In August 2023, daughter Jill and I went on a 7-day Greek Enchantment cruise with Holland America. We sailed Venice to Athens, with port stops in Croatia, Turkey, and Greece. And ahead of our cruise, we spent two days in Venice, the world-renowned City of Canals. Our journey was memorable from start to finish!
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our 10-day holiday.
This story, part of a series, is about our third day--the day we left Venice and arrived in Trieste to board the Oosterdam.
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our 10-day holiday.
This story, part of a series, is about our third day--the day we left Venice and arrived in Trieste to board the Oosterdam.
The Oosterdam
Off the Coast of Croatia (Saturday, August 19, 2023) Once upon a time—way, way back in 2021—Jill and I would have taken a vaporetto from the Hilton Molino Stucky to the cruise port in Venice, where we would board the Oosterdam to begin our 7-day ‘Greek Enchantment’ cruise. Thirty minutes, tops.
That was then, and this was now—and ‘now’ we traveled by motor coach east from Venice to the seaport city of Trieste…and there we boarded the Oosterdam. Two and a half hours, and not a minute less.
“Why?”
I’m glad you asked.
On August 1, 2021, the Venice government banned large cruise ships from central Venice to ‘protect the artistic, cultural, and environmental heritage of Venice and its lagoon.’
“What?”
I’m glad you asked.
Scientists who studied underwater acoustics and geophysics found that big ships produced ‘depression wakes’ that eroded the shores and salt marshes and changed the morphology—the form and structure of animals and plants—of the lagoon that surrounds Venice and ‘weakened the urban fabric’ of its rocky border.
If Paul Harvey said it once, he said it a hundred times: “And now you know the rest of the story.”
(Aren’t you glad you asked?!)
That was then, and this was now—and ‘now’ we traveled by motor coach east from Venice to the seaport city of Trieste…and there we boarded the Oosterdam. Two and a half hours, and not a minute less.
“Why?”
I’m glad you asked.
On August 1, 2021, the Venice government banned large cruise ships from central Venice to ‘protect the artistic, cultural, and environmental heritage of Venice and its lagoon.’
“What?”
I’m glad you asked.
Scientists who studied underwater acoustics and geophysics found that big ships produced ‘depression wakes’ that eroded the shores and salt marshes and changed the morphology—the form and structure of animals and plants—of the lagoon that surrounds Venice and ‘weakened the urban fabric’ of its rocky border.
If Paul Harvey said it once, he said it a hundred times: “And now you know the rest of the story.”
(Aren’t you glad you asked?!)
Jill and I boarded a vaporetto at 9AM, together with 60 (or was it 80?) hotel guests who were also Oosterdam-bound, for a 15-minute ride to the Santa Lucia Railway Station. There we caught the motor coach that delivered us to Trieste.
(The name, Jill told me, is pronounced ‘tree-est’ by Americans and ‘tree-es-te’ by Italians.)
The bus was comfortable and the drive through the countryside was pleasant enough even if it wasn’t scenic. We passed a handful of towns and cities—San Dona di Piave, Portogruaro, and Monfalcone, to name a few—as we motored along several highways between Venice and Trieste.
There was little in the way of commercial industry, but there were farmlands galore. The cultivated crops, I later learned, included corn, wheat, potatoes, fruits, and grapes. I had no problem spotting the grapevines!
(The name, Jill told me, is pronounced ‘tree-est’ by Americans and ‘tree-es-te’ by Italians.)
The bus was comfortable and the drive through the countryside was pleasant enough even if it wasn’t scenic. We passed a handful of towns and cities—San Dona di Piave, Portogruaro, and Monfalcone, to name a few—as we motored along several highways between Venice and Trieste.
There was little in the way of commercial industry, but there were farmlands galore. The cultivated crops, I later learned, included corn, wheat, potatoes, fruits, and grapes. I had no problem spotting the grapevines!
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We had been on the road for two hours when our driver left European route E70 and merged onto the road for Trieste. Soon, I spied the deep blue water of the Adriatic Sea—the northernmost arm of the Mediterranean that separates Italy from the Balkan Peninsula.
“Jill, look at that! There are soooo many sailboats out to sea.” “I wish I was on one,” Jill said. |
“Really? I thought you got queasy on small boats.”
“I do, but the water looks calm today. Just saying.”
I left it at that.
And then, ten minutes later, we reached the outskirts of the city.
“THAT’S what I’d really love to do,” Jill said. “I can’t wait to go to the beach when we reach Rhodes in a few days!”
“I do, but the water looks calm today. Just saying.”
I left it at that.
And then, ten minutes later, we reached the outskirts of the city.
