In December 2019, Debra and I went on a 14-day Panama Canal cruise. We sailed from Los Angeles to Ft. Lauderdale on the Emerald Princess, with port stops in Mexico, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, and Columbia. And, we spent a day traversing the Panama Canal through the new locks, from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Ocean. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this memorable cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Nicaragua, the third port of call on our cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Nicaragua, the third port of call on our cruise.
San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua (December 10, 2019) The Emerald Princess was at sea yesterday as it sailed southeast from Hualtulco, Mexico, past Guatemala and El Salvador. And a relaxing day at sea it was! Debra and I spent much of the day on the Promenade Deck, where we enjoyed a cool ocean breeze as we read novels and talked with fellow passengers. One of the passengers was David from Reno, who told us how he uses Chukars (a partridge originally from Turkey) to train his hunting dogs. We never know what we will learn from others!
Debra and I had an early dinner in Horizon Court so that we could attend a concert starring Teacake (yes, that is her real name!). The “Duchess of Soul” sang hit songs from Aretha Franklin, Whitney Houston, and other divas. We sat front row, and for one song, Teacake offered her mic to Debra (that’s the back of her head in the photo) and another passenger. It looked like Teacake was surprised that they took her up on her offer! She (Teacake, that is) was a wonderful singer and a pleasure to listen to. We talked with her after the show, and she was kind enough to pose with Debra.
Debra and I had an early dinner in Horizon Court so that we could attend a concert starring Teacake (yes, that is her real name!). The “Duchess of Soul” sang hit songs from Aretha Franklin, Whitney Houston, and other divas. We sat front row, and for one song, Teacake offered her mic to Debra (that’s the back of her head in the photo) and another passenger. It looked like Teacake was surprised that they took her up on her offer! She (Teacake, that is) was a wonderful singer and a pleasure to listen to. We talked with her after the show, and she was kind enough to pose with Debra.
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We arrived in San Juan Del Sur (pop. 8,000), Nicaragua’s most-visited beach town on the Pacific coast, earlier this morning. The town traces its roots to 1523, when it was discovered by Spanish explorer Andres Nino.
Here’s a piece of trivia about San Juan Del Sur: It does not use numbered street addresses. Instead, directions are given using nearby landmarks!
One of the joys of cruising for me is watching our ship sail into port, and that was what I did this morning as we entered the crescent-shaped bay of San Juan Del Sur. Off to my left I spotted an alabaster statue high atop the cliff at the northwestern edge of the bay. Unfortunately, it was too far for me to make out. I had my suspicions though, which I confirmed later in the day: it was a statue of Jesus. Titled Cristo del la Misericordia (“Christ of the Mercy”), the statue was installed in 2009. It is 79-feet tall, making it one of the tallest statues of Jesus in the world. Can you see the statue to the right of center in the photo below?
Here’s a piece of trivia about San Juan Del Sur: It does not use numbered street addresses. Instead, directions are given using nearby landmarks!
One of the joys of cruising for me is watching our ship sail into port, and that was what I did this morning as we entered the crescent-shaped bay of San Juan Del Sur. Off to my left I spotted an alabaster statue high atop the cliff at the northwestern edge of the bay. Unfortunately, it was too far for me to make out. I had my suspicions though, which I confirmed later in the day: it was a statue of Jesus. Titled Cristo del la Misericordia (“Christ of the Mercy”), the statue was installed in 2009. It is 79-feet tall, making it one of the tallest statues of Jesus in the world. Can you see the statue to the right of center in the photo below?
The day was hot and humid – already the temperature was nearly 80 and the humidity was 70%. The afternoon forecast was 88 degrees and 80+% humidity. Oh, how we longed for the “dry heat” back home!
The town’s pier is too shallow for cruise ships, so the Emerald Princess anchored in the bay. Around nine, Debra and I went ashore on a tender boat to begin a full-day excursion. On shore, we were entertained by a group of mujeres y hombres jovenes (“young women and men”) who performed a traditional Nicaraguan dance, “Las Inditas.” The constant smiles on their faces seemed to say, “Hot? Humid? Not for us!” It was a real treat to watch them.
The town’s pier is too shallow for cruise ships, so the Emerald Princess anchored in the bay. Around nine, Debra and I went ashore on a tender boat to begin a full-day excursion. On shore, we were entertained by a group of mujeres y hombres jovenes (“young women and men”) who performed a traditional Nicaraguan dance, “Las Inditas.” The constant smiles on their faces seemed to say, “Hot? Humid? Not for us!” It was a real treat to watch them.
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We located our tour guide, who introduced himself as Alex. He was young (28, as I recall), affable, and a fount of knowledge about Nicaragua past and present. Later in the day, Alex told us his real name: Moises Mavar. He asked me my name, and later sent a Facebook friend request to me. I gladly accepted!
