In March/April 2019, Debra and I spent 13 days sightseeing south central Texas. We visited San Antonio, Houston, and Austin, as well as places in between. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this memorable trip.
This story, which is part of a series, is about the day we toured the Missions of San Antonio.
This story, which is part of a series, is about the day we toured the Missions of San Antonio.
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San Antonio, Texas (March 28, 2019) This was another beautiful day. Morning clouds and 70 degrees gave way to a mostly sunny sky and an afternoon temperature in the low 80s. It was picture perfect for our outdoor excursion!
Every large city has a nickname – The Big Apple (New York), City of Lights (Paris), Mile High City (Denver), and the Eternal City (Rome), to name a few. San Antonio was no exception. In fact, it had several nicknames, including Mission City. Why Mission City? Well, San Antonio, which was founded in 1718, was home to the largest concentration of Spanish missions in North America.
Every large city has a nickname – The Big Apple (New York), City of Lights (Paris), Mile High City (Denver), and the Eternal City (Rome), to name a few. San Antonio was no exception. In fact, it had several nicknames, including Mission City. Why Mission City? Well, San Antonio, which was founded in 1718, was home to the largest concentration of Spanish missions in North America.
Debra and I set out mid-morning to visit the chain of five frontier missions that dated to the early 18th century. Collectively, they comprise the San Antonio Missions National Historic Park, which was selected as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2015. We started at the southernmost mission, Espada, which was about 10 miles south of downtown San Antonio. From Espada, we made our way north to San Juan, San Jose, Concepcion, and The Alamo – the latter in downtown San Antonio near River Walk.
Espada, San Juan, San Jose, and Concepcion were originally located in East Texas. In the early 1700s, these missions were relocated to the area around San Antonio, then known by the Spanish name “Bejar.” They are still active parishes in the Catholic Church.
Debra and I read interesting and informative storyboards, like the one in this photo, as we walked through the buildings, ruins, and grounds at each mission. From these storyboards, we learned the history and purpose of the missions and the early development of present-day Texas. In a nutshell, here was what we gleaned:
Debra and I read interesting and informative storyboards, like the one in this photo, as we walked through the buildings, ruins, and grounds at each mission. From these storyboards, we learned the history and purpose of the missions and the early development of present-day Texas. In a nutshell, here was what we gleaned:
Spain established control over Mexico by the middle of the 1500s. At about the same time, it claimed ownership of the territory north of “El Rio Bravo del Norte” (“The Fierce River of the North”), otherwise known as the Rio Grande. This territory was called “Tejas.”
By the late 1500s, the Spanish colonial government was charged with spreading Spain’s influence throughout Tejas. To accomplish this objective, the colonial government sent Franciscan Friars to Tejas to create new social and cultural centers for the Coahuiltecans, who were the indigenous Indians of the Rio Grande valley. The Coahuiltecans were hunters and gatherers.
Friars taught the Coahuiltecans self-sufficiency through farming, ranching, and various trades, and spread Catholicism by converting the Coahuiltecans to the Catholic religion. In the 1600s and 1700s, Friars built dozens of missions and presidios (military forts) in Tejas. Over time, most of the missions were abandoned. Some, though, grew into thriving settlements that became the foundations for future cities, including San Antonio.
By the late 1500s, the Spanish colonial government was charged with spreading Spain’s influence throughout Tejas. To accomplish this objective, the colonial government sent Franciscan Friars to Tejas to create new social and cultural centers for the Coahuiltecans, who were the indigenous Indians of the Rio Grande valley. The Coahuiltecans were hunters and gatherers.
Friars taught the Coahuiltecans self-sufficiency through farming, ranching, and various trades, and spread Catholicism by converting the Coahuiltecans to the Catholic religion. In the 1600s and 1700s, Friars built dozens of missions and presidios (military forts) in Tejas. Over time, most of the missions were abandoned. Some, though, grew into thriving settlements that became the foundations for future cities, including San Antonio.
Mission San Francisco de la Espada
Originally named Mission San Francisco de los Tejas, Espada was the first Spanish mission established in Texas (1690). It was renamed when it was moved to San Antonio in 1731. Espada, like the other missions, housed between 200 and 300 Coahuiltecans, who were referred to as “Mission Indians.” At Espada, the Mission Indians learned weaving and brickmaking.