“THAT’S what I’d really love to do,” Jill said. “I can’t wait to go to the beach when we reach Rhodes in a few days!”
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The mile-long beach wasn’t packed, but plenty of folks were enjoying a day at the seashore. And why not? It was 83 degrees and sunny, and the water, I bet, felt great.
“Here’s what I’d love to do—board the Oosterdam!” I said to Jill. “Well, I see the ship just ahead, so soon your wish will come true,” Jill replied with a wink. And there it was. I checked my watch. It was a quarter past noon. Yep, I thought, two and a half hours, and not a minute less. |
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Kudos to Holland America because my boarding was the easiest embarkation process I’ve ever experienced—and with 30 cruises under my belt, I had perspective.
Jill and I found our cabin mid-aft on the port side of Deck 5—the Verandah Deck. Our stateroom wasn’t large, but it was comfortable, clean, and well appointed, with two twin beds, a love seat and desk, ample storage, and a balcony on the other side of a sliding glass door. Oh…there was a full-size tub in the bathroom, something I hadn’t seen on a cruise ship since my family sailed the Hawaiian Islands on the U.S.S. Independence in 1998!
“Are you hungry?” Jill asked after we freshened up.
“I am. Let’s go.”
Off we went to the Lido Market, the buffet restaurant located on Deck 9. There we found a dozen food stations—breads and pastries, soups and salads, sandwiches, fish and carved meats, vegetables, desserts, and more. Jill went in one direction, and I went in another—both in search of the perfect lunch—and ten minutes later we reconnected at a table by the window. As you can see, I went ‘Asian,’ and was glad I did because my meal was delicious!
Jill and I found our cabin mid-aft on the port side of Deck 5—the Verandah Deck. Our stateroom wasn’t large, but it was comfortable, clean, and well appointed, with two twin beds, a love seat and desk, ample storage, and a balcony on the other side of a sliding glass door. Oh…there was a full-size tub in the bathroom, something I hadn’t seen on a cruise ship since my family sailed the Hawaiian Islands on the U.S.S. Independence in 1998!
“Are you hungry?” Jill asked after we freshened up.
“I am. Let’s go.”
Off we went to the Lido Market, the buffet restaurant located on Deck 9. There we found a dozen food stations—breads and pastries, soups and salads, sandwiches, fish and carved meats, vegetables, desserts, and more. Jill went in one direction, and I went in another—both in search of the perfect lunch—and ten minutes later we reconnected at a table by the window. As you can see, I went ‘Asian,’ and was glad I did because my meal was delicious!
When we finished, Jill said, “We will join the press group for dinner in the dining room at six.”
“Any commitments between now and then?” I asked.
“Not a thing,” she replied.
“Perfect!”
“So, what are you going to do?”
“I’d love to go sightseeing in Trieste, but to tell you the truth, I’m a bit spent after two days in the hot sun in Venice. So, I think I’ll take a look-see at the city from the top deck and call it a tour,” I answered with a grin. “Care to join me?”
“I’m with you on the heat, so no. Instead, I’ll catch up on emails, Facebook posts, and the like…and put my feet up for a couple of hours. See you later.”
The best spot to see Trieste was one deck up—Deck 10, aptly named the Observation Deck. I climbed the stairs two at a time, and when I reached Deck 10, I walked towards the stern because it faced the city.
I knew nothing about Trieste apart from where it was—on a narrow strip of land in northeastern Italy between the Adriatic Sea and Slovenia, with Croatia about 20 miles to the south.
It was time to use a ‘lifeline,’ as contestants sometimes did on Who Wants to Be a Millionaire, to learn something of this seaport city.
With a few taps on my phone screen, I read this on justfunfacts.com:
“Any commitments between now and then?” I asked.
“Not a thing,” she replied.
“Perfect!”
“So, what are you going to do?”
“I’d love to go sightseeing in Trieste, but to tell you the truth, I’m a bit spent after two days in the hot sun in Venice. So, I think I’ll take a look-see at the city from the top deck and call it a tour,” I answered with a grin. “Care to join me?”
“I’m with you on the heat, so no. Instead, I’ll catch up on emails, Facebook posts, and the like…and put my feet up for a couple of hours. See you later.”
The best spot to see Trieste was one deck up—Deck 10, aptly named the Observation Deck. I climbed the stairs two at a time, and when I reached Deck 10, I walked towards the stern because it faced the city.
I knew nothing about Trieste apart from where it was—on a narrow strip of land in northeastern Italy between the Adriatic Sea and Slovenia, with Croatia about 20 miles to the south.
It was time to use a ‘lifeline,’ as contestants sometimes did on Who Wants to Be a Millionaire, to learn something of this seaport city.
