In May 2016, Debra and I took a 12-day cruise of the eastern Mediterranean. We sailed from the seaport town of Civitavecchia (north of Rome) to Barcelona on the Celebrity Equinox, with port stops in Italy, Greece, and Turkey. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this magical cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Kusadasi, Turkey, the fifth port of call on our cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Kusadasi, Turkey, the fifth port of call on our cruise.
Kusadasi, Turkey (May 26, 2016) Debra and I never imagined that we would have the opportunity to travel to Turkey, and yet there we were! It was early morning. Debra was getting ready and I was on the top deck to watch as we sailed into the port city of Kusadasi. The temperature was 75 degrees, there was a slight breeze, and the sky was mostly sunny. This was picture-perfect weather for our day in Turkey!
|
|
Kusadasi (pop 50,000), a major resort destination and popular port stop for cruise ships, is located on Turkey's western Aegean coast. Founded in the 16th century, the city’s name comes from two Turkish words – "kus” (bird) and "ada" (island), a reference to nearby Pigeon Island, which is the larger island in the photo below. The Byzantine-era castle on this island protected the harbor and ancient town against pirates.
Debra and I had breakfast in the Oceanview Cafe, and then disembarked to begin our day of sightseeing in Turkey. We spotted our first selfie photo op at the end of the cruise ship pier, just before we entered the cruise terminal. I know, I know – the mural says Ephesus, not Kusadasi, but I’ll get to this a little further on in my story.
After reading many reviews on TripAdvisor and Cruise Critic, I booked a private tour through Ephesus Port Tours. We found our tour guide, Isla, soon after we exited the cruise terminal. Isla was very personable, had a great command of the English language, and, as we quickly learned, was exceptionally knowledgeable.
In the casual conversation that seemed to start each private tour we took, Isla described herself as a “modern Muslim,” and even shared that she was living with her boyfriend. And from Isla we learned something we didn’t know about Turkey – it’s a transcontinental country, with 95% of its land mass in Asia and 5% in Europe. Kusadasi is located in the Asian portion of Turkey, so this was officially our first time on the Asian continent! How cool was that?!
In the casual conversation that seemed to start each private tour we took, Isla described herself as a “modern Muslim,” and even shared that she was living with her boyfriend. And from Isla we learned something we didn’t know about Turkey – it’s a transcontinental country, with 95% of its land mass in Asia and 5% in Europe. Kusadasi is located in the Asian portion of Turkey, so this was officially our first time on the Asian continent! How cool was that?!
Howard, Debra, and Isla
House of the Virgin Mary
About 20 miles outside of Kusadasi, we arrived at the House of the Virgin Mary, a pilgrimage site for Catholics and Muslims. The house, which was discovered in the 19th century, was thought to be where Mary spent her last days – although the Catholic Church has never taken a position on this belief. The wooded setting atop Mt. Koressos (“Mount Nightingale”) was idyllic.
As we entered the house through a small arched door, I spotted an altar on the opposite wall, with a statue of Mary surrounded by candles. I quickly snapped a photo (bottom right below, with the guy’s head in the middle of my shot!), and then saw a sign that told me (and everyone else) that I couldn't take photos inside the house. Mea culpa!
About 20 miles outside of Kusadasi, we arrived at the House of the Virgin Mary, a pilgrimage site for Catholics and Muslims. The house, which was discovered in the 19th century, was thought to be where Mary spent her last days – although the Catholic Church has never taken a position on this belief. The wooded setting atop Mt. Koressos (“Mount Nightingale”) was idyllic.
As we entered the house through a small arched door, I spotted an altar on the opposite wall, with a statue of Mary surrounded by candles. I quickly snapped a photo (bottom right below, with the guy’s head in the middle of my shot!), and then saw a sign that told me (and everyone else) that I couldn't take photos inside the house. Mea culpa!
|
|
Debra and I exited through a side door and walked along a stone path to the “Wall of Wishes,” a place where we could leave a written wish. And apparently everyone did, as there were thousands of wishes pinned to the wall. Debra took a moment to pen and pin her message. I didn’t ask her what she wished for...but according to lore, Debra must return and remove her wish if it comes true. So perhaps we will (must?) return there one day.
|
|
As we drove down Mt. Koressos, we stopped to take a photo of the golden statue of Mary atop a white pedestal. It was magnificent!
The Ancient City of Ephesus
Do you remember the mural at the beginning of my story: “Your gateway to Ephesus…”? Well, back in the car, this was where we now headed. The ancient city of Ephesus, added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites in 2015, may be the number one tourist destination for people who come to Kusadasi – more than 3 million people visited Ephesus the past year.
Ephesus, located on the Cayster River, was founded by the Greeks in the 10th century BC and controlled by different empires over the centuries. In 129 BC, the Romans made Ephesus an eastern outpost for the Roman Empire. It was destroyed by the Goths in 263, and although it was subsequently rebuilt (only to be partially destroyed by an earthquake in 614), the city declined in importance when the Cayster River silted up and became unnavigable.
