In June 2021, daughter Jill and I traveled to Georgia and South Carolina – a seven-day getaway to Savannah and Hilton Head Island. Click HERE to read a short introduction to our trip to Savannah and HERE to read about our experiences on Hilton Head.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our second day in Savannah.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our second day in Savannah.
Colonial Park Cemetery
Savannah, Georgia (Monday, June 7, 2021) Jill and I had great fun on our first day in Savannah. We enjoyed a gastronomical feast at The Lady & Sons, relaxed on a riverboat cruise aboard the Georgia Queen, and learned a bit about the history of Georgia’s first city.
By eight last evening, though, we were spent – plumb tuckered out after a stretch of 40 waking hours from the time we woke early Saturday morning. No wonder, then, that we slept twelve hours last night – dead as two logs until 9 this morning. It was a good thing, too, as we had a busy day of sightseeing and feasting ahead of us!
When we planned our getaway, Jill put me in charge of the tours. Well, truth be told, she put me in charge of finding possible tours, but reserved the right to reject any she did not like. (Wink-wink!) I floated a few possibilities for this day, and we agreed on two. One tour was a hit, the other a miss, and in between, we were pleasantly surprised by a down-home dining experience. So, to co-opt the lyrics by Meatloaf, at day’s end…
By eight last evening, though, we were spent – plumb tuckered out after a stretch of 40 waking hours from the time we woke early Saturday morning. No wonder, then, that we slept twelve hours last night – dead as two logs until 9 this morning. It was a good thing, too, as we had a busy day of sightseeing and feasting ahead of us!
When we planned our getaway, Jill put me in charge of the tours. Well, truth be told, she put me in charge of finding possible tours, but reserved the right to reject any she did not like. (Wink-wink!) I floated a few possibilities for this day, and we agreed on two. One tour was a hit, the other a miss, and in between, we were pleasantly surprised by a down-home dining experience. So, to co-opt the lyrics by Meatloaf, at day’s end…
…we weren’t sad, ‘cause two out of three ain’t bad!
Yesterday, on our riverboat cruise, Jill and I sailed past the backside of the Savannah Cotton Exchange building. When this building was completed in 1887, Savannah ranked first as a cotton seaport on the Atlantic and second in the world. As we made our way to Tondee’s, we stopped to admire the architectural details in the façade of this red brick building: copper finials and copings; terra cotta reliefs; iron window lintels; and massive red oak front doors. Loved it!
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Our foodie tour started at noon at Tondee’s Tavern on East Bay Street, a short walk from our hotel. We set out early to allow time for a photo op with Jill as the star – a few pics, including the one at the left, for her Instagram page. I am not saying this just because I am her dad, but Jill WAS as pretty as a picture!
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As a freelance journalist, Jill wrote on many topics, but travel and food were her favorites. There were many nouns that described her love of food, but the one I liked best was “foodie.” So, it was no surprise that Jill, after she read the online description for the three-hour Savannah Foodie Tour and Pub Crawl (award winning shrimp and grits, fried crab claws, Savannah’s best BBQ, and famous hand-made hot sauce), said to me, “Dad, we have to go on this tour!”
I am not a food connoisseur, but these mouthwatering descriptions prompted me to reply, “Sounds great. I will book it.”
I am not a food connoisseur, but these mouthwatering descriptions prompted me to reply, “Sounds great. I will book it.”
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We arrived at Tondee’s at the appointed hour, where we met our tour guide, Ro (short for Roman), and seven fellow gourmands.
Ro, an affable young man who was also a barista at a local bakery, announced, “We will visit five pubs and one specialty shop, where you will have the opportunity to try tasty bites at each and prosecco at one – all included in the price of your tour. You can also purchase drinks at any of the places we visit. Savannah,” he continued, “has an open container policy in the historic district, so you can carry and enjoy your drinks as we move from one pub to the next.” Ro also told us he was a Savannah history buff and would share some of what he knew along the way. |
In addition to Tondee’s, the establishments we visited were Dub’s Pub, Moon River Brewing Company, PS Tavern, Tandem Coffee & Spirits, and Hokulia Shave Ice.
SPOILER ALERT: This tour was our “miss” for the day.
