In September 2022, daughter Jill and I traveled north to Alaska – a 12-day adventure from Seward to Fairbanks. Click HERE to read a short introduction to our epic trip.
This story is the ninth in a series about the sights we saw and the experiences we had as we traveled through The Last Frontier.
This story is the ninth in a series about the sights we saw and the experiences we had as we traveled through The Last Frontier.
Fairbanks, Alaska (September 11, 2022) Early to bed, early to rise…
It was 7 a.m. – three hours until the start of my first excursion. I checked my phone for messages from Jill. Nada. I’ll wait an hour, I thought, before I call her.
This was our first full day in Fairbanks, and we planned two excursions – one in the morning, one in the afternoon. However, as I shared in my last story, A Reindeer Meet and Greet, I flew solo – that is, I went sightseeing on my own – because Jill had a nasty cold that kept her room-bound until she flew home two days hence.
We booked our stay in Fairbanks at the city’s “only riverside guest cottage property” – River’s Edge Resort, located on the southern bank of the Chena River. It wasn’t a resort, but the one-bedroom cottages we stayed in – we each had our own – were clean, comfortable, and quiet.
After I showered and dressed, I went to Miner’s Hall Café for breakfast. Located onsite in the main building, the café offered a cold and hot buffet. I opted for ‘hot’ – eggs, potatoes, sausage, and toast, which I washed down with a glass of cranberry juice and two cups of coffee. The food was good – actually, it was better than most of the breakfast buffets where Jill and I ate earlier in our trip.
Jill called as I took the last sip of coffee.
“Good timing,” I said. “I just finished breakfast at the cafe. How are you feeling?”
“About the same,” she replied. “Stuffy nose, sore throat, fever. But I’m not too sick to eat, so I’ll see you in a few minutes.”
I sat with Jill while she tucked away her breakfast, and when she was finished, we headed to our respective cottages.
“Have fun!” she said as we parted company.
“Thank you, and feel better,” I replied. “I’ll call later.”
Every placed I’ve travelled to – towns, cities, countries – had nicknames: Peace Garden State (North Dakota), Island of the Winds (Mykonos), and Alamo City (San Antonio), to name a few.
Fairbanks – Alaska’s second largest city (pop. 33.000) – had a nickname, too: The Golden Heart City. The city’s gold mining legacy put the ‘Golden’ in its nickname, while its central location made Fairbanks the ‘Heart’ of Alaska.
It was 7 a.m. – three hours until the start of my first excursion. I checked my phone for messages from Jill. Nada. I’ll wait an hour, I thought, before I call her.
This was our first full day in Fairbanks, and we planned two excursions – one in the morning, one in the afternoon. However, as I shared in my last story, A Reindeer Meet and Greet, I flew solo – that is, I went sightseeing on my own – because Jill had a nasty cold that kept her room-bound until she flew home two days hence.
We booked our stay in Fairbanks at the city’s “only riverside guest cottage property” – River’s Edge Resort, located on the southern bank of the Chena River. It wasn’t a resort, but the one-bedroom cottages we stayed in – we each had our own – were clean, comfortable, and quiet.
After I showered and dressed, I went to Miner’s Hall Café for breakfast. Located onsite in the main building, the café offered a cold and hot buffet. I opted for ‘hot’ – eggs, potatoes, sausage, and toast, which I washed down with a glass of cranberry juice and two cups of coffee. The food was good – actually, it was better than most of the breakfast buffets where Jill and I ate earlier in our trip.
Jill called as I took the last sip of coffee.
“Good timing,” I said. “I just finished breakfast at the cafe. How are you feeling?”
“About the same,” she replied. “Stuffy nose, sore throat, fever. But I’m not too sick to eat, so I’ll see you in a few minutes.”
I sat with Jill while she tucked away her breakfast, and when she was finished, we headed to our respective cottages.
“Have fun!” she said as we parted company.
“Thank you, and feel better,” I replied. “I’ll call later.”
Every placed I’ve travelled to – towns, cities, countries – had nicknames: Peace Garden State (North Dakota), Island of the Winds (Mykonos), and Alamo City (San Antonio), to name a few.
Fairbanks – Alaska’s second largest city (pop. 33.000) – had a nickname, too: The Golden Heart City. The city’s gold mining legacy put the ‘Golden’ in its nickname, while its central location made Fairbanks the ‘Heart’ of Alaska.
Gold is Discovered
|
Gold fever struck in 1902 when word of gold in the creeks around Fairbanks started a stampede. Gold-seekers poured in and hastily put-up homes and businesses. It was the first explosion in a long history of booms and busts.
By 1905, gold production had risen to $6,000,000 a year. In 1908 there were 18,500 people in the Fairbanks mining district. The gold rush came to an end in 1911, and by 1920, the town’s population had shrunk to 1,100. |
~ fairbanks-alaska.com
When I read this blurb, I thought, $6 million doesn’t sound like much. But when I Googled the ‘equivalent value’ for 2022, I was shocked: It was almost $200 million. Yowza!!
