In September 2022, daughter Jill and I traveled north to Alaska – a 12-day adventure from Seward to Fairbanks. Click HERE to read a short introduction to our epic trip.
This story is the first in a series about the sights we saw and the experiences we had as we traveled through The Last Frontier.
This story is the first in a series about the sights we saw and the experiences we had as we traveled through The Last Frontier.
Seward, Alaska (Saturday, September 3, 2022) All trips begin somewhere, and mine began in Show Low, a small town in the White Mountains of eastern Arizona that Debra and I have called home these past couple of years. On Thursday evening, I flew to Phoenix so that Jill and I could travel to Alaska together on Friday.
The flight from Show Low on an eight-passenger single-engine turboprop plane was a piece of cake. It was 45-minutes from gate to gate, and a smooth flight from start to finish. Our cruising altitude was about 16,000 feet – close enough to the ground to see Roosevelt Lake and other landforms in detail. As we approached Phoenix, I had this lovely view of the setting sun.
The flight from Show Low on an eight-passenger single-engine turboprop plane was a piece of cake. It was 45-minutes from gate to gate, and a smooth flight from start to finish. Our cruising altitude was about 16,000 feet – close enough to the ground to see Roosevelt Lake and other landforms in detail. As we approached Phoenix, I had this lovely view of the setting sun.
Friday morning, I arrived at Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport before six (for an eight a.m. flight) – just as the sun was rising in the east. A beautiful sunset last evening, a glorious sunrise this morning. I was off to a great start!
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Jill and I flew Alaska Airlines – Phoenix to Seattle, Seattle to Anchorage, each leg about three hours. Our flight from Phoenix was delayed 30 minutes – not a problem, though, as we had a two-hour layover in Seattle.
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This was my first time on Alaska Airlines, so I said to Jill, “I wonder who that is on the tail of their planes.” A few minutes later, she responded. “Open the link I emailed to you.” I did, and here was what I read:
The smiling Eskimo face emblazoned on the tail of Alaska Airlines planes is that of the late Chester Seveck, a reindeer herder and phenomenal Eskimo dancer, who for years greeted tourists getting off the plane at Kotzebue, Alaska.
Never underestimate the power of the internet…or a daughter with a smartphone in hand!
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We landed in Anchorage midafternoon, retrieved our luggage, picked up our rental car (a Corolla Cross), and headed south on the Seward Highway to the seaside community of Seward. The scenery along both sides of the road was beautiful!
As an aside, this highway was dotted with “scenic view ahead” signs – so many, in fact, that we would have easily doubled our two-hour+ drive time to Seward had we stopped for each Kodak moment. We did not, of course, do this…but we did make two stops along the way. |
A beluga rising
from the ocean’s muddy depths
reshapes its head to make a sound
or take a breath.
from the ocean’s muddy depths
reshapes its head to make a sound
or take a breath.
~ From What Whales and Infants Know by Kim Cornwall
Our first stop was at Beluga Point, a rocky outpost on the Turnagain Arm, a waterway that empties into the Gulf of Alaska. Alaska Natives once used this promontory to hunt the beluga whales that prowled this inlet for salmon from mid-July through August.
Jill and I went for a stroll, and we were glad we did. The 180-degree view of Turnagain Arm was breathtaking!
Jill and I went for a stroll, and we were glad we did. The 180-degree view of Turnagain Arm was breathtaking!
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The Chugach Mountains, which have an average elevation of about 4,000 feet, created a dramatic “skyline” on our left as we continued south on the Seward Highway.
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“Jill,” I exclaimed, “did that sign we raced by say ‘Moose Pass’?
“Must have missed it, so I don’t know,” she replied.
Soon, though, there was another sign...and this time the sign touted ‘Moose Nuts’. We looked at one another and said in unison, “We have to stop!” And so, we did.
“Must have missed it, so I don’t know,” she replied.
Soon, though, there was another sign...and this time the sign touted ‘Moose Nuts’. We looked at one another and said in unison, “We have to stop!” And so, we did.
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Moose Pass was one of those communities that if you blinked while driving through, you missed it. With fewer than 300 residents, there was a restaurant, a handful of B&Bs, a few shops, and not much more alongside the road. Still, it was a quaint community.
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We parked in front of the Moose Drop-In Trading Post and stepped inside for a look-see. The first thing we saw – or maybe it was the first thing we heard – was a large talking moose jabbering about something or other. (Moose nuts?!) That’s right – it was a talking moose, just like Marty Moose in National Lampoon’s Vacation. ("Sorry, folks! We're closed for two weeks to clean and repair America's favorite family fun park. Sorry, uh-huh, uh-huh, uh-huh!")