In the 1860s, British engineer John Turtle Wood was searching for the remains of the Temple of Artemis (more on this in a bit) and in the process he identified the location of Ephesus. Excavation started in 1869 and was ongoing; the well-preserved ruins were Roman. The conservation site covered roughly 6 square miles - a lot for us to see in a couple of hours, but don’t worry, my story covers the highlights only!
Do you remember the mural at the beginning of my story: “Your gateway to Ephesus…”? Well, back in the car, this was where we now headed. The ancient city of Ephesus, added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites in 2015, may be the number one tourist destination for people who come to Kusadasi – more than 3 million people visited Ephesus the past year.
Ephesus, located on the Cayster River, was founded by the Greeks in the 10th century BC and controlled by different empires over the centuries. In 129 BC, the Romans made Ephesus an eastern outpost for the Roman Empire. It was destroyed by the Goths in 263, and although it was subsequently rebuilt (only to be partially destroyed by an earthquake in 614), the city declined in importance when the Cayster River silted up and became unnavigable.
In the 1860s, British engineer John Turtle Wood was searching for the remains of the Temple of Artemis (more on this in a bit) and in the process he identified the location of Ephesus. Excavation started in 1869 and was ongoing; the well-preserved ruins were Roman. The conservation site covered roughly 6 square miles - a lot for us to see in a couple of hours, but don’t worry, my story covers the highlights only!
Our driver dropped Debra, Isla, and me near the upper gate. Why the upper gate? The site had a gentle slope, from the upper gate to the lower gate, and so it was easier for us to walk downhill towards the lower gate, where our driver waited for us.
We arrived at the Varius Baths soon after we entered Ephesus. Built in the first century, it was one of the largest baths in Ephesus. There were five sections, or places (“-arium” denotes a place) – the frigidarium (cold room), apodyterium (dressing room), tepidarium (lukewarm room), calidarium (hot room), and sudatorium (sweating room). There was also a latrine.
We arrived at the Varius Baths soon after we entered Ephesus. Built in the first century, it was one of the largest baths in Ephesus. There were five sections, or places (“-arium” denotes a place) – the frigidarium (cold room), apodyterium (dressing room), tepidarium (lukewarm room), calidarium (hot room), and sudatorium (sweating room). There was also a latrine.
Next, we came to the Basilica. Dating to the first century, the Basilica was used by merchants, bankers, and the courts. It took a bit of imagination for Debra and me to see the roofed-structure that sat atop the now-broken rows of columns. This photo shows the 100-foot central colonnade, which had two sets of tall columns.
Just past the Basilica we stopped at the Odeum, a tiered half-circle venue for concerts and other entertainment. It was also used as a meeting place for the Senate. There were 23 rows of seats made of stone, which accommodated up to 1,500 people.
This photo will give you a sense of the proximity of the Varius Baths (right), Basilica (middle), and Odeum (left) to one another.
The Memmius Monument was named for the grandchild of a Roman general and statesman Lucius Cornilius Sulla Felix. Built in the first century, the monument is adorned with statues of the general’s family. Nearby was a relief of Nike, the Goddess of Victory.
|
|
We reached the start of Curetes Street, which was one of the three main streets of Ephesus. In ancient days, this street was lined with fountains, monuments, statues, and shops, and was used for ceremonies to honor the Goddess Artemis. Those blue umbrellas? A tour guide gave them to his group to help protect them from the sun.
The Temple of Hadrian was one of the best-preserved structures on Curetes Street. Built in the early second century, it was dedicated to Emperor Hadrian, one of the “Five Good Emperors” – the others were Nerva, Tajan, Antoninus Pius and Marcus Aurelius. The latter was the Caesar murdered by his son Commodus, as depicted in the movie Gladiator – but that was just Hollywood, as Marcus Aurelius died of natural causes.
|
|
Further along Curetes Street, we came to…yep, those are latrines. Built in the first century, these public toilets were part of the Scholastikia Baths, which were used to bath, socialize, and discuss current events. By the way, just like many bathrooms in Europe today, there was an entrance fee to use the latrines!
Just past the brothel (every city had one, right?!), at the bottom of Curetes Street, we came to what may be the most impressive building in Ephesus, the Library of Celsus, which was completed in the early second century. The library, named for a Roman citizen who became a senator in the first century, housed more than 12,000 scrolls, making it the third largest library in the world during its time. The facade was largely re-erected by archaeologists in the 1970s. There were four statues out front – Sophia, Arete, Eunoia, and Episteme, symbolizing wisdom, knowledge, and virtue. This was definitely our favorite building!
|
|
|
The commerical Agora, which was the center of trade for Ephesus, sat adjacent to the Library. Built in third century BC, the square-shaped Agora was surrounded by columns that supported a covered colonnade. The Agora connected with the nearby harbor, which made it easy to bring goods in and take goods out.
We left the Agora and walked down Marble Road, which dated to the first century. This road led us to the Grand Theater, located on the slope of Panayir Hill. The original theater was built around 200 BC. It was subsequently enlarged by the Romans to accommodate up to 25,000 people, which made it the largest theater in Asia Minor in its time. In recent years, the Grand Theater was used as a venue for concerts by Elton John, Ray Charles, Sting, and others.
