In August 2023, daughter Jill and I went on a 7-day Greek Enchantment cruise with Holland America. We sailed Venice to Athens, with port stops in Croatia, Turkey, and Greece. And ahead of our cruise, we spent two days in Venice, the world-renowned City of Canals. Our journey was memorable from start to finish!
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our 10-day holiday.
This story, part of a series, is about our first day in Venice.
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our 10-day holiday.
This story, part of a series, is about our first day in Venice.
Venice, Italy (August 17, 2023) I was thrilled when Jill invited me to join her on a 7-day Greek Enchantment cruise with Holland America, and I’ll tell you why: I would finally see Venice, a city I longed to visit ever since I saw The Italian Job in 2003. (I know, I know—little of this movie was shot in Venice. But still…)
And I was doubly thrilled when Jill agreed to fly to Venice a day early—we arrived there two days before the start of our cruise—so that I could see more of the famed City of Canals.
(Venice has many nicknames, including Queen of the Adriatic, City of Water, The Floating City, and City of Bridges...but I liked City of Canals best!)
One cannot ‘do Venice’ in two days, as there are SO MANY sites and attractions in this capital city of northern Italy’s Veneto region. But, as Jill and I learned, we could see a lot—and we did—over two days.
This was Day One.
And I was doubly thrilled when Jill agreed to fly to Venice a day early—we arrived there two days before the start of our cruise—so that I could see more of the famed City of Canals.
(Venice has many nicknames, including Queen of the Adriatic, City of Water, The Floating City, and City of Bridges...but I liked City of Canals best!)
One cannot ‘do Venice’ in two days, as there are SO MANY sites and attractions in this capital city of northern Italy’s Veneto region. But, as Jill and I learned, we could see a lot—and we did—over two days.
This was Day One.
Travelling to Europe from the United States—especially from Arizona, where Jill and I live—was not for the faint of heart. We flew from Phoenix to Philadelphia, then Philadelphia to Venice—the latter, a red-eye flight—and landed at Marco Polo Airport midmorning on the 17th.
Our journey from Phoenix to Venice—nearly 6,000 ‘frequent flyer’ miles on American Airlines—was thirteen hours in the air, 16 hours in duration with a 3-hour layover in Philly, and longer still if you count our travel time to Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport. We made the long trip without a wink of sleep, as neither Jill nor I have figured out ‘plane sleep’ despite many flights to and from Europe and other far away destinations.
But as my wife, Debra, is wont to say, “Sleep is overrated.” And you know, she might be right, as Jill and I hit the ground running and, as tired as we were, we did not stop until well past dinnertime.
Our journey from Phoenix to Venice—nearly 6,000 ‘frequent flyer’ miles on American Airlines—was thirteen hours in the air, 16 hours in duration with a 3-hour layover in Philly, and longer still if you count our travel time to Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport. We made the long trip without a wink of sleep, as neither Jill nor I have figured out ‘plane sleep’ despite many flights to and from Europe and other far away destinations.
But as my wife, Debra, is wont to say, “Sleep is overrated.” And you know, she might be right, as Jill and I hit the ground running and, as tired as we were, we did not stop until well past dinnertime.
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An hour after we debarked the aircraft, we boarded an enclosed water taxi—it’s a small motorboat that is the workhorse of Venice—for a 20-minute ride to the Molino Stucky, a Hilton hotel on the island of Giudecca. The Hilton—the main building was once one of the largest flour mills in Europe—was our home away from home for two nights.
The taxi ride was a unique, and at times exhilarating, experience, and it was a wonderful way to see the scenery as we approached Venice! Yep, I thought as we glided across the water, Venice is just as I pictured it – a floating city within a large lagoon.
The taxi ride was a unique, and at times exhilarating, experience, and it was a wonderful way to see the scenery as we approached Venice! Yep, I thought as we glided across the water, Venice is just as I pictured it – a floating city within a large lagoon.
In fact, ‘floating’ was an illusion, because Venice was built on top of millions of tree trunks—more than 10 million, by one estimate—that were “forced down into the ground to create a stable…platform to build on top of.” Why don’t the tree trunks rot? I wondered. The answer: The water they were submerged in is oxygen-poor—it lacks “the conditions needed for microorganisms to flourish and decay the wood.” Absolutely fascinating!
Check-in was seamless. We stowed our luggage—our room would not be ready for a few hours—and boarded a vaporetto, AKA water bus, for San Marco. The water bus held many more passengers (60 to 80) than the water taxi (6 to 10), just as a city bus held significantly more passengers than a cab.
Of the many sights I saw along our route that morning, none was more beautiful (IMHO) than the Church of Saint Mary of the Rosary. It was the symmetry of the Baroque façade, finished in alabaster white, that first caught my eye—six tall columns, four alcoves with statuary, and one ornate pediment. I was captivated by the grandeur of this architecture.
Check-in was seamless. We stowed our luggage—our room would not be ready for a few hours—and boarded a vaporetto, AKA water bus, for San Marco. The water bus held many more passengers (60 to 80) than the water taxi (6 to 10), just as a city bus held significantly more passengers than a cab.