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The gift shop displayed plenty of Alaskan souvenirs and crafts, and there was a glass counter filled with fudge and a roaster, much like a commercial popcorn machine, filled with conical-shaped bags of roasted nuts. “Ohhhh,” I said as I winked at Jill. “THESE are moose nuts!” Well, we had a good laugh, but left empty-handed, as roasted nuts had little appeal and there were plenty of days yet ahead for us to find the perfect souvenirs.
We skirted the eastern edge of Kenai Lake (Kenai, by the way, is pronounced ‘Key nigh’) and passed through Primrose and Bear Creek before we reached Seward.
We skirted the eastern edge of Kenai Lake (Kenai, by the way, is pronounced ‘Key nigh’) and passed through Primrose and Bear Creek before we reached Seward.
Welcome to a breathtaking land shaped by glaciers,
nestled between mountains and the ocean. This is the
ancestoral homeland of the Alutiiq people, who have
called the rocky coasts and glacial bays home since
time immemorial. Learn why we say, “Alaska Starts Here.”
nestled between mountains and the ocean. This is the
ancestoral homeland of the Alutiiq people, who have
called the rocky coasts and glacial bays home since
time immemorial. Learn why we say, “Alaska Starts Here.”
~ Seward Chamber of Commerce
One reason “Alaska Starts Here” was that Seward was home to milepost zero on the Seward Highway – literally, the starting point on the road north through Alaska. Another reason: Seward was the gateway city to Kenai Fjords National Park. (I will take you on a tour of the park a little later in this story.)
Just the Facts
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Seward, established in 1903, is a port city on the southern coast of Alaska, sandwiched between the Kenai mountains and the waters of Kenai Fjords National Park. The city, with fewer than 3,000 residents, was named for Secretary of State William Seward, who spearheaded the Alaska Purchase (from the Russian Empire) in 1867.
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Jill and I had salads for lunch in the Seattle airport, so dinner was our first order of business. Being the foodie she is, Jill had scouted the city’s restaurants as we drove towards Seward.
“We’re eating at Ray’s Waterfront,” she announced. “It has great reviews.”
“What’s the fare?” I asked (as though I had a say in the matter).
“When in Rome…” Jill began. “We are in Alaska, so seafood, of course.”
Silly me, I thought...or did I say this out loud?!
“We’re eating at Ray’s Waterfront,” she announced. “It has great reviews.”
“What’s the fare?” I asked (as though I had a say in the matter).
“When in Rome…” Jill began. “We are in Alaska, so seafood, of course.”
Silly me, I thought...or did I say this out loud?!
When we arrived, the hostess handed us a pager and said, “About 30 minutes.” We used our time to explore the marina behind the restaurant, which was located at the northern edge of Resurrection Bay.
Once again, the views were stunning. (Geez – I hope I don’t run out of superlatives before I finish telling my stories!) There were boats of all sizes tied up in the slips. The water was like a sheet of glass, its surface painted with reflections of boats, gangways, and clouds. Best of all were the mountains across the bay, some of which sported snow-capped peaks under an ominous gray sky.
The weather seemed to be ever changing – mostly dry, but a drizzle from time to time. Check out the rainbow in this photo – not the traditional arc, but more a pit of fiery colors nestled in amongst the peaks. Crazy, huh?!
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The hostess was true to her word – about 30 minutes after we checked in, the pager beeped to tell us that our table was ready.
Menus in hand, I said to Jill, “Well, what’s it gonna be?” |
“I’m going with the brandy glazed wild Alaskan salmon with mashed potatoes and roasted vegetables,” she read from the menu. “And you?”
“Sounds good,” I admitted, “but the cioppino is more to my taste. Scallops, mussels, clams, prawns, and cod served over linguine.” My mouth watered just thinking about this dish!
We placed our orders, waited an appropriate amount of time (the restaurant still rocked with boisterous diners at eight), and then…our entrees arrived.
“Well, Jill,” I asked after we each had a bite or two of our meals, “what do you think?”
“My salmon is good, but not great,” she confessed, with a bit of a pout on her face. “And your cioppino?”
“Sounds good,” I admitted, “but the cioppino is more to my taste. Scallops, mussels, clams, prawns, and cod served over linguine.” My mouth watered just thinking about this dish!
We placed our orders, waited an appropriate amount of time (the restaurant still rocked with boisterous diners at eight), and then…our entrees arrived.
