step or two above that. Either way, it was just the ticket to carry us to dinner.
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Rosario and More
“Jill, I’ve been dying to see the Church of Saint Mary of the Rosary, and now is the time for me to do so. Would you like to join me?”
“Thanks, but no,” she replied. “I’m going to shop for a purse, and maybe a bracelet, before I head back to the hotel.”
“See you later, then,” I said as I walked one way and Jill walked another.
‘One way’ was a twenty-five-minute walk southeast through San Polo, across the Rialto Bridge to San Marco, and along streets and alleyway to the lower section of the Grand Canal. There, I crossed the canal on the Ponte dell’Accademia—the Academy Bridge—to the Dorsoduro neighborhood of Venice. I looked east when I reached the apex of the bridge; there I was rewarded with this wonderful view of the domed Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute—a 17th century Roman Catholic church.
(I have a truth to share with you: I never grew tired of the scenic views no matter where I was in Venice!) |
A few minutes later, I stood on the promenade in front of Chiesa di Santa Maria del Rosario—the Church of Saint Mary of the Rosary.
The façade, I thought, is MAGNIFICENT!
The ornamented triangular pediment was supported by eight massive Corinthian pilasters, four to a side. There were four niches—two on either side of the main entrance—with large statues that represented (I later read) the cardinal virtues of Christian theology: Prudence, Justice, Fortitude, and Temperance.
The façade, I thought, is MAGNIFICENT!
The ornamented triangular pediment was supported by eight massive Corinthian pilasters, four to a side. There were four niches—two on either side of the main entrance—with large statues that represented (I later read) the cardinal virtues of Christian theology: Prudence, Justice, Fortitude, and Temperance.
Looking at Saint Mary from across the Venetian Lagoon
Saint Mary was built in the 18th century (1725-1743). The principals were three Venetian artists: the architect Giorgio Massari, the sculptor Giovanni Maria Morlaiter, and the painter Giambattista Tiepolo.
I paid a small entrance fee—a few euro—to enter the nave, and it was well worth it because I viewed the arches, statuary, frescoes, and many of the other features up close and personal.
As an aside, my visit WAS personal since there were only a handful of other visitors in the church while I was there. This atmosphere, I thought, will be more conducive to quiet meditation and prayer.
It was.
The most striking features in the interior, IMHO, were the three frescos that adorned the ceiling—the work of painter Giambattista Tiepolo. Completed in 1739, they were titled Glory of St. Dominic, Institution of the Rosary, and Appearance of the Virgin to St. Dominic—left to right in the photo below.
I paid a small entrance fee—a few euro—to enter the nave, and it was well worth it because I viewed the arches, statuary, frescoes, and many of the other features up close and personal.
As an aside, my visit WAS personal since there were only a handful of other visitors in the church while I was there. This atmosphere, I thought, will be more conducive to quiet meditation and prayer.
It was.
The most striking features in the interior, IMHO, were the three frescos that adorned the ceiling—the work of painter Giambattista Tiepolo. Completed in 1739, they were titled Glory of St. Dominic, Institution of the Rosary, and Appearance of the Virgin to St. Dominic—left to right in the photo below.
There were paintings and sculptures throughout the nave—more than 20 in total—and I stopped to look at each as I moved in a counterclockwise direction.
I must share something that amused me; actually, it was something that made me laugh at myself: The floor, as you can see in the photo above, was tiled with geometric shapes that were step-like in appearance, and several times my mind was tricked into believing they were steps, as I attempted to step up or step down, depending on the direction I walked!
A house of worship, no matter the religion it represents, is a special place for quiet reflection. So when I finished my tour of the nave, I took a seat in a pew and silently spoke with God, mindful of and grateful for my small role in His vast universe.
From Saint Mary, I walked a short distance to the Gallerie dell’Accademia—the Accademia Gallery. Inside I found a large collection of Venetian art from the 14th to 18th century. I must admit that I knew but one artist’s name—Titian, who painted during the 16th century—yet my lack of familiarity with the artists represented in this gallery did not diminish my experience there. The Accademia, which occupies three buildings—originally, a church, monastery, and social club for wealthy citizens--was founded in the middle of the 18th century. |
I wandered through the many rooms, not lingering in one place for too long. What impressed me most about these masterpieces were their size—some were massive—and rich colors.
There are many great museums in Venice, but this was the only one I visited. I felt I had made a good choice, not only for the reasons I cited above, but also because, like Saint Mary, there were few visitors that hour that day, so I could gaze at each painting unobstructed and see each one in its entirety. That was a treat!
It took 25-minutes to reach the Dorsoduro neighborhood and 25-minutes to return to the pier on San Marco—two to three miles roundtrip. I purchased a souvenir—a Venice t-shirt—from a street vendor on the way back, and then boarded the vaporetto to the Hilton.
It took 25-minutes to reach the Dorsoduro neighborhood and 25-minutes to return to the pier on San Marco—two to three miles roundtrip. I purchased a souvenir—a Venice t-shirt—from a street vendor on the way back, and then boarded the vaporetto to the Hilton.
Jill was in the room when I arrived. She told me about her afternoon—she bought neither a purse nor bracelet—and I told her about mine. An hour later, after I showered and donned fresh clothes—Jill had already done so—we walked to Harry’s Dolci for dinner.
We started with appetizers—a cucumber salad with sweet corn, tomatoes, and avocado for Jill, Cipriani ricotta and datterino tomatoes for me. Deelish!
And then it was time for our entrees.
Jill ordered shrimp risotto, which she paired with a glass of Prosecco, while I opted for Chilean sea bass and a glass of chardonnay.
We started with appetizers—a cucumber salad with sweet corn, tomatoes, and avocado for Jill, Cipriani ricotta and datterino tomatoes for me. Deelish!
And then it was time for our entrees.
Jill ordered shrimp risotto, which she paired with a glass of Prosecco, while I opted for Chilean sea bass and a glass of chardonnay.
WE. LOVED. OUR. MEALS!
And the service—no rush, two hours from start to finish—was impeccable. In hindsight, that dinner was the best dining experience we had during our 10-day trip.
And that was my second day in Venice—an outstanding day from morning to night!
Click to read my next story, First by Land, Then by Sea.
And the service—no rush, two hours from start to finish—was impeccable. In hindsight, that dinner was the best dining experience we had during our 10-day trip.
And that was my second day in Venice—an outstanding day from morning to night!
Click to read my next story, First by Land, Then by Sea.