In May 2018, David and I went on a seven-day Scandinavian cruise on the Sapphire Princess. We sailed round trip from Southampton, England, with port stops in Belgium, Denmark, Sweden, and Norway. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this awesome cruise.
This story is the second in a series about the sights we saw and experiences we had on land and at sea.
This story is the second in a series about the sights we saw and experiences we had on land and at sea.
Bruges, Belgium (Sunday, May 27, 2018) I was awakened by a gentle bump. What was that? I glanced at the clock. Six a.m. Oh…we’ve just docked, I realized.
I glanced at David. He was still asleep.
“David,” I said. Nothing, so I spoke a little louder. “David, rise and shine.”
Still nothing, so I reached across the short distance between our beds and lightly touched his shoulder.
He opened his eyes and looked at me.
“Yes?” he asked.
“We have a big day ahead in one of the most picturesque cities in Europe, and we need to be off the ship in two hours. Let’s go.”
“You use the bathroom first,” he answered as he closed his eyes.
I glanced at David. He was still asleep.
“David,” I said. Nothing, so I spoke a little louder. “David, rise and shine.”
Still nothing, so I reached across the short distance between our beds and lightly touched his shoulder.
He opened his eyes and looked at me.
“Yes?” he asked.
“We have a big day ahead in one of the most picturesque cities in Europe, and we need to be off the ship in two hours. Let’s go.”
“You use the bathroom first,” he answered as he closed his eyes.
The Sapphire Princess sailed overnight from Southampton to the Port of Zeebrugge (‘Bruges at Sea’), centrally located on the northern coast of Belgium about 10 miles north of Bruges (sounds like ‘broozh’). Had David and I sailed eight hundred years ago, we would have docked in the harbor of medieval Bruges.
“How can that be, and what happened?” you ask.
In 1134, a massive coastal storm created a tidal channel, the Zwin, between the North Sea and Bruges. The Zwin was the ‘golden inlet’ for this then sleepy town. With direct access to the North Sea, Bruges soon became a great harbor city, and “its trade, commerce, and power increased dramatically.”
The Zwin, though, wasn’t a natural channel, and less than 200 years later, it began to silt up. In time, Bruges was landlocked, cut off from the sea.
The Port of Zeebrugge, built in 1907, was the largest port in Belgium and second largest port in Europe. It was also our gateway to Bruges.
“How can that be, and what happened?” you ask.
In 1134, a massive coastal storm created a tidal channel, the Zwin, between the North Sea and Bruges. The Zwin was the ‘golden inlet’ for this then sleepy town. With direct access to the North Sea, Bruges soon became a great harbor city, and “its trade, commerce, and power increased dramatically.”
The Zwin, though, wasn’t a natural channel, and less than 200 years later, it began to silt up. In time, Bruges was landlocked, cut off from the sea.
The Port of Zeebrugge, built in 1907, was the largest port in Belgium and second largest port in Europe. It was also our gateway to Bruges.
David and I showered, dressed, ate breakfast, walked off the ship at eight, and...
|
…boarded a shuttle that took us to the exit gate for the port. From there, we walked to Zeebrugge Kerk (the nearest tram station), rode a tram to Blankenberge Station, and boarded a train to Bruges. Our version of Plains, Trains, and Automobiles (the 1987 comedy that starred John Candy and Steve Martin) went off without a hitch.
|
|
With wait times, we reached Bruges just past ten.
It was hot. Not ‘Arizona hot’, mind you, which David and I were accustomed to, but unseasonably hot for Bruges – 81 degrees by noon, almost 20 degrees warmer than the average daily high temperature in May, a month in which it “rarely exceeded 72.” So much for ‘rarely’, I thought.
Bruges, derived from the Old Scandinavian word ‘Brygga’ meaning ‘harbor’ (remember, it once was!), was the capital of the province of West Flanders and sixth largest city in Belgium (pop. 118,000). Its recorded history dated to the 9th century when it was founded by the Vikings, although the first fortification in the area was built during the reign of Julius Caesar in the first century BC. Bruges gained city status in the 12th century.
It was hot. Not ‘Arizona hot’, mind you, which David and I were accustomed to, but unseasonably hot for Bruges – 81 degrees by noon, almost 20 degrees warmer than the average daily high temperature in May, a month in which it “rarely exceeded 72.” So much for ‘rarely’, I thought.
