Bangkok: Temples, Markets, and Food

In February 2024, Jill and I toured Southeast Asia by land and by sea. We sailed from Thailand to Hong Kong on board the Crystal Symphony and spent two days in Bangkok and two days in Hong Kong before and after our cruise. We had an epic adventure!

Click HERE to read a short introduction to our journey.

This story, part of a series, is about our first day in Bangkok.

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Jill and me with our guide, Noon

Bangkok, Thailand (February 14, 2024) A few weeks back, I received an email from Jill. “Dad, take a look at this tour and tell me what you think,” she wrote.

I clicked the link she sent and read this description…

On this tour we will show you the beauty of Bangkok by night. We will visit famous sites, temples, and markets, and stop to sample a selection of food, while enjoying the thrills of exploring the city by tuk-tuk with a local guide. 

I replied, “Sounds great!”, and with that, Jill booked our private tour through Expique, short for ‘Experience Unique.’

The tour WAS great, and I will tell you about it in a bit, but first…

…have you ever chased the moon—literally?

Well, Jill and I did when we flew from Los Angeles to Hong Kong, the middle leg (and longest, at 16 hours) of our trip from Phoenix to Bangkok.

Our plane departed L.A. at 10:15PM and touched down in Hong Kong at 6:15AM—two calendar days later, of course, because Hong Kong is 15 hours AHEAD of L.A. So, it was nighttime throughout our 16-hour flight, with the moon always a step ahead.

For the record, the sun rose at 7AM in Hong Kong that day—45 minutes after we landed—and a few hours later it led us on our flight to Bangkok.

I logged many personal firsts on my journey through Southeast Asia. Here was one I chalked up in Bangkok: I stayed at a five-star hotel—something I’ve never done in all my years of travel. 

For more than 147 years, travelers have followed the Chao Phraya River to stay at the legendary Mandarin Oriental. We enjoy a reputation for style, service, and excellence. A haven of calm on the banks of the river, Mandarin Oriental is a truly remarkable hotel.

~ Mandarin Oriental

The Mandarin Oriental, located on the eastern bank of the Cho Phraya River, was named one of the top 50 hotels in the world in 2023, and earned a ‘five-pearl’ rating from Oyster.com, which said, “...it doesn’t get much more luxurious than this.” 

The hotel was elegant, and the service was impeccable.

​I could cite many examples of impeccable service…but won’t. Instead, I’ll shared just this one... 

Our arrival from the airport in a chauffeured SUV set the hotel staff at the entrance into well-choreographed and fluid motion: As the SUV came to a stop, a doorman opened the rear door of our vehicle so we could exit the SUV; a porter retrieved our luggage, which we did not touch until it reached our room; and a gentleman in a tailored suit greeted us, offered garlands made of jasmine and orchids—the floral scent was rich and sweet!—and escorted us to the front desk where we checked in.

Talk about a great first impression!

This is the Mandarin Oriental as viewed from the river side.

The two-story building on the right, the ‘Authors’ Wing,’ dates to the original hotel, which opened in 1876. It has suites named after well-known authors who stayed there, including Joseph Conrad, Somerset Maugham, and James Michener. The 16-story building on the left is the ‘River Wing,” and that was where Jill and I stayed. I’ll show you our room in a moment, but first…

…check out the two-story lobby, which was stunning…

…and the lush grounds and inviting pool.

Our room, befitting a five-star hotel, was the nicest I’ve ever stayed in—spacious, well-appointed, and luxurious. 

And from the 15th floor, we had a magnificent view of the Chao Praya River and a handful of waterfront high rises.

At the risk of sounding indelicate, there’s something else about our room I’d like to share: It was equipped with a high-tech toilet manufactured by Toto—so high-tech that the lid automatically opened when I walked into the toilet closet. What will they think of next, I thought. How about a heated seat? Yep, it had that, too!
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Jill and I enjoyed three scrumptious meals at the Mandarin Oriental—a buffet breakfast two mornings and room service one evening. I won’t boor you with our delicious three-course, in-room meal…but I must tell you about the buffet.

It was soup to nuts—literally, as one station served made-to-order soups (my ‘starter’ both days), while another had bowls of various nuts. And in between? Coffee, tea, juices, smoothies, and other beverages. Bread, rolls, and pastries. Cereals, yogurt, and fresh fruits. (In this photo, my plate included passion fruit, dragon fruit, papaya, and pineapple. The quality was outstanding, and the taste was oh-so refreshing!) Sliced meats, cheeses, and veggies. Scrambeled eggs, omelets, potatoes, bacon, and other meats. And on and on and on. It was a veritable feast.

