In June 2021, daughter Jill and I traveled to Georgia and South Carolina – a seven-day getaway to Savannah and Hilton Head Island. Click HERE to read a short introduction to our awesome trip to Savannah.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our third day in Savannah.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our third day in Savannah.
Jill and me in Lafayette Square
Savannah, Georgia (Tuesday, June 8, 2021) Jill and I have had a great time. On Sunday, we binged on Southern classics at a landmark restaurant and cruised on a paddlewheel riverboat. And yesterday, we discovered Savannah’s colonial-era roots, enjoyed a uniquely Southern meal, and heard ghostly stories (Boo!) on a nighttime walking tour.
We certainly set the bar high for this, our third and final day. Without giving away my story, I can tell you that we cleared the bar and then some!
We certainly set the bar high for this, our third and final day. Without giving away my story, I can tell you that we cleared the bar and then some!
It’s not so much the heat, it’s the humidity that’ll kill you.
~ Coach Irv Blitzer, played by John Candy, in the movie Cool Running
~ Coach Irv Blitzer, played by John Candy, in the movie Cool Running
Jill and I were “greeted” by a blast of muggy air when the sliding doors parted as we left our hotel this morning. Both the air temp and humidity were in the low-80s (and heading higher), which produced a heat index in the 90s – near the top end of the cautionary range for physical activity. Fortunately, the activities we planned were “low impact.” We donned our hats for shade and carried plenty of water to stay hydrated…and survived both the heat and humidity this day!
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First up was a two-hour walking tour ($32 per person) hosted by Kt O’Brien, a Savannah native with a degree in anthropology from the College of Charleston in South Carolina. We met Kt at Wright Square, the first of six squares we visited with her this day.
Kt promised to share “fact-filled stories about the history and cultural influences of Savannah.” She was an energetic storyteller, and her promise was her word! She kicked off our tour with a story about an Indian chief and a railroad magnate. |
A Tale of Two Monuments
Wright Square has two of the most impressive monuments in
all of downtown – a towering statue and an enormous boulder.
~ Savannah.com
all of downtown – a towering statue and an enormous boulder.
~ Savannah.com
“This square was one of the first in Savannah,” Kt said. “Completed in 1733, it was originally named for Lord Percival, who helped champion the colony of Georgia. Thirty years later, Percival Square was renamed for James Wright, the last colonial governor of Georgia.”
Wright Square was typical of the ones that Jill and I visited the past two days, with a paved path that meandered beneath giant oak trees, park benches that beckoned us to “sit a spell,” and a central monument. There was also that “other monument,” an enormous boulder, and this was where Kt launched into her story.
Wright Square was typical of the ones that Jill and I visited the past two days, with a paved path that meandered beneath giant oak trees, park benches that beckoned us to “sit a spell,” and a central monument. There was also that “other monument,” an enormous boulder, and this was where Kt launched into her story.
“This boulder was placed here as a monument to Tomo-Chi-Chi, the leader of the Yamacraw Indians in the early 1700s,” Kt began. “They were a small band of 200 people from the tribes of the Lower Creeks and Yamasees. Tomo-Chi-Chi befriended the first colonists of Georgia, who were led by General James Oglethorpe, about a month after they landed on Yamacraw Bluff in 1733.”
On our tour yesterday, I learned that Savannah was America’s first planned city – a network of streets laid out in a grid that were lined with homes and businesses and, within the grid, public squares.
“Tomo-Chi-Chi and Oglethorpe entered into a treaty,” Kt continued, “that allowed Oglethorpe to establish a city – the city of Savannah. Tomo-Chi-Chi helped Oglethorpe lay out the roads and acted as a mediator with other tribes. He was a true friend of the colonists.”
“When Tomo-Chi-Chi died in 1739,” Kt revealed, “his body was buried under a pyramid of stones in the center of the square with full military honors.”
On our tour yesterday, I learned that Savannah was America’s first planned city – a network of streets laid out in a grid that were lined with homes and businesses and, within the grid, public squares.
“Tomo-Chi-Chi and Oglethorpe entered into a treaty,” Kt continued, “that allowed Oglethorpe to establish a city – the city of Savannah. Tomo-Chi-Chi helped Oglethorpe lay out the roads and acted as a mediator with other tribes. He was a true friend of the colonists.”
“When Tomo-Chi-Chi died in 1739,” Kt revealed, “his body was buried under a pyramid of stones in the center of the square with full military honors.”
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But as Jill and I saw, and Kt was quick to point out, there was now a tall monument in the center of Wright Square.
