In November/December 2023, Debra and I went on a 14-day cruise of the Western Caribbean on board the Regal Princess. We sailed round trip from Galveston, Texas, with port stops in Costa Maya, Belize City, Cozumel, and Roatan. Click HERE to read a short introduction.
This story, the sixth in a series, is about my day on Cozumel.
This story, the sixth in a series, is about my day on Cozumel.
Cozumel, Mexico (December 8, 2023) It was the last port of the second week on our back-to-back seven-day cruises through the Western Caribbean—just as it was that first week.
But what a difference a week made!
May I quote from the poem To a Mouse by Scottish poet Robert Burns to make my point?
But what a difference a week made!
May I quote from the poem To a Mouse by Scottish poet Robert Burns to make my point?
The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men
Gang aft agley
Gang aft agley
‘Gang aft agley’—often go awry. And so, it was with our plans in Cozumel the first of December.
Debra and I were booked on a half-day excursion that included two stops—Mayan Cacao Company and Mayan House—and a ride on a glass-bottom semi-submersible boat. We looked forward to our adventure, which was the only excursion Debra would accompany me on over our 14 days at sea.
“The weather will be too hot and too humid,” Debra replied each time I invited her to join me on an outing. “And I don’t do either,” she added emphatically.
But when I mentioned the Mayan Cacao Company on the excursion in Cozumel, she said, “Oh. I’ll make an exception for chocolate!”
UNFORTUNATELY, I developed a splitting headache after dinner the evening before. It kept me up most of the night, and my head was still throbbing the next morning.
Perhaps I could have ‘gutted it out,’ but discretion being the better part of valor (so I’ve heard!), I stayed on board the Regal…and Debra did, too. I felt better by late morning, but it was too late, as the excursion kicked off at 10AM.
Debra and I were booked on a half-day excursion that included two stops—Mayan Cacao Company and Mayan House—and a ride on a glass-bottom semi-submersible boat. We looked forward to our adventure, which was the only excursion Debra would accompany me on over our 14 days at sea.
“The weather will be too hot and too humid,” Debra replied each time I invited her to join me on an outing. “And I don’t do either,” she added emphatically.
But when I mentioned the Mayan Cacao Company on the excursion in Cozumel, she said, “Oh. I’ll make an exception for chocolate!”
UNFORTUNATELY, I developed a splitting headache after dinner the evening before. It kept me up most of the night, and my head was still throbbing the next morning.
Perhaps I could have ‘gutted it out,’ but discretion being the better part of valor (so I’ve heard!), I stayed on board the Regal…and Debra did, too. I felt better by late morning, but it was too late, as the excursion kicked off at 10AM.
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All I managed of Cozumel that day was this selfie from the balcony of our cabin, which I snapped midafternoon.
But December 8th was a second chance opportunity to see something of Cozumel. |
I had had my fill of guided tours—large groups that traveled by motorcoach and walked at the pace of the slowest person. Instead, I struck out on my own—blazed my own path, like the adventurer I was!
Well…sort of.
I followed a well-beaten path rather than the road less traveled—a ‘path’ used by locals and tourists alike—to explore Cozumel from the cruise port to downtown and back.
A walk will do me good, I thought, after all the calories I consumed these past two weeks. For the record, I gained eight pounds, and it took two weeks of lean eating and no wine back home to lose it.
But it wasn’t just about exercise, as there was one site near downtown that I was keen to see. (You’ll have to read on to learn what it was!)
Puerta Maya, where the Regal docked, was one of three primary ports in Cozumel…and it's the one furthest from downtown. My walk turned out to be more of a hike—nearly seven miles roundtrip—that nearly killed me (figuratively, not literally), as the temperature climbed into the mid-80s, while the humidity rose to 90+ percent.
“Remember to drink plenty of water,” Debra said as I left our cabin that morning. I assured her I would.
The truth was I had just one 16-ounce bottle, and I nursed it through the duration of my walk.
Well…sort of.
I followed a well-beaten path rather than the road less traveled—a ‘path’ used by locals and tourists alike—to explore Cozumel from the cruise port to downtown and back.
A walk will do me good, I thought, after all the calories I consumed these past two weeks. For the record, I gained eight pounds, and it took two weeks of lean eating and no wine back home to lose it.
But it wasn’t just about exercise, as there was one site near downtown that I was keen to see. (You’ll have to read on to learn what it was!)