There was a riverside terrace adjacent to the buffet, and while it was uncomfortably warm both mornings—it wasn't so much the heat (upper 80s) as the humidity (70%)—Jill and I ate our breakfast there to enjoy the beautiful scenic views on and across the river. No doubt—Jill and I were living the ‘good life!’

And that was something I could say about our entire stay at the Mandarin Oriental—it WAS the good life, and Jill and I had a great experience from start to finish!

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“Hi! I’m Noon,” she said.

“I’m Jill, and this is my dad, Howard.”

So, where was I before I paused to tell you about our Transpacific flight and the Mandarin Oriental? Oh, yeah—our tuk-tuk tour of Bangkok.

Late afternoon, with the temperature in the mid-90s and 40% humidity, Jill and I boarded a traditional Chinese junket, like the one in this photo, for a short boat ride to Sathorn Pier. There we caught a train to Krung Thonburi station, where we met our tour guide. 

“Your dad—wow, how wonderful you traveled here together.”

And then Jill explained, “I’m a writer—on travel, food, and more—and my dad goes with me on many of my press trips. It’s a special opportunity for both of us!”

“So it is,” Noon replied. “Let me tell you about our tour. First, we’ll visit a food market where you will sample local cuisine. Then we will go to a temple, followed by dinner, the flower market, and Chinatown. How’s that sound?”

“Great!” Jill and I said in unison.

And with that, Noon led us from the station to the street, where we boarded our chariot—a tuk-tuk, AKA an ‘auto-rickshaw.’

That’s our tuk-tuk driver in the photo on the right. He wasn’t camera shy; rather, I asked him to turn around to capture the back of his shirt, which read, ‘KEEP SMILING AND ENJOY MY TUK-TUK.’ 

(We did!)

Our tuk-tuk was the most common configuration: three wheels with an open compartment for the driver and passengers. As transportation goes, tuk-tuks are the cheapest way to navigate the city—30 to 60 Thai Baht per ride, the equivalent of $0.85 to $1.70 US—and are best suited for short trips around town.
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With the open compartment, we felt the wind in our hair as we zipped through traffic in the often-chaotic streets of Bangkok. It was an exhilarating experience even though we breathed exhaust fumes from the vehicles that surrounded us.  

Suck it up Howard, I thought. And that’s what I did—literally and figuratively—and in the end I was no worse for the wear. Glad I don’t have to face this every day!

Soon, we stopped on Soi Itsaraphap 9 in Thonburi, a riverside community along the west bank of the Chao Phraya River.

‘Soi,’ by the way, is the Thai word for a smaller street.

And as for the name of that street, it’s much harder to pronounce than it looks because, as I learned from Noon, letter combinations have distinct sounds. For example, ‘its’ is pronounced ‘th’ as in ‘think,’ while ‘ph’ is pronounced ‘f’ as in ‘fun’ and ‘ap’ is pronounced ‘b’ as in ‘boy.’

Well, that was too much for me…so I gave up on trying to utter the name of that street. 

The buildings on both sides of Itsaraphap 9 were two- and three-stories tall—retail stores on the first floor with living quarters above.

We weren’t there to visit the retail stores, though; rather, we had come to sample a selection of street food—authentic Thai cuisine sold by vendors from stalls that lined the street. 

We walked the length of Itsaraphap 9—not too great a distance—and stopped at a handful of stalls at Noon’s direction. 

Phew, I thought, I don’t have to worry whether this food is safe or not. And as if Jill read my mind, she quietly said to me, “You can eat everything that Noon recommends…but don’t go off on your own.”

Forewarned is forearmed, and I stayed close to Noon throughout our culinary tour. 

Jill’s the foodie; I’m not. She could tell you what we sampled; I can’t.

What I can say is that each of the five street foods we tried, including these ‘Thai tacos,’ were flavorful and tasty with a gastronomic delight in every bite! 

I don’t know whether I’m more adventurous than Jill, but I tried a delicacy that Jill said “no way” to—grilled meal worms and grill crickets. Both were among the population of edible insects that “have become increasingly popular in Thailand as a nutritious and appealing alternative food source.”

When in Thailand, do as the Thai do, I thought as I chose a mealworm first and then a cricket, and chomped down on both.

