In October 2016, Debra and I took a 14-day cruise to Canada and New England. We sailed from Quebec City to Ft. Lauderdale on the Caribbean Princess, with port stops in two provinces and five states. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this wonderful cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Saguenay, Quebec, the first port of call on our cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Saguenay, Quebec, the first port of call on our cruise.
Saguenay, Quebec (October 24, 2016) Yesterday was our last day of sightseeing in Quebec City. I should say “at least on this trip,” as Debra and I had such a great time that we plan to come back one day. We also said goodbye to our friends Louiselle and John from Montreal, who we met many years ago on a Caribbean cruise. We hadn't seen them in a handful of years, and were happy to spend a few days with them.
This was our first time on the Caribbean Princess, one of the largest ships in the Princess fleet (at the time we sailed) – 19 decks, more than three football fields long, 113 thousand tons, and 1,556 cabins that accommodated more than 3,100 guests. In fact, the ship had a larger "population" than the village we visited today! Here’s a photo of the ship that I took from the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac, a five-star luxury hotel in Quebec City. No, Debra and I didn’t stay there; rather, we toured this magnificent hotel with Louiselle and John.
This was our first time on the Caribbean Princess, one of the largest ships in the Princess fleet (at the time we sailed) – 19 decks, more than three football fields long, 113 thousand tons, and 1,556 cabins that accommodated more than 3,100 guests. In fact, the ship had a larger "population" than the village we visited today! Here’s a photo of the ship that I took from the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac, a five-star luxury hotel in Quebec City. No, Debra and I didn’t stay there; rather, we toured this magnificent hotel with Louiselle and John.
We had a beautiful view of Quebec City from the waterfront when we set sail for Saguenay last evening. The prominent building in this photo was the Fairmont.
Saguenay (pop. 150,000) is located about 120 miles due north of Quebec City as the crow flies. Our route, though, was anything but a straight line. We sailed northwest on the St. Lawrence River, made a tight right turn to port at the Saguenay River, and navigated through a fjord until we reached Saguenay - roughly 200 miles of waterway. That scenery along the rivers would, I'm sure, have been spectacular to see!
After breakfast, Debra headed to our cabin and I went on deck to check the weather. Baby, it was cold outside! According to my weather app, the temperature was 30º Fahrenheit, and as I looked about, snowflakes fell all around. Brrrr!!! Good thing Debra brought the parka she bought in Ketchikan on our Alaska cruise. Me? A lined fall jacket, which in my book was close enough. With knit hats and scarves, we were ready for whatever Mother Nature threw our way.
I booked a small group tour with Saguenay Guided Tours – a city drive, stops in a couple of small towns, and an up-close-and-personal look at the fjord. There were three passengers from the ship who joined us, and a few people from points unknown. When we disembarked, we learned that the start time was pushed back because of icy conditions on the mountain roads. No worries, as this gave Debra and me the opportunity to get to know the Princess passengers – Trish and Peter from England and Mary from Florida. Mary was a 14-day friend, if you catch my drift – but that’s ok, as this was typical of most people we’ve met on cruises over the years. Trish and Peter? We remained friends, and in 2018 our son David and I spent the day with them when we were in London on a five-day holiday. I love when that happens!
After breakfast, Debra headed to our cabin and I went on deck to check the weather. Baby, it was cold outside! According to my weather app, the temperature was 30º Fahrenheit, and as I looked about, snowflakes fell all around. Brrrr!!! Good thing Debra brought the parka she bought in Ketchikan on our Alaska cruise. Me? A lined fall jacket, which in my book was close enough. With knit hats and scarves, we were ready for whatever Mother Nature threw our way.
I booked a small group tour with Saguenay Guided Tours – a city drive, stops in a couple of small towns, and an up-close-and-personal look at the fjord. There were three passengers from the ship who joined us, and a few people from points unknown. When we disembarked, we learned that the start time was pushed back because of icy conditions on the mountain roads. No worries, as this gave Debra and me the opportunity to get to know the Princess passengers – Trish and Peter from England and Mary from Florida. Mary was a 14-day friend, if you catch my drift – but that’s ok, as this was typical of most people we’ve met on cruises over the years. Trish and Peter? We remained friends, and in 2018 our son David and I spent the day with them when we were in London on a five-day holiday. I love when that happens!