Mirador de Catarina
We drove through the countryside and past small villages and towns on our way to Catarina (pop. 4,500). There we stopped at Mirador (“Lookout”) de Catarina, a popular observation point that overlooks Laguna de Apoyo. The lagoon sits in the center of a volcanic crater that was formed about 23 thousand years ago.
From the observation point, Debra and I scanned the horizon. Ahead of us we saw the colonial city of Granada and Lake Nicaragua, the largest freshwater lake in Central America. To our right was the Mombacho Volcano; nearly 4,400 feet high, it last erupted in 1570. Initially, we were disappointed that the top of the volcano was covered by clouds. When we asked Moises about this, he told us that this was a “cloud forest” that continuously occupies much of the sides and top of this volcanic mountain. Later, I learned the meteorological definition of a cloud forest – a moist tropical forest characterized by persistent low-level clouds. Time permitting, I would have loved to walk among the clouds on the trails that run through the forest!
We drove through the countryside and past small villages and towns on our way to Catarina (pop. 4,500). There we stopped at Mirador (“Lookout”) de Catarina, a popular observation point that overlooks Laguna de Apoyo. The lagoon sits in the center of a volcanic crater that was formed about 23 thousand years ago.
From the observation point, Debra and I scanned the horizon. Ahead of us we saw the colonial city of Granada and Lake Nicaragua, the largest freshwater lake in Central America. To our right was the Mombacho Volcano; nearly 4,400 feet high, it last erupted in 1570. Initially, we were disappointed that the top of the volcano was covered by clouds. When we asked Moises about this, he told us that this was a “cloud forest” that continuously occupies much of the sides and top of this volcanic mountain. Later, I learned the meteorological definition of a cloud forest – a moist tropical forest characterized by persistent low-level clouds. Time permitting, I would have loved to walk among the clouds on the trails that run through the forest!
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There was a small marketplace nearby, and many roving vendors selling necklaces, snacks, and more. At one stall I bought a small piece of pottery, and at another a baseball cap (for my ever-growing collection) in the colors of the Nicaraguan flag, with “Nicaragua” written across the brim.
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The Colonial City of Granada
It was a 30-minute ride from Catarina to Granada (pop. 90,000), and Moises used this time to tell us a bit about the history of Granada. Here are two of the things we learned.
Granada was founded by Conquistador Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba in 1524, which makes it the oldest city in Nicaragua and one of the oldest European-settled cities in the Americas. Nicaragua honored Cordoba in 1912 by issuing a new currency, the cordoba. Today, one cordoba equals three cents. The cap I bought earlier was 167 cordoba, or five dollars.
The city was devastated in 1856 by mercenary and self-declared president of Nicaragua William Walker, a physician, lawyer, journalist, and adventurer from Tennessee. Walker led several military expeditions into Central America in an attempt to gain control of the lands for the purpose of making them a part of the United States, and in 1855 he seized control of Granada. However, this didn’t sit well with the leaders of other Central American countries, who banded together to drive Walker out. As Walker retreated from Granada, he left a detachment with orders to level the city. They smashed, burned, and otherwise flattened Granada. Fortunately, the city recovered.
It was a 30-minute ride from Catarina to Granada (pop. 90,000), and Moises used this time to tell us a bit about the history of Granada. Here are two of the things we learned.
Granada was founded by Conquistador Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba in 1524, which makes it the oldest city in Nicaragua and one of the oldest European-settled cities in the Americas. Nicaragua honored Cordoba in 1912 by issuing a new currency, the cordoba. Today, one cordoba equals three cents. The cap I bought earlier was 167 cordoba, or five dollars.
The city was devastated in 1856 by mercenary and self-declared president of Nicaragua William Walker, a physician, lawyer, journalist, and adventurer from Tennessee. Walker led several military expeditions into Central America in an attempt to gain control of the lands for the purpose of making them a part of the United States, and in 1855 he seized control of Granada. However, this didn’t sit well with the leaders of other Central American countries, who banded together to drive Walker out. As Walker retreated from Granada, he left a detachment with orders to level the city. They smashed, burned, and otherwise flattened Granada. Fortunately, the city recovered.
We arrived in Granada in time for lunch, which was prearragned for us at La Gran Francia (“The Great France”). I thought it a strange name for a restaruant (and inn) located in a city founded by the Spanish, but soon learned the reason why. According to a historian, French Duke Georges Choisseul Praslin (1825-1882) lived here before his death after he feigned his suicide and fled to Nicaragua to escape charges that he had murdered his wife. Wow! That's the stuff that novels are made of. And in fact, there is a historical novel about these events – Las Fiebres de la Memoria (“The Fevers of Memory”), written by Nicaraguan author Gioconda Belli.
During lunch, Debra and I were entertained by young women and men who danced to the music of the marimba and cuatro played by a father and his son. I kept beat to the music with my foot as I watched this lively and entertaining performance.