“The pyramid of stones degraded over the years,” Kt noted, “leaving only a small mound of rock that was removed in 1883. In its stead, the Central of Georgia Railroad Company erected a monument to its deceased founder, William Washington Gordon, who also served as the mayor of Savannah in the 1830s.” Savannahians, who saw this as a violation of Tomo-Chi-Chi’s remains, were outraged. “In 1899, Gordon’s daughter-in-law, who was a member of the Colonial Dames of America, helped secure a new monument to Tomo-Chi-Chi,” Kt said as she brought her story to an end. “That monument was this giant boulder.” |
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There was a bronze tablet encircled with arrowheads and Cherokee roses on the face of the boulder. The inscription said:
In Memory of Tomo-Chi-Chi – the Mico of the Yamacraws, the companion
of Oglethorpe, and the friend and ally of the Colony of Georgia.
of Oglethorpe, and the friend and ally of the Colony of Georgia.
Nice!
Life is Like a Box of Chocolates
My momma always said, “Life was a like a box of chocolates.
You never know what you’re gonna get.
~ Forrest Gump
You never know what you’re gonna get.
~ Forrest Gump
Chippewa Square was designed in 1815 and named to commemorate a famous battle in the War of 1812. “Perhaps, though,” Kt said with a wink, “it was Forrest Gump who made this square famous. You see, this was where the bus stop scenes in the movie were shot.”
I recalled those scenes, in which Forrest sat on the bench – at least once with a box of chocolate candies in hand – and told his life story to anyone who would listen.
“Where is the bench?” I asked.
I recalled those scenes, in which Forrest sat on the bench – at least once with a box of chocolate candies in hand – and told his life story to anyone who would listen.
“Where is the bench?” I asked.
“It was donated to the Savannah History Museum,” Kt replied. “But when the scenes were filmed, the bench stood where you see the sign for Chippewa Square, in amongst the shrubs.”
Sherman's Headquarters
At first, I felt strongly disinclined to make use of any private dwelling, but after riding about the city, and finding his house so spacious, so convenient, with a large yard and stabling, I accepted his offer, and occupied that house during our stay in Savannah.
~ General Sherman
~ General Sherman
We strolled through Madison Square on our way to the Green-Meldrin House. This square was designed in 1837 and was named for James Madison, fourth President of the United States.
“The Green-Maldrin House was built for Charles Green, a cotton merchant and ship owner who came to Savannah from England in 1833,” Kt said as she launched into her story. “Inside and out, it was one of the most intricate homes in Savannah when it was completed in the 1850s at a cost of about $90,000.”
“The Green-Maldrin House was built for Charles Green, a cotton merchant and ship owner who came to Savannah from England in 1833,” Kt said as she launched into her story. “Inside and out, it was one of the most intricate homes in Savannah when it was completed in the 1850s at a cost of about $90,000.”
Kt called our attention to the heavy outer doors. “Those doors are unique,” she said. “They fold in to form small closets on both sides of the entrance.”
What a clever feature!
Savannah, I knew, was the last stop on General Sherman’s “March to the Sea,” a “scorched earth” campaign that helped bring an end to the Civil War.
“General Sherman captured Savannah in December 1864,” commented Kt, “and his staff quickly set out to establish his headquarters. They first looked at the Pulaski Hotel, but eventually settled on the home owned by Charles Green – at Mr. Green’s invitation!”
His neighbors were aghast that a respectable Southerner would offer his home to “those damn Yankees.” Nevertheless, Green’s house became Sherman’s headquarters.
she
“Sherman’s chaplain conducted Christmas services next door in St. John’s Church,” Kt shared as wrapped up her story, “and Sherman continued to occupy the house until February 1865.”
“Wait a minute,” Jill asked as Kt started to walk away. “Who or what was Meldrin?”
“Ahhh,” she answered. “The house passed from Charles Green to his son in 1881, and then was sold to Judge Peter Meldrin in 1892. The current owner, St. John’s Church, purchased the house from the Meldrin family in 1943.”
And now we knew the rest of the story!
Jill and I enjoyed these stories and others that Kt told…but we loved the stately homes we saw as we strolled through Savannah’s historic district. They were fabulous! Here were four of our favorites.
What a clever feature!
Savannah, I knew, was the last stop on General Sherman’s “March to the Sea,” a “scorched earth” campaign that helped bring an end to the Civil War.
“General Sherman captured Savannah in December 1864,” commented Kt, “and his staff quickly set out to establish his headquarters. They first looked at the Pulaski Hotel, but eventually settled on the home owned by Charles Green – at Mr. Green’s invitation!”