Jill recorded my devil-may-care action on video. I snipped a few frames to share with you.

A bit incredulous that I ate bugs, Jill asked, “So, dad, what do you think?”

“Delicious…and full of protein,” I replied with a wink.

Truthfully, there was no flavor to either insect—at least none that I discerned—and because they were grilled, both were crunchy like snack food. So…what’s not to like?

Noon told us she often has her evening meal at a food market—this one or one of the many others in Bangkok.

“It’s easier than cooking at home,” she said. “And there’s no clean up.”

“Is it expensive?” I asked, as I had no idea the cost because Noon bought what we ate.

“No,” she replied. “Most items cost the equivalent of one U.S. dollar for a handful of bite-size pieces, so for a few dollars I can have a complete meal.”

I liked this approach to dining out—a little of this, a little of that…and all for not much money.

This was our first truly ‘cultural experience’ in Bangkok, and I loved it! Sometimes Jill and I were greeted with a smile or a curious look, and perhaps a few words in English. Often, though, the vendors were indifferent to our presence, which (IMHO) lent an authenticity to our experience as we watched the Thai go about their daily life, a hand-to-mouth existence for most. 

“Bangkok,” I read, “had some of the most magnificent temples in Thailand.” So, it was no wonder that our next stop was Wat Prayurawongsawat Worawihan to view Phra Borommathat Maha Chedi, which Noon called a “hidden gem.”

As an aside, I listened as Noon pronounced both names…twice…and still could not repeat what I heard. Luckily, both names were displayed on the information board behind me in this photo.

“The word wat means temple,” Noon said. “Wat Prayum—its short name—is a 19th century Buddhist temple built during the reign of King Rama III, the king of Siam from 1824 to 1851. You may not know his name, but I bet you recognize his brother, Mongkut.”

Jill and I had blank stares on our faces, so Noon continued, “Mongkut succeeded his brother as King Rama IV, and he was the king portrayed in The King and I.

Ahh, I thought. Yul Brynner!

My inquiring mind wanted to know, so I asked, “What’s a chedi?”

“A chedi is a stupa,” she said, “and a stupa is the bell-shaped structure found on Thai Buddhist temples.”

I looked at Jill and gave her a knowing nod of my head, feeling clever that I had thought to ask what a chedi was. She returned my nod with a courteous smile.

“The name of this chedi, Phra Borommathat, means ‘great noble relics’—so named because it is believed to contain a relic of Gautama Buddha, the spiritual leader whose teachings became the foundation for Buddhism.”  

The up lights bathed the white-washed chedi in shades of yellow and orange. It was a beautiful sight to see, and on this crowdless night, it felt peaceful and calm.    

“Wat Prayum is a complex of buildings,” said Noon. “I’d like to show another building to you.”

Jill and I followed Noon to a captivating structure.

“This magnificent building is Ordination Hall,” said Noon. “It is the most sacred building within this temple complex because it hosts significant ceremonies, including the ordination of monks. There is an image of Buddha inside the hall, the Phra Buddha Vishnu Prophet, made of metal and gilded with gold plate.”

Ordination Hall was closed…but even when opened, the policy is ‘no inside photos allowed.’

There were several ceremonial bells off to one side of Ordination Hall. Noon demonstrated how to ring the bell—three light taps—and bow with hands in prayer…and then invited Jill and me to do the same.

It was a special experience!  

“Are you hungry?” Noon asked.

“I am,” said Jill.

“And so am I,” I answered.

On the way to the restaurant, we stopped to see a towering structure that stood outside the grand entrance to Wat Suthat, a temple completed near the middle of the 19th century.

“This is a recent reproduction of the original Giant Swing, which was built in 1784. It stood almost 90 feet tall,” said Noon, “and was used in a ceremony by teams of Thai men who competed for a bag of gold coins that hung 50 feet above the ground.”

“I don’t see the swing,” I said.

“No, you don’t, as it proved too dangerous,” replied Noon. “But imagine a group of men standing on a large pole suspended from the top of this structure. They worked in unison to swing back and forth in hopes of snagging that bag of gold…with their teeth! Some succeeded, most failed, and the ritual was cancelled in 1935 after several fatal accident.”  

Likely, there is something similar in other cultures, but the Giant Swing—even as a reproduction—was an enduring element of the Thai culture.

And then, before we drove to the restaurant, Noon said, “Would you like to know the Thai name for Bangkok? It has 168 letters—the longest city name in the world.”

