In May 2018, son David and I went on holiday to London for five days. We spent three days sightseeing in the city and took a couple of day trips, one to Oxford and one to the county of Kent. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this fabulous trip.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in the county of Kent.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in the county of Kent.
Kent County, England (May 25, 2018) – This was our last full day in England, as tomorrow David and I will board the Sapphire Princess to begin a seven-day Scandinavia cruise. But that’s tomorrow’s story, which you can read about HERE. This day we travelled by train from London to Gravesend, an ancient town located on the south bank of the River Thames in the county of Kent.
“Why Gravesend? you might ask. Well, Tanya and Dave live there. Your next question might be, “Who are Tanya and Dave?” I’m glad you asked! They’re a lovely couple my wife Debra and I met several years ago on a Hawaiian cruise. They were seated at the table next to us at dinner one night. We struck up a conversation and invited them to join us for dessert. We forged a friendship over several more dinners on that cruise.
When I began to plan our trip to England, I contacted Tanya to see if we could get together. Her answer was “Yes!” Tanya took charge of planning a day of sightseeing in Kent, starting from Gravesend. We would visit Higham, Rochester, Hever, and Greenwich. As the British like to say, the itinerary was “brilliant!”
When I began to plan our trip to England, I contacted Tanya to see if we could get together. Her answer was “Yes!” Tanya took charge of planning a day of sightseeing in Kent, starting from Gravesend. We would visit Higham, Rochester, Hever, and Greenwich. As the British like to say, the itinerary was “brilliant!”
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Riding the Rails to Gravesend
David and I left our hotel early morning and caught a “local” train to Gravesend - ten stops in small towns (Crayford, Sidcup, Stone Crossing, Greenhithe, Northfleet, and others) to drop off and pick up passengers. It was a leisurely pace, to be sure. No matter, though, as we saw some of each town when we slowed to a stop at each station. And traveling at this slower pace allowed us to take in the beautiful countryside as we gazed out the window. The clackety-clack of the train’s wheels on the tracks was almost hypnotic!
David and I left our hotel early morning and caught a “local” train to Gravesend - ten stops in small towns (Crayford, Sidcup, Stone Crossing, Greenhithe, Northfleet, and others) to drop off and pick up passengers. It was a leisurely pace, to be sure. No matter, though, as we saw some of each town when we slowed to a stop at each station. And traveling at this slower pace allowed us to take in the beautiful countryside as we gazed out the window. The clackety-clack of the train’s wheels on the tracks was almost hypnotic!
We arrived in Gravesend (pop. 75,000) about an hour after we left London. The sky was overcast, and the temperature was in the upper 50s. It warmed to the mid-60s in the afternoon, which was perfect weather for sightseeing.
The origin of the town’s name is open to debate. The myth is that Gravesend was the final resting place for many of the estimated 100,000 Londoners killed by the bubonic plague in the 17th century. The truth is that this town was named centuries before the plague, possibly as early as the 11th century.
Tanya and Dave met us at the station, and with Dave at the wheel, we set off on a full day of sightseeing.
The origin of the town’s name is open to debate. The myth is that Gravesend was the final resting place for many of the estimated 100,000 Londoners killed by the bubonic plague in the 17th century. The truth is that this town was named centuries before the plague, possibly as early as the 11th century.
Tanya and Dave met us at the station, and with Dave at the wheel, we set off on a full day of sightseeing.
The Pocahontas Connection
When I researched Gravesend, I learned that Pocahontas – yes, the Algonquin Indian Princess we learned about in grade school! – was buried in Gravesend. No one knew the exact location of her grave, however, there was a statue of Pocahontas at St. George’s Church. Now, I don’t have feelings one way or the other for Pocahontas, but I was fascinated by this fact, and asked Tanya to make this the first stop on our tour of Kent.
When I researched Gravesend, I learned that Pocahontas – yes, the Algonquin Indian Princess we learned about in grade school! – was buried in Gravesend. No one knew the exact location of her grave, however, there was a statue of Pocahontas at St. George’s Church. Now, I don’t have feelings one way or the other for Pocahontas, but I was fascinated by this fact, and asked Tanya to make this the first stop on our tour of Kent.
"... at the minute of my execution", he wrote, "she [Pocahontas] hazarded
the beating out of her own brains to save mine; and not only that, but so
prevailed with her father, that I was safely conducted to Jamestown."
~ Captain John Smith, A True Relation of Virginia
the beating out of her own brains to save mine; and not only that, but so
prevailed with her father, that I was safely conducted to Jamestown."