Fun Fact The aqueduct at Espada still draws water from the San Antonio River to irrigate local crops, making it the country’s oldest aqueduct in continuous use.
Debra and I entered the small chapel through a keyhole-shaped doorway. The chapel was simple – plastered walls, rough-cut wood-beamed ceilings, a dozen or so rows of wooden pews, and a raised pulpit. We spent a moment of reflection inside, and then wandered through the extensive grounds, where the stone foundations for many buildings were still visible.
Fun Fact The aqueduct at Espada still draws water from the San Antonio River to irrigate local crops, making it the country’s oldest aqueduct in continuous use.
Debra and I entered the small chapel through a keyhole-shaped doorway. The chapel was simple – plastered walls, rough-cut wood-beamed ceilings, a dozen or so rows of wooden pews, and a raised pulpit. We spent a moment of reflection inside, and then wandered through the extensive grounds, where the stone foundations for many buildings were still visible.
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Mission San Juan Capistrano
San Juan was founded in 1716 and moved to its present location in 1731. The Mission Indians were taught toolmaking, weaving and farming, and the mission served as an important regional supplier of these goods through a trade network that ran east to Louisiana and south into Mexico.
Fun Fact Water was restored to the acequia (a system of water ditches) in 2012, and the first crop was sown on the original farm fields the next year.
The chapel at San Juan was plain by comparison to the other missions - a largely unadorned rectangular, with the bell tower as the only ornamentation. As Debra and I strolled through the complex, we passed a dwelling (circa 1824) typical of houses built within the mission compound during this period. We stepped into the ruins of several buildings, including a second church that was completed in 1763, and over the foundations of others, including the granary building and some of the original quarters for the Mission Indians.
Fun Fact Water was restored to the acequia (a system of water ditches) in 2012, and the first crop was sown on the original farm fields the next year.
The chapel at San Juan was plain by comparison to the other missions - a largely unadorned rectangular, with the bell tower as the only ornamentation. As Debra and I strolled through the complex, we passed a dwelling (circa 1824) typical of houses built within the mission compound during this period. We stepped into the ruins of several buildings, including a second church that was completed in 1763, and over the foundations of others, including the granary building and some of the original quarters for the Mission Indians.
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Mission San Jose y San Miguel de Aguayo
San Jose, a major social and cultural center for the regional area, was founded in 1720 to alleviate the overcrowding at The Alamo. In addition to a granary and gristmill, the mission had workshops where the Coahuiltecans learned carpentry, blacksmithing, and weaving. San Jose, the largest of the missions in the area, was known as the “Queen of the Missions.”
Fun Fact The stairway to the bell tower, with twenty-five steps hand-carved from a single oak log, was constructed without nails or pegs.
Debra and I were awestruck by the architectural design of the two-story arcade – eight or more large archways stacked two-high on the walls and near-perfect symmetry as we looked through the arcade from one end to the other. The chapel, which was topped by a dome and had a large single bell tower, was ornate – a baby-blue color washed the wall behind the pulpit and the sculpted reliefs appeared as if dipped in gold. It was beautiful!
Fun Fact The stairway to the bell tower, with twenty-five steps hand-carved from a single oak log, was constructed without nails or pegs.
Debra and I were awestruck by the architectural design of the two-story arcade – eight or more large archways stacked two-high on the walls and near-perfect symmetry as we looked through the arcade from one end to the other. The chapel, which was topped by a dome and had a large single bell tower, was ornate – a baby-blue color washed the wall behind the pulpit and the sculpted reliefs appeared as if dipped in gold. It was beautiful!
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Mission Nuestra Senora de la Purisima Concepcion de Acuna
Concepcion, dedicated in 1755, was named after Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. Built directly on bedrock, it never lost its structural integrity. In fact, it was the least restored of the five missions, and looked very much as it did more than 200 years ago. As with the other missions, Concepcion was a self-sufficient, self-contained village, with trades work completed inside the mission and farming done outside the mission’s walls.
Fun Fact Concepcion is the oldest unrestored stone church in America.
Debra and I loved the twin bell towers, which were a distinctive architectural feature of this mission. The walls of the well-lit chapel were washed in earthen tones. There was a lovely garden on the grounds that included a Grotto of the Virgin Mary framed by oak trees.