Here were our bites:
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There were no crab legs, fried or otherwise. “Award winning”, “best” and “famous” were superlatives we did not discern from any of the bites. And what was up with shave ice – basically, a carnival snow cone – on a foodie tour?
None of the food blew us away…and food was, after all, THE reason we booked this tour.
To be fair, the online reviews for each pub were very good, and I felt certain our experience in all the pubs would have been different – better – had we had full meals. So, IMHO, the tour operator (the company, mind you, not Ro) was at fault – too much hype in their marketing materials for too little delivered. The cost of this tour, by the way, was $49 per person.
Bites aside, we enjoyed listening to the stories Ro shared. Some stories were about the pubs – for example, a ghost named Tony that haunted the billiard room at Moon River. Other stories – the ones I liked best – were about Savannah. These two were my favorites.
None of the food blew us away…and food was, after all, THE reason we booked this tour.
To be fair, the online reviews for each pub were very good, and I felt certain our experience in all the pubs would have been different – better – had we had full meals. So, IMHO, the tour operator (the company, mind you, not Ro) was at fault – too much hype in their marketing materials for too little delivered. The cost of this tour, by the way, was $49 per person.
Bites aside, we enjoyed listening to the stories Ro shared. Some stories were about the pubs – for example, a ghost named Tony that haunted the billiard room at Moon River. Other stories – the ones I liked best – were about Savannah. These two were my favorites.
These Roads Were Paved With Ballast
As we approached River Street, Ro (center photo below) commented, “This was where the colony of Georgia was founded by James Oglethorpe in 1733. It was also the location of the original Port of Savannah, where goods came in from Europe and cotton went out to the world.”
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“The cobblestones you are walking on,” he continued, “were ballast material from incoming ships – basalt, quartz, and other rocks collected before ships set sail for North America. The ballast was offloaded here and used by the locals to pave the roads and ramps that led from the river to the top of the bluff.”
Wow, I thought, early American ingenuity!
Wow, I thought, early American ingenuity!
The Reburial of Nathanael Greene
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We stopped at the Nathanael Green Monument, a 50-foot-tall granite shaft in the center of Johnson Square, the oldest of Savannah’s 22 squares.
“This monument,” began Ro, “honors Nathanael Greene, a general in the Continental Army during the American Revolution. Designed by William Strickland and completed in 1825, it is one of several monuments in the city that honor notable people from this war.” Yawn. So far, this was old information for Jill and me. But then he said… “Greene died in 1786 in nearby Mulberry Grove. He was buried in Colonial Park Cemetery but was reinterred under this monument in 1902, together with the remains of his son.” |
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Now Ro had my attention.
“In 2014,” Ro continued, “the Savannah Morning News reported that this was done because Greene and his son were buried together in the vault at Colonial Park, and it was not possible to distinguish the remains of one from the other.”
Very interesting! But wait…there was more to this story.
“Nathanael Greene and George Washington were close friends during and after the Revolutionary War,” Ro disclosed. “Perhaps to honor Washington, Greene named his son George Washington Greene. Some, though, believe that Washington might have fathered young Greene.”
Fact or fiction? It was hard to say. Either way, though, this was a titillating tale!
“In 2014,” Ro continued, “the Savannah Morning News reported that this was done because Greene and his son were buried together in the vault at Colonial Park, and it was not possible to distinguish the remains of one from the other.”
Very interesting! But wait…there was more to this story.
“Nathanael Greene and George Washington were close friends during and after the Revolutionary War,” Ro disclosed. “Perhaps to honor Washington, Greene named his son George Washington Greene. Some, though, believe that Washington might have fathered young Greene.”
Fact or fiction? It was hard to say. Either way, though, this was a titillating tale!
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When our tour ended, Jill and I rode Savannah’s Hop-On Hop-Off Trolley to Forsyth Park, the largest of three parks in the historic district.
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This lush expanse of trees, shrubs, and flowers had a beautiful centerpiece – a two-tiered basin fountain installed in 1858. There was an interesting story about this fountain, which I will share in a future post.
We enjoyed a leisurely walk from Forsyth Park back to Johnson Square. Along the way, we paused from time to time to admire the stately Colonial-era homes, many with lovely gardens, and monuments that we passed.
