In October 2016, Debra and I took a 14-day cruise to Canada and New England. We sailed from Quebec City to Ft. Lauderdale on the Caribbean Princess, with port stops in two provinces and five states. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this wonderful cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Newport, Rhode Island, the eighth port of call.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Newport, Rhode Island, the eighth port of call.
Newport, Rhode Island (October 31, 2016) This was All Hallows’ Day, otherwise known as Halloween. In many countries around the globe, children (and many adults!) will celebrate what was originally an ancient Celtic festival by playing tricks and seeking treats. No tricks today for Debra and me, but oh what a treat we had as we sailed into Newport Harbor - a beautiful sunrise and stunning scenery!
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It was chilly – about 40 degrees – with a slight breeze when we docked. A couple of hours later, though, when we disembarked, the temperature had climbed into the mid-50s and the sky was a deep blue with a few puffy-white clouds. As I like say, the weather was picture-perfect for our excursion!
In most ports on this cruise, Debra and I joined a handful of fellow-passengers on private, small-group tours...and this was what we did today. Here’s our party of eight plus Ed, who was our tour guide today. Ed had a great itinerary for us, one that would give us a “taste of Newport” – a little bit of this and a little bit of that. Debra and I were excited, as this was our first visit to this historic city.
Newport (pop. 24,000), located on Aquidneck Island in Narragansett Bay, was founded in 1639 by a group of settlers led by Nicholas Easton, a colonial governor of Rhode Island. This settlement grew to be the largest of the four original settlements that became the Colony of Rhode Island. Many of the country’s wealthiest families summered in their Newport “cottages” in the late 1800s, and the City was the site of Eisenhower’s and Kennedy’s “summer White House” when they were Presidents. Newport also has a deep maritime history that includes a Naval Station, Naval War College, and, of course, competitive yacht racing.
As home to the America’s Cup for a half-century, Newport has
long been recognized as the sailing capital of the world.
~ Governor Donald Carcieri,
Rhode Island’s “First Sailor” (2004)
long been recognized as the sailing capital of the world.
~ Governor Donald Carcieri,
Rhode Island’s “First Sailor” (2004)
The America’s Cup, “yachting’s most coveted prize,” was first awarded in 1851, which makes it the oldest international sporting trophy. And while it is true that Newport last hosted an America’s Cup competition in 1983 – the year the “Cup” was lost to the winged keel Australia II – this waterfront city had a 53-year legacy (1930 – 1983) as host to the America’s Cup. So, while Annapolis, Auckland, and other cities may also claim to be the “sailing capital of the world,” there was nothing wrong with a bit of civic boasting. As then-Mayor Al Hopkins declared, “If anybody can deny us this title, let them come forward or forever hold their peace.”
The Point
Our tour started with a drive through one of the oldest neighborhoods in Newport. “The Point,” formally known as Easton’s Point in honor of Nicholas Easton, has one of the highest concentrations of Colonial-era houses in the United States. The Newport Restoration Foundation, a nonprofit organization founded by philanthropist Doris Duke, owns, preserves, and maintains over eighty 18th and 19th century buildings on Aquidneck Island. Most are rented as private residences, “making them an enduring and defining feature of the historic architectural fabric of Newport and a source of pride from the community,” according to the Foundation.
Our tour started with a drive through one of the oldest neighborhoods in Newport. “The Point,” formally known as Easton’s Point in honor of Nicholas Easton, has one of the highest concentrations of Colonial-era houses in the United States. The Newport Restoration Foundation, a nonprofit organization founded by philanthropist Doris Duke, owns, preserves, and maintains over eighty 18th and 19th century buildings on Aquidneck Island. Most are rented as private residences, “making them an enduring and defining feature of the historic architectural fabric of Newport and a source of pride from the community,” according to the Foundation.
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Laid out in a grid, this compact neighborhood was almost entirely residential, from modestly sized houses for tradesmen and artisans to mansions for wealthy merchants. The three north-south streets were numbered (First, Second, and Third), while the dozen or so east-west streets were named for trees (Pine, Cherry, Willow, etc.). Many of the multi-story homes – an indication of prosperity, Ed told us – were well-preserved. As we drove up one street and down another, I visualized a streetscape of cobblestone roads, gardened yards, horse-drawn carriages, and women in long-length gowns and men in linen shirts and breeches. It was a beautiful sight!
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Touro Park
As we drove to our next destination, Touro Park, Ed pointed out Touro Synagogue. Built in 1763, it is the only surviving synagogue from the Colonial era and the oldest synagogue in the United States. As the car slowed, I took this photo of the front façade, which I later learned faced east towards Jerusalem. |
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Touro Synagogue. Touro Park. Hmmmm…must be a link, right? Well, right you are! The Synagogue was built under the leadership of Isaac Touro, the Cantor for a small congregation of 15 Jewish families from Spain and Portugal who settled in Newport around 1658. Isaac’s son, Judah, was a successful businessman, and in 1854 he funded (through his will) the City’s purchase of a couple of acres of relatively flat land for a park. The City of Newport honored his philanthropy by naming the park after him.
