In March 2019, daughter Jill and I went on a ten-day tour of Ireland – three days in Dublin on our own and seven days on a guided tour of the Emerald Isle with CIE Tours International. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this unforgettable tour.
In this story, which is part of a series, I have written about our fascinating tour of Derry.
In this story, which is part of a series, I have written about our fascinating tour of Derry.
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Derry, Northern Ireland (Monday, March 18, 2019) This was a day of wonder, filled with curiosity, surprise, and awe, as we traveled from Galway to Derry! We toured a pilgrimage village in Knock, visited a sheepdog farm in Streedagh, and wandered a charming town in County Donegal – a full day of sightseeing, to be sure.
“But wait, there’s more!”, bellowed pitchman Billy May in his famous infomercials. |
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And so there was, as we ended our day with an eye-opening tour of Derry, a city steeped in history and rich in culture.
It was a one-hour drive from Galway to Derry, and it drizzled much of the way. The color of the sky varied only in shades of gray. Between the towns of Lifford in the Republic of Ireland and Strabane in Northern Ireland, we crossed the border that separated the two Irelands – the former an independent country and the latter a constituent country of the United Kingdom. No sign, no guard, no nothing…only an announcement from Bryan, our driver and tour guide, as we drove across the River Foyle.
It was a one-hour drive from Galway to Derry, and it drizzled much of the way. The color of the sky varied only in shades of gray. Between the towns of Lifford in the Republic of Ireland and Strabane in Northern Ireland, we crossed the border that separated the two Irelands – the former an independent country and the latter a constituent country of the United Kingdom. No sign, no guard, no nothing…only an announcement from Bryan, our driver and tour guide, as we drove across the River Foyle.
We reached Derry, the second most populace city in Northern Ireland (pop. 108,000), late afternoon. The good news was...no rain. WOO HOO!
Bryan pulled up to the Everglades, our hotel for the night. The name, I thought, sounded more “Florida-ish” than Irish, and I soon learned why: A pamphlet at the front desk said, “Built on marshy land, the hotel was named the Everglades – a direct nod to the Everglades in Florida.” Well, of all things.
It was drop and go – Jill and I wheeled our suitcases to our room and quickly reboarded the bus for a narrated tour of Derry with Charlene, a “step-on” guide from a local tour company. She was a fount of knowledge, and as we drove to the first attraction, we learned the history of the city’s name.
Bryan pulled up to the Everglades, our hotel for the night. The name, I thought, sounded more “Florida-ish” than Irish, and I soon learned why: A pamphlet at the front desk said, “Built on marshy land, the hotel was named the Everglades – a direct nod to the Everglades in Florida.” Well, of all things.
It was drop and go – Jill and I wheeled our suitcases to our room and quickly reboarded the bus for a narrated tour of Derry with Charlene, a “step-on” guide from a local tour company. She was a fount of knowledge, and as we drove to the first attraction, we learned the history of the city’s name.
Derry, By Any Other Name
“There is trace evidence that early humans lived in the vicinity of Derry for thousands of years,” Charlene began, “which would make Derry one of the longest continuously inhabited places in Ireland.”
The first historical reference to Derry, was in the 6th century, when St. Columba, an Irish abbot and missionary, founded a monastic settlement named Doire Calgach, or the “Oakwood of Calgach” – a nod to the nearby oak grove, a sacred place for the Celtic people, and a tribute to the ancient Caledonian warrior Calgach, who claimed this area to be his.
During the late Middle Ages, the monastic settlement gave way to a town, which was renamed Derrie – a name that was later modernized as Derry.
But the story did not end there.
“There is trace evidence that early humans lived in the vicinity of Derry for thousands of years,” Charlene began, “which would make Derry one of the longest continuously inhabited places in Ireland.”