Jill and I nodded, and with that, Noon and our tuk-tuk driver sang a song of the name:

Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit

Their performance elicited big smiles from Jill and me!

We had dinner at Krua Khun Kungthat. Its menu included gai baan tom rakum (chicken in a spicy soup), yam cha-om tord (a spicy salad), and other classic Thai favorites.

“It’s popular with locals,” Noon said—which we could see as we looked from table to table. “If it’s okay with you, I will order a few dishes I think you will enjoy.”

And that was what she did.

There wasn’t much ambiance to this restaurant, but our food—Tom Yum Goong (hot and sour soup with shrimp), Larb Moo (spicy pork salad with mint leaves), and Gai Yang (grilled chicken)—was delicious! 

“Where to next?” Jill asked as we finished our meal.

“I thought we’d walk through the flower market,” replied Noon. “Even though it is late, the market will be crowded because this is Valentine’s Day.”

I was surprised to learn the Thai people celebrated Valentine’s Day. I did not ask more of Noon, but later read this:

Since the Thai people are open to different cultures, we are able to enjoy light decorations, music, and multicultural celebrations all year round. And if Christmas and the Chinese New Year are celebrated in Thailand, then Valentine’s Day must definitely be on the list. 

~ Thailand Foundation

The flower market was located on Chakkraphet Road. It was a vibrant mart, with many vendors and even more customers. The scene was multicolored, and the air was fragrant with scents from carnations, marigolds, roses, and more—individual cut flowers, flower bouquets, flower arrangements, and hand-made garlands. There were also fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as herbs and spices. 

Noon stopped at a stall to demonstrate how to fold the petals of the lotus—essentially, a tri-fold—and then handed a closed lotus to both Jill and me.

“Now you try it,” she said with a gleam in her eye.

And we did. Jill (no surprise!) was more adept at the art of folding lotus petals than me. Still, I was pleased with my work. 

You can click this link to watch a demonstration on YouTube…

How to fold lotus petals (youtube.com)

“We have one more stop,” Noon said, “and it’s a bustling area.”

Jill and I were all ears.

“It’s Chinatown—one of the largest in the world,” she continued. “Our Chinatown was founded in 1782, the same year Bangkok was established.”

Jill turned to me and said, “Dad, after our long flight and busy day, I’m not sure I have the energy for this.”

Noon was quick with an answer. “We don’t have to walk. Instead, we’ll drive the main street, so you see some of what Chinatown offers.”

Jill looked at me, I nodded, and she said to Noon, “Let’s do a drive-through.”

The Chinese New Year—the Year of the Wood Dragon—began on February 10th, just a handful of days ago.

The dragon is a revered animal in Chinese culture, as it represents luck, power, and success. People born in the dragoon years share these qualities and will benefit from the Wood dragon’s energy. 

~TheChineseZodiac.org

Both Jill and I were born in the Year of the Snake—me in 1953, Jill in 1977. When I read the blurb above, I also learned “Snakes, Tigers, Goats, Dragons, and Monkeys can also enjoy a prosperous year, but they may face come challenges or obstacles along the way.”

No doubt I will face challenges and obstacles in the months ahead—that’s life—but I’m optimistic those months will be, on the whole, prosperous ones for me, in body, mind, and spirit!  

We drove along Yaowarat Road, the main artery through Chinatown.

“This road turns into a food street at night,” said Noon—something we saw ample evidence of as we slowly made our way from one end of the mile-long road to the other.

It was 10PM, or thereabouts, and even at this late hour (perhaps this neighborhood does not sleep), Chinatown WAS a bustling area, as Noon said it would be. There was no doubt we had made the right call—a drive-through rather than walk.

And then it was tuk-tuk all the way home—back to the Mandarin Oriental, that is.

“Well, Jill,” I said as we got ready for bed, “did you have a good time.”

“I had a wonderful time,” she replied. “You know me—I loved the food market and dinner, as I’ve waited years for truly authentic Thai food. What about you?”  

“I enjoyed the food, too, because it was part of a cultural experience—more than the tasty food, we got a glimpse of the daily lives of the vendors and their customers--local folks. And the same was true of the other venues we visited. I think we're off to a great start!”

We were bushed after 32 hours of travel, with little sleep on the plane, and a five-hour tour of Bangkok.

"Good night, Jill."

"Good night, dad".
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Needless to say, we had little trouble falling asleep that night.