No drive-by photo-op here. Instead, it was a full-fledged stop, with 30 minutes to see the sights in and around Touro Park.
Minutes from downtown Newport, this urban park was picturesque: A large grassy expanse dotted with pin oaks, maples, and dogwoods; Victorian-style benches and lampposts along the walkways; two commanding bronze statues – Unitarian theologian William Ellery Channing and Commodore Matthew Perry, a native Newporter; and a round stone tower.
Minutes from downtown Newport, this urban park was picturesque: A large grassy expanse dotted with pin oaks, maples, and dogwoods; Victorian-style benches and lampposts along the walkways; two commanding bronze statues – Unitarian theologian William Ellery Channing and Commodore Matthew Perry, a native Newporter; and a round stone tower.
Ed told us that the stone tower – a.k.a. the Newport Tower and the Old Stone Mill – was thought to be the remains of a 17th century windmill. Why? Because Benedict Arnold (yes…THE Benedict Arnold, whose name lives in infamy!), the first colonial governor of Rhode Island, lived in a mansion on land adjacent to where the tower stands, and in his will, Arnold mentioned “my stone built Wind Mill.” Not much to go on, I know, but this remained the prevailing theory.
William Ellery Channing, born in Newport in 1780, was known as the “apostle of Unitarianism.” In 1835, he led a group of 10 men who formed the first Unitarian Society in Newport. Channing’s statue (left hand photo below) faces the front of Channing Memorial Church (middle photo below), located on Pelham Street across from the Park. The Church, built in the English Gothic style, was dedicated in 1880 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Channing’s birth. The tall spire-steeple, which houses ten bells, was rebuilt and dedicated in 2009.
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Matthew Perry, who was born in 1794, was a native son of Newport who had a distinguished career in the United States Navy. In 1853-54, he led an expedition to Japan that resulted in trade and diplomatic relations between Japan and the West. The statue of Perry (right photo above), designed by John Quincy Adams Ward, depicts the Commodore in his Naval uniform. He looked resplendent!
It was a beautiful day for a walk in the park – a wonderful opportunity for Debra and me to see and learn more about Newport’s history (and to stretch our legs!).
It was a beautiful day for a walk in the park – a wonderful opportunity for Debra and me to see and learn more about Newport’s history (and to stretch our legs!).
Cliff Walk
The southwestern region of Aquidneck Island is shaped (IMHO) like a foot, with its toes pointing to the west and its heel resting to the east. It was a short drive from Touro Park, located at the ankle (to continue my metaphor!), to the heel, where we parked in a lot on Narragansett Avenue to access the Cliff Walk via Forty Steps.
Forty Steps (yes, there are forty steps) was built in the early 1800s by David Priestly Hall to connect his house to the beach. The steps were rebuilt in the 1990s. The area at the top “was a favorite gathering spot for the Irish who lived and worked in Newport, including the staff of the nearby mansions. Informal dances were held there, accompanied by musicians.”
We walked down the steps to an observation platform, where we had this panoramic view of the rocky shoreline of Easton Bay. It was lovely!
The southwestern region of Aquidneck Island is shaped (IMHO) like a foot, with its toes pointing to the west and its heel resting to the east. It was a short drive from Touro Park, located at the ankle (to continue my metaphor!), to the heel, where we parked in a lot on Narragansett Avenue to access the Cliff Walk via Forty Steps.
Forty Steps (yes, there are forty steps) was built in the early 1800s by David Priestly Hall to connect his house to the beach. The steps were rebuilt in the 1990s. The area at the top “was a favorite gathering spot for the Irish who lived and worked in Newport, including the staff of the nearby mansions. Informal dances were held there, accompanied by musicians.”
We walked down the steps to an observation platform, where we had this panoramic view of the rocky shoreline of Easton Bay. It was lovely!
Then we stepped out onto the Cliff Walk, a 3.5-mile National Recreation Trail along the eastern shore of Newport, “that combines the natural beauty of the Newport shoreline with the architectural history of Newport’s gilded age.” Begun in the 1880s, the Cliff Walk offered breathtaking (and sometimes precarious) views of the ocean to one side and wonderous views of the backyards of mansions to the other side. Although we only had time to walk a short distance, the scenery we saw was spectacular!
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The Breakers
The “Gilded Age” ran from the end of the Civil War (1865) to the onset of the First World War (1914). This was an era in which American society was dominated by families of great wealth who made their money in banking, oil, railroads, manufacturing, and other major industries. They built summer homes on the Atlantic coast in Newport, which they affectionately called “cottages.” In truth, these were palatial mansions. Here is what Robert DiGiacomo wrote in an article published in The Washington Post (2014):
“Newport, R.I., generally conjures images of the Vanderbilts and the Astors and the 1 percent of the Gilded Age throwing lavish parties in their summer cottages. And rightly so. In that era, this small coastal city served as an over-the-top summer playground for some of the nation’s wealthiest citizens. Each season, a proper Newport hostess — to maintain her social standing — would have to hold six dinner parties with 60 guests each, and two balls with an invitation list of 600 each.”
