In May 2018, David and I went on a seven-day Scandinavian cruise on the Sapphire Princess. We sailed round trip from Southampton, England, with port stops in Belgium, Denmark, Sweden, and Norway. Click here to read a short introduction about this awesome cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Oslo, Norway, the fourth port of call on our cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Oslo, Norway, the fourth port of call on our cruise.
Oslo, Norway (May 31, 2018) David and I were excited as we approached Oslo, the last port of call on our seven-day Scandinavian cruise. Yes, we had a wonderful time in the other ports – Bruges, Copenhagen, and Helsingborg – where we saw some amazing sights, experienced the local culture, and enjoyed regional cuisine and beer. But Oslo was the port we’ve looked forward to most, and there we were!
I was on the top deck of the Sapphire Princess before six to watch our ship navigate the Skagerrak strait, which connects Oslo’s inner harbor to the North Sea. At this time of year, it was daylight for nearly 18 hours, from roughly 4 a.m. to 10 p.m. So, even at this early hour, the cloudless sky was bright and I was treated to the most beautiful scenery – houses nestled among tree-lined hills, fishing and recreational boats in the placid, blue water, and the emerging skyline of downtown Oslo.
I was on the top deck of the Sapphire Princess before six to watch our ship navigate the Skagerrak strait, which connects Oslo’s inner harbor to the North Sea. At this time of year, it was daylight for nearly 18 hours, from roughly 4 a.m. to 10 p.m. So, even at this early hour, the cloudless sky was bright and I was treated to the most beautiful scenery – houses nestled among tree-lined hills, fishing and recreational boats in the placid, blue water, and the emerging skyline of downtown Oslo.
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Oslo boasts that tourists can visit the city year-round because of its pleasant, temperate climate. Well, it wasn’t temperate today – in fact, the temperature, which was expected to reach the mid-80s in the afternoon, was more than 15 degrees higher than the average. But David and I were desert-dwellers from Phoenix, accustomed to hot-hot temperatures. We dressed accordingly and brought plenty of water for our self-guided tour.
Oslo, the capital and largest city in Norway (pop. 5.3 million), was founded in 1049 by King Harald Hardrada, the last Viking king. Like the fabled Phoenix, Oslo rose and rose again from the ashes of many fires that destroyed it over the next five hundred years. In 1624, King Christian IV of Denmark rebuilt Oslo after yet another devastating fire and named it Christiania. The city reverted to its original name in 1925.
Here are a couple of fun facts about Oslo.
Oslo, the capital and largest city in Norway (pop. 5.3 million), was founded in 1049 by King Harald Hardrada, the last Viking king. Like the fabled Phoenix, Oslo rose and rose again from the ashes of many fires that destroyed it over the next five hundred years. In 1624, King Christian IV of Denmark rebuilt Oslo after yet another devastating fire and named it Christiania. The city reverted to its original name in 1925.
Here are a couple of fun facts about Oslo.
- According to a recent study, Oslo ranked as the second healthiest city in the world (Amsterdam was first) based on annual sunshine hours, life expectancy, work-life balance, and other criteria.
- The sloped marble top of the city’s opera house, which you can see in the photo below, was designed to resemble an iceberg jutting into the harbor. Visitors are encouraged to climb the roof!
Akershus Fortress
We debarked from our cruise ship at seven for a day of sightseeing. After a 10-minute walk we arrived at our first stop, Akershus Fortress. The original fortress was built in the early 1300s by Haakon Magnusson the Elder, who was king of Norway from 1299 to 1319. It was used to protect Oslo from attack, primarily from Swedish forces given its proximity to Norway.
We debarked from our cruise ship at seven for a day of sightseeing. After a 10-minute walk we arrived at our first stop, Akershus Fortress. The original fortress was built in the early 1300s by Haakon Magnusson the Elder, who was king of Norway from 1299 to 1319. It was used to protect Oslo from attack, primarily from Swedish forces given its proximity to Norway.
