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Of Elvis and Autos

7/27/2020

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In February 2013, son David and I went on a one-week cross country road trip from Atlanta to Tucson. We traveled through eight states, seeing many sights along the way. ​Click HERE to read a short introduction to our epic adventure.

This story, which is part of a series, is about our two days in Tupelo, Mississippi. 

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Tupelo, Mississippi (February 2-4, 2013) I arrived at Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport in Atlanta midafternoon on Saturday, February 2. David met me curbside at the terminal, and we were soon on the road to Tupelo, about 300 miles dues west of Atlanta. We had four hours of drive time ahead of us.
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David spotted a sign for Talladega Superspeedway soon after we crossed the state line between Georgia and Alabama. He was (and is) a huge NASCAR fan, and while we didn’t have time to stop, David caught a glimpse of the race complex nicknamed “Dega” as we drove by.
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We pulled into Jim ‘N Nick’s near Birmingham, the first of many restaurants featured on Diners Drive-Ins and Dives that we would eat at on our road trip. Here's what Guy Fieri, host of the foodie show, had to say about Jim 'N Nick's:

Though Jim ‘N Nick’s may be best known for its barbecue, the cheese biscuits could be the most-exciting part of the meal. Served with every order, these sweet and slightly salty muffins are studded with tiny bits of cheese that crisp up near the outside of the muffins.

The restaurant was crowded and there were people in line to be seated. Hmm, not good given the drive yet ahead of us. Fortunately, there were two open seats at the bar, which we grabbed. After we perused the menu – pulled pork, beef brisket, chicken, catfish, and more (mouth-watering, huh?!) – we both ordered Mr. Jim’s Combo Plate: a choice of two smoked meats (we chose brisket and ribs) served with a choice of two sides (we chose mashed potatoes and mac and cheese), garnished with pickle slices. Our meals, which included a couple of those cheese biscuits, were delicious! 
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We arrived in Tupelo around 9. There we checked in at a Wingate by Wyndham hotel for two nights. “Why two nights in Tupelo?” you ask? February 3rd was Super Bowl Sunday, and we wanted to watch the game on TV. It was easier to accomplish this objective by staying two nights in Tupelo than rushing to our next city-stop.
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Tupelo Automobile Museum
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Late Sunday morning, after a great night’s sleep and a hearty breakfast, David and I headed to the Tupelo Automobile Museum, which opened in 2002. Housed in a 12,000 square foot building, the museum featured more than 100 antique and classic cars, including a 1976 Lincoln Mark IV that was owned by Elvis Presley. Once part of the private collection of telecom mogul and Tupelo native Frank Spain, these cars spanned 100 years of automotive design and engineering, from an 1886 Benz to a 1994 never-driven Dodge Viper (David’s favorite!). 


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(As an aside, I recently learned that the museum ended a nearly 20-year run when economics forced it to close in 2019. The cars and automobilia were sold at auction; sales totaled more than $10 million. The “star” of the auction was a 1948 Tucker 48. Bidding started at $700,000, and when the gavel fell to signify that the auction had ended, the winning bid was $1,985,000. Just a bit outside my budget! The museum announced that it would use the net proceeds from the auction to support its educational mission.)  
David and I spent a couple of hours wandering through the museum. The cars, an eclectic mix from around the world, were displayed in chronological order – a great way to see the development of automobiles over the decades, from the three-wheel hand-built Benz to the modern assembly-line cars. It was a treat to see these cars, and a great start to our trip!
(There are 16 photos in this slideshow.)
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Super Bowl

Super Bowl XLVII, which pitted the Baltimore Ravens against the San Francisco 49ers, was played in New Orleans, just a few hundred miles south of Tupelo. David and I were comfortably seated at Buffalo Wild Wings, a ubiquitous sports bar/restaurant, well before kick-off.

David was a Broncos fan and had hoped to watch his team in the Super Bowl, but the Broncos lost to the Ravens in the divisional playoffs 35-38 in two overtimes. Me? I was a suffering fan of the Browns, who had another abysmal season with only four wins against 12 losses. While both of us hoped for a competitive game, truth be told, I believe that David silently rooted for the 49ers, given that the Ravens had knocked his team from the playoffs!   

This was the first Super Bowl game where the opposing teams were coached by two brothers – Jim Harbaugh for the 49ers and John Harbaugh for the Ravens. John outcoached Jim in the first half, and the Ravens led 21-6 at halftime. The halftime entertainment? Beyonce and Destiny’s Child. (Meh, IMHO) 
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The third quarter started with a 108-yard kickoff return for a touchdown by the Ravens, giving them a 28-6 lead. This lead seemed insurmountable, right? Well, we had to wait 22 minutes to find the answer to this question, because the game was soon interrupted by a power outage. 

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When play resumed, it was (almost) all 49ers – Jim’s team outscored John’s team 23-6, and with nearly four minutes left in the game, the Ravens lead was down to five points. But in the end, John and the Ravens held on for a 34-31 win over Jim and the 49ers. Whew!!! (Wink, wink)

It was a competitive game, after all, and a fun game to watch. Better than the game, though, were the wings and burgers we ate and the beers we drank over the several hours it took to decide a winner!
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We arrived back at the Wingate late evening, ready for bed after a fun-filled day.
The Birthplace of Elvis
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First and foremost, Tupelo is known as the birthplace of “The King of Rock and Roll,” a.k.a., Elvis Presley. David and I would have been remiss if we hadn’t visited a prominent Elvis site, so early Monday morning we headed to THE most prominent site in Tupelo – a park that honors his legacy. 
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The King was born on January 8, 1935 in this small two-room “shotgun” house that his father, Vernon Presley, built on this site with a $180 loan for materials. (I later learned that a shotgun house is narrow with rooms arranged one behind the other and doors on either end.) The family lived there for three years until it was repossessed when Vernon could not repay this loan. The City of Tupelo bought the home and surrounding property in 1957, and Elvis donated the proceeds from a 1957 concert in Tupelo to build a park, help restore the house to its original condition, and furnish the home with period pieces.  
The Presley’s attended the local First Assembly of God church, where “inside its walls, Elvis Presley discovered God and gospel music.” Pastor Frank Still also taught young Elvis to play the three guitar chords to the song Old Shep, about a child and his dog. The church, originally one block away, was moved to this site and restored in 2008.
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When I was a lad
And old Shep was a pup
Over hills and meadows we'd stray
Just a boy and his dog
We were both full of fun
We grew up together that way

We found the perfect selfie photo-op – David, a young Elvis, and me! The sculpture, titled Elvis at 13, was created by artist Michiel Van der Sommen. Nearby was the Fountain of Life, which was marked by milestones of The King’s life in Tupelo.
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Neither David or I were Elvis fans, but we enjoyed listening to his music, and so it was a treat for us to have this glimpse into his early life.
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After two days in Tupelo, we were off to a great start on our week-long road trip. By midmorning we were on our way to Little Rock, Arkansas by way of Memphis Tennessee. 
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