In February 2024, Jill and I toured Southeast Asia by land and by sea. We sailed from Thailand to Hong Kong on board the Crystal Symphony and spent two days in Bangkok and two days in Hong Kong before and after our cruise. We had an epic adventure!
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our journey.
This story, part of a series, is about my day in Sihanoukville, where I received a sacred water blessing, visited the city's biggest market, and learned the story about the ancestors of all Khmer people.
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our journey.
This story, part of a series, is about my day in Sihanoukville, where I received a sacred water blessing, visited the city's biggest market, and learned the story about the ancestors of all Khmer people.
Jill and me at Phsar Leu Market in Sihanoukville
Sihanoukville, Cambodia (February 18, 2024) Welcome to Sihanoukville, I wrote on Facebook minutes after the ship docked. At a bit past noon, it’s 84 degrees with 69% humidity. Jill and I will soon head out on an afternoon tour. News at 11.
Our excursion was called ‘Simply Sihanoukville,’ and when I read the description…
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Guests will depart to Wat Leu Pagoda where you will be greeted by monks who will perform a blessing ceremony…designed to impart good luck, long life, and happiness. Continue to the Phsar Leu Market, the biggest traditional market in Sihanoukville… (and)…a fishing village…to see local life.
~ Crysal Cruises
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…I knew it fit squarely with my #1 goal: learn new things and experience cultures.
I’ll take you on our tour in a moment, but first…
I’ll take you on our tour in a moment, but first…
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Through the night, the Crystal Symphony sailed from Laem Chabang, the port city for Bangkok, along the eastern edge of the Gulf of Thailand. It was smooth sailing, with no more than a gentle rocking back-and-forth.
I slept in, although not too late, and relished the extra time in bed. |
“Jill, I’m going to the fitness center before breakfast, and then I plan to sit in on the lectures at 10 and 11. Will you join me?”
“Sure,” she replied. “I’ll meet you in the Galaxy Lounge.”
In the fitness center I followed my (almost) daily routine at home—stretch to limber up my arms, legs, and back, then light weights to keep my biceps toned. Maybe 15 to 20 minutes in total, and nothing too strenuous. As always, it was a great way to start my day.
And then? I video chatted with Debra, my wife—an everyday ritual that melted away the thousands of miles (and 14 time zones) that separated us. To co-opt the Folger’s jingle, our daily chat was the ‘best part of waking up!’
Jill was gone when I returned to our cabin. She had had time to herself, I thought. Now I have time to myself. I showered—I absolutely LOVED the ceiling-mounted rain shower—dressed, and headed to Marketplace, the buffet-style restaurant where I ate most mornings. There I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast—a little of this (slices of fruit and nuts), a little of that (eggs, breakfast meat, and a carb), a couple of cups of coffee, and a pleasant conversation with Lukah, the waiter whose table I sat at this morning.
At a few minutes to ten, I met Jill in the Galaxy Lounge.
The two lectures we attended were part of the Crystal Visions Enrichment Lecture Series offered on every cruise—noted authors, historians, entertainers, motivational speakers, etc. etc. etc., and all experts in their field. There were four guest lecturers on our cruise; the first was Dr. Michael Soon Lee, an “internationally recognized author and speaker on the subjects of culture and history.”
Dr. Lee’s presentation was titled ‘Sihanoukville: Port of the Moon,’ and the information he shared—the city’s history, culture, attractions, food, beaches, and nightlife—was a great primer ahead of our afternoon excursion.
Next up was Steve Friedman, an “internationally recognized Broadway musical historian,” and his topic was ‘The Musical Golden Age: 1950-1960.’ While I never attended a musical on Broadway—once, many years ago, I saw an Off-Broadway show—I’ve watched several movies based on Broadway musicals, and always found them entertaining.
A few minutes into his presentation—he was talking about the Rodgers and Hammerstein musical, Oklahoma!—Steve sang the opening lines from the iconic song, Oh, What a Beautiful Morning.
(Steve was a trained classical tenor who performed in musical theater, including Camelot and Damn Yankees. He had a lovely voice and was a pleasure to listen to.)
And then he reached the refrain:
“Sure,” she replied. “I’ll meet you in the Galaxy Lounge.”
In the fitness center I followed my (almost) daily routine at home—stretch to limber up my arms, legs, and back, then light weights to keep my biceps toned. Maybe 15 to 20 minutes in total, and nothing too strenuous. As always, it was a great way to start my day.
And then? I video chatted with Debra, my wife—an everyday ritual that melted away the thousands of miles (and 14 time zones) that separated us. To co-opt the Folger’s jingle, our daily chat was the ‘best part of waking up!’
