In November/December 2023, Debra and I went on a 14-day cruise of the Western Caribbean on board the Regal Princess. We sailed round trip from Galveston, Texas, with port stops in Costa Maya, Belize City, Cozumel, and Roatan. Click HERE to read a short introduction.
This story, the fifth in a series, is about my second day in Costa Maya.
This story, the fifth in a series, is about my second day in Costa Maya.
Costa Maya, Mexico (December 7, 2023) We docked in Costa Maya at 8AM, and soon after I debarked from the Regal Princess to begin a half-day excursion—a tour of the remains of an ancient Maya settlement and lunch with locals, which I had looked forward to since I booked this outing several weeks back.
The dark clouds in the skies above the Regal, a sure sign of rain, were foreboding.
The dark clouds in the skies above the Regal, a sure sign of rain, were foreboding.
“Christopher Robin!” exclaimed Winnie the Pooh. “Will you kindly shake your umbrella and say ‘tut tut, it looks like rain!’?”
My thoughts, exactly, as I filled my backpack earlier that morning.
“Take your umbrella and jacket,” Debra murmured before she fell back asleep.
I did…but I never needed them, as the clouds parted and soon gave way to a mostly sunny blue sky throughout the day. While the temperature climbed into the mid-80s, the humidity was ‘only’ 74%—significantly lower than the day before in Roatan, Honduras--so all in all, it was a pretty comfortable day.
Puerto Costa Maya—the cruise port of Costa Maya—is on the east coast of the Yucatan Peninsula, about 40 miles north of Belize.
My thoughts, exactly, as I filled my backpack earlier that morning.
“Take your umbrella and jacket,” Debra murmured before she fell back asleep.
I did…but I never needed them, as the clouds parted and soon gave way to a mostly sunny blue sky throughout the day. While the temperature climbed into the mid-80s, the humidity was ‘only’ 74%—significantly lower than the day before in Roatan, Honduras--so all in all, it was a pretty comfortable day.
Puerto Costa Maya—the cruise port of Costa Maya—is on the east coast of the Yucatan Peninsula, about 40 miles north of Belize.
What’s in a Name?
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No one knows for certain the origin of the name ‘Yucatan,’ but one legend holds that the Spanish conquistador Francisco Hernandez de Cordova, who led an ill-fated expedition to the peninsula in 1517, thought the indigenous people said ‘Yucatan’ when he asked where he was…not realizing that in their native tongue, the words they used meant 'We don’t understand what you are saying.'
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I followed the T-shaped pier, which had room enough for four cruise ships—the Regal was the only ship docked early morning—past a very colorful mural painted on a sea wall to the staging area for excursions.
And as I waited—I arrived 15 minutes early—a troupe of locals dressed in Maya ceremonial clothes lured me onstage for a photo op.
And as I waited—I arrived 15 minutes early—a troupe of locals dressed in Maya ceremonial clothes lured me onstage for a photo op.
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I thought it was all great fun until the fellow on my left let out a blood-curdling yell as he pointed his spear at my throat! He let me go, though, after I promised to toss a couple bucks into his tip jar.
Got me, I thought as I got in line with other cruise ship passengers, ready to begin my Maya cultural experience. I did not wait long. |
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Gerardo, our guide, introduced himself and ushered us—perhaps 50 cruise ship guests—to a motorcoach for an hour-long drive northwest on two highways to the small town of Limones (pop. 2,800). The name of the town is the Spanish word for ‘limes,’ a local industry the Mexico government created years ago to help the people in this area make a living.
After a couple of zigs and zags on the town’s narrow streets, past what I can only describe as hovels, we stopped near a singular pyramid—a temple—the Maya ruins we came to see. If it had a name other than Limones Maya Ruins, I did not catch it.
As Maya ruins go, it wasn’t the best site to visit—no one would put this temple on a list of ‘must-see’ Maya ruins, anywhere ever—so I was glad I visited Chacchoben and Altun Ha during the first week of our cruise.
After a couple of zigs and zags on the town’s narrow streets, past what I can only describe as hovels, we stopped near a singular pyramid—a temple—the Maya ruins we came to see. If it had a name other than Limones Maya Ruins, I did not catch it.
As Maya ruins go, it wasn’t the best site to visit—no one would put this temple on a list of ‘must-see’ Maya ruins, anywhere ever—so I was glad I visited Chacchoben and Altun Ha during the first week of our cruise.