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Haakon the Sixth, who succeeded his father as King of Norway, married the 10-year old Princess Margaret of Denmark in 1363, and the fortress soon became a royal residence. The castle was modernized during the 59-year reign of King Christian IV (1588 - 1648), and then converted to the Renaissance style in the 1600s. The fortress, which is still used as a military facility, houses the Royal Mausoleum. In the mausoleum are the remains of several members of Norway’s royalty, including King Sigurd I (1090 – 1130).
Unfortunately, the buildings were undergoing major repairs, so we couldn’t go inside. Perhaps just as well, because some visitors reported seeing ghosts! (Do you remember, “I ain’t afraid of no ghosts!”, sung by Ray Parker Jr?) David and I did the next best thing, though – we strolled the park-like areas outside the fortress, where we marveled at the arched gateways and seemingly impenetrable high walls.
Unfortunately, the buildings were undergoing major repairs, so we couldn’t go inside. Perhaps just as well, because some visitors reported seeing ghosts! (Do you remember, “I ain’t afraid of no ghosts!”, sung by Ray Parker Jr?) David and I did the next best thing, though – we strolled the park-like areas outside the fortress, where we marveled at the arched gateways and seemingly impenetrable high walls.
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The Viking Museum
It was a short walk to City Hall, where we caught the #30 bus to the Viking Ship Museum, located on the Bygdoy peninsula.
It was a short walk to City Hall, where we caught the #30 bus to the Viking Ship Museum, located on the Bygdoy peninsula.
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Let me say this: THE MUSEUM WAS WHY I WAS SO EXCITED TO BE IN OSLO! You see, over the past few years, I read the Saxon Stories, a series of historical novels (the saga of Uhtred of Bebbanburg) written by Bernard Cornwall about the history of Anglo-Saxon England in the 9th and 10th centuries – a period in which the Vikings were ruthless invaders of the lands that now comprised the British Isles. (I know - the Vikings were much maligned!) They arrived in their longboats, always ready to do battle. And so, it was a real treat for me to “give life” to the saga by Cornwall with a visit to the Viking Ship Museum!
The museum housed three well-preserved Viking longboats - the Gokstad (top left), Oseberg (right) and Tune (bottom left), all built in the early 800s/early 900s – and a variety of artifacts, including small boats, sleds, tools, textiles and more. The Gokstad was the largest of the ships –75 feet long with 18 oars on each side. With 2 men to an oar, there were 72 fierce Vikings on this ship.
The museum housed three well-preserved Viking longboats - the Gokstad (top left), Oseberg (right) and Tune (bottom left), all built in the early 800s/early 900s – and a variety of artifacts, including small boats, sleds, tools, textiles and more. The Gokstad was the largest of the ships –75 feet long with 18 oars on each side. With 2 men to an oar, there were 72 fierce Vikings on this ship.
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At some point in the life of each of these ships, they became burial tombs for their wealthy owners – partially concealed below ground and then covered in mounded dirt. The ships were in various states when unearthed between 1852 and 1904. The Oseberg, for example, was complete but crushed, and the pieces had to be slowly dried before it could be put back together. The ships were named, by the way, for the areas in which they were excavated.
As burial tombs, the ships were filled with the things you would need in the afterlife. Well, maybe not you and me, but certainly for a Viking – the aforementioned artifacts plus food and live animals (live, that is, at the time the longboats were loaded up and buried!).
As burial tombs, the ships were filled with the things you would need in the afterlife. Well, maybe not you and me, but certainly for a Viking – the aforementioned artifacts plus food and live animals (live, that is, at the time the longboats were loaded up and buried!).
The Vikings raided and traded their way across a large expanse - from Russia in the east to Canada in the west to the Mediterranean in the south. The Viking Age ended in the mid-11th century, about the time that King Hardrada founded Oslo.
David and I wandered the museum, where we looked at the ships from every angle, studied the artifacts, read the storyboards, and watched a few short videos. For me, this experience was like being at the Colosseum, Tower of London, Pompeii, and many other historical sites I’ve visited – an opportunity to see a civilization more than 1,000 years old through its remains. I was living Viking history – a truly great experience!