Jill was gone when I returned to our cabin. She had had time to herself, I thought. Now I have time to myself. I showered—I absolutely LOVED the ceiling-mounted rain shower—dressed, and headed to Marketplace, the buffet-style restaurant where I ate most mornings. There I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast—a little of this (slices of fruit and nuts), a little of that (eggs, breakfast meat, and a carb), a couple of cups of coffee, and a pleasant conversation with Lukah, the waiter whose table I sat at this morning.
At a few minutes to ten, I met Jill in the Galaxy Lounge.
The two lectures we attended were part of the Crystal Visions Enrichment Lecture Series offered on every cruise—noted authors, historians, entertainers, motivational speakers, etc. etc. etc., and all experts in their field. There were four guest lecturers on our cruise; the first was Dr. Michael Soon Lee, an “internationally recognized author and speaker on the subjects of culture and history.”
Dr. Lee’s presentation was titled ‘Sihanoukville: Port of the Moon,’ and the information he shared—the city’s history, culture, attractions, food, beaches, and nightlife—was a great primer ahead of our afternoon excursion.
Next up was Steve Friedman, an “internationally recognized Broadway musical historian,” and his topic was ‘The Musical Golden Age: 1950-1960.’ While I never attended a musical on Broadway—once, many years ago, I saw an Off-Broadway show—I’ve watched several movies based on Broadway musicals, and always found them entertaining.
A few minutes into his presentation—he was talking about the Rodgers and Hammerstein musical, Oklahoma!—Steve sang the opening lines from the iconic song, Oh, What a Beautiful Morning.
(Steve was a trained classical tenor who performed in musical theater, including Camelot and Damn Yankees. He had a lovely voice and was a pleasure to listen to.)
And then he reached the refrain:
Oh, what beautiful mornin’
Oh, what a beautiful day
I got a beautiful feelin’
Everything’s goin’ my way
Oh, what a beautiful day
I got a beautiful feelin’
Everything’s goin’ my way
Well, if these words don’t capture my mood, I thought, nothing will.
I know this will sound corny, but I must say: it had been a beautiful morning— the start of a beautiful day—and I had a beautiful feeling, everything WAS going my way!
I know this will sound corny, but I must say: it had been a beautiful morning— the start of a beautiful day—and I had a beautiful feeling, everything WAS going my way!
‘Simply Sihanoukville’ was a group tour—Jill, me, and a couple dozen fellow cruise ship passengers. We traveled by airconditioned bus—thank God!—from stop to stop, and as we drove along Phe Street towards our first destination, we passed many small businesses like these—what you and I would call 'Mom-and-Pop’ stores. Different country but a similar commercial landscape as back home, I thought, dotted with small, family-owned businesses. The more I traveled aboard, the more similarities I saw to life in the States.
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Our tour guide was a young man from Sihanoukville; his name was Nem Born. Nem was personable and knowledgeable, and he had a good command of the English language. Here’s Nem and me at our first stop, Wat Leu, which proved to be THE highlight of the tour for me.
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Wat Leu, known as the ‘Upper Wat’ because it sat atop a hill, was one of the five main wats (Buddhist temples) in Sihanoukville. The principal building was this beautiful pagoda—which I believe is called Congregation Hall—built in the 1960s.
Symbol of Peace and Serenity
Nestled on the hilltop of Sihanoukville, Wat Leu Pagoda…is one of the most revered religious sites in the region and exudes a sense of peace and tranquility, making it an ideal place for mediation and self-reflection.
~ visitlocaltravel.com
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Although relatively new, the pagoda reflected the architectural elements reminiscent of ancient Cambodian temples: layered (multi-tiered) roofs, gabled pediments with intricate carvings, and elaborate decorative motifs.
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You might have noticed the multi-colored sculptures on either side of the heart in the photo above. I cropped the sculpture on the left, and here is in the pic at the right.
The sculptures are intertwined snakes—specifically, hooded cobras. I asked Nem what this represented, and he answered, “In Buddhism, the cobra represents spiritual wisdom and divine protection.” Fascinating! |
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Nem invited us to climb a stone staircase for a panoramic view of the city’s skyline. I did, and when I reached the tiled plaza, I was surprised by the number of tall buildings I saw—many more than I spotted this morning from the top deck of the Symphony, and more than I would have expected for a city of 71,000. And then I remembered something Dr. Lee said.