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We spent about 30 minutes at the site, where, for the most part, Gerardo shared information on Maya history and culture—with a lot of information about the famous Maya calendar. This was not dissimilar to what I heard at Chacchoben and Altun Ha, so I mostly wandered the site—it was not large—as he talked.
When I returned to where he stood, I heard him say, “It is believed that the Maya first occupied this area, which became an important trading center, around 1000BC. This pyramid, which has intricate carvings on its walls, was restored in 2000.” Try as I might that evening on board the Regal, where I had internet service, I could not find any historical information about the ruins. However, I read this blurb written by River Wilde below a short video she posted on YouTube: |
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The oldest portions of the structure visible have rounded corners and limestone plaster coating. The newer parts have square corners, less even building stones, and some of the original red.
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No one knows how many Maya temples there are on the Yucatan Peninsula (or across Mexico, for that matter), largely because most are still buried under mounds of dirt, waiting to be discovered and excavated by archaeologists. I read that each site excavated has “its own unique history and architecture.” If this is so, then the Limones Maya Ruins were truly singular, and a special site for me to see.
As I walked from the pyramid to the bus, I passed through a ramada where locals had set up tables to sell trinkets and other mementos. I had a look-see at the offerings but saw nothing of interest.
“We will now go to the home of a local Maya family," said Gerardo after everyone had reboarded the bus, “where you will learn about their traditional beliefs and customs, enjoy a freshly prepared lunch, and have a taste of tequila, if you’d like. We will be there in 10 minutes.”
At lunch, we sat at tables beneath umbrella-shaped thatched roofs made of dried palm leaves. Gerardo told us that this type of open-sided structures is a ‘palapa’—a Spanish word, not Mayan.
As I walked from the pyramid to the bus, I passed through a ramada where locals had set up tables to sell trinkets and other mementos. I had a look-see at the offerings but saw nothing of interest.
“We will now go to the home of a local Maya family," said Gerardo after everyone had reboarded the bus, “where you will learn about their traditional beliefs and customs, enjoy a freshly prepared lunch, and have a taste of tequila, if you’d like. We will be there in 10 minutes.”
At lunch, we sat at tables beneath umbrella-shaped thatched roofs made of dried palm leaves. Gerardo told us that this type of open-sided structures is a ‘palapa’—a Spanish word, not Mayan.
Do you know what el hombre de la casa—the man of the house—was doing in the photo above?
I’ll answer this question for you.
He was removing dirt from atop a pit in which he had cooked the chicken we had for lunch.
“This is a traditional way for Maya to cook chicken and other meats,” said Gerardo. “The chicken is marinated in an earth oven, which is then placed in the pit atop hot stones and covered with dirt. This is one of the simplest and most ancient cooking methods. Prepared this way, it takes several hours to cook the chicken.
I’ll answer this question for you.
He was removing dirt from atop a pit in which he had cooked the chicken we had for lunch.
“This is a traditional way for Maya to cook chicken and other meats,” said Gerardo. “The chicken is marinated in an earth oven, which is then placed in the pit atop hot stones and covered with dirt. This is one of the simplest and most ancient cooking methods. Prepared this way, it takes several hours to cook the chicken.
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“Maya called this dish Pollo Pibil. The chicken is very flavorful dish, and I guaranty you will love it!”
La senora de la casa—yep, the lady of the house—served the chicken on fajita tortillas, two to a guest…although anyone still hungry was invited to have seconds. I paired my meal with Montejo, an iconic Mexican beer that was a mouthful of refreshing tastes. The Pollo Pibil was flavorful, and I was hungry, so I had another fajita before I said, “No mas.” On the other hand, I had only a few sips of beer, so that I remained clear-headed for the tequila tasting. While I enjoyed the freshly prepared lunch, I learned little about traditional beliefs and customs from the family we visited, as they spoke little, if any, English. Still, it was fun to spend time at their homestead, which included several modest buildings and a fenced enclosure for turkeys and other animals. I found it to be small village charming. |
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In our barrels lies a great treasure that is the effort and work of Tequila Sabor Azteca. It is an offering of the gods.
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~ Tequila Sabor Azteca
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After lunch, a young man—his name was Marcos, and he represented tequilero (tequila maker) Sabor Azteca from Jalisco, Mexico—gave us a short lesson on tequila before the tasting that followed.
