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Galveston: The Island City

12/20/2023

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In November/December 2023, Debra and I went on a 14-day cruise of the Western Caribbean on board the Regal Princess. We sailed round trip from Galveston, Texas, with port stops in Costa Maya, Belize City, Cozumel, and Roatan. Click HERE to read a short introduction.

This story, the first in a series, is about our pre-cruise days in Galveston. 

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Galveston, Texas (November 24–26) Back in April 2019, Debra and I took a road trip—a three-city tour—through South Central Texas: San Antonio, Houston, and Austin. It was a great adventure!

We had planned a day trip to Galveston from Houston, but we moved in a different direction that day. So, we were glad to have a second opportunity to see this island city on the southeast coast of Texas.  

Our Friday flight from Phoenix touched down in Houston late afternoon, and from Houston, we took a shuttle to Galveston, an hour-long ride south on Interstate 45, the last stretch on a 1-mile causeway that connected Galveston to mainland Texas. Our driver dropped us at the Hilton Galveston Island Resort.
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Hilton Galveston Island Resort
We LOVED our 2-night stay at this hotel! It was clean, quiet, and comfortable, and the service was great. 

After we settled into our spacious room—it was half past 5—I said to Debra, “I’m famished. Are you ready for dinner?”


You see, I had long since burned through the calories from our last meal, an early morning breakfast—eggs, bacon, potatoes, and toast—at Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport, and I was certain that Debra had, too.

“Sure, but let’s not venture far—preferably, no further than a short walk,” Debra replied.

I typed ‘restaurants near me’ in the Google search bar on my phone. Hmmm, I thought, that’s a pretty short list.

“We have 3 options. The first is Palm Court at Hilton—it’s downstairs on the first floor. The second is Landry’s Prime Seafood & Steaks, which is next door. And the third is Rainforest Café, also next door.”

I could see the wheels spinning as Debra contemplated our choices.

“Do you remember the last time we went to the Rainforest Café?” Debra asked.

It must have been the blank stare on my face—I do that a lot when it comes to arcane memories—because she answered her own question.

“It was 30 years ago when we were in Las Vegas. I think it’s time we go again!”
The Rainforest Cafe was everything we remembered it to be—an over-the-top artificial rainforest, life-size animated jungle animals, lots of kids (and noise!), and an extensive menu, which we perused with delight. 
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Debra ordered chicken fried steak, while I opted for the salmon & shrimp plate and a 16-ounce glass of Tiki Wheat beer from Galveston Island Brewing. Our food was delicious, and the service was spot on.

Soon after we finished dinner, the sun set on our first day in Galveston.
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A few weeks back, when I prepped for our one full day in Galveston (a Saturday), I read several ‘Things to See and Do’ blogs. I shared a handful of top attractions with Debra, including Bishop’s Palace, Ocean Star Offshore Drilling Rig & Museum, Moody Gardens, and The Strand.

“What’s The Strand?” she asked.

“It’s the nickname of the historic district in downtown Galveston, where many of the buildings are more than a century old,” I replied. “The main street, also called The Strand, is lined with antique and curio shops, art galleries and boutiques, cafes and restaurants, and parks.”

“That sounds like fun!” Debra said. “Let’s go there.”
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And so, we did. 


Late morning, at about 11, I entered a destination—the Shark Shack—into the Uber app on my phone. Our ride arrived within 5 minutes, the driver a young lady who lived just north of Galveston. Ten minutes later, she dropped us at the Shack, located near the west end of The Strand. 
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The Shark Shack offered “fresh seafood dishes, top-rated burgers, and Galveston’s best appetizers.” Although it was a bit early for lunch, the restaurant filled quickly. And like the Rainforest Café, there were plenty of kids who made lots of noise.
(The truth is, it’s fun to be around young people!)


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“Well, Deb, do you know what you want?”

“I sure do—an order of fried pickles and the seafood platter.”

“Will you share the fried pickles?” I asked with a smile.

“You know it!” 

I also ordered the seafood platter, which came with a shrimp & crab cake, choice of potatoes, and steamed veggies.
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There were more fried pickles than we could possibly eat, but we had no problem polishing off our seafood platters.