Armstrong Kessler Mansion
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Mercer Williams House
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William Jasper Monument
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Colonial Road Marker
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It was dinner time when we reached Johnson Square. Like a contestant on Who Wants to Be a Millionaire, Jill used a lifeline – Yelp – to find THE Southern fare we craved. “I found a seafood restaurant with great reviews,” she said. I was skeptical when I heard the name (it included “shack”), and even more so when we stepped inside (no ambience). But guess what? It was a great experience!
Savannah Seafood Shack…bears a closer resemblance to a Chipotle
than it does to anything you’d typically think of as a “seafood shack,”
but the customers keep coming back – and for good reason.
Conde Nast Traveler, 8 Best Seafood Restaurants in Savannah
than it does to anything you’d typically think of as a “seafood shack,”
but the customers keep coming back – and for good reason.
Conde Nast Traveler, 8 Best Seafood Restaurants in Savannah
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Savannah Seafood Shack, located on Broughton Street, was fast-casual all the way: It offered an informal setting with counter service and moderately priced food with better quality ingredients.
After a 45-minute wait, Jill and I were seated inside at a table near the window – and close to the counter where we could see the action. There was a continuous flow of customers who placed orders and staff who delivered their meals, and we saw a line of people outside who waited their turn for a table. |
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We perused the menu, which included Seafood Cones (homemade waffle cone filled with slaw and fried seafood – YUM!), Po’ Boys (hand-battered French bread stuffed with seafood – YUM!!), and Steamin’ Combos (boiled and steamed seafood – YUM!!!). But Jill, the connoisseur of great food, suggested another entree. “The Low Country Boil is a one-pot meal for the masses,” she said, “and a signature dish along the Georgia coast. You’ll love it!”
I read the description: Comes with shell-on shrimp, corn on the cob, premium beef sausage, and red potatoes. Topped with garlic butter and our house Cajun seasoning. With just the right amount of heat!
“Bring it on!” I replied, and with that I stepped up to the counter and ordered two single-serving size Low Country Boil and two glasses of Mountain Jam lager from Savannah’s Southbound Brewery. Our meals arrived in short order.
I read the description: Comes with shell-on shrimp, corn on the cob, premium beef sausage, and red potatoes. Topped with garlic butter and our house Cajun seasoning. With just the right amount of heat!
“Bring it on!” I replied, and with that I stepped up to the counter and ordered two single-serving size Low Country Boil and two glasses of Mountain Jam lager from Savannah’s Southbound Brewery. Our meals arrived in short order.
There was plenty of food (I lost track of the number of shrimp I ate), and it was seasoned just right. I used a plastic fork to eat the sausage and potatoes but dove into bowl with my fingers to snare the shrimp. It was a messy process – remember, the shrimp were shell-on – but the food was (with my apology to the Colonel) finger lickin’ good!
By the way, the single-serve size was only $12.95. (I could have spent $2 more for shrimp that was peeled and deveined, but heck, what fun would that have be?!)
As we finished our meal, Jill remarked, “Nothing fancy about it, but it was damn good seafood!” And I agreed.
Savannah Seafood Shack lived up to its reputation with this unexpectedly delightful meal.
By the way, the single-serve size was only $12.95. (I could have spent $2 more for shrimp that was peeled and deveined, but heck, what fun would that have be?!)
As we finished our meal, Jill remarked, “Nothing fancy about it, but it was damn good seafood!” And I agreed.
Savannah Seafood Shack lived up to its reputation with this unexpectedly delightful meal.
It was time for dessert, and Jill knew exactly where she wanted to go. We walked a block to the ever-popular Leopold’s Ice Cream shop. “Ever-popular” meant there was a long line that started twenty-five feet from the shop’s entrance. Patience, Howard, patience.
As we waited in line, I read the history of Leopold’s from the company’s website. It was founded in 1919 by three brothers from Greece – George, Peter, and Basil Leopold – who perfected their secret formulas and created the now world-famous Leopold’s Ice Cream. It was the era of streetcars, and two streetcar lines intersected near their shop. Many a rider would jump off the streetcar and entreat the motorman to wait as they got a frozen delight! Soda jerks (yes, this was the name for the people who worked the soda fountain) served malts, milk shakes, black and white sodas, and banana splits. Ice cream and sherbet molds were a holiday highlight in Savannah. All of Leopold’s ice cream was handcrafted, including Tutti Frutti, which had become a Leopold’s hallmark and Savannah favorite. Leopold’s was still family owned.
