In March 2019, daughter Jill and I went on a ten-day tour of Ireland – three days in Dublin on our own and seven days on a guided tour of the Emerald Isle with CIE Tours International. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this unforgettable tour.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day of sightseeing from Derry to Dublin.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day of sightseeing from Derry to Dublin.
Derry, Northern Ireland (Tuesday, March 19, 2019) This was the last day of our guided tour, and what a day it was! Jill and I traveled south from Derry in Northern Ireland to Dublin in the Republic of Ireland, a distance of 175 miles that completed the circular route around Ireland we drove on our eight-day tour.
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This relatively short distance took us 14 hours to navigate. “Why did it take so long?” you ask. As has been our experience every day of the tour, this day was jam-packed with sightseeing stops along the way – Duncle Castle and Giant’s Causeway near Bushmills, Titanic Belfast and political murals in Belfast, and dinner and entertainment at the Glyde Inn in Annagassan. Every day of the tour was fun and interesting, and this day was no exception!
A Hearty Breakfast to Start the Day
“How would you like your porridge?” the waitress asked. “A fair question,” I thought. Luckily, I knew the right answer. “With a wee bit of Jameson Irish whiskey, thank you,” I replied.
Earlier on the tour, one of the hotels offered porridge with raisins soaked in Jameson. The Everglade Hotel in Derry, where we stayed last night, went one better: At breakfast this morning, our waitress pointed me to a kettle of porridge flanked by a bottle of Jameson. I scooped a ladle and a half of porridge into a bowl, mixed in some nuts and brown sugar, and added a generous portion of Jameson – less than would result in an overbearing taste but enough to know there was whisky in my porridge. Mmmm, mmmm good!
It was a cool 46 degrees and cloudy when we left Derry – just like the early morning weather we’ve experienced through this trip. Such was Ireland this time of year. But if not for the rain, the Emerald Isle would not be emerald, I guess!
“How would you like your porridge?” the waitress asked. “A fair question,” I thought. Luckily, I knew the right answer. “With a wee bit of Jameson Irish whiskey, thank you,” I replied.
Earlier on the tour, one of the hotels offered porridge with raisins soaked in Jameson. The Everglade Hotel in Derry, where we stayed last night, went one better: At breakfast this morning, our waitress pointed me to a kettle of porridge flanked by a bottle of Jameson. I scooped a ladle and a half of porridge into a bowl, mixed in some nuts and brown sugar, and added a generous portion of Jameson – less than would result in an overbearing taste but enough to know there was whisky in my porridge. Mmmm, mmmm good!
It was a cool 46 degrees and cloudy when we left Derry – just like the early morning weather we’ve experienced through this trip. Such was Ireland this time of year. But if not for the rain, the Emerald Isle would not be emerald, I guess!
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About an hour after we left, we stopped at the side of the road for a picturesque photo op. Below us, sitting atop a promontory along the coastal cliffs of Northern Ireland were the iconic ruins of Duncle Castle. This castle was built in the early 1500s by the MacQuillan clan. It was seized by their enemy, the MacDonnells, about 40 years later. Bryan, our tour guide and driver, told us to be alert, as there were reported sightings of the ghost of a MacQuillan or MacDonnell standing on the castle’s wall. Not this day, I am sorry to say.
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“Slainte!” to Sean Dillon
Many years ago, I was an avid reader of a series of “thriller” novels written by British author Jack Higgins, which featured a character by the name of Sean Dillon. Dillon was a former IRA enforcer turned British special agent. The novels were rousing tales in which the “good guys,” including Dillon, always came out on top. Dillon was a drinker and his drink of choice was Bushmills Irish whiskey. For a time, it was my drink of choice, too.
About five miles east of Duncle Castle, Bryan announced that we were in the town of Bushmills, where this Irish whiskey has been distilled since the late 1700s. We did not have time to stop at the distillery, but I did tip a virtual glass of Bushmills to Dillon and wished him “slainte!” (“good health” in Irish).
Many years ago, I was an avid reader of a series of “thriller” novels written by British author Jack Higgins, which featured a character by the name of Sean Dillon. Dillon was a former IRA enforcer turned British special agent. The novels were rousing tales in which the “good guys,” including Dillon, always came out on top. Dillon was a drinker and his drink of choice was Bushmills Irish whiskey. For a time, it was my drink of choice, too.
About five miles east of Duncle Castle, Bryan announced that we were in the town of Bushmills, where this Irish whiskey has been distilled since the late 1700s. We did not have time to stop at the distillery, but I did tip a virtual glass of Bushmills to Dillon and wished him “slainte!” (“good health” in Irish).