“You know,” Debra said with a chuckle, “I’m not a seafood person, but the salmon was tasty, and everything was hot—just the way it should be.”
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We were off to a great start!

Mother Nature blessed us with perfect weather for our stroll along The Strand—mid 60s, partly sunny sky, slight breeze. We both wore windbreakers over long-sleeved shirts.  
The Strand Historic District was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1970 and was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1976 for its unparalleled collection of commercial Victorian architecture in Texas. The architectural styles include Greek Revival and Beaux-Arts. The two oldest buildings still standing date to 1855 and 1858.
~ Wikipedia
Debra and I walked west to east and then east to west— from one end of The Strand to the other and back again. The buildings in this photo were representative of the architecture we saw.
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Like American film critics Siskel and Ebert, we gave the architecture ‘two thumbs up!’

A couple hundred feet past the Shack, we shopped in Tina’s on the Strand, an upscale boutique, where Debra bought 3 Christmas angels as gifts for 3 friends back home. 
There was a historical marker in front of the store, which identified the building it was housed in as the Hutchings, Sealy & Co. Buildings—2 individual but connected structures. It was designed by Galveston architect Nicholas Clayton and built in 1895. 


​The building’s Renaissance revival style is represented by the heavily rusticated stone arches featured on its entryways, terra cotta detailing on the parapets and entablatures, evenly spaced columns and pilasters, elaborate stone cornice, and arcading windows.
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This majestic building is a reminder of a grand era in Galveston’s history and the philanthropic legacy of early businessman.
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Soon we reached Saengerfest Park, a small square created in the 1990s to host music and movie nights throughout the year.

“Deb, it’s a photo op. I’ll ask someone to take our picture.”

 O Tannenbaum, O Tannenbaum…
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Before we left The Strand, we stopped to admire The Stone Trumpet, Galveston’s “famed trumpet sculpture” created by David Adickes, a Texas-born sculptor and painter, for the 1984 World’s Fair Exposition in New Orleans. The Stone Trumpet measures 26 feet in length by 14 feet tall—possibly the largest trumpet in the world. It was relocated to Galveston in 1986.  

(Truth Be Told: The Stone Trumpet is a cornet, not a trumpet, and it was made from a mixture of steel and concrete, not stone.)
 
I summoned an Uber, which dropped us at our hotel. Debra headed to our room for a bit of R&R before dinner, while I crossed Seawall Boulevard to walk on the beach. 
When I reached the seawall—literally, a wall that has protected Galveston from powerful storms headed inland from the Gulf of Mexico—I spotted a red flag that flew atop an informational sign. The red flag advised beachgoers that conditions were “out of the ordinary,” meaning strong winds, strong currents, and large surf.

The flag warning system, I learned, includes 5 conditions—Green (the safest), Yellow, Red, Purple, and Orange (the most dangerous). So, that day conditions were betwixt and between safe and dangerous.

The first segment of the seawall was completed in 1904, 4 years after the Great Storm of 1900—a Category 4 hurricane with sustained wind speeds of 145 mph—devastated the city, with more than 6,000 dead and millions of dollars in property damage. 
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The seawall—originally 3.3 miles—was tested in 1915 by a more severe hurricane. It worked, and the storm did far less damage. Over the years, it was extended 7 times, and is currently 10 miles long, 17 feet high, and 16 feet thick at its base.

The Great Storm Memorial, designed by Galveston sculptor David W. Moore, depicts “a family holding on to each other as the storm rages around them.”  It was installed atop the seawall in 2000.

I didn’t venture into the water that day, but I did walk onto on a granite slab jetty that extended into the Gulf.
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As I reached the end of the jetty, I was mesmerized by the sounds and sights as wave after wave crashed over the top of the rocks. It was my ‘moment of Zen,’ which I captured in a short video that I’ve watched over and over again!
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Debra was ready for dinner when I reached our room.

“Where to?” I asked.

“Let’s keep it simple,” she replied. “The Rainforest Café.”

Well, it was a repeat experience—delicious food, great service, and a lovely way to end our short stay in Galveston. 

Click here to read my next story, Costa Maya: Chacchoben - The Place of the Red Maize.
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