As we waited in line, I read the history of Leopold’s from the company’s website. It was founded in 1919 by three brothers from Greece – George, Peter, and Basil Leopold – who perfected their secret formulas and created the now world-famous Leopold’s Ice Cream. It was the era of streetcars, and two streetcar lines intersected near their shop. Many a rider would jump off the streetcar and entreat the motorman to wait as they got a frozen delight! Soda jerks (yes, this was the name for the people who worked the soda fountain) served malts, milk shakes, black and white sodas, and banana splits. Ice cream and sherbet molds were a holiday highlight in Savannah. All of Leopold’s ice cream was handcrafted, including Tutti Frutti, which had become a Leopold’s hallmark and Savannah favorite. Leopold’s was still family owned.
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When I reached the front of the line, a server (“soda jerk” was not PC!) asked, “What will it be.” There were many flavors to choose from, and since Jill was paying, I did not see any reason to limit myself to one.
“Two scoops on a waffle cone,” I replied. “Georgia Peach on the bottom and Tutti Frutti on top.” Check out the size of this cone! It was worth the wait, because the ice cream was deeeeelicious!! |
For some, a visit to Savannah is about learning the storied history
of this charming southern city; but for others, there’s a deep, dark past that
is just as intriguing. Considered to be one of the most haunted cities in
American, Savannah beckons paranormal enthusiasts and everyone
who’s the least bit curious about ghosts.
~ ghostsandgravestones.com
of this charming southern city; but for others, there’s a deep, dark past that
is just as intriguing. Considered to be one of the most haunted cities in
American, Savannah beckons paranormal enthusiasts and everyone
who’s the least bit curious about ghosts.
~ ghostsandgravestones.com
How fun, we thought, when Jill and I kicked around a ghost tour. “Another must do,” Jill declared, so I booked the 9 p.m. “Dead of Night” tour with Ghost City Tours.
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We met our tour guide, Devin, and twenty fellow tourists at Johnson Park. There were several tour groups this night, and while I had no way of knowing if the other guides were good (or not), I soon knew that Devin was a great guide. Why? Because she was a terrific storyteller! During the tour, Jill learned that Devin was a theater major at the Savannah College of Arts & Design, and that she loved to perform. Ahhh, I thought, Devin’s skills as a storyteller made perfect sense.
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Devin shared a handful of stories over the 90-minute tour. These two stories were my favorites.
The Ghost of Little Gracie Watson
This story was set in Johnson Square.
“Johnson Square is cursed,” Devin began. “Look around,” she challenged us, “and tell me something different about this square.”
“Johnson Square is cursed,” Devin began. “Look around,” she challenged us, “and tell me something different about this square.”
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Crickets for 30 seconds, and then someone said in a quiet voice, as if uncertain of their answer, “There is no Spanish moss in the trees.”
“Correct,” replied Devin. “You will find Spanish moss hanging from trees everywhere in the city, but you won’t see any here.” Devin paused (for dramatic effect?), until someone in our group bit. “Why?” came the question. “According to legend,” Devin answered, “Spanish moss does not grow where there is a haunting.” |
Well, she had my attention.
“Little Gracie Watson died two days before Easter in 1889,” said Devin. “Her parents managed the Pulaski Hotel, where Gracie was an unofficial greeter. That hotel, since demolished, was located here on Johnson Square.”
“To this day,” Devin continued, “people claim to see the ghost of Gracie Watson. Sometimes, Gracie sits quietly on a bench, while other times she runs through the park. And a few folks say that Gracie has interacted with them, much as she would have when she greeted hotel guests.”
BOO! (I ain’t ‘fraid of no ghosts, I muttered to myself.)
“Little Gracie Watson died two days before Easter in 1889,” said Devin. “Her parents managed the Pulaski Hotel, where Gracie was an unofficial greeter. That hotel, since demolished, was located here on Johnson Square.”
“To this day,” Devin continued, “people claim to see the ghost of Gracie Watson. Sometimes, Gracie sits quietly on a bench, while other times she runs through the park. And a few folks say that Gracie has interacted with them, much as she would have when she greeted hotel guests.”
BOO! (I ain’t ‘fraid of no ghosts, I muttered to myself.)
The Haunted Spirit of Alice Riley
Wright Square was the setting for the best story of the night.