I reached Gold Dredge 8, located off Old Steese Highway north of Fairbanks, at half past nine. This excursion began at ten, which gave me almost 30 minutes to explore a section of the 800-mile Trans-Alaska Pipeline System that crossed this property as it made its way from Prudhoe Bay in the north to the city of Valdez in the south.
Nearby were a series of storyboards that told the history of the pipeline.
|
Oil was discovered at Prudhoe Bay in 1968. A consortium of oil companies established Alyeska Pipeline Service Company in 1970 to design, construct, operate, and maintain a pipeline to transport the crude oil south to a navigable port.
In some areas, the pipeline – 48 inches in diameter – was insulated and elevated above ground, while in other areas the pipeline was insulated and buried below ground. The pipeline, which cost $8 billion to build, began moving oil in 1977. Throughput peaked in 1988, when 2,000,000 barrels of oil per day traveled through the pipeline – a journey of 4.5 days from Prudhoe Bay to Valdez. The yield slowed over the decades, and in 2010, only 620,000 barrels of oil per day traveled through the pipeline. |
|
As I read, I heard someone announce, “Gather round.” It was our guide, whose name was Tim.
Tim talked about the history of the pipeline. Been there, done that, I thought – but I paid attention in case there was a nugget of new information. And there was.
Tim said, “Nineteen billion barrels of oil passed through this pipeline since 1977, and the throughput in August was 473,000 barrels per day.”
Nineteen billion barrels was a drop in the bucket compared to our (U.S.) daily consumption of oil. Still, those barrels (and ongoing production, as there was still plenty of oil in the Prudhoe Bay oil field) sure helped towards our goal of energy independence.
I loved to learn things as I traveled. I sure got a great lesson THAT day!
Tim talked about the history of the pipeline. Been there, done that, I thought – but I paid attention in case there was a nugget of new information. And there was.
Tim said, “Nineteen billion barrels of oil passed through this pipeline since 1977, and the throughput in August was 473,000 barrels per day.”
Nineteen billion barrels was a drop in the bucket compared to our (U.S.) daily consumption of oil. Still, those barrels (and ongoing production, as there was still plenty of oil in the Prudhoe Bay oil field) sure helped towards our goal of energy independence.
I loved to learn things as I traveled. I sure got a great lesson THAT day!
|
Tim led us on a short walk to a depot where we boarded a replica of the Tanana Valley Railroad for a narrated journey to the dredge. I tapped the screen on my phone to open ColorNotes, ready to jot down tidbits of information as Tim talked.
|
|
“The original railroad, a narrow gauge system, was completed in 1905,” Tim began as the train moved forward. “It operated until 1917, and during its 12-year life, the Tanana Valley Railroad served more than two dozen gold camps that were scattered throughout the interior of Alaska.”
The train stopped in front of Gold Dredge 8, which came online in 1928.
The train stopped in front of Gold Dredge 8, which came online in 1928.
Tim continued his story. “A dredge is a mining machine, with a ship-like steel hull, that used a bucket-line to extract gold from the gravel in the banks and beds of streams and rivers. Each bucket – Gold Dredge 8 had 64 – could scoop up to 1,500 pounds of material, which was dumped in a hopper inside the power house.”
I spotted the bucket-line for Gold Dredge 8, which sat at an upward sloping angle to the right of the power house. From where I sat on the train, the buckets looked rust-covered…but then, they were more than 100 years old.
I spotted the bucket-line for Gold Dredge 8, which sat at an upward sloping angle to the right of the power house. From where I sat on the train, the buckets looked rust-covered…but then, they were more than 100 years old.
|
“After the material was dumped in the hopper,” said Tim, “it passed through a trommel that slowly spun and blasted the gravel with high-pressure water. This process separated the gold, which was trapped in sluice boxes, from the tailings – gravel, rocks, and other debris – that were conveyed out at the rear of the power house.”
|
|
Quite the operation, I thought.
|
Tim ended his story with, “Gold Dredge 8, which operated from 1928 to 1959, exctracted 7.5 million ounces of gold.”
Later, I did the math: The average price of gold was about $35 per ounce during that time, so the value of 7.5 million ounces was…more than $250 million! |
|
With that, the train lurched forward toward the Mining Museum, which was “packed with history and artifacts from the early 1900s.” And, as I soon discovered, there was also a LARGE gift store, with a potpourri of merchandise that included jewelry, apparel and canned salmon.
Let me count the ways, I thought, to separate me from my money!
But first…
Let me count the ways, I thought, to separate me from my money!