During lunch, Debra and I were entertained by young women and men who danced to the music of the marimba and cuatro played by a father and his son. I kept beat to the music with my foot as I watched this lively and entertaining performance.
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We had a taste of Granada as we drove into the city – narrow streets, ornate churches (including Iglesia la Merced, or “Church of Mercy”), colorful colonial architecture, and streetside vendors. (The modern world collided with the colonial world in many ways, not the least of which were the ever-present electrical wires that photobombed my pics of the church!)
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With an hour of free time after lunch, Debra and I had the opportunity to see more as we wandered among the buildings that surround the city’s Parque Central.
We couldn’t miss Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral, with its two tall spires and central dome topped in red and a façade painted in a distinctive yellow and white. While there has been a church on this site since the late 1500s, the current cathedral was largely completed in 1915. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to go inside as it was closed for repairs.
We couldn’t miss Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral, with its two tall spires and central dome topped in red and a façade painted in a distinctive yellow and white. While there has been a church on this site since the late 1500s, the current cathedral was largely completed in 1915. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to go inside as it was closed for repairs.
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In the square was a beautiful statue that held our attention - a mother holding a child. The words “A LA MADRE TODA ABNEGACION Y AMORE” were inscribed on the base – “MOTHER OF ALL DEVOTION AND LOVE”. Absolutley wonderful sentiment!
On the western side of the park, we spotted a line of brightly painted horse-drawn carriages. No time for a ride today…although I did have a few minutes to “hang out” in a swinging chair on a covered patio across from the carriages! The eastern side of the park melds into Plaza de Independencia (“Independence Square”). There we saw an obelisk monument erected to commemorate the 1811 Independence Movement against Spanish colonialism in Central America. |
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Being in Granada was like stepping into its past. I loved it!
Playa la Virgin
Moises had one more stop for us as we made our way back to San Juan Del Sur. It was a photo op at Playa la Virgen (“Virgin Beach”), which lies along the western shore of Lake Nicaragua. As Debra and I looked to the east, we saw two volcanic mountains – Concepcion (to the left in the photo below) and Maderas – about 12 miles offshore. Together, they form the island of Ometepe. Concepcion, with an elevation of almost 5,300 feet, is the taller of the two. It is an active volcano that last erupted in 2007. Maderas, which is topped by a cloud forest, is about 4,400 feet high. While it too is classified as active, it is believed that Maderas last erupted more than 3,000 years ago. The volcanoes were a beautiful backdrop to a photo of Debra – the perfect memento of our day in Nicaragua.
Moises had one more stop for us as we made our way back to San Juan Del Sur. It was a photo op at Playa la Virgen (“Virgin Beach”), which lies along the western shore of Lake Nicaragua. As Debra and I looked to the east, we saw two volcanic mountains – Concepcion (to the left in the photo below) and Maderas – about 12 miles offshore. Together, they form the island of Ometepe. Concepcion, with an elevation of almost 5,300 feet, is the taller of the two. It is an active volcano that last erupted in 2007. Maderas, which is topped by a cloud forest, is about 4,400 feet high. While it too is classified as active, it is believed that Maderas last erupted more than 3,000 years ago. The volcanoes were a beautiful backdrop to a photo of Debra – the perfect memento of our day in Nicaragua.
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We arrived back in San Juan Del Sur late afternoon. In all, we traveled about 130 miles. Many of those miles were on a portion of the Pan-American Highway, a network of roads that stretch from Alaska in the north to Argentina in the south. It was interesting to contemplate this connection amongst the Americas – North, Central and South.
Aboard the Emerald Princess
The Emerald Princess set sail at six on its way to the next port of call – Puntaneras, Costa Rica. It’ll arrive early tomorrow morning.
Debra and I had a relaxing evening after a busy day of sightseeing. We saw vocalist and instrumentalist Paul Koudouris perform for the second time. He sang a bit of opera, a few songs from Broadway plays, and some country and western, often accompanying himself on the guitar, ukulele, or piano. He was a very talented performer and a lot of fun to watch and listen to. Afterwards we had dinner in the Da Vinci Dining Room, and then listened to music in one of the lounges.
Aboard the Emerald Princess
The Emerald Princess set sail at six on its way to the next port of call – Puntaneras, Costa Rica. It’ll arrive early tomorrow morning.
Debra and I had a relaxing evening after a busy day of sightseeing. We saw vocalist and instrumentalist Paul Koudouris perform for the second time. He sang a bit of opera, a few songs from Broadway plays, and some country and western, often accompanying himself on the guitar, ukulele, or piano. He was a very talented performer and a lot of fun to watch and listen to. Afterwards we had dinner in the Da Vinci Dining Room, and then listened to music in one of the lounges.
We had a wonderful day, filled with new sights and experiences that created lasting memories of our time in Nicaragua!