“This square, one of the first in Savannah,” began Devin, “may be the most well-known of the haunted squares.”
“This square, one of the first in Savannah,” began Devin, “may be the most well-known of the haunted squares.”
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She pointed to a spot on the square near a tree and continued, “This was where the gallows once stood. Many lives were taken there. The most famous was Alice Riley, the first woman hanged in Georgia.”
“Alice and her common-law husband, Richard White, left Ireland and arrived in the newly-founded city of Savannah in the fall of 1733,” revealed Devin. “Both worked as indentured servants for William Wise, an unpopular, and some said unsavory, businessman. Alice was forced to bath William and comb the knots from his hair. There were rumors that William made lewd comments toward Alice and may have raped her.” |
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“Apparently this was more torment than Alice could bear,” said Devin. “In the spring of 1734, Alice and Richard strangled William with a necktie, drowned him in a bucket of water, and dumped his body in the Savannah River.”
But wait…there was more!
“Alice and Richard expected William’s body to float downriver,” Devin continued. “Instead, William’s body was found on the other side of the river, where it had washed up. It did not take the authorities long to implicate and arrest Alice and Richard. And soon they were sentenced to death by hanging.”
“While no one was sympathetic to Alice’s plight, she was able to postpone her sentence because she was pregnant,” Devin disclosed. “She was hanged in January 1735 after she gave birth to a son, James. Alice’s body hung from the gallows for three days and her son died two weeks later. Both were buried in a plot near Wright Square.”
“It was said that Alice cursed the people of Savannah as she was being hanged, and that her ghost still haunts Wright Square,” said Devin as her story drew to an end. “Some say Alice tries to take babies from their mother’s arms, while others swear she begs for help finding her own infant son.”
Boo! (I ain’t ‘fraid of no ghosts.)
But wait…there was more!
“Alice and Richard expected William’s body to float downriver,” Devin continued. “Instead, William’s body was found on the other side of the river, where it had washed up. It did not take the authorities long to implicate and arrest Alice and Richard. And soon they were sentenced to death by hanging.”
“While no one was sympathetic to Alice’s plight, she was able to postpone her sentence because she was pregnant,” Devin disclosed. “She was hanged in January 1735 after she gave birth to a son, James. Alice’s body hung from the gallows for three days and her son died two weeks later. Both were buried in a plot near Wright Square.”
“It was said that Alice cursed the people of Savannah as she was being hanged, and that her ghost still haunts Wright Square,” said Devin as her story drew to an end. “Some say Alice tries to take babies from their mother’s arms, while others swear she begs for help finding her own infant son.”
Boo! (I ain’t ‘fraid of no ghosts.)
Our tour ended near Savannah Seafood Shack, located across the street from the spooky-looking Marshall House, one of the oldest hotels in Savannah. Used as a hospital during the Civil War and through two yellow fever epidemics, the Marshall House was rumored to be haunted.
Ghostbusters!
If there's something strange
In your neighborhood
Who you gonna call?
Ghostbusters!
If there's something weird
And it don't look good
Who you gonna call?
Ghostbusters!
I ain't 'fraid of no ghost
I ain't 'fraid of no ghost
~ Ray Parker Jr., Ghostbusters
If there's something strange
In your neighborhood
Who you gonna call?
Ghostbusters!
If there's something weird
And it don't look good
Who you gonna call?
Ghostbusters!
I ain't 'fraid of no ghost
I ain't 'fraid of no ghost
~ Ray Parker Jr., Ghostbusters
Perhaps I will share the story of the Marshall House in a future post. For now, I can tell you that Jill and I loved the ghost stories and Devin’s storytelling. Without a doubt, this tour was rated two-thumbs up!
It was 10:30 – the end of another wonderful day – and time for bed.
We have a walking tour on tap for tomorrow morning, a couple of dining experiences, including lunch at one of Savannah’s premier restaurants, and some self-guided sightseeing in the afternoon. I look forward to sharing our experiences with you in my next story.
It was 10:30 – the end of another wonderful day – and time for bed.
We have a walking tour on tap for tomorrow morning, a couple of dining experiences, including lunch at one of Savannah’s premier restaurants, and some self-guided sightseeing in the afternoon. I look forward to sharing our experiences with you in my next story.