In January and February 2020, Debra and I cruised the Hawaiian Islands on the Star Princess. We sailed round trip from Los Angeles, with island port stops on The Big Island, Oahu, Kauai, and Maui. The final stop on our 15-day cruise was Ensenada, Mexico. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this memorable cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day on Maui, the last port stop in Hawaii.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day on Maui, the last port stop in Hawaii.
Lahaina, Maui (February 5, 2020) This morning we arrived at Lahaina, the largest town (pop. 12,000) on Maui. The temperature was 70 degrees and there were puffy white clouds that hung over the mountains in an otherwise deep blue sky. As I love to say, the weather was picture-perfect for an outing on Hawaii’s second largest island!
Maui is also the second youngest of the main islands – if you call 800,000 to 1.3 million years old “young!” Resembling the head and torso of a person, Maui was formed when two shield volcanos (a low-profile volcano that resembles a warrior’s shield lying on the ground) overlapped one another. Geologists refer to this as a “volcanic doublet.” The overlap created an isthmus between the western and eastern peninsulas – a low-lying central valley that gave Maui its nickname, the “Valley Isle.”
I went to Maui to stay a week and remained five. I never spent so
pleasant a month before or bade any place goodbye so regretfully.
~ Mark Twain
pleasant a month before or bade any place goodbye so regretfully.
~ Mark Twain
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Debra and I visited Maui five times (this was the sixth) – all one day stops as we cruised the Islands. We saw much, but not all, of what Maui offers one-day tourists, so Debra opted to relax on board the Star Princess while I went on a guided tour of Iao Valley State Park and Maui Tropical Plantation.
Lahaina, which was the capital of the Kingdom of Hawaii from 1825 – 1845, is a "tender" port. With the Star Princess anchored offshore, passengers were shuttled to (and from) the pier on small boats. I caught a ride late morning. The water was placid, and with a slight breeze, the 15-minute boat ride to town was comfortable and relaxing. |
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I spotted Front Street as I stepped off the tender. Lined with stores and restaurants, it is the perfect tourist trap, and many one-day tourists venture no further. This was never me. Day’s past on Maui always included sightseeing outside of Lahaina AND time to wander along Front Street. No time to stroll this morning, though, as my chariot (a coach bus) awaited me. So, as Arnold Schwarzenegger said in the 1985 sci-fi film The Terminator, “I’ll be back.”
We drove east from Lahaina on Hawaii Route 30, also known as Honoapi’ilani Highway – the verdant foothills of the West Maui Mountains were to my left and the deep blue water of the Pacific Ocean was to my right. The views were outstanding!
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Route 30 turned inland (north) as we neared Maalaea Bay on the south shore of the isthmus. We passed King Kamehameha Golf Club (I certain that King “K”, the first ruler of the Kingdom of Hawaii, was not a member of this club!) and Maui Tropical Plantation (the second stop of the tour). Soon we arrived in Iao Valley, located in Wailuku Town. Pronounced “EE-ow,” the valley’s name is Hawaiian for “cloud supreme.”
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Iao Valley, which Mark Twain called “the Yosemite of the Pacific,” was formed when the caldera (crater) of the western volcano eroded, creating a deep, narrow gorge five miles long. The valley, which is covered in dense rainforest, is the second wettest location in Hawaii – the average annual rainfall is 386 inches, more than 1 inch of rain per day! It doesn’t rain every day, though. Lono-makua, the Hawaiian god of rainfall (and fertility, agriculture, music, and peace), blessed our tour group with a dry day!
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Iao Valley State Park
Designated a National Natural Landmark in 1972, Iao Valley is home to the 4,000-acre Iao Valley State Park.
The parking lot was situated within the caldera of the long-dormant volcano, which meant that I stood inside the volcano when I took this panoramic view soon after I stepped off the bus. How cool was that?!
Designated a National Natural Landmark in 1972, Iao Valley is home to the 4,000-acre Iao Valley State Park.
The parking lot was situated within the caldera of the long-dormant volcano, which meant that I stood inside the volcano when I took this panoramic view soon after I stepped off the bus. How cool was that?!
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I followed a paved path, which was lined with storyboards about the geology and history of Iao Valley, to an observation point. There, I turned 180 degrees and was rewarded with a stunning view of the lush valley.
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Up, up, up a stone staircase I went to a ridge-top lookout that provided an incredible view of the majestic Iao Needle, the iconic landmark and main attraction in the park. This phallic-like "monument," a 1,200-foot tall rocky remnant of a volcanic eruption, was used as a lookout by warriors during periods of tribal warfare. It was a wonder to me, as I gazed upon Iao Needle, how any warrior reached the top!
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Down, down, down the stone staircase I went to a path that meandered through a botanical garden and then past a stream in the woods. It was sooooo peaceful!
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All too soon, it was time to reboard the bus for our second destination.
Maui Tropical Plantation
Despite many visits to Maui, this was my 1st time at the plantation.
Soon after we arrived, we boarded a tram for a 30-minute narrated ride through the inner area of the 1,800-acre plantation. We saw examples of many of the plants and fruits from the island – pineapple, coconut, papaya, mango, banana, sugar cane, and more. We also watched a demonstration on how to de-husk and crack open a coconut. It was fascinating!
Despite many visits to Maui, this was my 1st time at the plantation.