~ Captain John Smith, A True Relation of Virginia
If you’re rusty on your American history (I was), here’s the backstory on Pocahontas: John Smith was captured by the Algonquin Indians in 1607. Facing certain death by clubbing, a young girl – Princess Pocahontas – pleaded for his life, placing her head over his. Her father, Chief Powhatan, decided to spare his life.
Why was Pocahontas buried and memorialized in Gravesend? Soon after marrying Englishman John Rolfe in 1614, they moved to London. Two years later, Rolfe was appointed Secretary of the colony of Virginia. Pocahontas became ill on the return trip to Virginia, either on board the ship as it travelled down the Thames or after making port in Gravesend. Either way, Pocahontas died in Gravesend and was buried there.
Next, we made a quick stop at the fire station where Tanya and Dave work as firefighters. There we took an up close and personal look at the trucks and equipment. David got into this experience by donning some of their gear. It was a hoot!
Why was Pocahontas buried and memorialized in Gravesend? Soon after marrying Englishman John Rolfe in 1614, they moved to London. Two years later, Rolfe was appointed Secretary of the colony of Virginia. Pocahontas became ill on the return trip to Virginia, either on board the ship as it travelled down the Thames or after making port in Gravesend. Either way, Pocahontas died in Gravesend and was buried there.
Next, we made a quick stop at the fire station where Tanya and Dave work as firefighters. There we took an up close and personal look at the trucks and equipment. David got into this experience by donning some of their gear. It was a hoot!
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A Tale of Three Cities (One More Than Dickens!)
Leaving Gravesend, we drove to Higham (pop. 4,000), home to Gad’s Hill School. The school occupies the former Gad’s Hill Place, a manor house. A young Charles Dickens (nine years old) first saw this house when he walked through Kent with his father. In later years, Dickens said that his father saw his interest in the house and told him, “If you were to be very persevering and were to work hard, you might some day come to live in it.” At the time, young Dickens thought it “impossible.” But he must have worked hard and persevered, because he bought Gad’s Hill Place in 1856, and it was his country home until his death in 1870. There he wrote several of his novels, including Great Expectations and A Tale of Two Cities.
Leaving Gravesend, we drove to Higham (pop. 4,000), home to Gad’s Hill School. The school occupies the former Gad’s Hill Place, a manor house. A young Charles Dickens (nine years old) first saw this house when he walked through Kent with his father. In later years, Dickens said that his father saw his interest in the house and told him, “If you were to be very persevering and were to work hard, you might some day come to live in it.” At the time, young Dickens thought it “impossible.” But he must have worked hard and persevered, because he bought Gad’s Hill Place in 1856, and it was his country home until his death in 1870. There he wrote several of his novels, including Great Expectations and A Tale of Two Cities.
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There was another literary connection in Higham for us to see – Sir John Falstaff Pub, which dates to the latter half of the 17th century. Located on the old Dover Road, this pub was named for a fictional character – a “comedic sidekick” to and ”bad influence” on Prince Hal, the future King Henry V – who appeared in three plays by William Shakespeare and is mentioned in a fourth play. Ahhhh…Merry Olde England!
A City Steeped in History
From Higham we headed to the city of Rochester (pop. 65,000), which traces its roots back almost 2,000 years. Roman Emperor Claudius ordered the invasion of Britain in 43 AD, a gradual process that took place over 40 years. During the invasion, the Roman army established a settlement and stronghold on the east bank of the River Medway, which they called Durobrivae (later renamed Rochester). This settlement was on a road that ran from east Kent to London, and to accommodate travel, the Romans built a stone bridge across the Medway. No, this photo is not the original Roman bridge, but rather a modern day one that is better equipped to handle cars rather than chariots!
From Higham we headed to the city of Rochester (pop. 65,000), which traces its roots back almost 2,000 years. Roman Emperor Claudius ordered the invasion of Britain in 43 AD, a gradual process that took place over 40 years. During the invasion, the Roman army established a settlement and stronghold on the east bank of the River Medway, which they called Durobrivae (later renamed Rochester). This settlement was on a road that ran from east Kent to London, and to accommodate travel, the Romans built a stone bridge across the Medway. No, this photo is not the original Roman bridge, but rather a modern day one that is better equipped to handle cars rather than chariots!