The first historical reference to Derry, was in the 6th century, when St. Columba, an Irish abbot and missionary, founded a monastic settlement named Doire Calgach, or the “Oakwood of Calgach” – a nod to the nearby oak grove, a sacred place for the Celtic people, and a tribute to the ancient Caledonian warrior Calgach, who claimed this area to be his.
During the late Middle Ages, the monastic settlement gave way to a town, which was renamed Derrie – a name that was later modernized as Derry.
But the story did not end there.
…that the said city or town of Derry, forever hereafter be and
shall be named and called the city of Londonderry.
~ Royal Charter of 1613
shall be named and called the city of Londonderry.
~ Royal Charter of 1613
“With financial support from London investors,” Charlene explained, “Derry morphed from town to walled city in the 17th century and was renamed Londonderry, which is still the official name of this city.”
‘Official’, yes, but not the end of the naming story.
“Nationalists, who prefer self-determination for Northern Ireland,” said Charlene, “refused to recognize the name Londonderry, which was the name that Unionists preferred, and continued to call this city Derry.”
Got it? Whew!
‘Official’, yes, but not the end of the naming story.
“Nationalists, who prefer self-determination for Northern Ireland,” said Charlene, “refused to recognize the name Londonderry, which was the name that Unionists preferred, and continued to call this city Derry.”
Got it? Whew!
The Maiden City
Under the Royal Charter of 1613, Derry became the first planned city in Ireland. The central portion, which was enclosed by tall stone walls that varied in width between 12 and 35 feet, was diamond-shaped with a grid street pattern. The four main roads – Bishop, Butcher, Ferryquay, and Shipquay – radiated from the center to four gates with identical names. There was room for 200 houses that would accommodate 1,000 merchants, tradesmen, farmers, and their families.
Under the Royal Charter of 1613, Derry became the first planned city in Ireland. The central portion, which was enclosed by tall stone walls that varied in width between 12 and 35 feet, was diamond-shaped with a grid street pattern. The four main roads – Bishop, Butcher, Ferryquay, and Shipquay – radiated from the center to four gates with identical names. There was room for 200 houses that would accommodate 1,000 merchants, tradesmen, farmers, and their families.
The modern city of Derry, which grew beyond the city walls over the years, preserved this 17th-century layout within the walls.
Despite numerous attacks and a siege that lasted 105 days, the walls of Derry
were never breached – leading to its reputation as 'the maiden city.'
~ Gareth Johnson (2013)
were never breached – leading to its reputation as 'the maiden city.'
~ Gareth Johnson (2013)
As our bus neared the walled city, Charlene told us, “The walls that surrounded Derry, which were completed in 1619, were built for defensive purposes – protection against potential aggressors. While Derry was not the first walled city in Ireland, it was the last, and it is the only remaining completely intact walled city on the Emerald Isle.”
The durability and strength of the walls was tested three times in the 17th century, and none more so than during the Siege of Derry in 1689, when James II, the deposed King of England and Ireland, led an Irish army to regain control of the city. This was the first major event in the Williamite War, which pitted the deposed King against his successor, William III.
“Like the chastity belt worn by maidens in the Middle Ages,” Charlene assured us with a wink of her eye, “the walls were never breached – the city’s “virtue” was protected! – and the siege failed.”
I enjoyed this story but LOVED what came next: Charlene led us on a 30-minute walking tour of a section of the wall and walled city!
The durability and strength of the walls was tested three times in the 17th century, and none more so than during the Siege of Derry in 1689, when James II, the deposed King of England and Ireland, led an Irish army to regain control of the city. This was the first major event in the Williamite War, which pitted the deposed King against his successor, William III.
“Like the chastity belt worn by maidens in the Middle Ages,” Charlene assured us with a wink of her eye, “the walls were never breached – the city’s “virtue” was protected! – and the siege failed.”
I enjoyed this story but LOVED what came next: Charlene led us on a 30-minute walking tour of a section of the wall and walled city!