Soon after we arrived, we boarded a tram for a 30-minute narrated ride through the inner area of the 1,800-acre plantation. We saw examples of many of the plants and fruits from the island – pineapple, coconut, papaya, mango, banana, sugar cane, and more. We also watched a demonstration on how to de-husk and crack open a coconut. It was fascinating!
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After the tour, I used my free time to buy a cup of 100% Kona Coffee at The Mill House Roasting Company café. The taste was big and flavorful! The I wandered through the retail shop, where I made a few small purchases.
Was the plantation exciting? No. Was it interesting? Yes, and so I was glad that I finally visited this popular destination.
Was the plantation exciting? No. Was it interesting? Yes, and so I was glad that I finally visited this popular destination.
A Look Back on Haleakala
As we drove to Lahaina, our tour guide pointed out Haleakala (“House of the Sun”), the volcanic mountain on Maui’s eastern peninsula (the “torso”). At more than 10,000 feet above sea level, Haleakala, which last erupted between 1480 and 1600, is the tallest mountain on Maui. And measured from the ocean’s floor, Haleakala is nearly 30,000 feet tall, which makes it taller than Mount Everest!
As we drove to Lahaina, our tour guide pointed out Haleakala (“House of the Sun”), the volcanic mountain on Maui’s eastern peninsula (the “torso”). At more than 10,000 feet above sea level, Haleakala, which last erupted between 1480 and 1600, is the tallest mountain on Maui. And measured from the ocean’s floor, Haleakala is nearly 30,000 feet tall, which makes it taller than Mount Everest!
In 1999, son David (then 16) and I cruised down the mountain on fixed-gear bikes. The route, which started near the mountain’s summit, was nearly downhill all the way – we were propelled by gravity, more than by pedaling, as we navigated through the scenic countryside of Upcountry Maui. It was a rush, and an unforgettable experience!
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Lahaina
Lahaina is a compact town of historic buildings, oceanfront shops, art galleries, and restaurants. I have always found it easy and fun to walk around, even when crowded with thousands of passengers from cruise ships. The Star Princess (2,600 passengers) was the only cruise ship in port this day, so the crowd seemed “thinner” than usual.
As I exited the bus, which dropped us near the inner harbor, I spotted the Lahaina Courthouse. It was built in the 1920s on the site of the mid-18th century courthouse, which was destroyed by a fierce wind. Restored in 1998, the two-story Courthouse housed a visitor center, arts society gallery, and offices.
Lahaina is a compact town of historic buildings, oceanfront shops, art galleries, and restaurants. I have always found it easy and fun to walk around, even when crowded with thousands of passengers from cruise ships. The Star Princess (2,600 passengers) was the only cruise ship in port this day, so the crowd seemed “thinner” than usual.
As I exited the bus, which dropped us near the inner harbor, I spotted the Lahaina Courthouse. It was built in the 1920s on the site of the mid-18th century courthouse, which was destroyed by a fierce wind. Restored in 1998, the two-story Courthouse housed a visitor center, arts society gallery, and offices.
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From the Courthouse I walked to the most famous landmark in Lahaina – the 150-year old banyan tree in Banyan Park. This tree is ENORMOUS: It has 16 trunks, stands more than 60 feet tall, and has a “crown spread” (30 yards in all directions from the main trunk) that is a quarter mile in circumference! A mere eight-foot sapling when planted in 1873, this banyan tree grew to become the largest in the United States and one of the largest in the world. Thinking about a banyan tree in your yard? You better have plenty of room!
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I stopped in several retail shops as I strolled along Front Street, as I was on a mission with critically important objectives: find an island ballcap and island-made bracelet. I soon found the perfect ballcap in an ABC Store. (The joke in Hawaii is that ABC stands for “All Blocks Covered,” as there seemed to be a store on every corner of every island!)
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As I continued my walk north on Front Street, I passed the Baldwin House Museum. Built in the 1830s, it is the oldest house still standing on Maui. The Reverend Dwight Baldwin, a medical missionary, and his family occupied this house from the late 1830s to 1868. Immediately next door was the Master’s Reading Room, which was used as an officers’ club for sailors and their families.
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I got to the end of Front Street and still had not found an island-made bracelet, and I began to think that I was out of luck. Halfway back on the other side of the street, though, I spotted an outdoor display of beaded bracelets. Now, were these island-made? Why yes, they were, by local artist Ayla! I asked if she would make a unique bracelet for me while I waited, and she said “Of course.” SUCCESS! I selected three types of beads for my bracelet: howlite (aka “white turquoise”), mango wood, and lava rock. The lava rock was from Belarus, as you cannot buy (or take) Island lava.
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Back on Board the Star Princess
I caught a late-afternoon tender to the Star Princess, where I regaled Debra with tales about my day on Maui. After cocktails in the Wheelhouse Bar and dinner at Portofino, we saw Rock’n Royalty, a musical show that featured singer Stephanie Hodgdon in her tribute to the “Kings and Queens” of rock and roll. It was high-energy, high-volume, and hard rock…and lots of fun! |
I had a wonderful day on Maui, our last island port, and a great evening on board the Star Princess. Tomorrow will be the first of four sea days as we cruise to Ensenada, Mexico, the last port of call on our Hawaiian cruise.