With a few taps on my phone screen, I read this on justfunfacts.com:
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The history of Trieste began with the formation of a town of modest size in pre-Roman times, which became an actual city only after Roman conquest in the second century BC and subsequent colonization.
Trieste was one of the oldest parts of the Habsburg Monarchy, belonging to it from 1382 to 1918. The cosmopolitan city was incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy in 1918 following the First World War. Today, with one of the highest living standards among Italian cities, Trieste is a proud mix of cultures and architectural styles…and has a lively cultural scene with various theatres. |
(I read much more, of course, but ‘much more’ is beyond the scope of my story.)
Okay, Howard, I muttered to myself. You’ve learned a bit about this seaport city—enough for now. Time to take a few pictures.
Snap, snap, snap.
That should do it.
I made my way to the Lido Market—it was too hot outside for me—where I grabbed an iced tea, a couple of chocolate chip cookies, and a quiet table to study the photos I took. I also pulled up Google Map to zoom in on the buildings in my pics.
Dang, Howard—good job!
I was lucky, as I had captured a handful of important landmarks in two of my photos, with a quadfecta in one.
Okay, Howard, I muttered to myself. You’ve learned a bit about this seaport city—enough for now. Time to take a few pictures.
Snap, snap, snap.
That should do it.
I made my way to the Lido Market—it was too hot outside for me—where I grabbed an iced tea, a couple of chocolate chip cookies, and a quiet table to study the photos I took. I also pulled up Google Map to zoom in on the buildings in my pics.
Dang, Howard—good job!
I was lucky, as I had captured a handful of important landmarks in two of my photos, with a quadfecta in one.
1. Chiesa di San Nicolo dei Grecci--Greek Orthodox Church of Saint Nicholas. The first Greek immigrant, a merchant, settled in Trieste in 1714. The Greek community grew, and it built this church in 1784-1787.
2. Teatro Lirico Giuseppe Verdi—Giuseppe Verdi Lyric Theatre. Opened in April 1801, the theatre is ‘among the oldest opera houses in the world.’ The original name was Teatro Nuovo; in 1901, it was renamed in honor of the composer and maestro Giuseppe Verdi, best known for his operas Rigoletto and Aida.
3. Palazzo della Luogotenenza Austriaca—Palace of the Austrian Lieutenancy. Built in the first decade of the 20th century to replace an 18th century palace, it is 'one of the most important palaces in Trieste' because it houses the Prefecture of Trieste.
4. Piazza Unita d’Italia—Unity of Italy Square. There has been a plaza on this site since ancient times, although the current square, made of sandstone block, was completed in 2005. Known by many names over the centuries, it was renamed Piazza Unita d’Italia in 1955 when the city was returned to Italy after the dissolution of the Free Territory of Trieste.
2. Teatro Lirico Giuseppe Verdi—Giuseppe Verdi Lyric Theatre. Opened in April 1801, the theatre is ‘among the oldest opera houses in the world.’ The original name was Teatro Nuovo; in 1901, it was renamed in honor of the composer and maestro Giuseppe Verdi, best known for his operas Rigoletto and Aida.
3. Palazzo della Luogotenenza Austriaca—Palace of the Austrian Lieutenancy. Built in the first decade of the 20th century to replace an 18th century palace, it is 'one of the most important palaces in Trieste' because it houses the Prefecture of Trieste.
4. Piazza Unita d’Italia—Unity of Italy Square. There has been a plaza on this site since ancient times, although the current square, made of sandstone block, was completed in 2005. Known by many names over the centuries, it was renamed Piazza Unita d’Italia in 1955 when the city was returned to Italy after the dissolution of the Free Territory of Trieste.
5. Lanterna di Trieste—Lantern of Trieste. This lighthouse, a stone column with a cylindrical base that was completed in 1833, also served in the defense of the port of Trieste. It was decommissioned in 1927 after the Victory Lighthouse was built.
Interesting, I thought…and then I read about an iconic landmark within walking distance of the cruise port: The 1st century Teatro Romano—Roman Theatre. This tiered half-round theatre, made of masonry, was built onto a hillside with seating for 3,500 spectators. The theatre was ‘lost’ for many centuries when houses were built on top of the site; it was rediscovered in 1938 when part of the old city was demolished.
Dang—I would have loved to have seen that!
And to be honest, with so many nearby landmarks, I regretted my decision to forgo a tour of the city.
C’est la vie…but if I ever get back to Venice, I will have to spend a day in Trieste!
As I walked to our cabin, I heard one long blast from the ship’s horn—the well-known signal that we were leaving the dock. First stop: Split, Croatia.