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She kicked off our tour near Bishop’s Gate, which was built in the center of the southwest wall. “This gate,” she noted, “was where King James II demanded entry during the Siege of 1689. He was greeted by a cry of ‘No Surrender!’”
I took this photo from inside the walls. The main passage through the gate was a narrow, rounded archway, adorned with the carved head of a river god crowned with a laurel wreath. Hmmm, I thought, this opening would not have stopped me from entering the city. |
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As if she read my mind, Charlene remarked, “The four original gates, which had sturdy doors, were rebuilt and replaced with ornamental arches in the 18th century.”
Ahhh…
Ahhh…
Charlene led us up a stone stairway, where we set out on a scenic, albeit short, walk atop the city walls – a unique promenade, to be sure. Within a few paces, we reached the southwest corner, where we stood on a large fortification that projected out of the walls in two directions.
“This is the Double Bastion,” Charlene noted, “perhaps the most famous of the of eight surviving ramparts.” She continued, “The two cannons you see, which were fully restored in 2005, date to the 17th century.”
“This is the Double Bastion,” Charlene noted, “perhaps the most famous of the of eight surviving ramparts.” She continued, “The two cannons you see, which were fully restored in 2005, date to the 17th century.”
One of the cannons (at the right in photo above) was the impressive Roaring Meg, famous for “the loudness of her voice” because the shot, which weighed 19 pounds, roared when it was fired!
From the Double Bastion, we walked along the tree-lined Grand Parade. “These sycamores,” Charlene explained, “were planted to commemorate the 13 apprentices who closed the gates on King James’ soldiers.”
Next, we stopped at the Royal Bastion, so named during the Siege of 1689 “because the crimson flag was flown from it.” The Royal Bastion was also the sight of a memorial that honored Reverend George Walker, the co-Governor of Derry during the Siege.
Next, we stopped at the Royal Bastion, so named during the Siege of 1689 “because the crimson flag was flown from it.” The Royal Bastion was also the sight of a memorial that honored Reverend George Walker, the co-Governor of Derry during the Siege.
“We are standing in front of the base of a monument that was erected in 1828,” said Charlene. “The monument was over 100 feet tall – a nine-foot statue of Reverend Walker supported by a 96-foot-tall pillar.”
“The base?” I asked.
“The pillar” replied Charlene, “was blown up by Nationalists in 1972 as an act of defiance.”
It was no wonder, then, that the base was protected by metal fencing!
“The base?” I asked.
“The pillar” replied Charlene, “was blown up by Nationalists in 1972 as an act of defiance.”
It was no wonder, then, that the base was protected by metal fencing!
We crossed The Platform, a long battlement with several cannons, and descended a stone staircase into the walled city to visit two landmarks.
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The first landmark we came to was St. Augustine’s Church, which was built in 1872. “This is one of two locations in Derry,” remarked Charlene, “thought to be the site of St. Columba’s monastery.” The church was built of whinstone – a hard dark-colored rock – and consecrated in 1872. We had a few minutes to wander the grounds, and I headed straight to the cemetery, which predated the church. There I found a burial plot that held the remains of Robert Carrec, an Elizabethan soldier who died in 1609!
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The second landmark was the Apprentice Boy’s Memorial Hall. Charlene commented, “This neo-Gothic building, which opened in 1877, was dedicated to the memory of the 13 apprentices who closed the city’s gates during the Siege. It now serves as a museum and home for the Apprentice Boys of Derry and other clubs.” From this perspective, the Memorial Hall looked a bit like Hogwarts Castle (from Harry Potter) to me.
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I asked Charlene about a building I spotted as we walked back to the bus. “That is the Bishop Street Courthouse,” replied Charlene. “It was designed by Dublin-born architect John Bowden. Ironically, it was completed in 1822, the year in which he died.”