“Authentic tequila can only come from one place,” Marcos began. “Do you know where that is?” “Jalisco, Mexico,” someone answered. “That is correct,” Marcos said. “And what is tequila made from?” “The blue agave,” another person replied. |
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“Oh…this group knows their tequila!” Marcos beamed. “Yes, the blue agave, which grows in the highlands of Jalisco—a plant that takes seven years to reach maturity. I will give you a short lesson on how tequila is made.”
That he did—cooking, fermenting, distilling, aging, and bottling. And then he said, “And do you know what the best tequila is?”
There was silence, as we looked from at another and then to Marcos.
That he did—cooking, fermenting, distilling, aging, and bottling. And then he said, “And do you know what the best tequila is?”
There was silence, as we looked from at another and then to Marcos.
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“It is the one you enjoy the most!” he answered with a mischievous grin. “And I think you will enjoy our tequilas the most!!”
With that, Marcos offered tastes of the nine tequilas—yes, nine, and I tried them all!—he had brought with him. Four were flavored; five were not. I did not care for the flavored tequilas—just not my thing, no matter what spirit I drank. The five unflavored tequilas were Blanco, Joven (‘gold’), Reposado (‘rested’), Anejo (‘aged’), Extra Anejo, and Cristalino. “Aging is the primary difference from Blanco to Extra Anejo,” said Marcos, “while Cristalino undergoes a filtering process to remove its color.” Of the five, I enjoyed Extra Anejo most. |
That’s the one I will buy, I thought, as long as the price is reasonable.
To my chagrin, the price wasn’t reasonable—at least not for me, as the cost of a 750 ml bottle was…$250!
Debra will think I’ve gone mad if I pay that much for a bottle of tequila!
And she would be right.
So, instead I bought a 750 ml bottle of Herradura Anejo tequila—“a deep gold color with a copper tint and a medium full body with notes of herbs, cedar, citrus, and vanilla”—for $50 at the Duty-Free shop in the cruise port terminal before I reboarded the Regal. And you know what? When I tasted it on my first night home, I was VERY HAPPY with my purchase!
I was back on board the Regal by two. As with all the excursions I went on, I regaled Debra with my experiences that day. And when I told her of my great disappointment with the cost of the tequila I had hoped to buy vs. the bottle I did buy, she said with a gentle smile, “That was very mature of you!”
I LOVE my wife!
That night, we ate in the Symphony dining room, and our kids and their significant others joined us. We feasted on an outstanding menu. For me, it was Vol-Au-Vent—a puff pastry with lobster and shrimp bisque; Oxtail Soup (I could not find the tail!); Rack of Lamb with gratin dauphinois and haricot verts; and Chocoholic Cheesecake. Everything I ate—and I ate it all—was delicious.
To my chagrin, the price wasn’t reasonable—at least not for me, as the cost of a 750 ml bottle was…$250!
Debra will think I’ve gone mad if I pay that much for a bottle of tequila!
And she would be right.
So, instead I bought a 750 ml bottle of Herradura Anejo tequila—“a deep gold color with a copper tint and a medium full body with notes of herbs, cedar, citrus, and vanilla”—for $50 at the Duty-Free shop in the cruise port terminal before I reboarded the Regal. And you know what? When I tasted it on my first night home, I was VERY HAPPY with my purchase!
I was back on board the Regal by two. As with all the excursions I went on, I regaled Debra with my experiences that day. And when I told her of my great disappointment with the cost of the tequila I had hoped to buy vs. the bottle I did buy, she said with a gentle smile, “That was very mature of you!”
I LOVE my wife!
That night, we ate in the Symphony dining room, and our kids and their significant others joined us. We feasted on an outstanding menu. For me, it was Vol-Au-Vent—a puff pastry with lobster and shrimp bisque; Oxtail Soup (I could not find the tail!); Rack of Lamb with gratin dauphinois and haricot verts; and Chocoholic Cheesecake. Everything I ate—and I ate it all—was delicious.
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After dinner, we watched Ottavia Belli, ‘The Illusionist,’ in the Princess Theater. His show was
SPECTACULAR!
I wish I could share his show with you, but I (and everyone else) was prohibited from videoing his performance due to copyright laws. Apparently, though, one passenger did not get the memo, as I found a short video on YouTube—one act, and a good one at that:
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I hope you enjoy it.
“So, how was your day?” you ask. Thank you for asking! While I was a bit disappointed with my excursion (I’ve been on enough to know that you win some/you lose some, and I won far more often than I lost), my dinner, the show, and—most important of all—a lovely evening with my family were the exclamation points on my day! I will see you next in Cozumel. |
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Click here to read my next story, Cozumel: Out and About Town.