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“There was a construction boom—a building frenzy—in 2018 and 2019 led by Chinese investors who flooded the city with plans for hotels and casinos, often with little government oversight. Unfortunately, it ended as quickly as it started—a building site collapsed, the government banned online gambling, which was the mainstay of the casinos, and then Covid knocked out tourism. Now the city is littered with unfinished buildings, and unfortunately, many of those projects were subsequently abandoned.”
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And that was what I saw—many half-finished buildings, like the one in this photo— when we drove through downtown later this day. It looked good from afar, I thought, but it’s far from good. What a shame.
“Please follow me,” Nem said.
“Please follow me,” Nem said.
Side view of pagoda
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We did, and soon climbed another staircase—this one to reach Ordination Hall, where we received the ‘sacred water blessing,’ a traditional Cambodian ritual that dated to ancient times.
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A monk—monks, by the way, serve as intermediaries between the human and spiritual realms—chanted a traditional blessing (“Good luck, long life, and happiness,” Nem said) as he used a bamboo whisk to sprinkle lotus-infused water on us.
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The blessings bestowed by monks are seen as a form of spiritual protection and guidance, providing individuals with a sense of peace and serenity.
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~ areacambodia.com
I’ll admit to being more interested in capturing this moment than being in it—I know…shame on me—so I shot a video as the monk, draped in his saffron-colored robe, performed the blessing. I’ve watched my video many times since, but try as I might, I cannot distinguish any of the 35 to 40 words he chanted during the 10-second ritual.
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Later I read there were two types of water blessings—the ‘sprinkled water blessing’ and the ‘heavy water blessing.’ In the latter, a monk pours vessels of water over your head.
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Well, I’m sure glad our blessing was the former and not the latter, I chuckled to myself.
When the ceremony ended, we had time to explore the inside of the pagoda. The walls and ceiling were lined with stunning murals in vibrant colors; each mural, I assumed, was a depiction of one aspect of Buddha’s life and teachings. I don’t recall seeing anything similar inside the temples I visited in Thailand, so perhaps this was something specific to Cambodia’s temples. |
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Here are a few more photos from the grounds of Wat Leu…
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Wat Leu, IMHO, contradicted the old adage, ‘If you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all,’ as it was decidedly different from the Thai temples I visited the past few days. It was well worth a visit, and a great start to our tour of Sihanoukville!
Our next stop—a brief one—was the Statue of Preah Thong and Neang Neak, “an Indian prince and a Naga woman who are the ancestors of all Khmer people,” Nem told us. And then he added, “A Naga is a mythical being, half human and half cobra, who lives in an underworld filled with gems and other treasures.”
Our next stop—a brief one—was the Statue of Preah Thong and Neang Neak, “an Indian prince and a Naga woman who are the ancestors of all Khmer people,” Nem told us. And then he added, “A Naga is a mythical being, half human and half cobra, who lives in an underworld filled with gems and other treasures.”
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Dr. Lee mentioned this statue during his presentation.
“The Statue of Preah Thong and Neang Neak, which sits on a roundabout near Serendipity Beach, is the largest copper statue in Cambodia,” he said. “It is nearly 70 feet tall and weighs 60 tons.” Later I read (thebettercambodia.com), “The statue depicts the journey of Preah Thong and Neang Neak to meet their parents at the Naga palace in the depths of the ocean, known as Than Phu Chong Neak, which represent the origin of Cambodia’s land, culture, and customs. (Their) story has been passed down through generations, and their union has greatly influenced Khmer wedding customs.” |
Nice!
Next, we visited Phsar Leu Market, the biggest market in Sihanoukville. It was a busy place, attracting tourists and locals alike.
Next, we visited Phsar Leu Market, the biggest market in Sihanoukville. It was a busy place, attracting tourists and locals alike.
Main entrance to Phsar Leu Market
I walked…and walked…and walked through a maze of stalls and stands, and here was what I saw: traditional foods, seasonal fruits, snacks, gold jewelry, household products, cosmetics, flowers, hair stylists, packaged foods, shoes, clothes, phones, luggage, incense, perfume, knock-off ‘designer’ handbags, souvenirs—you name it, it was (likely) there, and everything was under one roof.
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Were there bargains? There were, but nothing I saw was of interest to me...…until I spotted my go-to souvenir, a ball cap that screamed, “Howard visited Cambodia!” (Metaphorically speaking, that is.) It was burgundy in color, with ‘CAMBODIA’ stitched in white below the country’s red, white, and blue flag. My cost? Seven dollars. Well done, Howard, if I do say so myself!