But first…
|
As we left the train, each passenger was given a poke sack of pay dirt – a ‘guaranteed nugget of gold in every bag’ - and directed to an area with benches and troughs of water where ‘Alaskan miners,’ aka members of the staff, demonstrated how to pan for gold. Ahh…a hands-on activity.
Panning – the process of gently washing material in a pan with a swirling motion – was the simplest and least expensive method that prospectors used to separate gold from waste.
|
|
Well, it didn’t take me long to find tiny pieces of the shiny stuff, which I took inside to have assayed. The value? A couple of dollars. The game? Get me to purchase a pair of earrings or an amulet to display my specks of gold in. The price? More than I wanted to spend on a kitschy piece of jewelry for my wife.
|
Instead, I put my gold – not quite a nugget, right?! – in a small film canister, which I gave to Debra when I got home. (“Hon, I brought some gold from Alaska for you,” I teased. And after I recounted my story, we both had a good laugh!)
We reboarded the train at noon, and soon I was in my car and on my way to River’s Edge. I called Jill to ask what she would like for lunch.
“Soup, an apple, and two bottles of Gatorade.”
“I’ll leave your lunch in a bag outside your door, and will knock when I do. By the way, I learned a lot about gold mining and the Trans-Alaska pipeline, which was fun for me, but I don’t think this excursion was your cup of tea.”
I shared the highlights with her.
“It sounds like our trip to the Buffalo Museum in Jamestown. You loved it, I didn’t.”
I chuckled…because Jill was absolutely right!
My afternoon excursion at Running Reindeer Ranch started at two, which left little time to eat the sandwich I bought for lunch.
(I managed.)
We reboarded the train at noon, and soon I was in my car and on my way to River’s Edge. I called Jill to ask what she would like for lunch.
“Soup, an apple, and two bottles of Gatorade.”
“I’ll leave your lunch in a bag outside your door, and will knock when I do. By the way, I learned a lot about gold mining and the Trans-Alaska pipeline, which was fun for me, but I don’t think this excursion was your cup of tea.”
I shared the highlights with her.
“It sounds like our trip to the Buffalo Museum in Jamestown. You loved it, I didn’t.”
I chuckled…because Jill was absolutely right!
My afternoon excursion at Running Reindeer Ranch started at two, which left little time to eat the sandwich I bought for lunch.
(I managed.)
Walk With Reindeer
|
Come walk with our reindeer herd and experience the boreal forest through their eyes. Our ranch, an award-winning, family-owned business, is nestled in the historic Goldstream Valley north of Fairbanks. Our reindeer family is friendly, fun, and full of character.
~ Running Reindeer Ranch
|
It was one thing to feed a few reindeer inside their pen as I did yesterday…and quite another to walk alongside a herd – a dozen reindeer! – in their natural habitat. But before we walked…
We met Jesse, one of several ‘handlers.’ It was his job to tell us the story of Running Reindeer Ranch and introduce us to the reindeer. When he finished, there was no doubt in my mind: Jesse was a practiced storyteller – a great communicator who shared his knowledge and experience in an engaging way.
I opened the ColorNote app on my phone, and my fingers flew across the keyboard as he talked. There was more to the story than what I’ve written below, but this was the gist of what Jesse said:
I opened the ColorNote app on my phone, and my fingers flew across the keyboard as he talked. There was more to the story than what I’ve written below, but this was the gist of what Jesse said:
|
“It all began when the owner’s daughter, Robin, who was then 12, asked if she could have a horse. For practical reasons, her mom, Jane, said “no.” Robin persisted. “A goat?” “No.” “A sheep?” “No.” And that was when Jane suggested an animal better suited to Alaska – a reindeer.
“They visited the Reindeer Research Project at the University of Alaska–Fairbanks, and that was the seed that became Running Reindeer Ranch. “The first two reindeer – Ruby and Moon – arrived in 2007. Others followed, until the herd – the family – grew to more than two dozen reindeer, including Bramble, Forest, and Heather, who were born in 2020.” |
|
Imagine that, I thought. What truly started as a ‘pet’ project for Robin became a successful family-owned and operated business.
|
Jesse then shared fascinating facts about reindeer, including:
|
And then, with a whistle, Jesse called the herd, which bounded into the field where we sat. Check out the reindeer in the pic at the right – that’s Toby –, who seemed to be as curious about us as we were about him. He was a BIG boy!
|
|
“Jesse,” I said as I pointed to a nearby reindeer. “I see blood on its antlers. What’s that about?”
“Good question,” he replied. “He is shedding a thin layer of skin – a natural process that happens when the antlers harden. The skin has blood vessels that carry oxygen and nutrients to help the antlers grow. So, yes, there is some bleeding when this skin is shed.”
“By the way,” he continued, “the skin on the antlers is called velvet because it has a soft, velvety appearance.”