Of the many sights I saw along our route that morning, none was more beautiful (IMHO) than the Church of Saint Mary of the Rosary. It was the symmetry of the Baroque façade, finished in alabaster white, that first caught my eye—six tall columns, four alcoves with statuary, and one ornate pediment. I was captivated by the grandeur of this architecture.
“Jill, look at that church. Isn’t it lovely?”
“It is…but it’s only the first of many you will see,” she replied.
How many churches are there? I wondered. With a tap-tap-tap on the screen of my phone, I Googled, ‘how many churches in Venice.’ I had my answer in less than a second: 139—88 held at least one weekly mass and 51 had been converted into schools, museums, and the like.
I saw many churches—and visited quite a few—as we wandered through Venice…but nowhere near 139! And if you wonder whether I had a look-see at Saint Mary, the answer is ‘yes,’ on Day Two. I thought it was as magnificent inside as it was outside, but you’ll have to wait for my next story to see and learn more.
San Marco island—one of 118 islands that make up the Venetian aquapolis—is “the tourist heart of Venice, home to iconic sights…and thronged with people.” Jill and I spent most of our two days on San Marco, and with a third day, I think, we would have seen all the ‘must sees’ there.
The vaporetto dropped us near the Monument to Victor Emmanuel II, located on the promenade that led to Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark’s Square. (I will also cover this site in my story on Day Two). Emmanuel was the first king of the Kingdom of Italy (1861-1878), the single nation created from many smaller states.
We eyed the monument for a few minutes, and then Jill said, “There’s a lot going on there.” Indeed, there was.
“It is…but it’s only the first of many you will see,” she replied.
How many churches are there? I wondered. With a tap-tap-tap on the screen of my phone, I Googled, ‘how many churches in Venice.’ I had my answer in less than a second: 139—88 held at least one weekly mass and 51 had been converted into schools, museums, and the like.
I saw many churches—and visited quite a few—as we wandered through Venice…but nowhere near 139! And if you wonder whether I had a look-see at Saint Mary, the answer is ‘yes,’ on Day Two. I thought it was as magnificent inside as it was outside, but you’ll have to wait for my next story to see and learn more.
San Marco island—one of 118 islands that make up the Venetian aquapolis—is “the tourist heart of Venice, home to iconic sights…and thronged with people.” Jill and I spent most of our two days on San Marco, and with a third day, I think, we would have seen all the ‘must sees’ there.
The vaporetto dropped us near the Monument to Victor Emmanuel II, located on the promenade that led to Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark’s Square. (I will also cover this site in my story on Day Two). Emmanuel was the first king of the Kingdom of Italy (1861-1878), the single nation created from many smaller states.
We eyed the monument for a few minutes, and then Jill said, “There’s a lot going on there.” Indeed, there was.
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The bronze statue atop the pedestal depicts Emmanuel on horseback with a raised sword in his right hand. Another statue, which sat on the granite base, is the embodiment of Venice triumphant; flanked by a roaring lion, Venice holds a sword in its right hand, its left arm raised in victory over the reunification of Italy. The monument was cast by 19th century Italian artist Alessandro Nelli; it was unveiled on the 10th anniversary of Emmanuel’s death.
Day One was a day to wander and explore. We had no itinerary and no route, so Jill and I meandered through the narrow streets paved with lightly textured stones. Much easier, I thought, than walking on cobblestones! I marveled at the architecture as we went…
Day One was a day to wander and explore. We had no itinerary and no route, so Jill and I meandered through the narrow streets paved with lightly textured stones. Much easier, I thought, than walking on cobblestones! I marveled at the architecture as we went…
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…and made it a point to visit a few of the churches we passed, like this one, the 15th century Chiesa (Church) di San Zaccaria. Dedicated to Zacharias, the father of John the Baptist, San Zaccaria is one of the oldest places of worship in Venice.
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“Dad, are you hungry?”
I was, so we eyeballed the surrounding area. Not more than 50 feet ahead, we spotted Trattoria Pizzeria da Roberto. I looked at Jill and she looked at me; we both nodded, so off we went.
“Outside or inside?” the host asked.
I was, so we eyeballed the surrounding area. Not more than 50 feet ahead, we spotted Trattoria Pizzeria da Roberto. I looked at Jill and she looked at me; we both nodded, so off we went.
“Outside or inside?” the host asked.
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“Inside, please,” Jill answered, as it was too hot (86 degrees) and too humid (70%!) to comfortably enjoy the patio.
The menu, presented in several languages, was extensive—antipasto, soup, salad, pasta, pizza, and more. “Are you ready to order?” asked our waiter. “We are,” I said. “We’ll have two mixed salads, seafood pasta for my daughter, and ravioli with ham and brie cheese for me.” “And to drink?” “A large bottle of water—no gas—and a split of Castiglioni Chianti.” “Very good,” he replied...and then he was off. |
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I would like to say that our meals were delicious…but I can’t. What I can say, though, was that our pasta tasted good, and our first gastronomic experience in Venice felt ‘Italian!’