The market was interesting—a cultural experience for me, as I observed how locals do business with locals—but not a must-see attraction for tourists. From the market we drove through downtown towards our final stop… |
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…as I gazed out the window, I could not help but notice this interesting statue, and with help from the internet, I soon learned what it was: Skanda, the Hindu God of War, sitting atop a peacock. And then I read, “the peacock is a bird associated with youthful fertility and swift aggression in battle…(and) a divine vehicle (with) the peacock’s tail feathers forming a decorative nimbus behind (Skanda).”
As Paul Harvey used to say, “And now you know the rest of the story!” |
Soon we reached a traditional fishing village, located on the gulf coast a short distance north of Sihanoukville. “Fishing is one of the most important local industries in Cambodia,” Nem said, “It is the most important source of protein in our diet, and a primary source of income for many.”
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If Nem shared the name of this village, I didn’t hear him…or I don’t remember. Many shore excursions, though, go to Tumnuk Rolok Fishing Village. It’s located a short drive north of the city, so there was a good chance this was the name of the village we visited.
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No one in this village, it seemed, shied away from bright, sometimes neon, colors—and maybe this was a part of what made this village ‘traditional.’
There were rows and rows of small boats tied up to wooden piers built on stilts. It looked as though they were in for the day—although maybe they go out at night—and most boats were unloaded before we arrived. But one crew was sorting and packaging its catch, a type of herring from the looks of it. Based on the size of this catch—it wasn’t big—I felt certain these fishermen (and probably all the fisherman in this village) fished to meet their need and the needs of their community, rather than for commercial purposes.
There were rows and rows of small boats tied up to wooden piers built on stilts. It looked as though they were in for the day—although maybe they go out at night—and most boats were unloaded before we arrived. But one crew was sorting and packaging its catch, a type of herring from the looks of it. Based on the size of this catch—it wasn’t big—I felt certain these fishermen (and probably all the fisherman in this village) fished to meet their need and the needs of their community, rather than for commercial purposes.
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As I walked from the pier to the bus, a young girl who was probably no more than five years old waved when she saw me with my camera in hand. And then she did something that caught me off guard—she walked up to me and gave me a high five. Talk about cute!
We were back on board the Symphony at half past five. In all, we traveled nearly 30 miles on our half day excursion.
‘Simply Sihanoukville’ delivered the experiences I had hoped for—I learned new things and gained insights into the customs and culture of the Cambodian people.
We were back on board the Symphony at half past five. In all, we traveled nearly 30 miles on our half day excursion.
‘Simply Sihanoukville’ delivered the experiences I had hoped for—I learned new things and gained insights into the customs and culture of the Cambodian people.
Jill and I had dinner at Waterside Restaurant. I was thinking fish for my entrée—the menu included grilled grouper and pan-fried turbot—but Yorrick, our senior waiter, said, “I recommend the Black Angus prime rib. It is superb!”
Who was I to argue? And he was right of course—the prime rib was superb, and I savored every bite. This was my dinner, in four photos.
Who was I to argue? And he was right of course—the prime rib was superb, and I savored every bite. This was my dinner, in four photos.
Carpaccio of Blank Angus Beef
Black Angus Prime Rib
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Penne Puttanesca
Stout & Dark Chocolate
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“Dad, we have an hour before the show,” Jill said as we finished dinner. “Let’s see who’s playing in the Starlite Club.”
It was the ‘Flair Duo,’ and their specialty was music for ballroom dancing. We didn’t dance, but we sure enjoyed their sound. And then…
It was the ‘Flair Duo,’ and their specialty was music for ballroom dancing. We didn’t dance, but we sure enjoyed their sound. And then…
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Direct from Melbourne, Australia, the most explosive and colorful tribute to Elton John. Extraordinarily captivating, The Elton Show is…an amazing musical celebration of the Rocket Man.
~ the eltonshow.com
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‘Rocket Man: a Tribute to Elton John’ starred C.J. Marvin and featured the Crystal Ensemble of singers and dancers and the Crystal showband.
Jill and I are Elton fans, so we loved Marvin’s high-energy performance that covered four decades of music, with songs that included Tiny Dancer, Saturday Night’s Alright, Candle in the Wind, and others. 
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Rocket Man was the exclamation point on an ‘Oh, what a beautiful day—a day in which everything went my way!’
The Crystal Symphony set sail at 8PM. Tomorrow is a sea day—a day to relax—as the ship makes its way to Ho Chi Minh City, the first of three port stops in Vietnam. Stay tuned!
The Crystal Symphony set sail at 8PM. Tomorrow is a sea day—a day to relax—as the ship makes its way to Ho Chi Minh City, the first of three port stops in Vietnam. Stay tuned!