As I promised, just the highlights…but here's a slideshow of other sites and sights.
Debra and I have seen our share of ruins during our travels, including Pompeii just a few days ago, and for our money, we liked Ephesus as much or more than anything we’ve seen. Why? It’s older than many of the ruins we’ve seen, yet it has been preserved, and at times re-erected, in a way that allowed us to feel like we traveled back in time to see much of this ancient city as it once was.
At the end our tour, we wandered through a small bazaar, with all sorts of stuff for sale. Debra was looking for just the right gift for herself, and she found it – a blue “evil-eye” bracelet to ward off bad luck. Me? I left with a good chuckle. See that sign behind Debra? It says, “Genuine Fake Watches.” Truth in advertising, I guess!
At the end our tour, we wandered through a small bazaar, with all sorts of stuff for sale. Debra was looking for just the right gift for herself, and she found it – a blue “evil-eye” bracelet to ward off bad luck. Me? I left with a good chuckle. See that sign behind Debra? It says, “Genuine Fake Watches.” Truth in advertising, I guess!
|
|
It was time for lunch, and Isla took us to a small restaurant a short distance from Ephesus. We found a table on the patio under the shade of a few trees, where we enjoyed a variety of Turkish “tapas.”
|
|
|
Other Tour Highlights
Our trip to Turkey wouldn’t be complete without a demonstration of traditional rug-weaving. Luckily for us (I said tongue in cheek!), we stopped at Ephesus Handcrafts, where we watched a weaver twist individual strands of sheep wool for additional strength before she wove the strands to make intricate and beautiful designs. There was a showroom, of course, where we could buy a finished rug. Pretty to look at, but there was no room in our suitcases for even the smallest runner. Whew – I saved a few Turkish lira here!
Our trip to Turkey wouldn’t be complete without a demonstration of traditional rug-weaving. Luckily for us (I said tongue in cheek!), we stopped at Ephesus Handcrafts, where we watched a weaver twist individual strands of sheep wool for additional strength before she wove the strands to make intricate and beautiful designs. There was a showroom, of course, where we could buy a finished rug. Pretty to look at, but there was no room in our suitcases for even the smallest runner. Whew – I saved a few Turkish lira here!
|
|
|
As we drove back to the ship, we stopped at the Temple of Artemis, also known as the Temple of Diana. One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, this Greek temple, made entirely of marble and adorned with many columns, was completed around 550 BC. Today? There was only a single column and a few pieces of marble. The site, by the way, was excavated in 1969-1874 by the aforementioned British engineer J.T. Wood.
I asked Isla to stop at a bakery so that I could buy real baklava. My mouth was watering the moment we stepped inside. I wish I had a photo to show you, but I guess I “ate the whole thing” before I thought to snap a pic. It was delicious!
We arrived at the port in Kusadasi late afternoon. Debra was ready for some R&R before dinner and a show, so I walked her to the Equinox, which you see in the photo below.
We arrived at the port in Kusadasi late afternoon. Debra was ready for some R&R before dinner and a show, so I walked her to the Equinox, which you see in the photo below.
A Walk Through Kusadasi
Me? I explored an area of Kusadasi near the harbor – narrow pedestrian streets lined with shops, cafes and restaurants. There was even an open-air market. While Kusadasi is a small city, this area had a small town feel (despite the presence of a McDonald’s!). On one street, I saw a display of large evil eye talismans strung across the road.
Me? I explored an area of Kusadasi near the harbor – narrow pedestrian streets lined with shops, cafes and restaurants. There was even an open-air market. While Kusadasi is a small city, this area had a small town feel (despite the presence of a McDonald’s!). On one street, I saw a display of large evil eye talismans strung across the road.
|
|
I was determined to have a Turkish coffee in Turkey, and as I turned the corner to walk down another street, I found a small café. The owner didn’t speak English, so I pointed to a picture of Turkish coffee on a menu board and held out my hand with a few Turkish coins; he took a couple and gave me change. While I sipped my coffee on the patio – I had to sip it because it was too strong to drink – two local women, dressed in black, stopped and asked me something. I didn’t understand what they said, but their intent was clear – I motioned with my hand for them to sit and share my table. That was the extent of our conversation. Oh, and by the way, I enjoyed my Turkish coffee!
As I finished my walk, I realized that I was alone – I didn’t know anyone, I couldn’t speak or understand the language, and no one on the ship knew where I was. I was truly a stranger in a foreign land! And yet, I felt very comfortable and safe. What a great experience!
We sailed from Kusadasi about ten. Debra and I watched the sail away from the top deck of the Equinox, where I stood 16 hours earlier as I watched the ship sail into port. The view was beautiful – set against a dark sky, the city lights reflected different colors in the harbor water. It was a great ending to a great day!
We sailed from Kusadasi about ten. Debra and I watched the sail away from the top deck of the Equinox, where I stood 16 hours earlier as I watched the ship sail into port. The view was beautiful – set against a dark sky, the city lights reflected different colors in the harbor water. It was a great ending to a great day!
