The Kingdom of Dublin (Day 1)

In March 2019, daughter Jill and I went on a ten-day tour of Ireland – three days in Dublin on our own and seven days on a guided tour of the Emerald Isle with CIE Tours International.  Click HERE to read a short introduction to this unforgettable tour.
 
This story, which is part of a series, is about our first day in Dublin. 

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Dublin, Republic of Ireland (March 11, 2019) Jill and I left Phoenix yesterday afternoon, changed planes in Philadelphia, and arrived in Dublin at 8:30 this morning. We “jumped” seven time zones to the east and had no sleep on the overnight flight, but we “hit the ground running” and did not stop until late this evening. 

The weather was typical for this time of year – about 46 degrees and partly sunny. Picture perfect, I’d say, for our first day of sightseeing in the “Kingdom of Dublin!” 

​I booked two nights at the Harding Hotel, located in the heart of Medieval Dublin, because it was central to everything we planned to see and do. We checked in midmorning, dropped our bags, freshened up, and headed to the first stop on our itinerary.  

Dublin (pop. 1.2 million) is located on the east coast of Ireland where the mouth of the River Liffey meets the Irish Sea. The river’s name was derived from the word “Liphe,” or Life. Well named, as the river supplies much of the city’s water. Dublin, the largest city in the Republic of Ireland, was established around the seventh century, and then expanded by the Vikings in the ninth century as the “Kingdom of Dublin”. Dublin became the capital of the Irish Free State (later, the Republic of Ireland) when the island was partitioned in 1922.

A week or so before our trip, I created an itinerary for each day (we were in Dublin for three days) – what we would see or do, where we would eat, and the routes we would take. I figured this would increase the likelihood that we'd accomplish what we set out to do. In hindsight I can tell you that it worked! The sightseeing route this day was about 7 miles, although I know that we walked further as we zigged and zagged along the planned route to see other things that caught our eye. 
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Christ Church Cathedral
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In the early 11th century, the Vikings built a small wooden church on a site across the street from our hotel. More than a century later, the wooden church was replaced by a Romanesque stone cathedral. Gothic elements were added, and in 1875 the cathedral was almost entirely refaced. Formerly known as The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, Christ Church Cathedral is Dublin’s oldest building. It was a grand sight!

As Jill and I walked through the massive front doors, we were greeted by a friendly docent who handed us a map and pointed out a few “highlights” we would see as we wandered through the cathedral.
 
The patterned floor of the church was beautiful – 84,000 tiles and 64 different designs. These were reproductions made in the 1800s, as most of the original tiles were broken when the roof collapsed in the 16th century. The stained-glass windows, also reproductions, were based on medieval designs and made with medieval tools.

The Nave, with its tall arched ceiling, was magnificent. We saw the tomb of Richard de Clare. Nicknamed “Strongbow,” de Clare led an Anglo-Norman army to defeat the English in the late 12th century. (You can read more about Strongbow HERE.) Jill and I entered a small room off the Nave, where we saw a rather interesting religious relic – a heart-shaped stone box that contained the heart of St. Laurence O’Toole, the patron saint of Dublin. As an aside, this relic was stolen in 2012 and recovered in 2018.

While Christ Church Cathedral was not as ornate as others we saw on our Irish Adventure, this iconic cathedral was impressive nonetheless!
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Old Dublin City Wall
 
From the cathedral we walked a short distance for a photo op at the remains of the old Dublin city wall, which surrounded the city in medieval times. To say it “surrounded the city” was factual, but Dublin was quite small back then – less than one square mile. My, how this city has grown!

Brazen Head
 
There are more than 700 pubs in Dublin, but only one that can claim to be the city’s oldest, and this was The Brazen Head, which dates to the late 12th century. The pub was filled with a mix of locals and tourists. Jill and I sat at the bar, where we struck up a conversation with Fiona, the bartender, and a family from Australia. Jill ordered Irish stew with a pint of Hop House. For me, beef and Guinness stew with a pint of Guinness. We loved our first pub experience - great atmosphere, friendly conversation, and delicious food! 

​Jameson Distillery
 
There are many distilleries in Dublin – Tullamore, Teeling, and Dublin Liberties, to name a few. With time to visit only one, we chose the Jameson Distillery, which opened on Bow Street in 1780. 

I pre-booked a 40-minute guided tour – the “Bow Street Experience.” We learned about the company founded by Scotsman James Jameson and the distilling process, and then we tasted three whiskeys - Jameson, Jack Daniels (American) and Johnny Walker Black Label (Scottish). Personally, I liked the JWBL the best because of its smoky aroma and taste. Still, I purchased a gift set of Jameson whiskeys to enjoy at home!

Jill and I headed to JJ’s Bar when the tour ended. Located on the ground floor of the distillery, we relaxed at a high-top table with a refreshing cocktail made with Jameson, ginger ale, and lime. Very nice!!!

Ha’Penny Bridge and Grafton Street
 
Fortified with Jameson, we left the distillery and walked along the Liffey River. Soon, we reached the iconic Ha'penny Bridge, which spans the river. This pedestrian-only bridge was built by ferryman William Walsh in 1816. He charged a half-penny toll to cross the bridge, thus the name. 

From the opposite bank of the river, we walked towards Grafton Street, considered Dublin's “high street” for shopping. On the way, we made a slight detour to see the statue of Molly Mallone, a fictional fishmonger made famous by the well-known Irish song of the same name:  

In Dublin's fair city
Where the girls are so pretty
I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone
As she wheeled her wheelbarrow
Through the streets broad and narrow
Crying "cockles and mussels, alive, alive, oh"

We nosed around the shops on Grafton Street, listened to a young man playing the fiddle, and watched three street-performers dressed as statues (like watching paint dry, if you know what I mean!).

St. Stephen’s Green
 
Jill and I crossed an intersection at the end of Grafton Street and walked under Fusilier’s Arch to reach St. Stephen’s Green. This 22-acre public park in the middle of Dublin had a small lake, beautifully landscaped gardens, sculptures, gazebos, and lots and lots of birds! As we strolled through the park, Jill and I stopped near the lake to watch the ducks and other birds.  What a treat to be in this “oasis” in the middle of the city!

We were “sputtering,” which is to say that we were low on energy. Hungry, yes, but more a function of 30+ hours without sleep. Sleep later. Eat now!​

​The Stags Head
 
Our last stop was The Stags Head, a Victorian pub with a cozy atmosphere – wrought iron chandeliers, mosaic marble-tiled floors, polished granite, ceiling-high mirrors, stag-themed stained-glass windows, and of course, a large stag’s head over the bar. Quite quaint! Jill ordered mussels and frites and I ordered fish pie. Half-pints for both of us. A great meal to end our day!

As Jill and I walked to the Harding for some much needed zzzs, we talked about the sights we saw and things we did and agreed that we were off to a great start to our Irish Adventure!