We parked near the bridge and walked a short distance to Rochester Castle. The castle was built in the 11th century after the Norman invasion. As a “royal castle,” it served as a residence of the British royal family. During the late medieval period, the garrisoned castle helped protect England’s southeast coast from invasion. The castle’s keep, a fortified tower, was constructed in the 12th century under the direction of the Archbishop of Canterbury. With three floors, the keep is 113 feet high; it is the tallest surviving keep in Europe. The castle withstood several sieges, although it was heavily damaged. It continued to serve as a fortress until the 16th century.
“History came alive” for David and me as we walked the castle’s grounds, where royalty and statesmen once stood and important battles of Britain were fought. We loved it!
From the castle, we walked across Boley Hill (a road) to Rochester Cathedral. When I first saw the Cathedral, I thought that the tall towers gave it an almost castle-like appearance – perhaps something from a fairytale.
Rochester Cathedral was founded by King Ethelbert of Kent in 604 AD, making it the second oldest cathedral in England. (The oldest is Canterbury, also located in the county of Kent, which Debra and I visited in 2019.)
The current building, of Norman and Gothic architecture, dates to the late 11th century. Over the years, Rochester Cathedral was destroyed by two fires (and rebuilt), looted twice in the 13th century, and became “a place of ill repute” where gambling and drinking took place in the 1800s.
Rochester Cathedral was founded by King Ethelbert of Kent in 604 AD, making it the second oldest cathedral in England. (The oldest is Canterbury, also located in the county of Kent, which Debra and I visited in 2019.)
The current building, of Norman and Gothic architecture, dates to the late 11th century. Over the years, Rochester Cathedral was destroyed by two fires (and rebuilt), looted twice in the 13th century, and became “a place of ill repute” where gambling and drinking took place in the 1800s.
We entered the Cathedral through the North Door and turned right to step into the Nave, which is the main body of the Cathedral and the setting for Sunday services and other events. David and I loved the soaring ceilings and symmetrical arched columns. We passed the Lady Chapel and walked through the Quire to the Cathedral's Presbytery. Then we stepped through a door to a square garden with a cloister (covered walkway). Much of the cloister was destroyed in the Protestant Reformation, which began under King Henry VIII. Here's a twist of irony: It is believed that King Henry VIII met his fourth wife, Anne of Cleves, in the cloister. I guess it's all in the timing!
From the Cathedral, we walked to High Street, which was lined with shops of all kinds – some quaint, some not so. One story that did catch our eyes had a very colorful display of candies in the window.
Rochester is home to the Dickens Festival (first week of June). This must be why someone painted a mural of Charles Dickens on the side of a building on High Street. (Click on the bottom right photo to enlarge it and see the mural.)
From the Cathedral, we walked to High Street, which was lined with shops of all kinds – some quaint, some not so. One story that did catch our eyes had a very colorful display of candies in the window.
Rochester is home to the Dickens Festival (first week of June). This must be why someone painted a mural of Charles Dickens on the side of a building on High Street. (Click on the bottom right photo to enlarge it and see the mural.)
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“Chim chiminey, chim chiminey, chim chim cher-ee
A sweep is as lucky as lucky can be”
~ Sung by Bert in Mary Poppins
A sweep is as lucky as lucky can be”
~ Sung by Bert in Mary Poppins
Rochester is also home to another festival. Did you guess what it was? It’s the Sweeps Festival (May Day weekend), which celebrates a 300-year old trade: chimney sweeps!
A Beautiful Countryside Estate
We drove from Rochester to the village of Hever (pop. 2,000), home to the 13th century Hever Castle, the countryside estate of the Boleyn family. A Boleyn daughter, Anne, was the second wife of King Henry VIII. They were married for just three years (1533 – 1536) when the King dissolved their marriage by having her beheaded. The King said she had committed adultery and incest and had conspired against him. Historians, though, believed these were trumped up charges, issued by the King so that he could marry Jane Seymour in hopes of producing a male heir. Either way, I guess there was no need for divorce lawyers in those days!
We drove from Rochester to the village of Hever (pop. 2,000), home to the 13th century Hever Castle, the countryside estate of the Boleyn family. A Boleyn daughter, Anne, was the second wife of King Henry VIII. They were married for just three years (1533 – 1536) when the King dissolved their marriage by having her beheaded. The King said she had committed adultery and incest and had conspired against him. Historians, though, believed these were trumped up charges, issued by the King so that he could marry Jane Seymour in hopes of producing a male heir. Either way, I guess there was no need for divorce lawyers in those days!
We had time to tour the castle or see the grounds, but not both; we opted to do the latter. First, though, it was time to refuel.
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We spent an hour walking the grounds – manicured lawns and shrubs, a lake and canals, Pompeiian wall and classical statuary, flowers (including 4,000 rose bushes!), and a small waterfall – set in 125 acres. The grounds were stunning, and the colors of the flowers were vibrant!