The Myth of Finn McCool
A few miles north of Bushmills, we stopped at Giant’s Causeway, with its enormous and near-perfect interlocking hexagonal columns made of basalt. We learned that there were more than 40,000 columns (and were left wondering whether someone actually counted them!).
A few miles north of Bushmills, we stopped at Giant’s Causeway, with its enormous and near-perfect interlocking hexagonal columns made of basalt. We learned that there were more than 40,000 columns (and were left wondering whether someone actually counted them!).
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As we exited the motor coach, Bryan told us that we had 90 minutes to wander Giant’s Causeway. It was ample time to see and experience this wonder of nature, which, according to scientists, was formed by volcanic activity 60 million years ago. Jill and I learned, though, that not everyone bought into this scientific explanation. There were many people, you see, who believed that the causeway was created when the mighty Irish giant Finn McCool grabbed chunks of the rocky coast and threw them into the sea. “Why would he do that?” you ask. To form a path across the sea to challenge the fearsome Scottish giant Benandonner, who had the audacity to claim Ireland for himself!
Volcanic activity. Giants doing battle. Science vs. myth. Hmmmm….
Volcanic activity. Giants doing battle. Science vs. myth. Hmmmm….
Jill and I boarded a tram at the visitor center, which we rode to the causeway. As we stepped onto the causeway, we saw that many of the columns were low and relatively easy to walk across. Some columns, though, were moist or moss-covered, especially as we neared the water’s edge, and most of the surface was uneven, so caution was the order of the day. Slowly, Jill and I made our way onto the causeway as we walked towards the edge of the seacoast.
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At the water’s edge, we turned back to enjoy a breathtaking view of Giant’s Causeway as it stretched towards the hills. We looked to our left across the beautiful bay, where we spotted the Organ Pipes formation on the side of a cliff – large basalt columns, taller in the middle than at the sides, evoking the image of the metal pipes of a church organ.
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Is Giant’s Causeway a wonder of nature created by volcanic activity or was it built by a giant? It really did not matter, as either way Giant’s Causeway was an awesome and imposing sight to behold!
My Heart Will Go On
So sang Celine Dion in the theme song to the epic film Titanic, the segue to our next stop – Titanic Belfast.
Belfast (pop. 334,000), the capital of Northern Ireland, was an hour’s drive south from Giant’s Causeway. The time passed quickly, as Bryan told us about the city and attractions we would see and regaled us with a few jokes and a couple of Irish folksongs. I picked up these tidbits about Belfast:
So sang Celine Dion in the theme song to the epic film Titanic, the segue to our next stop – Titanic Belfast.
Belfast (pop. 334,000), the capital of Northern Ireland, was an hour’s drive south from Giant’s Causeway. The time passed quickly, as Bryan told us about the city and attractions we would see and regaled us with a few jokes and a couple of Irish folksongs. I picked up these tidbits about Belfast:
- C.S. Lewis, author of The Chronicles of Narnia, was born in Belfast.
- Led Zeppelin debuted Stairway to Heaven at Ulster Hall in Belfast in 1971.
- Belfast has the world’s largest dry dock.
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Soon after we reached the city, Jill and I spotted a dramatic, multi-story building. This was Titanic Belfast. Clad in anodized aluminum, it jutted out at various angles – a unique design that brought to mind the bows of large ships. (Oh, I get it – like the Titanic!!) This design drew our eyes toward the top of the building, where we half-expected to see Leonardo DiCaprio holding Kate Winslet with her hands outstretched in the wind, just as they did in that memorable scene from the movie! (But as with the ghost of a MacQuillan or MacDonnell, perhaps on another day.)
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Titanic Belfast was erected on the site of the former Harland & Wolff shipyard, which was where the Titanic was built and launched on its maiden (and only) voyage in 1912. As an aside, we were in the village of Cobh (pronounced “cove”) earlier on our trip; it was the last port of call for the Titanic.
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There are nine galleries inside Titanic Belfast. A few tell the story of Belfast’s maritime history – the shipbuilders, shippers, and passengers – but most tell the story of the RMS Titanic. Jill and I wandered through the galleries, from one floor to another. We stopped at many (but not all) of the exhibits and read from the storyboards that interested us. From one storyboard we learned that it took 26 months to construct the hull of the Titanic. On another, we discovered that three million rivets were used to build the ship.
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Many of the exhibits were animated and/or interactive. Jill, for example, sent a message using Morse code at one exhibit. And there were several small-and full-scale reconstructions; our favorites were the first- and third-class cabins. The first-class cabins were splendiferous! Jill and I rode a car on rails that took us through parts of the Titanic so that we could see, from the inside, how the ship was built.
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A joint US-French expedition located the wreck of the Titanic in 1985, some 13,000 feet below the surface of the North Atlantic. Thousands of artifacts were recovered over the years, many of which were on display at Titan Belfast.
