In September 2019, Debra and I cruised the British Isles for 14 days on the Pacific Princess. We sailed round trip from Dover, with port stops in England, the Republic of Ireland, Wales, Northern Ireland, and Scotland. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this awesome cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day on Orkney, the ninth port of call
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day on Orkney, the ninth port of call
Kirkwall, Scotland (September 19, 2019) The Pacific Princess sailed overnight from Portree on the Isle of Skye and arrived in Kirkwall early this morning. It was cold and dreary – an overcast sky with a light rain and temperature in the mid-50s. No matter, though, as Debra and I layered and donned our rain gear before we disembarked to start a full day of sightseeing on a private tour with Simon Van Tromp, who I found through “Tours by Locals”. Here was how Simon greeted us:
“Welcome to Orkney. I am passionate about this island and all it has to offer you
as our guests. I am confident that our ‘Orkney time’ together will be one
of the best of your vacation.”
as our guests. I am confident that our ‘Orkney time’ together will be one
of the best of your vacation.”
Simon was an affable gent, knowledgeable, and a great guide. It was a pleasure to spend the day with him.
Orkney, by the way, is an archipelago – a group of 70 islands (20 inhabited) sometimes referred to as the Orkney Islands – off the northeastern coast of Scotland. It contains some of the oldest and best-preserved Neolithic sites in Europe. In fact, the “Heart of Neolithic Orkney,” which we visited today, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. More on this in a bit.
Orkney, by the way, is an archipelago – a group of 70 islands (20 inhabited) sometimes referred to as the Orkney Islands – off the northeastern coast of Scotland. It contains some of the oldest and best-preserved Neolithic sites in Europe. In fact, the “Heart of Neolithic Orkney,” which we visited today, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. More on this in a bit.
A Remarkable Church
We drove south from Kirkwall to the Island of Lamb Holm, which lies in Holm Sound at the eastern entrance to Scapa Flow, a sheltered body of water that served as a British naval base during the First and Second World Wars. In 1939, a German U-boat entered Scapa Flow and sank the British battleship HMS Royal Oak. Winston Churchill, who was First Sea Lord at the time, ordered that barriers be built to close off the entrance to the naval base.
We drove south from Kirkwall to the Island of Lamb Holm, which lies in Holm Sound at the eastern entrance to Scapa Flow, a sheltered body of water that served as a British naval base during the First and Second World Wars. In 1939, a German U-boat entered Scapa Flow and sank the British battleship HMS Royal Oak. Winston Churchill, who was First Sea Lord at the time, ordered that barriers be built to close off the entrance to the naval base.
This was a massive project that took four years to complete (1940 – 1944). With a shortage of manpower, most of the laborers were Italian prisoners of war captured in North Africa and brought to a camp on Lamb Holm. The barriers now serve as causeways that connect several islands, including Lamb Holm, to Mainland.
Interesting, huh? Yessiree. As they say in those infomercials, though, “But wait…there’s more!” And this, IMHO, was where this story REALLY got interesting.
Interesting, huh? Yessiree. As they say in those infomercials, though, “But wait…there’s more!” And this, IMHO, was where this story REALLY got interesting.
The camp commander allowed the prisoners to build a small chapel under the direction of three POWs: artist Domenico Chiachetti, blacksmith Giuseppe Palumbi, and cement worker Domenico Buttapasta. The aptly named Italian Chapel was built from two Nissen huts (prefabricated steel structures used as barracks) joined front to back. The Italians cast concrete blocks to create the beautiful façade, which included a bell tower and the face of Christ in terracotta above the front door.
|
Chiocchetti also created this statue of St. George slaying the dragon, which stood in the camp’s square.
With a full-day itinerary, we did not have time to go inside the chapel, where we would have seen a painting by Chiocchetti above the altar. Simon told us that members of Chiocchetti’s family still visit the island. |
|
Quite a story, right?!
Sheegs, or Were They Peeps?
It was a 30-minute drive northwest from the Italian Chapel to our next stop. As we approached the village of St. Mary’s, Simon asked if we would like to meet Peter and Brian. “Sounds like a singing duo from the 60s,” Debra said. “Not quite,” replied Simon.
|
|
Peter and Brian, you see, were a pair of large wooly animals that we might have mistaken for sheep if Simon hadn’t told us that they were pigs. Yes, pigs – a Hungarian breed of domestic pigs called Mangalica that were developed in the mid-19th century by crossbreeding a Hungarian pig with a European wild boar. We were amazed by their thick, curly coat of hair. Peter and Brian, who are true tourist attractions, are sometimes referred to as “the pig-sheep.” Cute!
Slainte Mhath
Of all the liquors I’ve tried, Scotch whisky was my favorite – and preferably a single malt. So when I set up our tour, I asked Simon to include a distillery on our itinerary. After all, what better souvenir from Scotland (for me, of course!) than a bottle (or two) of aged single malt Scotch whisky? By the way, did you notice that I spelled “whisky” without an “e” after the “k?” It’s not a typo – rather, this is the correct spelling in Scotland.