Fun Fact Concepcion is the oldest unrestored stone church in America.
Debra and I loved the twin bell towers, which were a distinctive architectural feature of this mission. The walls of the well-lit chapel were washed in earthen tones. There was a lovely garden on the grounds that included a Grotto of the Virgin Mary framed by oak trees.
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Intermission
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Four missions down, one to go – but first, it was time to refuel. Debra and I headed to the Pearl District, an outdoor complex of shops, restaurants, and more on the former site of the original Pearl Brewery. After a quick review of restaurants on TripAdvisor, we went to Supper, where we ordered hamburgers topped with a sunny-side-up egg. The burgers were delicious, and the locally brewed Southerleigh beer I washed it down with was refreshing. Great taste, and probably more filling!
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After lunch, we walked next door to Hotel Emma, named for the “Mrs.” of the couple who owned the Pearl Brewing Company. The first-floor public areas incorporated many of the mammoth cast-iron tanks and steel machinery used in the brewhouse. Very cool!
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Fully sated, we were ready to resume or tour.
Mission San Antonio de Valero
Better known as The Alamo, this mission was established at its present location in 1718. At about the same time, the Spanish settlers established a nearby military garrison that soon became the center of the settlement known as “Villa de Bejar” – later to be named “San Antonio”. This mission served as a way station between base missions in Mexico and missions in East Texas. Later, it was used as a garrison in the Mexican Revolution and as a defensive fortification in the Texas Rebellion.
Fun Fact The Second Flying Company of San Carlos, a Mexican army group, occupied the garrison around 1803. They named the garrison “El Alamo” after the Spanish word for “cottonwood” because it stood in a grove of cottonwood trees.
Debra and I walked alongside a section of the mission’s wall that was part of quarters and offices of the Spanish missionaries. This led us to a monument that commemorated the Battle of the Alamo (1836) and the people who died there. Constructed of marble and granite, the Spirit of Sacrifice was created by local sculptor Pompeo Coppini and dedicated in 1940. The carved figures on the longer sides depict the defenders, none of whom survived the battle. From the monument we walked to the stone chapel, which had two decorative columns on either side of a large wooden door. Inside the chapel, Debra and I saw the confessional, baptistery, and sacristy. Unfortunately, there was a "no photo" policy inside the chapel.
The Alamo - the "Shrine of Texas Liberty" - is a major tourist attraction, with more than 2.5 million visitors a year.
Fun Fact The Second Flying Company of San Carlos, a Mexican army group, occupied the garrison around 1803. They named the garrison “El Alamo” after the Spanish word for “cottonwood” because it stood in a grove of cottonwood trees.
Debra and I walked alongside a section of the mission’s wall that was part of quarters and offices of the Spanish missionaries. This led us to a monument that commemorated the Battle of the Alamo (1836) and the people who died there. Constructed of marble and granite, the Spirit of Sacrifice was created by local sculptor Pompeo Coppini and dedicated in 1940. The carved figures on the longer sides depict the defenders, none of whom survived the battle. From the monument we walked to the stone chapel, which had two decorative columns on either side of a large wooden door. Inside the chapel, Debra and I saw the confessional, baptistery, and sacristy. Unfortunately, there was a "no photo" policy inside the chapel.
The Alamo - the "Shrine of Texas Liberty" - is a major tourist attraction, with more than 2.5 million visitors a year.
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Postscript
When we left the Pearl District earlier, I noticed a cafe with a sign in its window that advertised fresh homemade pies - something that Debra and I had craved but not yet found. After a day of sightseeing, we were ready for desert, and where to go was a no-brainer. Earl Abel’s, while a nondescript cafe, had a large selection of pies. Debra ordered Black Bottom and I asked for Maple Pecan. Before the manager would serve our pies, he insisted that we try their award-winning fried chicken. Who were we to say “No”? The chicken and the pies hit the spot!
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Debra and I talked about our day as we ate, and here was our take-away: We loved learning about the early history of Tejas/Texas – about the lives of the missionaries and Coahuiltecans – and gaining a better understanding behind the strong Spanish and Mexican influences throughout the southwestern states, including our home state of Arizona. We thoroughly enjoyed our experience!