“Well, Jill,” I asked after we each had a bite or two of our meals, “what do you think?”
“My salmon is good, but not great,” she confessed, with a bit of a pout on her face. “And your cioppino?”
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“I love it!” I beamed. “It’s been years since I’ve had cioppino, but if memory serves me correctly, this may be the best.”
I savored every bite…and sopped up the last of the tomato sauce with a hunk of bread. |
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It was past nine when we finished... time to check in to Harbor 360 Hotel, our home away from home for one night. (True confession: I took this pic Saturday morning, as it was too dark to get a good shot when we checked in Friday night.)
Harbor 360 was the number one rated hotel on Tripadvisor. The service was great, the hotel was clean and quiet, and they served a free breakfast. This was everything we could ask for on our first night in Alaska. And Harbor 360 served our purpose well – a comfortable night’s sleep after a long day of travel.
I was raring to go this morning, so I showered, dressed, and left Jill in the room to do the same. (We shared a room until we got to Fairbanks, where we each had our own.) It was a bit too early for breakfast, so I strolled along a stretch of the harbor to the end of the dock and then backtracked on 4th Avenue, which was lined with shops. In one shop I found the first gifts for my wife – a bar of scented soap, a heart-shaped dish, and a small stuffed moose.
I was raring to go this morning, so I showered, dressed, and left Jill in the room to do the same. (We shared a room until we got to Fairbanks, where we each had our own.) It was a bit too early for breakfast, so I strolled along a stretch of the harbor to the end of the dock and then backtracked on 4th Avenue, which was lined with shops. In one shop I found the first gifts for my wife – a bar of scented soap, a heart-shaped dish, and a small stuffed moose.
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Soon my phone pinged. “Dad,” Jill texted, “I’ll meet you for breakfast.” I had a cheese omelet, several strips of bacon, a waffle, a glass of cranberry juice, and a cup of coffee. This was more breakfast than I usually had at home, but just the right number of calories to carry me to an early afternoon lunch (sandwich, chips, and drink).
On most days, Jill and I planned one major excursion, and this was the case in Seward – a six-hour cruise in Kenai Fjords National Park, where we would “explore the world of whales, wildlife, and glaciers.” (Spoiler alert: We hit the trifecta!)
With apologies to Sherwood Schwartz and George Wyle, who created the theme song for the ‘60s sitcom Gilligan’s Island:
On most days, Jill and I planned one major excursion, and this was the case in Seward – a six-hour cruise in Kenai Fjords National Park, where we would “explore the world of whales, wildlife, and glaciers.” (Spoiler alert: We hit the trifecta!)
With apologies to Sherwood Schwartz and George Wyle, who created the theme song for the ‘60s sitcom Gilligan’s Island:
Just sit right back and you’ll hear a tale,
A tale of a memorable trip
That started from this Alaskan port
Aboard this tiny ship.
A tale of a memorable trip
That started from this Alaskan port
Aboard this tiny ship.
Our tiny ship was the Spirit of Matushka, a 150-passenger hydrofoil-assisted catamaran operated by Major Marine Tours. Later, I read that Matushka is Russian for mother, and that the boat’s name celebrated a 45-year-old orca matriarch that frequented the fjords.
Cruising speed was 20 to 30 knots – about 23 to 35 miles per hour. Most of the seating was indoors – we had a window table on the second deck – which was a good thing, because it rained off and on throughout the cruise. Jill and I layered – the temperature on land was in the low 60s but was sure to be colder once we reached open water.
Cruising speed was 20 to 30 knots – about 23 to 35 miles per hour. Most of the seating was indoors – we had a window table on the second deck – which was a good thing, because it rained off and on throughout the cruise. Jill and I layered – the temperature on land was in the low 60s but was sure to be colder once we reached open water.
About Kenai Fjords National Park
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The fjords were formed by glaciers during the Last Glacial Period, which began about 100,000 years ago. The national park, on the other hand, was contemporary – it was established in 1980, 21 years after Alaska was admitted as the 49th state, by President Jimmy Carter. Today, more than 60% of the 600,000-acre park is covered in snow and ice.
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With everyone on board who was going to board, we pushed back from the pier about 11:30 and slowly made our way south on Resurrection Bay. We passed three islands on the port side – Fox, Hive, and Rugged – as we transitioned to the Gulf of Alaska.
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I won’t bore you with too much history (at least, I hope not!) but thought you might be interested to know that Fox Island was home to fox farming into the 1960s – thus its name. Our cruise guide told us that there were no more foxes on Fox Island.