Of all the liquors I’ve tried, Scotch whisky was my favorite – and preferably a single malt. So when I set up our tour, I asked Simon to include a distillery on our itinerary. After all, what better souvenir from Scotland (for me, of course!) than a bottle (or two) of aged single malt Scotch whisky? By the way, did you notice that I spelled “whisky” without an “e” after the “k?” It’s not a typo – rather, this is the correct spelling in Scotland.
|
After we said goodbye to Peter and Brian, Simon stopped at two distilleries located near Kirkwall. The first was Highland Park. Licensed almost 200 years ago, it is the northernmost single malt Scotch whisky distillery in the world. It was a quick in-and-out for me – just enough time to purchase a bottle of their 12-year old Viking Honour.
|
The second distillery was Scapa, located a half mile south of Highland Park. It was founded in 1885. There, Debra and I tasted a few “production” whiskies, which were good. Then I sipped a 16-year old cask strength reserve edition not sold in the United States. At 50.9% ABV (more than 100 proof), it knocked my socks off. Cha-ching – my second souvenir!
As they say in Scotland, Slainte Mhath (“Cheers”)!
As they say in Scotland, Slainte Mhath (“Cheers”)!
Ancient Megaliths
Some 5,000 years ago, the prehistoric people of the Orkney Islands
began building extraordinary monuments out of stone. Each of the
four Heart of Neolithic Orkney sites is a masterpiece of Neolithic
design and construction in itself. But together they represent one
of the richest surviving Neolithic landscapes in Western Europe.
~ Historic Environment Scotland
began building extraordinary monuments out of stone. Each of the
four Heart of Neolithic Orkney sites is a masterpiece of Neolithic
design and construction in itself. But together they represent one
of the richest surviving Neolithic landscapes in Western Europe.
~ Historic Environment Scotland
The four sites are Skara Brae, a domestic settlement; Maeshowe, a chambered tomb; Standing Stones of Stenness, a henge; and Ring of Brodgar, a great stone circle. It was a short drive from Scapa Distillery to the Standing Stones of Stenness, the first of two Neolithic sites we saw today.
|
It was raining when we arrived at this henge monument, which is thought to be the oldest in the British Isles (3100 B.C., based on radiocarbon dating). Hoods up for Debra and me because we weren’t going to miss this experience!
|
|
Located on the southeastern shore of the Loch of Stenness, this great stone circle, with a diameter of about 100 feet, was once made up of 10 to 12 upright megaliths. Over time, most of the stones fell over, leaving just four standing stones. The word “stone,” by the way, was a bit of a misnomer, as all the standing stones were quite tall. As you can see in this photo, Debra and I were dwarfed by the tallest, which stood almost 19 feet high.
I know what you are thinking: “Howard, there are five standing stones in the photo above.” Not really, as the shortest one was the remains of an ancient hearth in the center of the circle. |
|
We asked Simon what this henge was used for? “Rites, rituals, and funerary purposes, possibly,” he said. “But no one knows for sure.”
Well, whatever their purpose, the megaliths were amazing and a sight to behold!
Well, whatever their purpose, the megaliths were amazing and a sight to behold!
Spectacular Coastline
Fifteen minutes further west, we reached Yesanby, an area on the coast of Mainland. Simon followed a road to a car park, and from there we walked a short distance along a coastal path to an observation point. Debra and I were awestruck by the scenery before us: towering red sandstone cliffs, rocky inlets, massive sea-stacks, white-capped waves. It was breathtaking!
Fifteen minutes further west, we reached Yesanby, an area on the coast of Mainland. Simon followed a road to a car park, and from there we walked a short distance along a coastal path to an observation point. Debra and I were awestruck by the scenery before us: towering red sandstone cliffs, rocky inlets, massive sea-stacks, white-capped waves. It was breathtaking!
|
|
|
From the cliffs at Yesnaby, we headed north to Orkney Brewery for lunch. Housed in a former schoolhouse, this was Orkney’s oldest brewery. We snagged a table near the hearth – the warmth of the fire felt great! As you can see from the line of tap handles at the bar, this brewery offered many choices. After I tasted each, I chose Northern Light. Named after the lights of the aurora, it was the most refreshing.
|
|
Debra, Simon, and I were of like mind for lunch - roast ham and Scottish cheddar cheese sandwiches served with cups of vegetable soup. As Debra would say, “comfort food.” The fare was good, the conversation better as Debra and I learned more about Simon, and he about us.
|
The Earl’s Palace
We passed the Loch of Boardhouse as Simon drove north from the brewery to the parish of Birsay. It was drizzling when we arrived, so Debra was content to stay in the car while I explored the ruins of a Renaissance palace built by Robert Stewart, Earl of Orkney and illegitimate son of James V, King of Scotland in the first half of the 16th century. |
|
|
|
I read several storyboards as I wandered the grounds. With gun holes near ground level on every wall, the two-story palace, constructed around a central courtyard, was as much a fortress as a residence. Apparently, the Earl had many enemies! Built between 1569 and 1574, it was abandoned when the Stewart earls were overthrown in 1615. Perhaps not the highlight of our day, but interesting, nonetheless.