His neighbors were aghast that a respectable Southerner would offer his home to “those damn Yankees.” Nevertheless, Green’s house became Sherman’s headquarters.
she
“Sherman’s chaplain conducted Christmas services next door in St. John’s Church,” Kt shared as wrapped up her story, “and Sherman continued to occupy the house until February 1865.”
“Wait a minute,” Jill asked as Kt started to walk away. “Who or what was Meldrin?”
“Ahhh,” she answered. “The house passed from Charles Green to his son in 1881, and then was sold to Judge Peter Meldrin in 1892. The current owner, St. John’s Church, purchased the house from the Meldrin family in 1943.”
And now we knew the rest of the story!
Jill and I enjoyed these stories and others that Kt told…but we loved the stately homes we saw as we strolled through Savannah’s historic district. They were fabulous! Here were four of our favorites.
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The three-story Andrew Low House was completed in 1849. A pair of stone lions greeted us as we made our way to the front steps. Kt told us that the beautiful formal gardens retained their original structure.
The Kehoe House, said to be one of the most photographed mansions in Savannah, was built in 1892 by foundry owner William Kehoe. Its style was Queen Anne Revival, and the exterior stairways, columns, and gates were made of cast iron.
We bade a warm goodbye to Kt at Oglethorpe Square. Oddly, while this square honored the founder of Savannah, the monument of Oglethorpe was erected in Chippewa Square. Many people say that Oglethorpe looked a lot like Captain Morgan of rum fame. You be the judge!
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The Hamilton-Turner House was built in 1873 for Samuel Pugh Hamilton, “The Lord of Lafayette Square.” Kt apprised us that, in 1883, this three-story mansion became the first residence in Savannah with electricity.
The Owens-Thomas House, named for two later-day owners, was completed in 1817. “This home has an interesting claim to fame,” recounted Kt. “General Lafayette visited Savannah in 1825, and he lived there as a guest of the city.”
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Jill and I were ready for lunch, and it was now or never to dine at Jill’s top choice – The Olde Pink House, “one of Savannah’s finest dining establishments.”
Located on Reynolds Square in the heart of Savannah's historic district, The Olde Pink House was built in 1771 for James Habersham Jr., a wealthy planter who occupied this mansion until 1800. This grand house, which changed hands many times over the years, was purchased by William and Elizabeth Balish in 1992 – the start of a major project to restore The Olde Pink House to its former glory.
By the way, that quirky pink color was not new – a woman who bought the mansion in the 1920s painted it pink as part of its signature décor.
Jill and I were seated in Planter’s Tavern, a quaint cellar room opened for lunch with the same menu used in the main dining room for dinner. Light Bites. Soups and Salads. Sandwiches. Entrees. Desserts. Everything sounded wonderful!
Jill and I split a BLT salad with fried green tomatoes and brown sugar bacon. Jill followed up with shrimp tacos and I had shrimp & grits. My entrée was prepared as cheddar grits cakes smothered in country ham gravy, and it was served with a side of collard greens. And for dessert, we shared a slice of pecan pie served warm with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.
By the way, that quirky pink color was not new – a woman who bought the mansion in the 1920s painted it pink as part of its signature décor.
Jill and I were seated in Planter’s Tavern, a quaint cellar room opened for lunch with the same menu used in the main dining room for dinner. Light Bites. Soups and Salads. Sandwiches. Entrees. Desserts. Everything sounded wonderful!
Jill and I split a BLT salad with fried green tomatoes and brown sugar bacon. Jill followed up with shrimp tacos and I had shrimp & grits. My entrée was prepared as cheddar grits cakes smothered in country ham gravy, and it was served with a side of collard greens. And for dessert, we shared a slice of pecan pie served warm with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.
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The service was wonderful, the presentation was aesthetically appealing, and the tastes were out of this world!
It was early afternoon and time to explore a couple of sites that were high on my Savannah bucket list of places to see.
It’s soaring profile and delicately detailed interior are a joy to the eye
and a truly striking testament to man’s architectural mastery.
~ McMillian.com
and a truly striking testament to man’s architectural mastery.
~ McMillian.com
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Jill and I rode the Hop-On Hop-Off Trolley to reach the Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptist, located near Lafayette Square. The cornerstone for this Roman Catholic cathedral was laid in November 1873. It was completed and consecrated in April 1876.
The French Gothic architecture was grand. Soaring twin spires. Pointed arch doorways and windows. Steep gabled roof. Large circular stained-glass window. Highly ornamented whitewash stucco. It was a sight to behold! |
The interior was equally impressive. Two rows of slim columns rose to a vaulted ceiling. Decorative carvings adorned the walls. A massive pipe organ (2,308 pipes!) stood on a second-floor platform.