Bruges, derived from the Old Scandinavian word ‘Brygga’ meaning ‘harbor’ (remember, it once was!), was the capital of the province of West Flanders and sixth largest city in Belgium (pop. 118,000). Its recorded history dated to the 9th century when it was founded by the Vikings, although the first fortification in the area was built during the reign of Julius Caesar in the first century BC. Bruges gained city status in the 12th century.
A Few Fun Facts
|
Bruges (Brugge in Dutch) was Belgium’s most popular place to visit, with about nine million tourists a year. During high season, tourists outnumbered residents by three to one.
UNESCO added the historic center of Bruges – an oval-shaped area less than two square miles in size – to its list of World Heritage Sites in 2000.
UNESCO added the historic center of Bruges – an oval-shaped area less than two square miles in size – to its list of World Heritage Sites in 2000.
|
Brugge is an outstanding example of a medieval historic settlement, which has maintained its historic fabric as this has evolved over the centuries, and where original Gothic constructions form part of the town's identity. As one of the commercial and cultural capitals of Europe, Brugge developed cultural links to different parts of the world. It is closely associated with the school of Flemish Primitive painting.
|
When I researched top sights, I quickly realized that there were too many landmarks for David and me to see in the time we had. When I mentioned this to David, he said, “You’ve traveled more than me, so you decide. I trust your judgement.”
No pressure, right?!
I pored over travelers’ reviews on Tripadvisor, my go-to site for hotels, restaurants, and attractions. A few hours later, I cobbled together an interesting list of iconic sites and a can’t-miss restaurant for lunch, which I entered in Google Maps. Voila, David and I had a customized guide of ‘memories in the making’!
No pressure, right?!
I pored over travelers’ reviews on Tripadvisor, my go-to site for hotels, restaurants, and attractions. A few hours later, I cobbled together an interesting list of iconic sites and a can’t-miss restaurant for lunch, which I entered in Google Maps. Voila, David and I had a customized guide of ‘memories in the making’!
With phone in hand, we set out for our first stop, the Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaerde, a scant half-mile from the train station.
|
On the way, we crossed a bridge that spanned a canal south of town center. The water was calm and peaceful; its surface cast a mirror image of the overhanging trees.
|
Like Amsterdam, Strasbourg, Venice, and a handful of other European cities, Bruges was a canal-based city, with both an inner- and outer-canal loop.
|
The canals of Bruges are part of the personality of the city. They are one of the main attractions…to the extent that the city is known as the ‘Venice of the North’. Navigating through them and discovering the most hidden corners of Bruges is almost a must to enjoy the essence of the city.
|
~ UNESCO
|
“Check out that building across the canal,” I said to David. “Isn’t it beautiful?”
“Wow! I love the twin towers. And look at the setting. I wonder what it is.” “At first, I thought it was a house, but with the tables, chairs, and umbrellas on the patio, it might be a restaurant or party center,” I answered. Later, on board the Sapphire Princess, I discovered that this was Kasteel (Castle) de la Faille, a manor house built in 1893 for Leon De Wulf, a merchant who owned a flour mill on the outer canal. At some point in its life, the manor was repurposed as a restaurant, and renamed Kasteel Minnewater. |
|
|
Soon, we passed through a gatehouse and crossed the Beguinage Bridge. We were now in the historic center of Bruges, and just a few steps from the Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaerde, a complex of buildings that included a row of whitewashed houses with red-tiled roofs and a Gothic-style church.
|
“What exactly is a Beguinage?” David asked.
“The answer starts with the question, ‘What’s a Beguine,” I began. “Beguines were a lay religious group of women who lived as nuns in communities like this. But they did not take vows and were free to leave and marry. So, a Beguinage was the complex they lived in. This one, by the way, was founded in the mid-13th century.”
David acknowledged with an appreciative nod.
“The answer starts with the question, ‘What’s a Beguine,” I began. “Beguines were a lay religious group of women who lived as nuns in communities like this. But they did not take vows and were free to leave and marry. So, a Beguinage was the complex they lived in. This one, by the way, was founded in the mid-13th century.”
David acknowledged with an appreciative nod.
The Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaerde (Wijngaerde meant ‘vineyard’ in Flemish) was one of 13 Beguine sites in the Flanders Region of Belgium, and the only preserved Beguinage in the city. ‘Princely’ was added to its name in 1299 after it came under the authority of King Philip the Fair.