“Good question,” he replied. “He is shedding a thin layer of skin – a natural process that happens when the antlers harden. The skin has blood vessels that carry oxygen and nutrients to help the antlers grow. So, yes, there is some bleeding when this skin is shed.”
“By the way,” he continued, “the skin on the antlers is called velvet because it has a soft, velvety appearance.”
|
Reindeer and humans mingled awhile – the better to acclimate the two species of animals – and then set out, side-by-side, on a walk through a forest of white spruce and birch.
|
A few hundred feet up the trail, we stopped for an audio demonstration.
Up on the housetop, click, click, click
Down through the chimney with the good St. Nick.
Down through the chimney with the good St. Nick.
|
As the handler walked this reindeer past a line of guests, she said, “Listen.” We did, and what we heard was a distinctive ‘click, click, click.’
“That noise,” she said, “is made when tendons snap over the bones in a reindeer’s feet. Does anyone know why this might be important?” No takers, so she answered, “Experts believe this sound helps members of a herd stay in contact with one another during a snow storm.” |
|
Yep – Reindeer were awesome creatures!
A few reindeer seemed happy to walk alongside the guests, but most explored the woods on their own, which kept the handlers busy.
Like herding cats, I mused.
A few reindeer seemed happy to walk alongside the guests, but most explored the woods on their own, which kept the handlers busy.
Like herding cats, I mused.
|
|
We stopped again a bit higher on the trail.
“Who would like to have their picture taken with Toby?” asked one of the handlers.
“I do, I do!” we all called out.
Somewhere I read – or perhaps Jesse told us – that the antlers of a male reindeer can be up to 51 inches long and 39 inches wide. I think that Jesse’s rack – his set of antlers – fell a bit short of these measurements, but it was impressive nonetheless! By the way, you can see blood at the top of his antler on the left – a sure sign he had begun to shed his ‘velvet.’
“Who would like to have their picture taken with Toby?” asked one of the handlers.
“I do, I do!” we all called out.
Somewhere I read – or perhaps Jesse told us – that the antlers of a male reindeer can be up to 51 inches long and 39 inches wide. I think that Jesse’s rack – his set of antlers – fell a bit short of these measurements, but it was impressive nonetheless! By the way, you can see blood at the top of his antler on the left – a sure sign he had begun to shed his ‘velvet.’
Our walk with the reindeer ended with cookies and hot chocolate – a nice touch on a somewhat cold day.
I LOVED this outing! The handlers were well-informed (and therefore, so were we) and caring. The setting – especially with the fall colors – was beautiful. And the reindeer…well, they were gentle, friendly, graceful, and fun to be around. This was the perfect Alaska adventure.
I checked my watch when I reached the car. Four-thirty. I betcha Jill is hungry, I thought, so I called her.
“Well, hon, how are you feeling?”
“The same, and it hurts to talk.”
“I’ll talk, you listen,” I said.
As I drove, I told Jill about my afternoon with the reindeer – the short version of what I’ve shared with you. Then I asked, “What would you like for dinner?”
“The same as I had for lunch – soup, an apple, and gatorade. By the way – you’re on your own tomorrow. Enjoy your trip to the Arctic Circle. The info will be in a bag on the door to my cottage.”
“Ok, and thanks. I’ll leave the food at your door, and will knock when I do.”
For dinner, I had a cup of chicken noodle soup, turkey and swiss cheese sandwich, bag of chips, and slice of apple pie. When I finished, I called Debra to fill her in on my day, and then caught up on the day’s news and read more of The Hollows. And by nine-thirty, I was asleep. After all, tomorrow is a BIG day!
I look forward to sharing my experience with you in my next story.
I LOVED this outing! The handlers were well-informed (and therefore, so were we) and caring. The setting – especially with the fall colors – was beautiful. And the reindeer…well, they were gentle, friendly, graceful, and fun to be around. This was the perfect Alaska adventure.
I checked my watch when I reached the car. Four-thirty. I betcha Jill is hungry, I thought, so I called her.
“Well, hon, how are you feeling?”
“The same, and it hurts to talk.”
“I’ll talk, you listen,” I said.
As I drove, I told Jill about my afternoon with the reindeer – the short version of what I’ve shared with you. Then I asked, “What would you like for dinner?”
“The same as I had for lunch – soup, an apple, and gatorade. By the way – you’re on your own tomorrow. Enjoy your trip to the Arctic Circle. The info will be in a bag on the door to my cottage.”
“Ok, and thanks. I’ll leave the food at your door, and will knock when I do.”
For dinner, I had a cup of chicken noodle soup, turkey and swiss cheese sandwich, bag of chips, and slice of apple pie. When I finished, I called Debra to fill her in on my day, and then caught up on the day’s news and read more of The Hollows. And by nine-thirty, I was asleep. After all, tomorrow is a BIG day!
I look forward to sharing my experience with you in my next story.