Puerta Maya, where the Regal docked, was one of three primary ports in Cozumel…and it's the one furthest from downtown. My walk turned out to be more of a hike—nearly seven miles roundtrip—that nearly killed me (figuratively, not literally), as the temperature climbed into the mid-80s, while the humidity rose to 90+ percent.
“Remember to drink plenty of water,” Debra said as I left our cabin that morning. I assured her I would.
The truth was I had just one 16-ounce bottle, and I nursed it through the duration of my walk.
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From Puerta Maya, I followed Avenida Rafael E. Melgar northeast towards downtown. With the Caribbean Sea on my left, I passed Senor Frogs, El Cid La Ceiba Beach Hotel, Atlantis Submarine, Cozumel Dive Academy (there were soooo many dive shops along the beach!), Stingray Beach, etc. etc. etc.
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These may be points of interest for some, but they were merely markers along the route for me.
(As an aside for history buffs—and I count myself as one—Rafael Eustacio Melgar (1887-1959) was a soldier during the Mexican Revolution who rose to the rank of General, and later served as Mexico’s ambassador to Holland.)
(As an aside for history buffs—and I count myself as one—Rafael Eustacio Melgar (1887-1959) was a soldier during the Mexican Revolution who rose to the rank of General, and later served as Mexico’s ambassador to Holland.)
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The first true landmark I encountered, about 30 minutes into my walk, was Punta Caletita Faro— the lighthouse at Caletita beach, one of the main sandy beaches in Cozumel.
The cylindrical lighthouse, completed in 2000, was built of concrete and painted white. It was installed to guide boats that traveled from mainland Mexico to an adjacent ferry terminal—just to the left of the yellow dock with black forward slashes in this pic. Cozumel is a flat island, and its highest natural point is only 49 feet above sea level. So, the 82-foot-tall lighthouse, while not the tallest structure on Cozumel, was easy for ship captains to spot from a great distance as they approached the coast. |
This might be TMI for you, but I was in desperate need of a baño—a bathroom—when I left the lighthouse, so I was happy to spot a Chedraui, a grocery and department store, on the other side of Melgar Avenue. Inside, I asked an employee for directions to the men’s room. He pointed the way. Problem solved!
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Never one to miss a shopping opportunity, I wandered from aisle to aisle before I left the store. I had nothing specific in mind to buy—just an interest in what was sold and for how much.
Wouldn’t you know it, though. I found a short-sleeve rayon shirt with a geometric print that screamed, “BUY ME!” I did, and I wore it to dinner that night. Pretty sharp, huh?! Five minutes later, I reached Parque Municipal de Cozumel—the municipal park of Cozumel—a second landmark (for me) along the beaten path. |
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“Known for its beautiful scenery and tranquil atmosphere,” this park featured a variety of recreational facilities, an outdoor amphitheater, and—'Tis the Season, after all—Christmas decorations.
I must admit I chuckled at this display—actually, I scratched my head as I tried to figure out the connection between Goofy, Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck, and Yuletide. They’re not exactly the Three Wise Men, right?!
And then I thought, Not everything must have an explanation, Howard. Just enjoy it! And I did. |
The Big Reveal
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Among the many treasures this island holds is the awe-inspiring Cathedral of Corpus Christi, a magnificent testament to faith, history, and architectural brilliance. ~ stingrayvilla.com
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I LOVE churches—I visit as many as I can when I travel—so when I read this blurb as I planned that day, I knew I had to visit this cathedral, named for the feast that celebrated the Eucharist as the body of Christ.
The first stones, the cathedral’s foundation, were laid in the late 19th century, and the “magnificent structure,” built in the neoclassical style—characterized by simple geometric forms, dramatic columns, and a flat roof—was completed in 1938.
The first stones, the cathedral’s foundation, were laid in the late 19th century, and the “magnificent structure,” built in the neoclassical style—characterized by simple geometric forms, dramatic columns, and a flat roof—was completed in 1938.
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As with most cathedrals, Corpus Christi was built in the shape of a cross. The arched entranceway, visible in the left-hand photo above, was at the bottom of the stipes—the long beam of the cross. An ornate altar, seen in the right-hand photo above, stood at the opposite end.
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The piece de resistance is the breathtaking altarpiece. Every detail, from the shimmering gold leaf to the carved motifs, tells a story of reverence and dedication. (ibid.)