A final note on Hever Castle: William Waldorf Astor, a wealthy American-born attorney, politician, businessman and newspaper publisher, purchased the castle in 1903. The gardens then were modest, mostly around the walls of the castle. The gardens we saw today were a result of his effort to restore and expand the original gardens.
We Had a “Mean Time”
Our final stop was in Greenwich, a borough in east London (pop. 286,000 people). While Greenwich boasts many important buildings, it may be best known for the Royal Observatory, home to the Prime Meridian Line of the world. This north-south line, designated as “Longitude 0 degrees,” divides the world into the eastern and western hemispheres, just as the equator divides the world into the northern and southern hemispheres. David and I stood on either side of the prime meridian – I was in the eastern hemisphere while David was in the western hemisphere. How cool was that!
We Had a “Mean Time”
Our final stop was in Greenwich, a borough in east London (pop. 286,000 people). While Greenwich boasts many important buildings, it may be best known for the Royal Observatory, home to the Prime Meridian Line of the world. This north-south line, designated as “Longitude 0 degrees,” divides the world into the eastern and western hemispheres, just as the equator divides the world into the northern and southern hemispheres. David and I stood on either side of the prime meridian – I was in the eastern hemisphere while David was in the western hemisphere. How cool was that!
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One other point of interest about the Prime Meridian Line: It serves as a reference for Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). At one time, GMT was the international standard of civil time. It is still the point from which all time zones are measured.
From the Royal Observatory, we walked into Greenwich, passing Greenwich Park (oldest London park in the Royal Park system) and a number of significant buildings along the way, including The Queen's House (top photo), Old Royal Naval College (bottom left), and the National Maritime Museum (bottom right).
From the Royal Observatory, we walked into Greenwich, passing Greenwich Park (oldest London park in the Royal Park system) and a number of significant buildings along the way, including The Queen's House (top photo), Old Royal Naval College (bottom left), and the National Maritime Museum (bottom right).
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The Queen’s House, a former royal residence, was designed as the first fully Classical building in England by architect Indigo Jones. Construction was completed around 1636, and it was used by the royal family until 1805. The Queen’s House is rumored to be haunted, after a photo taken in the 1960s by a tourist appeared to show one or more ghosts on the Tulip stairs.
We walked to the Cutty Sark, a historic British clipper ship built in 1869. It now serves as a museum. The ship’s name, taken from a poem by Robert Burns (Tam O’Shanter), refers to a short nightie worn by one of the main characters in the poem, a young, attractive witch named Nannie.
This ship, which had a crew of over 600 men, was one of the last tea clippers to be built, as steam ships replaced sailing ships. Clippers had three design characteristics – a long, narrow hull; a sharp bow which cuts through the waves rather than riding atop; and three raking masts. The Cutty Sark was quite a sight to see!
We walked to the Cutty Sark, a historic British clipper ship built in 1869. It now serves as a museum. The ship’s name, taken from a poem by Robert Burns (Tam O’Shanter), refers to a short nightie worn by one of the main characters in the poem, a young, attractive witch named Nannie.
This ship, which had a crew of over 600 men, was one of the last tea clippers to be built, as steam ships replaced sailing ships. Clippers had three design characteristics – a long, narrow hull; a sharp bow which cuts through the waves rather than riding atop; and three raking masts. The Cutty Sark was quite a sight to see!
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We ended our day together at the Old Brewery, where we had dinner and hoisted a beer (or two). I don't recall what the others ate, but for me it was a traditional British entree - gammon steak and eggs. It was deeeelishous!
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After dinner, Tanya and Dave dropped us at a nearby underground station, where we said our goodbyes before David and I boarded the train to London.
After David and I returned home, I read that Kent was known as the "Garden of England" – a phrase attributed to Henry VIII – because of its rural beauty. David and I saw that beauty on display as we journeyed from one town to the next - farmlands, rolling green hills, winding country roads, cultivated country estates, tall hedgerows, fields, and woodlands. That was the icing on the cake for David and me. We had a great day with special friends – a day of new memories and a new story!
After David and I returned home, I read that Kent was known as the "Garden of England" – a phrase attributed to Henry VIII – because of its rural beauty. David and I saw that beauty on display as we journeyed from one town to the next - farmlands, rolling green hills, winding country roads, cultivated country estates, tall hedgerows, fields, and woodlands. That was the icing on the cake for David and me. We had a great day with special friends – a day of new memories and a new story!