The “Gilded Age” ran from the end of the Civil War (1865) to the onset of the First World War (1914). This was an era in which American society was dominated by families of great wealth who made their money in banking, oil, railroads, manufacturing, and other major industries. They built summer homes on the Atlantic coast in Newport, which they affectionately called “cottages.” In truth, these were palatial mansions. Here is what Robert DiGiacomo wrote in an article published in The Washington Post (2014):
“Newport, R.I., generally conjures images of the Vanderbilts and the Astors and the 1 percent of the Gilded Age throwing lavish parties in their summer cottages. And rightly so. In that era, this small coastal city served as an over-the-top summer playground for some of the nation’s wealthiest citizens. Each season, a proper Newport hostess — to maintain her social standing — would have to hold six dinner parties with 60 guests each, and two balls with an invitation list of 600 each.”
Less than a mile south of Forty Steps, we stopped at one of the grandest homes, The Breakers. In 1885, Cornelius Vanderbilt II (steamships and railroads) purchased a wood-framed house called The Breakers, which was situated on 13 acres on the east side of Aquidneck Island. This house was destroyed in a fire in 1892. The next year, Vanderbilt commissioned architect Richard Morris Hunt to design a villa. With an international team of craftsmen and artisans, Hunt created a 70-room palatial building – 125 thousand square feet on five floors – “inspired by the 16th century palaces of Genoa and Turin.” Vanderbilt spent about seven million dollars to build The Breakers – the equivalent of more than $150 million today! It was the largest of the Newport cottages.
Debra and I (and our fellow passengers) walked through a sculpted iron gate entrance, which was the entrance to the property, and followed the paver drive to a large portico that protected the front door. There we stepped into an oversized foyer, where we began a self-guided audio tour through many (but not all!) of the rooms in The Breakers.
As we walked from room to room, we saw grand staircases, marble walls, alabaster arches, mahogany furniture, stone mosaics, bronze sculptures…
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…walnut paneling, gilt coffered and rococo ceilings, a spacious kitchen, magnificent chandeliers, limestone figures, and more.
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If I had to choose one word to describe The Breakers, the word would be “opulent,” which the dictionary defines as “ostentatiously rich and luxurious.” Yep…this was an apt adjective!
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The Breakers rivaled many of the royal palaces that Debra and I toured in Europe – grand in size and lavishly ornate. And while the Gilded Age families – the Vanderbilts, Astors, Rockerfellers, Carnegies, and others – weren’t royalty, they were America’s aristocracy. These industrialists were fabulously wealthy and lived “high on the hog,” and they had no qualms about displaying their wealth. It was great fun for Debra and me to see how these bygone one-percenters lived!
St. Mary’s Church
St. Mary’s is a well-preserved and important example of an early parish
church in Gothic Revival style, designed in keeping with the national trends in architecture. The asymmetrical Church is the focus of the parish complex.
The majestic presence of St. Mary’s Church conveys the impression of
both strength and soaring height, reflecting its gothic spirit.
~ National Register of Historic Places
church in Gothic Revival style, designed in keeping with the national trends in architecture. The asymmetrical Church is the focus of the parish complex.
The majestic presence of St. Mary’s Church conveys the impression of
both strength and soaring height, reflecting its gothic spirit.
~ National Register of Historic Places
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The last point of interest on our tour – a photo-op stop – was the church in which John Kennedy and Jacqueline Bouvier were married on September 12, 1953. Built on a three-quarter acre parcel in 1848-49, the church was consecrated as The Holy Name of Mary, Our Lady of the Isle – St. Mary’s, for short.
The wedding ceremony was performed by Archbishop Richard Cushing (later, Cardinal Cushing). During Kennedy’s three-year presidency, America’s first couple attended Sunday Mass at St. Mary’s when they weekended in Newport. St. Mary’s was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2008. |
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Ed dropped us at Newport Harbor late afternoon. We boarded a tender ship to reach the Caribbean Princess, which was anchored in Narragansett Bay. Debra and I made our way to the three-story piazza-style atrium, a multi-purpose space where, throughout the cruise, we had drinks, listened to music, talked with fellow passengers, and shopped. Well, today we found that the atrium had another treat for us – a “patch” of carved pumpkins covered in spider webs. Yes, the Halloween spirit was alive and well on board the Caribbean Princess. In fact, we saw many costumed guests this evening – adults who were, after all, children at heart.
Debra and I enjoyed a relaxing and sumptuous dinner in the dining room, where we reminisced about our day in Newport, a beautiful seaside city famous for its Colonial-era history, 19th century mansions, and spectacular scenery. Newport was unlike any city we visited on this cruise, and we loved it!