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After a 30-minute wait, we got the high sign that the bus was ready to roll. We had an hour drive to our first destination, Saguenay Fjords National Park, but first we took a “scenic drive” through Saguenay. One of the sights was the Ha! Ha! Pyramid, which commemorated the Saguenay flood of 1996. Ha! Ha!, by the way, wasn’t making light of the flood or 10 victims – instead, it was the name of the river that flooded.
Leaving Saguenay, we drove along a tree-lined road, with the trees trimmed in freshly fallen (and falling) snow. Oh, so pretty to look at, but we were glad to be inside a warm bus!
Leaving Saguenay, we drove along a tree-lined road, with the trees trimmed in freshly fallen (and falling) snow. Oh, so pretty to look at, but we were glad to be inside a warm bus!
Geologic Beauty
The Saguenay Fjord wasn’t the first fjord that Debra and I visited. On our cruise to Alaska in 2010, we flew over the Misty Fjord near Ketchikan in a seaplane and landed on the water at the base of a high, jagged cliff. That was monumental! I read up on fjords before our trip, and learned that there were fjords in many countries, including Chile, New Zealand, Greenland, and Norway. New Zealand and Norway were on my bucket list, so one day I will see those fjords.
“So, what is a fjord?” you might ask. The dictionary definition is “a long, narrow, deep, inlet of sea between high cliffs, typically formed by submergence of a glaciated valley.” Ok then…it was time to take a look at the Saguenay Fjord.
As we approached the entrance to the park, our tour guide shared a few facts:
We immediately felt the cold air when we left the warmth of the bus. In fact, it felt a few degrees colder than when we got off the ship, but with no cell service, I couldn’t verify this with my weather app. Were we having second thoughts about being in this cold clime? Heck no. We pulled our hats lower over our ears and tucked our scarves into our jackets, and with that we were ready to go!
We walked down a path through a densely treed forest of firs, and soon arrived at a wooden observation deck. There we had a 180-degree view of the fjord, albeit somewhat fog-shrouded. But even through the fog, the views were breathtaking – an expansive river, a dense forest dotted with fall foliage, and a backdrop of cliffs and mountains partially obscured by the fog, which created a bit of mystery in the scene before us.
The Saguenay Fjord wasn’t the first fjord that Debra and I visited. On our cruise to Alaska in 2010, we flew over the Misty Fjord near Ketchikan in a seaplane and landed on the water at the base of a high, jagged cliff. That was monumental! I read up on fjords before our trip, and learned that there were fjords in many countries, including Chile, New Zealand, Greenland, and Norway. New Zealand and Norway were on my bucket list, so one day I will see those fjords.
“So, what is a fjord?” you might ask. The dictionary definition is “a long, narrow, deep, inlet of sea between high cliffs, typically formed by submergence of a glaciated valley.” Ok then…it was time to take a look at the Saguenay Fjord.
As we approached the entrance to the park, our tour guide shared a few facts:
- The formation of this fjord was triggered by a geologic event 200 million years ago.
- It's about 65 miles long and one to three miles wide.
- The height of the cliffs averaged 300 feet, and the tallest cliff was 1,200 feet.
- The Saguenay Fjord was the only inhabited fjord in North America.
We immediately felt the cold air when we left the warmth of the bus. In fact, it felt a few degrees colder than when we got off the ship, but with no cell service, I couldn’t verify this with my weather app. Were we having second thoughts about being in this cold clime? Heck no. We pulled our hats lower over our ears and tucked our scarves into our jackets, and with that we were ready to go!
We walked down a path through a densely treed forest of firs, and soon arrived at a wooden observation deck. There we had a 180-degree view of the fjord, albeit somewhat fog-shrouded. But even through the fog, the views were breathtaking – an expansive river, a dense forest dotted with fall foliage, and a backdrop of cliffs and mountains partially obscured by the fog, which created a bit of mystery in the scene before us.
Here’s a takeaway, well, at least a takeaway for me: Not all fjords were created equal. Yes, there was a common definition of a fjord, but the construct of each – each that I’ve seen, that is – was different. The Saguenay Fjord was “softer” in appearance than the Misty Fjord – more trees, less observable jagged cliffs. But no matter, as both fjords were spectacular!
Debra and I mugged for a “Kodak moment” on our way back to the bus – the two of us among thousands of pine trees with the Saguenay Fjord in the background. What a great memory of our time here.
Debra and I mugged for a “Kodak moment” on our way back to the bus – the two of us among thousands of pine trees with the Saguenay Fjord in the background. What a great memory of our time here.