She went on to say, “This past January, the Courthouse was bombed by a member of a dissident group that continued to oppose the ceasefire that ended “the Troubles.” What a great segue to the second part of our tour I thought as we reboarded the bus. |
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Powerful Murals
In recent times, Derry's international reputation has been defined
by the sectarian conflict known as 'The Troubles'. It was here in
this city that civil rights marches escalated into the street battles
of the Bogside and the Bloody Sunday shootings.
~ Gareth Johnson (2013)
by the sectarian conflict known as 'The Troubles'. It was here in
this city that civil rights marches escalated into the street battles
of the Bogside and the Bloody Sunday shootings.
~ Gareth Johnson (2013)
“How many remember the U2 song Sunday Bloody Sunday?” Charlene asked.
Jill and I raised our hands, as did many of our fellow travelers.
“Well,” Charlene continued, “that 1983 song was about the Troubles in Northern Ireland, including an incident that took place in the Bogside neighborhood of Derry on January 30, 1972.”
The Troubles, I knew, was an almost 30-year period (late 1960s to late 1990s) of civil rights protests and sectarian violence that pitted Nationalists against Unionists. The fNationalists wished to form a united Ireland while the Unionists wanted Northern Ireland to remain in the United Kingdom. As we made our way to Bogside, located outside the city walls of old Derry, Charlene sketched out the story of January 30, 1972 – a day that became known in Ireland and around the world as Bloody Sunday.
Jill and I raised our hands, as did many of our fellow travelers.
“Well,” Charlene continued, “that 1983 song was about the Troubles in Northern Ireland, including an incident that took place in the Bogside neighborhood of Derry on January 30, 1972.”
The Troubles, I knew, was an almost 30-year period (late 1960s to late 1990s) of civil rights protests and sectarian violence that pitted Nationalists against Unionists. The fNationalists wished to form a united Ireland while the Unionists wanted Northern Ireland to remain in the United Kingdom. As we made our way to Bogside, located outside the city walls of old Derry, Charlene sketched out the story of January 30, 1972 – a day that became known in Ireland and around the world as Bloody Sunday.
“It started as a peaceful demonstration in the Bogside area of Derry,” Charlene said. “More than 10,000 marchers set off mid-afternoon to protest the mass arrests and imprisonment without trial of people suspected of being involved with the Irish Republican Army.”
“The British Army blocked the marchers’ path with barriers,” she continued. “Soon, small skirmishes broke out between the marchers and soldiers, and before long the soldiers fired indiscriminately into the crowd.”
“The British Army blocked the marchers’ path with barriers,” she continued. “Soon, small skirmishes broke out between the marchers and soldiers, and before long the soldiers fired indiscriminately into the crowd.”
“Twenty-six people were shot, and thirteen died that day,” remarked Charlene. “This incident fueled hostilities on both sides and increased support for the IRA.”
Bloody Sunday was perhaps the most consequential event of the Troubles.
Our drive-through tour of Bogside started at “Free Derry Corner.”
Bloody Sunday was perhaps the most consequential event of the Troubles.
Our drive-through tour of Bogside started at “Free Derry Corner.”
We were metaphorically sticking two fingers up at them (the police), saying:
‘You are not coming into our territory and beating us up whenever you feel like it.’
~ Liam Hillen (2009)
‘You are not coming into our territory and beating us up whenever you feel like it.’
~ Liam Hillen (2009)
Hillen was a Nationalist teenager from Bogside. In January 1969, he scrawled these six words on the gabled end of a house that sat at the corner of Lecky Road and Fahan Street: YOU ARE NOW ENTERING FREE DERRY. This still-present symbol of resistance, since repainted, served as a stark reminder of past, as well as present, struggles.
“The mural you see across the street,” remarked Charlene, “is one of twelve large-scale murals painted by The Bogside Artists, a trio of artists born and raised in Bogside, to commemorate key moments during the Troubles.”
This collection of murals, which were painted on buildings along Rossville Street between 1994 and 2004, became known as The People’s Gallery.