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Just past Rugged Island, the guide called our attention to a pod of sea otters that floated about 100 yards off starboard. Jill and I had to be sharp-eyed to see the smallest of all marine mammals, which, despite their size, have the densest fur of any mammal.
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The weather – it had been raining – began to clear (Was that blue sky we saw? Yes, it was!). It was none too soon, as there was an orca – a killer whale – 100 yards off the bow. And then, further into the gulf, was another. Neither Jill nor I had seen an orca in the wild; before this cruise ended, though, we saw a dozen or more, some swimming alone and others in hunting pods. The orca, easily identified by its unique saddle patch and dorsal fin, was one of Jill’s three must-sees on our trip. (Check that box!)
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About the same time, we saw the fluke of a humpback whale – the two lobes that made up the tail of the whale. It happened too fast, though, to take a picture.
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As we approached No Name Island (yep - that's the name!), located near the mouth of Aialik Bay, our eagle-eyed guide spotted a small colony of Steller sea lions – the largest member of the “eared seals” family - sunning themselves on a rocky shelf above the water line. Our captain navigated the catamaran as close as he dared, which afforded me (and other cruise passengers) better pics of these highly sociable creatures.
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The six-hour tour (there were also four-and eight-hour tours) included a cruise into Aialik Bay to view Aialik Glacier, one of several glaciers that flowed outward from the Harding Icefield.
“Icefields,” our guide began, “are large accumulations of snow that compress and freeze. The Harding Icefield, which covers 700 square miles, is the largest on the Kenai Peninsula.” And then he added, “The maximum depth of the Harding Icefield is about 4,000 feet, which makes it the largest icefield in the United States!”
That’s a lot of ice cubes, I thought.
“Icefields,” our guide began, “are large accumulations of snow that compress and freeze. The Harding Icefield, which covers 700 square miles, is the largest on the Kenai Peninsula.” And then he added, “The maximum depth of the Harding Icefield is about 4,000 feet, which makes it the largest icefield in the United States!”
That’s a lot of ice cubes, I thought.
As we neared Aialik Glacier, our guide continued his narration. “A glacier is the flow of ice from the edge of an icefield. That flow drains into a waterway – in this case, Aialik Bay. Aialik Glacier flows southeast for about eight miles. Its glacial front is an ice cliff about 200 feet high.”
This wasn’t my first encounter with a glacier. Back in 2010, when Debra and I cruised the Alaskan Panhandle, we boarded a helicopter in Juneau and flew to Mendenhall Glacier. This was no fly over, mind you – WE LANDED ON THE GLACIER AND WALKED AROUND! It was mind-boggling.
So, I wasn’t surprised by the blue color of the ice – more intense in some areas than in others. Still, I appreciated the information our guide provided…
“You may wonder why the ice is blue. The short answer,” he explained, “is that the dense ice of a glacier absorbs every color of the spectrum except blue, and so this is the color we see.”
So, I wasn’t surprised by the blue color of the ice – more intense in some areas than in others. Still, I appreciated the information our guide provided…
“You may wonder why the ice is blue. The short answer,” he explained, “is that the dense ice of a glacier absorbs every color of the spectrum except blue, and so this is the color we see.”
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The closer we got, the more dazzling the display. We also saw pieces of ice floating on the water, a result of a process called “glacial calving” - breaking of ice chunks from the edge of a glacier. Our guide continued, “The sound made when a glacier calves can be deafening.” We did not see any calving; however, we did hear loud noises from time to time, which were new cracks in the glacier above and beyond the bay.
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One of the boat attendants fished out a piece of ice, which was handed from passenger to passenger. This ice was mighty cold!
It was time to head back to the pier. Our route was south on Aialik Bay, around the Chiswell Islands (located about 35 miles south of Seward, this was where we sighted the last orca on our cruise), into the Gulf of Alaska, and north on Resurrection Bay – a bit different from the route we took coming out. We spotted black-legged kittiwakes (small gulls) and horned puffins along the way. |
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Then, as we neared the pier, we had a final treat – there was a bald eagle perched atop a metal structure. This was a fitting end to an exhilarating cruise through the Kenai Fjords – a great start to our 12-day adventure.
I checked my watch as we disembarked. Six o’clock. We had stowed our luggage in the car before the cruise, so we were quickly on our way to our next destination – Alyeska Resort in Girdwood, about 90 miles north on the Seward Highway. |
I look forward to sharing more experiences and memories with you in my next story.