Bruges’ last Beguine passed away in 1930, and since 1927, the Beguinage has been a Benedictine convent.
Bruges’ last Beguine passed away in 1930, and since 1927, the Beguinage has been a Benedictine convent.
|
We entered Sint Elisabeth, a 17th century church that one traveler described as “a place of rest in the sometimes-hectic Bruges.” There were memorials and tombstones on the floor, four sculpted figures around the pulpit, and carved benches along both side walls. The interior was lit by sunlight that filtered through eight stained-glass windows, four on each side.
On a continuum of modest to ornate, the interior features leaned towards modest. Still, standing in the nave, I had the same serene feelings I’ve felt in every church I’ve visited – joy, love, and peace. |
|
I checked the map, and then said to David, “It’s a little over half of a mile to our next stop, which is Burg Square.”
|
We crossed a canal and turned left on Wijngaardstraat (Vineyard Street – how quaint!). Like many of the streets we walked along, Wijngaardstraat was made of flat cobblestones and flanked by medieval architecture on both sides of the street – part of this city’s old-world charm.
With more than 70 chocolate shops in its historic center, Bruges was described as a 'chocoholic’s dream destination'. “David,” I began, “have you noticed how many chocolate shops there are on this street?” “Too many to count,” he replied. “I’m surprised you haven’t stopped to buy something for mom. You know how she loves milk chocolates.” |
“Believe me, I do! But it’s too hot to carry chocolate for too long, so we’ll stop in a shop on our way out of town.”
Not all sites that David and I saw were on our itinerary. Such was our next stop, Sint-Janshospitaal (St. John’s Hospital).
Not all sites that David and I saw were on our itinerary. Such was our next stop, Sint-Janshospitaal (St. John’s Hospital).
|
One of the oldest preserved hospital buildings in Europe – it traced its roots to the middle of the 12th century – Sint-Janshospitaal was repurposed as a museum, with medical exhibits and a gallery of art. We did not have time to tour the museum, but…
“Dad, let’s see what’s on the other side of the arched opening,” David said. It was a courtyard garden with herbaceous vegetation, manicured hedges, and sculptures. The most poignant sculpture was the ‘Kiss of Peace’, described as “two monks comforting each other after their monastery was bombed in World War Two.” |
|
Back on the street, we took a right, a left, and a right on Breidelstraat. Burg Square was straight ahead, but before we got there…
|
…we stopped at Chez Albert to try a traditional Belgian dessert – a freshly-made gaufre topped with a mound of fresh strawberries. What? You aren’t familiar with this French word? How about ‘waffle’?
I opted for plain, while David slathered his strawberries and waffle with chocolate sauce. He took a bite and exclaimed, “Holy cow, this is delicious!” |
“Really? Better than Eggos?” I asked with a wink. “Of course, they are – probably the best I’ve had.”
When we finished our gaufres – we savored every bite! – we walked less than a hundred paces to reach Burg Square. The view was grand, even under a cloudy sky!
When we finished our gaufres – we savored every bite! – we walked less than a hundred paces to reach Burg Square. The view was grand, even under a cloudy sky!
The largest building, and perhaps best-known, was the Gothic-style City Hall, built between 1376 and 1420. Nearly 600 years later, it was still the seat of city government.
The ornate façade included Gothic-style windows and columns of stone statues of royal and biblical figures – forty-eight in all.
The ornate façade included Gothic-style windows and columns of stone statues of royal and biblical figures – forty-eight in all.
“David, the windows on the second story are original – more than half a millennium old,” I said. “Boy, that’s a mighty long time!”
“Well, some things were built to last,” he replied. “How about the statues?”
“No, they’re not. The original ones were destroyed by pro-French rebels in the late 18th century, at the height of the French Revolution.”
“Well,” David said with a chuckle, “maybe not everything was built to last.”
“Well, some things were built to last,” he replied. “How about the statues?”
“No, they’re not. The original ones were destroyed by pro-French rebels in the late 18th century, at the height of the French Revolution.”
“Well,” David said with a chuckle, “maybe not everything was built to last.”
|
The Palace of the Liberty of Bruges occupied the space to the left of City Hall. Built in the 1720s, it was a “rare example of Renaissance architecture in Bruges.”