That evening, at six, Jill and I joined the press group—a handful of journalists and their guests—and our Holland America hostess and her husband for dinner in the Vista Dining Room. The dining room encompasses two decks—Decks 2 and 3—with a spiral staircase between them. We dined on Deck 2.
We spent a half hour practicing the fine art of getting to know one another over cocktails. Everyone was pleasant and easy to talk to.
Our waiter appeared, and he soon stood next to me.
“Your order, sir?” he asked.
“I’d like the Caprese salad, Chilean seabass, and strawberries Romanoff.”
The Caprese salad, with fresh mozzarella and tomatoes, was refreshing, and the seabass, served with potato-olive galette and vegetables, was delicious. And my dessert—strawberries, vanilla ice cream, and a drizzle of Grand Marnier? Seriously, what’s not to like!
Dang—I would have loved to have seen that!
And to be honest, with so many nearby landmarks, I regretted my decision to forgo a tour of the city.
C’est la vie…but if I ever get back to Venice, I will have to spend a day in Trieste!
As I walked to our cabin, I heard one long blast from the ship’s horn—the well-known signal that we were leaving the dock. First stop: Split, Croatia.
That evening, at six, Jill and I joined the press group—a handful of journalists and their guests—and our Holland America hostess and her husband for dinner in the Vista Dining Room. The dining room encompasses two decks—Decks 2 and 3—with a spiral staircase between them. We dined on Deck 2.
We spent a half hour practicing the fine art of getting to know one another over cocktails. Everyone was pleasant and easy to talk to.
Our waiter appeared, and he soon stood next to me.
“Your order, sir?” he asked.
“I’d like the Caprese salad, Chilean seabass, and strawberries Romanoff.”
The Caprese salad, with fresh mozzarella and tomatoes, was refreshing, and the seabass, served with potato-olive galette and vegetables, was delicious. And my dessert—strawberries, vanilla ice cream, and a drizzle of Grand Marnier? Seriously, what’s not to like!
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The service was impeccable, the presentation was lovely, and, as I learned over the course of our cruise, the quality of the food served in the Vista Dining Room was outstanding.
I checked my watch. It was 8PM.
Hmm…11AM in Arizona. Time to video chat with Debra.
“Jill, I’m going to call mom. I’ll meet you in the theatre in 30 minutes—on the right side, first level. Save me a seat, please.”
(For the record, she did.)
I loved the video chat feature of Facebook, which enabled Debra to experience my travels real-time no matter where I was.
“Good morning, hon!” I said when she answered.
“And good afternoon to you,” she replied with a smile.
“Boy, I miss that smile,” I said. “Let me tell you about my day.”
And as I did, I gave her a brief tour of the ship through the front-facing camera so that she saw what I saw as I walked from deck to deck. The tour ended at the World Stage, as the theatre is called, where I soon reconnected with Jill.
“It sounds like you had a nice day,” Debra said. “I’m glad you had the good sense to stay onboard the ship rather than walk around Trieste.”
I chuckled.
“What?” she asked.
“I would have bet dollars to donuts you would say that. You’ve always been the practical one, and that’s one reason I love you!”
We finished our call, and I joined Jill a few minutes into the show. The Step One Dance Company performed a unique show themed around the tango that featured traditional and contemporary music. It was high energy and fun to watch!
And that was our day, as we made an easy transition from land to sea.
Please click to read my next story, A Country Home Visit in Croatia.
I checked my watch. It was 8PM.
Hmm…11AM in Arizona. Time to video chat with Debra.
“Jill, I’m going to call mom. I’ll meet you in the theatre in 30 minutes—on the right side, first level. Save me a seat, please.”
(For the record, she did.)
I loved the video chat feature of Facebook, which enabled Debra to experience my travels real-time no matter where I was.
“Good morning, hon!” I said when she answered.
“And good afternoon to you,” she replied with a smile.
“Boy, I miss that smile,” I said. “Let me tell you about my day.”
And as I did, I gave her a brief tour of the ship through the front-facing camera so that she saw what I saw as I walked from deck to deck. The tour ended at the World Stage, as the theatre is called, where I soon reconnected with Jill.
“It sounds like you had a nice day,” Debra said. “I’m glad you had the good sense to stay onboard the ship rather than walk around Trieste.”
I chuckled.
“What?” she asked.
“I would have bet dollars to donuts you would say that. You’ve always been the practical one, and that’s one reason I love you!”
We finished our call, and I joined Jill a few minutes into the show. The Step One Dance Company performed a unique show themed around the tango that featured traditional and contemporary music. It was high energy and fun to watch!
And that was our day, as we made an easy transition from land to sea.
Please click to read my next story, A Country Home Visit in Croatia.