|
Debra had been searching for a piece of a Watermelon Tourmaline at home without success. With a pink center and green perimeter, this type of Tourmaline is a “powerful heart stone that helps calm and soothe one’s emotions.” When I reached the car, Simon pointed me to a small grey shed that housed Ostara Crystals. The sign out front proclaimed, “Rocks, Fossils, Crystals, Jewelry.” I found Debra inside, talking with Roy, the proprietor. Call it kismet, as this was where she found a piece of Watermelon Tourmaline. Does she look happy, or what?!
|
|
A Great Stone Circle
Orkney folklore has it that these standing stones were once giants. It is
said that one night, forgetful of the time as they reveled in their ring
dance, the giants were caught unaware by the rising sun and
turned to stone. And here they must stand forever.
~ Unknown Source
said that one night, forgetful of the time as they reveled in their ring
dance, the giants were caught unaware by the rising sun and
turned to stone. And here they must stand forever.
~ Unknown Source
From the northwestern tip of Mainland, Simon drove south to Stromness, where the Ring of Brogdar stands on a strip of land that separates the Harray and Stenness lochs. This stone circle, thought to be erected between 2500 BC and 2000 BC, has been called “one of the most spectacular prehistoric monuments in the British Isles.”
It was raining yet again, so Debra said “Have fun” when Simon stopped near the entrance to the Ring of Brogdar. And fun I had as I explored this massive stone circle that sat atop a mound surrounded by a stone-cut ditch.
The Ring of Brodgar was built in a true circle. With a diameter of 340 feet, it is the third largest stone circle in the British Isles. Originally, there may have been as many as 60 evenly spaced stones; today, there are 27, ranging in height from 7 to 15 feet.
The Ring of Brodgar was built in a true circle. With a diameter of 340 feet, it is the third largest stone circle in the British Isles. Originally, there may have been as many as 60 evenly spaced stones; today, there are 27, ranging in height from 7 to 15 feet.
The mound was roped off – no public access – so I walked the perimeter with an unfettered view of all the stones. I was struck by the variation – not only in height, but also shape and thickness. And I could only imagine the effort required to build the circle – most likely, it took thousands of man days over many years to complete. Then that age-old question came to mind. What was the purpose of this ring? Like the Standing Stones of Stenness (and other henges), no one really knows.
|
|
The Ring of Brodgar was an amazing historical site. And despite the rain, it was a fun experience!
The Capital City
The Capital City
|
As I looked back on our day on Orkney, I realized that Debra and I did a lot of sightseeing. But we still had one more stop before we reboarded the Pacific Princess – the town of Kirkwall, which is the capital city of Orkney.
|
|
Founded by the Norse in the 11th century, its name came from the Old Norse word “kirkja,” a reference to the 11th century church of Saint Olaf of Norway. Kirkwall became a royal burgh in 1486 during the reign of King James III of Scotland.
The sun shone as Simon dropped Debra and me on Broad Street near town center, where we had an hour of free time before we had to return to the ship. As we stepped away from Simon’s car, we saw that Broad Street was lined with a diverse range of businesses – boutiques, cafes, restaurants, hotels, a museum, and a beautiful cathedral.
|
Debra and I love to visit churches as we travel, so we crossed Broad Street to St. Magnus Cathedral. St. Magnus was founded in 1137 by the Viking Earl Rognvald to honor his uncle, Magnus Erlendsson, who was martyred in Orkney. It was nicknamed the “Light in the North” because it was the most northerly cathedral in Britain.
Built from red and yellow sandstone, the Cathedral was originally part of the Archdiocese of Norway, as Orkney did not become part of Scotland until 1468. Today, the Cathedral is multi-denominational. |
|
|
|
The interior of the Cathedral was striking, with its exposed stone walls, woodwork, high arched ceilings, stained glass windows, and wonderful symmetry. We saw memorial markers of people interred within the Cathedral as early as the 1700s and watched an artist paint a scene of the interior on canvas.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
We crossed Palace Road for a quick look at the ruins of Bishop’s Palace (12th century) and Earl’s Palace (17th century), and then backtracked to Broad Street where we meandered in and out of several shops.
|
|
|
The hour went by too quickly, and soon we were back on board the Pacific Princess. We enjoyed a quiet dinner at Panorama Buffet and later listened to vocal entertainer and musical artist Ollie Mulkeen in the Cabaret Lounge.
|
|
With clear weather as the Pacific Princess sailed from Orkney, we were treated to another beautiful sunset. The orange and amber glow of the sun seemed to reach across the ocean to our ship.
Today was an amazing day of sights and experiences. Simon was right - he did make our ‘Orkney time’ memorable!