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There were two small chapels, one at either end of the patibulum—the horizontal beam of the cross.
I was impressed by the simple beauty inside the cathedral—an open floor design with clear lines that provided unobstructed views throughout with an emphasis on natural light. |
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And I was awestruck by the religious art and artifacts that hung on walls and stood atop pedestals throughout the cathedral—no piece more so than a beautiful painting of Christ, its frame adorned in a colorful floral display.
Jesus, confio en ti! proclaimed the words below the figure of Christ. ‘Jesus, I trust you!’ I am sure your experience with churches mirrored mine. Each one I visited was different from the last…and from the next. And so, it was with the Cathedral of Corpus Christi. It was not as ornate as some, yet more so than others. Still, the Cathedral of Corpus Christi had this in common with all churches: It was a sacred house of worship—peaceful, reverent, and inspirational. And for me, it was a lovely experience. |
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I followed a direct route from the cathedral to the Regal, which took an hour or so to navigate. I finished the last drops of water—long since warmed by the sun—just before I reboarded the ship near midafternoon.
With the Princess Medallion app, I tracked down Debra, who sat in the shade on Deck 16 with her current read—a mystery—in hand.
“Join me in Horizon Court?” I asked.
She did, and as I ate—Debra had already eaten—I showed a handful of photos to her as I shared the highlights of my ‘adventure.’ And then I said, “Would you like to walk around Maya Puerta? There are a few dozen shops—maybe you’ll find a keepsake.”
“Sure,” she replied, much to my surprise.
We left no money behind in Maya Puerta—which is to say, we didn’t buy a thing—but we found several photo ops that gave Debra the right to say, “I was on Cozumel.”
With the Princess Medallion app, I tracked down Debra, who sat in the shade on Deck 16 with her current read—a mystery—in hand.
“Join me in Horizon Court?” I asked.
She did, and as I ate—Debra had already eaten—I showed a handful of photos to her as I shared the highlights of my ‘adventure.’ And then I said, “Would you like to walk around Maya Puerta? There are a few dozen shops—maybe you’ll find a keepsake.”
“Sure,” she replied, much to my surprise.
We left no money behind in Maya Puerta—which is to say, we didn’t buy a thing—but we found several photo ops that gave Debra the right to say, “I was on Cozumel.”
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Our extended family—Sarah and David, Ryan and Jill, Debra and me—had dinner in the Symphony dining room. Want to know what I ate? Of course, you do!
I couldn’t make up my mind between two appetizers, so I ordered both—Escargots Bourguignon and Crab & Shrimp Seafood Bisque. My entrée was a no-brainer—Surf & Turf, which included a beef tenderloin, lobster tail, double-baked potato, and steamed veggies. And for dessert—French Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée.
Absolutely delicious!
We finished dinner in time to make it to the first seating of Bravo in the Princess Theatre—a musical show where “light opera meets popular songs,” backed by a 13-piece orchestra. The highlight of the show—a true showstopper—was an opera aria sung by a very gifted soprano. To a person, we loved Bravo!
Later, we went to the Vista Lounge to see a comedy show. We were ready to laugh. Unfortunately, the comic wasn’t funny, and we left midway through his show. You win some/you lose some, and that loss meant we had more time to listen to the musicians who performed in the Piazza. The music—and the time we spent together—was a fitting end to a wonderful day!
Click HERE to read my next story, On the Regal Princess: Refreshing, Relaxing & Enchanting.
I couldn’t make up my mind between two appetizers, so I ordered both—Escargots Bourguignon and Crab & Shrimp Seafood Bisque. My entrée was a no-brainer—Surf & Turf, which included a beef tenderloin, lobster tail, double-baked potato, and steamed veggies. And for dessert—French Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée.
Absolutely delicious!
We finished dinner in time to make it to the first seating of Bravo in the Princess Theatre—a musical show where “light opera meets popular songs,” backed by a 13-piece orchestra. The highlight of the show—a true showstopper—was an opera aria sung by a very gifted soprano. To a person, we loved Bravo!
Later, we went to the Vista Lounge to see a comedy show. We were ready to laugh. Unfortunately, the comic wasn’t funny, and we left midway through his show. You win some/you lose some, and that loss meant we had more time to listen to the musicians who performed in the Piazza. The music—and the time we spent together—was a fitting end to a wonderful day!
Click HERE to read my next story, On the Regal Princess: Refreshing, Relaxing & Enchanting.