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Titanic Belfast did a great job telling the story of the city’s long maritime history and brief life of the RMS Titanic. Jill and I had a nice time, and we certainly learned more than we did watching the movie!
“The Troubles”
Belfast is famous for its political murals, a tradition since the early 1900s. The use of murals, though, got new life during the time of “the Troubles,” which was the name for the 30-year sectarian conflict in Northern Ireland (1968 – 1998). The murals served many purposes - make political points, set sectarian boundaries, commemorate historical events, and serve as memorials.
Belfast is famous for its political murals, a tradition since the early 1900s. The use of murals, though, got new life during the time of “the Troubles,” which was the name for the 30-year sectarian conflict in Northern Ireland (1968 – 1998). The murals served many purposes - make political points, set sectarian boundaries, commemorate historical events, and serve as memorials.
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Before we left Belfast, Bryan took us on a “drive-by” tour of many of the murals. Along the way, we stopped at a wall of Loyalist murals, where there was a mural with another tradition – anyone could write a message on this mural. Jill and I did. My message (bottom right photo) said, “We are more alike than different,” which summed up my view of the global community that I have experienced through my travels from country to country.
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I recalled hearing news about the sectarian fighting when I was younger, but that was a “virtual experience.” Being in Belfast and seeing the murals, a memorial, and evidence of still-divided neighborhoods brought that virtual experience to life. I was glad we had time to take this tour.
Finally...the 40 Shades of Green!
The clouds parted and the sun came out as we left Belfast. And as we drove into the countryside, we saw many of the “40 Shades of Green” that Johnny Cash wrote about while traveling through Ireland in 1959:
The clouds parted and the sun came out as we left Belfast. And as we drove into the countryside, we saw many of the “40 Shades of Green” that Johnny Cash wrote about while traveling through Ireland in 1959:
I close my eyes and picture the emerald of the sea
from the fishin’ boats at Dingle to the shores at Dunehea
I miss the River Shannon and the folks at Skibbereen
the moorlands and meadows and their Forty Shades of Green.
from the fishin’ boats at Dingle to the shores at Dunehea
I miss the River Shannon and the folks at Skibbereen
the moorlands and meadows and their Forty Shades of Green.
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Ahhh…my Irish eyes were smiling!
That’s Entertainment
We arrived at the family owned Glyde Inn for dinner and entertainment about an hour after we left Belfast. The inn, located in the town of Annagassan on the east coast of Ireland, dates to 1770. (Clearly, though, it was updated along the way!)
We arrived at the family owned Glyde Inn for dinner and entertainment about an hour after we left Belfast. The inn, located in the town of Annagassan on the east coast of Ireland, dates to 1770. (Clearly, though, it was updated along the way!)
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The Glyde Inn backs to the Irish Sea, and as soon as we stepped from the bar to the restaurant, Jill and I were out the back door to see the sea. The view was breathtaking: a sandy beach, tranquil water, multi-colored layered clouds on the horizon, and a blue sky. Picture-perfect!
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Bryan beckoned us to dinner. I had fish cakes for an appetizer, seafood chowder as my entrée, and a triplet-sampler for dessert. I “paired” my meal with a half-pint of regionally brewed Boyne beer. The food was delicious, and the beer quenched my thirst!
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Three local musicians set up as the plates were cleared. They played the guitar and a few traditional Irish instruments while they sang folk and other songs. Many of us joined in on the songs we knew, including Danny Boy, When Irish Eyes Are Smiling, and My Bonnie Lies Over the Ocean. Bryan, who had a good voice, joined the trio of musicians to sing a lilting Irish tune.
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One of the musicians demonstrated the Irish Jig and Irish Reel, and then asked, “Who would like to give it a try?” I declined to dance the jig but was pulled onto the dance floor for the reel. “When in Rome,” right? So, dance I did. (Was it the Boyne beer?!) Jill recorded me on her phone, and promptly posted the video on Facebook for all to see. Truth be told, it was a hoot!
Final Thoughts
We arrived in Dublin at 10 and checked into the Croke Park Hotel for our last night in Ireland. Jill and I will board a plane bound for Phoenix tomorrow morning, but this evening we reminisced about another magical day on our Irish Adventure, filled with many lasting memories. It was great “craic” (pronounced “crack,” an Irish term for fun)!
We arrived in Dublin at 10 and checked into the Croke Park Hotel for our last night in Ireland. Jill and I will board a plane bound for Phoenix tomorrow morning, but this evening we reminisced about another magical day on our Irish Adventure, filled with many lasting memories. It was great “craic” (pronounced “crack,” an Irish term for fun)!