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There were also 81 brightly colored stained-glass windows, each handcrafted by an Austrian glassmaker. One window stood out from the rest – the 20-foot wide Great Rose Window, which was installed in the front edifice above the pipe organ.
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In 2002, Pope Francis designated the Cathedral a Minor Basilica, a high honor in the Catholic Church that had been bestowed on fewer than 100 churches worldwide.
I have visited many churches as I traveled the world. The Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptist was one of my favorites!
I have visited many churches as I traveled the world. The Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptist was one of my favorites!
Colonial Park Cemetery has a long and storied history,
almost as old as Savannah herself.
~ Gallivantertours.com
almost as old as Savannah herself.
~ Gallivantertours.com
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Jill and I walked north on Abercorn Street to reach the entrance to Colonial Park Cemetery, the oldest in Savannah. It “opened for business” in 1750 and served as the city’s primary public cemetery until it closed in 1853. More than 9,000 people were buried there during this 100+ year span. There were far fewer headstones now, as some remains were exhumed and moved with their grave markers to Laurel Grove and other cemeteries, while other headstones were lost to time and vandals.
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Edward Greene Melbone
(1777 - 1807) |
Alexander Jaffrey
(1777 - 1810) |
Joseph Clay
(1741 - 1804) |
Some headstones were desecrated by soldiers when the Union army occupied Savannah. According to legend, these soldiers used their bayonets to carve numerals that changed the age of the person – one man lived 421 years, while another died when he was 544!
Many of the dead lived through the Revolutionary War era, and so we enjoyed a lesson in history as we wandered through the cemetery. Here were a few of the more notable burials we saw.
Many of the dead lived through the Revolutionary War era, and so we enjoyed a lesson in history as we wandered through the cemetery. Here were a few of the more notable burials we saw.
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Button Gwinnett (1735-1777) was a Founding Father – one of the 56 men who signed the Declaration of Independence in 1776. He also served as the third governor of the colony of Georgia. Gwinnett was fatally wounded in a duel with a political rival – a member of the Whigs – in May 1777. This beautiful memorial to Button Gwinnett was erected in 1964.
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Lachlan McIntosh (1725 – 1806) was a landowner, surveyor, and delegate to the Provincial Congress of Georgia. Does not sound notable, right? Well, his notoriety came from a duel in 1777. Yep, he was THE political rival who dueled with Gwinnett. McIntosh, too, was wounded…but he survived his wound and lived to the ripe old age of 81.
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Archibald Bulloch (1730 – 1777) was Georgia’s first colonial governor…and the great-great-grandfather of Theodore Roosevelt. He was commander in chief of Georgia’s militia when he mysteriously died – some believed he was poisoned – as he faced a British invasion in February 1777.
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The cemetery was well-maintained and easy to walk through…and filled (literally!) with the rich history of colonial Savannah. It was a treat to see!
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Andaz Savannah, our home away from home, was located on Ellis Square, just east of City Market, an 18th century open-air marketplace. The Andaz was central to everything we did in Savannah. There were also many fine restaurants nearby, including Sorry Charlie’s Oyster Bar, where Jill and I savored a wonderful dinner this evening.
There was a two-hour wait to sit in the dining room, but two open seats at the bar. Uhhh…no brainer! |
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Jill was the more adventurous gourmand this evening – she ordered the Roasted Oyster Sampler as an appetizer, while I opted for a bowl of Marsh Side Mama’s Gumbo with fish, sausage, and shrimp served over rice. Our entrees? A shrimp po-boy for Jill and fried shrimp with Hoppin’ John (Carolina peas and rice, a classic Southern dish) for me. Oh…and Tybee Island Blonde ales for both of us. The service was first rate, and the food was (with an apology to Campbell’s Soup) “Mmm, Mmm Good!” (Actually, as Tony the Tiger said, They're Grrrrreat!)
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We ended this day – and our three-day holiday in Savannah – with an evening stroll through City Market, where we listened to live music and checked out the goods in a few shops.
Jill and I had a grand time in Savannah, where we enjoyed a taste of its colonial history, period architecture, and down-home Southern cooking.
As they say in the South, it was time for us to “light a shuck” – move on to our next destination. Tomorrow morning, we will head to Hilton Head Island in South Carolina – a journalism assignment for Jill and some R&R for me. I cannot wait to hit the beach!
As they say in the South, it was time for us to “light a shuck” – move on to our next destination. Tomorrow morning, we will head to Hilton Head Island in South Carolina – a journalism assignment for Jill and some R&R for me. I cannot wait to hit the beach!