We stopped in the gift shop before we left, intent on finding "the right" souvenirs. David bought a couple of Viking figurines and, as you will see in a photo below, I found a Viking cap to add to my collection from places I've visited.
Downtown Oslo
We could easily have spent more time at the Viking Museum, but with a sense of adventure (were we Vikings now?!) and our itinerary in hand, we boarded a #30 bus and rode it back to downtown Oslo.
Even present-day Vikings must eat – after all, it takes quite a bit of energy to sightsee Oslo in a day. We found the perfect place for lunch – Albert Bistro, with a French-inspired menu. It is located along the wharf at the inner-harbor in Aker Brygge, a neighborhood with restaurants, shops, apartments, and office buildings.
David and I wandered the museum, where we looked at the ships from every angle, studied the artifacts, read the storyboards, and watched a few short videos. For me, this experience was like being at the Colosseum, Tower of London, Pompeii, and many other historical sites I’ve visited – an opportunity to see a civilization more than 1,000 years old through its remains. I was living Viking history – a truly great experience!
We stopped in the gift shop before we left, intent on finding "the right" souvenirs. David bought a couple of Viking figurines and, as you will see in a photo below, I found a Viking cap to add to my collection from places I've visited.
Downtown Oslo
We could easily have spent more time at the Viking Museum, but with a sense of adventure (were we Vikings now?!) and our itinerary in hand, we boarded a #30 bus and rode it back to downtown Oslo.
Even present-day Vikings must eat – after all, it takes quite a bit of energy to sightsee Oslo in a day. We found the perfect place for lunch – Albert Bistro, with a French-inspired menu. It is located along the wharf at the inner-harbor in Aker Brygge, a neighborhood with restaurants, shops, apartments, and office buildings.
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Being the Americans we were, David and I ordered open-faced roast beef sandwiches with fries and beer. The food was delicious! With patio seating that faced the wharf, we were in the ideal spot to people-watch. And for dessert? Well, looky-looky-looky – we spotted an ice cream truck along the wharf, a stone’s throw from the restaurant!
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Before we embarked on our cruise, I prepared a list of places to see in downtown Oslo. Now, David and I set out to see those places, the first of which was the Nobel Peace Center, a museum that showcases the Nobel Peace Prize. This was a photo op stop, although we did step inside the atrium and gift shop to have a look around.
And then, as we approached City Hall to continue our walking tour, we abruptly stopped, because in front of us was a small park with giant bronze and granite sculptures. I’m no prude, thank you, but I was taken aback to see that all the sculptures were sans clothing. (Tongue-in-cheek, mind you.) Isubsequently learned that Vigeland Park, which is located northwest of Oslo, had a collection of more than 200 bronze and granite sculptures by Gustav Vigeland – also all nude. Apparently nude sculptures were a big thing in Oslo!
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David and I walked past the National Theater (inaugural performance in 1899), with a peacock tail inspired fountain nearby. Soon, we stood in front of the Royal Palace (completed in the 1840s), which is located in a park-like setting at the top of Oslo's main street, Karl Johans gate. This street, which was named in honor of King Charles III John (1780 -1810), is lined with shops, restaurants, hotels, and offices. From the Palace we walked west to the Storting Building (built in 1866), which houses Norway’s Parliament.
David and I had quite the day in Oslo. We saw everything we wanted to see, plus a few things more, and we thoroughly enjoyed soaking up the local culture. David said it best: “Oslo was my favorite port stop! Good energy with lots to see and do, but not too big and not too busy. And green – certainly the land on either side of the fjord coming to and leaving the port, but also throughout the city as we traveled about.”
David and I were on deck as we sailed from Oslo late afternoon – a last look at this beautiful city.
David and I were on deck as we sailed from Oslo late afternoon – a last look at this beautiful city.
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Tomorrow is a "sea day" – a day for David and me to relax before we fly home to Phoenix. We've had a great trip, filled with wonderful experiences, great memories, and exciting stories to share with family and friends. This was David’s first trip to Europe, but surely not his last. And it wasn’t my last trip to Europe either – but I’ll share those stories with you another time.