A Year-Round Christmas Display
We were grateful to find that our driver had left the engine running and heat on while we were out, as the warm air felt great when we boarded the bus! Less than 10 minutes after we left the park, we arrived in the hamlet of Riviere-Eternite (“Eternity River”), where we stopped on the side of the road near a sign that said “EXPOSITIONS de CRECHES.” We exited the bus and walked along a path, about the length of a football field, that meandered through a year-round display of nativity scenes.
There was freshly fallen snow here, which created the right mood for the creches. But it was even better for me, because I made snowballs and used a nearby tree for target practice. Oh, the fond memories this triggered of growing up in the snowbelt of northeastern Ohio, where building snow forts and having snowball fights with my friends were a large part of our weekend routine in the winter months!
We were grateful to find that our driver had left the engine running and heat on while we were out, as the warm air felt great when we boarded the bus! Less than 10 minutes after we left the park, we arrived in the hamlet of Riviere-Eternite (“Eternity River”), where we stopped on the side of the road near a sign that said “EXPOSITIONS de CRECHES.” We exited the bus and walked along a path, about the length of a football field, that meandered through a year-round display of nativity scenes.
There was freshly fallen snow here, which created the right mood for the creches. But it was even better for me, because I made snowballs and used a nearby tree for target practice. Oh, the fond memories this triggered of growing up in the snowbelt of northeastern Ohio, where building snow forts and having snowball fights with my friends were a large part of our weekend routine in the winter months!
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There were more than 15 nativity scenes on display, created by local artisans in wood, metal, and plastic. Some were traditional, while others might be called “interpretive.” This was a great roadside attraction and a treat to see.
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A Quaint Village
With everyone back on the bus, we drove towards our final stop, the Village of L’Anse-Saint-Jean (“The Cove of Saint John”), located along the shore of the Saguenay River south of the National Park. Just before we arrived, though, we stopped near an interesting covered bridge that was built in 1929. The French word for covered is "couvert,” but the sign on this bridge said “Couvart,” a slight variation. Hmmm? Well, we found the reason why when we stepped inside the bridge: There were 20 or so diamond-shaped paintings displayed on the siding of the enclosure, each created by a local artist. Was it a covered bridge or an art gallery? The answer was “YES!”
With everyone back on the bus, we drove towards our final stop, the Village of L’Anse-Saint-Jean (“The Cove of Saint John”), located along the shore of the Saguenay River south of the National Park. Just before we arrived, though, we stopped near an interesting covered bridge that was built in 1929. The French word for covered is "couvert,” but the sign on this bridge said “Couvart,” a slight variation. Hmmm? Well, we found the reason why when we stepped inside the bridge: There were 20 or so diamond-shaped paintings displayed on the siding of the enclosure, each created by a local artist. Was it a covered bridge or an art gallery? The answer was “YES!”
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As we turned back from the bridge, we had a great view of a cluster of homes on the outskirts of the village that were typical of the houses we saw in this area. There was one house that stood out from the rest. It was painted red with white posts and trim, and on the front porch was a swing. I’ve always wanted to own a house with a porch large enough for a swing, but never have. Boy, it sure looked inviting to me!
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We had an hour of free time in L’Anse-Saint-Jean. Debra and I quickly surveyed the area as we stepped off the bus. There were several shops and a café to our right and a pier to our left. While the other tour passengers headed to the shops and café, Debra and I walked to the pier. There we saw the cove that the village was named for.
When we reached the end of the pier, we turned around to a scene reminiscent of a 1,000-piece jigsaw puzzle. Before us was a picturesque village with colorful houses and tall white masts of dry-docked boats set against a hill of green pines and trees dressed in their fall foliage. Debra and I loved to work jigsaw puzzles and would have treasured the opportunity to take this one home with us!
We nosed around the shops a bit and then had a hot chocolate in the café. Did you notice anything different about Debra from the earlier photo of her? She’s wearing a new knit hat and scarf. She purchased these items at a shop in the village to keep her warm(er) in the cold weather.
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We were back on board the Caribbean Princess late afternoon. Debra and I headed to Horizon Court, where we enjoyed cookies and hot chocolate and reminisced about our day. We really enjoyed the sights we saw and the winter-wonderland we experienced, and we were of like mind: We were off to a great start on our 14-day cruise!
Tomorrow would be a “sea day” on our way to Sydney, Nova Scotia, our next port of call.
Tomorrow would be a “sea day” on our way to Sydney, Nova Scotia, our next port of call.