“How about some gelato?” I asked Jill when we finished lunch. “My treat.”
“Who would turn down that offer,” Jill replied with a smile. “Certainly not me!”
“How about some gelato?” I asked Jill when we finished lunch. “My treat.”
“Who would turn down that offer,” Jill replied with a smile. “Certainly not me!”
Located in northeastern Italy at the end of the Adriatic Sea, Venice is world-renowned for its network of canals. I’m a numbers guy—professionally, I was a ‘bean counter,’ AKA an accountant—so I sought the truth from facts. Guess what? The facts varied! So, here’s the ‘tale of the tape’ in ranges: there are 150 to 175 canals in Venice with a total length of 26 to 38 miles.
With that many canals, Jill and I were bound to cross one in short order, and we did. Check out the gondolas, a few of the more than 400 in service in Venice, used only by tourists.
With that many canals, Jill and I were bound to cross one in short order, and we did. Check out the gondolas, a few of the more than 400 in service in Venice, used only by tourists.
The two bridges, by the way, were also part of the fabric of Venice—a means of connecting islands and islets separated by the canals. Some, like the Rialto Bridge (Day Two), were famous; most, though, were not.
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
~ Oscar Wilde
~ Oscar Wilde
Many European cities with canals, including Amsterdam, Bruges, Copenhagen, and Strasbourg—four cities I’ve visited—refer to themselves as the ‘Venice of the North.’ Perhaps they are…or perhaps they are merely Venetian-like, pretenders to a nonexistent title.
So, what set Venice apart—and made it the one and only City of Canals--from the cities that claimed the moniker Venice of the North?
So, what set Venice apart—and made it the one and only City of Canals--from the cities that claimed the moniker Venice of the North?
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Other travelers might have a different answer than me, but here’s mine: Venice, which has no roads, was fully dependent on its canals to transport goods and people, while the other cities, to the best of my knowledge, were not. This, I believe, makes Venice unique among the many cities with a system of canals.
That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it! The canals were a marvel to see…and better yet, as we learned on Day Two, they were a fun way to move around the city. I’ll have more to share about the canals and gondolas in my next story. |
A couple of hours after we set foot on San Marco, we boarded a water bus that dropped us at the Hilton Molino Stucky. Much to our delight, we found that our room was ready. It was spacious—larger than a typical hotel room, and certainly larger than most hotel rooms in Europe—with two full-size beds, a sitting area, and a well-appointed bathroom. And it was clean and well-maintained.
With a shower, shave, and fresh set of clothes, I felt like a new man!
That evening, we ate dinner at the Rialto Lobby Bar and Lounge—seafood pasta for me, Seabream (a white fish) for Jill. The pasta, accompanied by a glass of red wine, hit the spot.
After dinner, I said to Jill, “Would you like to join me on a short walk?”
“No, I’ve walked enough today,” she answered with a wink. “I think I’ll catch up on emails and Facebook posts, and maybe read a chapter or two in the book I brought with me.”
“I’ll see you in a half hour or so,” I said.
I was glad I went for a walk because I was treated to this magnificent sunset...
With a shower, shave, and fresh set of clothes, I felt like a new man!
That evening, we ate dinner at the Rialto Lobby Bar and Lounge—seafood pasta for me, Seabream (a white fish) for Jill. The pasta, accompanied by a glass of red wine, hit the spot.
After dinner, I said to Jill, “Would you like to join me on a short walk?”
“No, I’ve walked enough today,” she answered with a wink. “I think I’ll catch up on emails and Facebook posts, and maybe read a chapter or two in the book I brought with me.”
“I’ll see you in a half hour or so,” I said.
I was glad I went for a walk because I was treated to this magnificent sunset...
…and I found the perfect restaurant for dinner on Day Two. I could not wait to tell Jill.
“I found a great restaurant for tomorrow night, and it’s only a five-minute walk from the hotel. The best part is that we can dine on a patio that overlooks the Venetian Lagoon.”
“What’s the name?” Jill asked.
I told her, and soon she browsed the online menu.
“I’m in!” she exclaimed.
I checked my watch. It was a few minutes to nine.
To say we were exhausted is an understatement, as we had been up for 31 hours and walked three- or four-miles around San Marco. I was in bed by 9:30 and asleep by 10:00.
Many people count sheep to fall asleep—so I’ve heard. Not me. I counted canals!
Stand by for my next story, Day Two in the City of Canals.
“I found a great restaurant for tomorrow night, and it’s only a five-minute walk from the hotel. The best part is that we can dine on a patio that overlooks the Venetian Lagoon.”
“What’s the name?” Jill asked.
I told her, and soon she browsed the online menu.
“I’m in!” she exclaimed.
I checked my watch. It was a few minutes to nine.
To say we were exhausted is an understatement, as we had been up for 31 hours and walked three- or four-miles around San Marco. I was in bed by 9:30 and asleep by 10:00.
Many people count sheep to fall asleep—so I’ve heard. Not me. I counted canals!
Stand by for my next story, Day Two in the City of Canals.