“The mural you see across the street,” remarked Charlene, “is one of twelve large-scale murals painted by The Bogside Artists, a trio of artists born and raised in Bogside, to commemorate key moments during the Troubles.”
This collection of murals, which were painted on buildings along Rossville Street between 1994 and 2004, became known as The People’s Gallery.
What confers a unique provenance on our work is the fact that we,
both as artists and as citizens, are part of the story we feel obligated
to tell. The story of the Bogside is our story and vice versa. Hence our
sympathies are with all of the people who have suffered in Northern
Ireland whatever their class, creed, politics or belief systems.
~ The Bogside Artists
both as artists and as citizens, are part of the story we feel obligated
to tell. The story of the Bogside is our story and vice versa. Hence our
sympathies are with all of the people who have suffered in Northern
Ireland whatever their class, creed, politics or belief systems.
~ The Bogside Artists
Each mural, including the four that follow, represented an important story within the larger story of the Troubles.
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Bernadette (1996) featured social activist Bernadette McAliskey as she addressed a crowd. McAliskey, who was a member of Parliament, was arrested for initiating a riot. She was convicted and served a short jail term.
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Death of Innocence (1999), often described as “the most moving image,” depicted Annette McGavigan, a 14-year-old girl who was killed by a British soldier in 1971 while she stood at the side of the road. The mural was painted near the site where she died.
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The Petrol Bomber (1994), said to be one of the most photographed murals in the world, portrayed a young boy wearing a gas mask to protect himself as he is about to throw a petrol bomb.
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Bloody Sunday (1997) recounted a group of men, led by a local Catholic priest, as they carried a dying teenager, Jack Duddy, through the streets of Derry. The subsequent inquiry, known as the Saville Report, concluded that Duddy was not armed and was shot as he ran away from the soldiers.
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Called “the most prominent political murals in the world,” The People’s Gallery – history through art – provided a thought-provoking glimpse and compelling reminder of the terrible impact that this sectarian struggle had on both sides of the conflict.
Our tour – a “taste of Derry’ – ended all too soon. But with limited time, I felt we saw the most important attractions the city offered – its ancient walls and poignant murals. And with Charlene’s help, I had a deeper understanding of Derry’s fascinating and colorful history!
Our tour – a “taste of Derry’ – ended all too soon. But with limited time, I felt we saw the most important attractions the city offered – its ancient walls and poignant murals. And with Charlene’s help, I had a deeper understanding of Derry’s fascinating and colorful history!
The Quiet Man
Bryan dropped us at the hotel, where we said ‘thank you and good-bye’ to Charlene.
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It was time to unwind after a full day of sightseeing. Jill and I moseyed up to the bar, where we ordered the hotel’s specialty cocktail – a whiskey sour made with locally distilled Quiet Man whiskey. Oh so refreshing!
“Quiet Man,” by the way, should ring a bell for folks of a certain age, as it was the name of a 1952 movie that was set in Ireland and starred Maureen O'Hara and John Wayne. Debra (my wife) and I watched this movie last month – part of my research for this trip (wink, wink!). To tell you the truth, we thought the movie was hokey. But what did we know, as The Quiet Man won Academy Awards for best director and best cinematography. We loved the scenery, though, as much of the movie was shot on location in Ireland. |
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Jill and I joined our fellow travelers for dinner in the Grill Restaurant. I ordered Hannan's Glenarm Daube of Beef for my dinner entrée – Hannan was the farmer, Glenarm the village his farm was in, and Daube the cut, in this case, a cut of braised beef – and a lemon tart for dessert. It was a great meal, and the perfect end to a wonderful day.
Tomorrow – the last full day of our tour – we will travel from Derry to Dublin, with stops at Giant’s Causeway, Belfast, and Annagassan. Click here to read my travel blog.
Tomorrow – the last full day of our tour – we will travel from Derry to Dublin, with stops at Giant’s Causeway, Belfast, and Annagassan. Click here to read my travel blog.