“Was this the palace of freedom?” asked David. “It was a courthouse, so for some – the innocents – I guess it was a palace of freedom,” I replied with a grin. “But, in this case, ‘Liberty’ was the name of a district around Bruges in the Middle Ages.” |
|
The façade, painted white and trimmed in gold, was a real eye-catcher. Was it gold leaf, I wondered, or gold-colored paint. I never learned the answer.
Seven golden statues stood on the roof. In the middle, standing higher than the other six, was Lady Justice with a set of scales in her right hand.
The Palace of the Liberty of Bruges, which now housed the city’s archives, served as a courthouse until 1984.
Seven golden statues stood on the roof. In the middle, standing higher than the other six, was Lady Justice with a set of scales in her right hand.
The Palace of the Liberty of Bruges, which now housed the city’s archives, served as a courthouse until 1984.
|
I turned my attention to a building tucked away in the corner of the square, to the right of City Hall. It was the Basilica of the Holy Blood.
David knew that I loved to visit churches when I traveled, so before I could say anything, he said, “I know…we’re going inside. Right?” |
“You betcha!” I beamed.
The Basilica of the Holy Blood, a Roman Catholic church, was promoted to a minor basilica in 1923. It had two distinct chapels – the lower chapel, built in the Romanesque style in the first half of the 12th century, was dedicated to St. Basil the Great, while the upper chapel, built in the Gothic Revival style, was constructed near the end of the 15th century.
The upper chapel housed a revered relic – a cloth with the Holy Blood from the body of Christ that was preserved in an ornate crystal vial. The vial was displayed twice each day – after morning mass and again in the afternoon. Unfortunately, we arrived too late this morning to view it.
As we soon learned, the two chapels could not be more different.
The dimly lit lower chapel was small and austere. The central nave, two side naves, and a semi-circular apse were constructed with rough-hewn stones and bare bricks. Yet, as one traveler noted, “there is something seriously moving and spiritual in its simplicity.”
David and I were drawn to two deeply religious statues. (Both, of course, were replicas.)
The Basilica of the Holy Blood, a Roman Catholic church, was promoted to a minor basilica in 1923. It had two distinct chapels – the lower chapel, built in the Romanesque style in the first half of the 12th century, was dedicated to St. Basil the Great, while the upper chapel, built in the Gothic Revival style, was constructed near the end of the 15th century.
The upper chapel housed a revered relic – a cloth with the Holy Blood from the body of Christ that was preserved in an ornate crystal vial. The vial was displayed twice each day – after morning mass and again in the afternoon. Unfortunately, we arrived too late this morning to view it.
As we soon learned, the two chapels could not be more different.
The dimly lit lower chapel was small and austere. The central nave, two side naves, and a semi-circular apse were constructed with rough-hewn stones and bare bricks. Yet, as one traveler noted, “there is something seriously moving and spiritual in its simplicity.”
David and I were drawn to two deeply religious statues. (Both, of course, were replicas.)
|
Christ on the Cold Stone, which was displayed in an annex near the entrance, depicted Jesus at the moment before the Crucifixion, with his hands bound and a crown of thorns on his head. The small nave on the left held the Pieta, which depicted the Virgin Mary, tears running down her cheeks, as she held the dead body of Jesus.
|
|
Each May, these statues were paraded through the streets of Bruges during the Procession of the Holy Blood.
“David,” I said. “Mom and I saw the original Pieta by Michelangelo when we toured St. Peter’s Basilica in 2016. It was sculpted from marble, and much larger than this one. And I remember this piece of trivia about it – it was the only sculpture that Michelangelo signed.”
We climbed the brick staircase that led to the upper chapel.
“Man, what a contrast to the lower chapel,” David quietly observed.
This chapel was ornate. Curved arches, marble altar, large wall-paintings and a fresco, decorations typical of basilicas, and color, color, color! And it was bright, as the light of day sifted through the large stained-glass windows.
“David,” I said. “Mom and I saw the original Pieta by Michelangelo when we toured St. Peter’s Basilica in 2016. It was sculpted from marble, and much larger than this one. And I remember this piece of trivia about it – it was the only sculpture that Michelangelo signed.”
We climbed the brick staircase that led to the upper chapel.
“Man, what a contrast to the lower chapel,” David quietly observed.
This chapel was ornate. Curved arches, marble altar, large wall-paintings and a fresco, decorations typical of basilicas, and color, color, color! And it was bright, as the light of day sifted through the large stained-glass windows.
Yes, the interiors were distinctively different, but both chapels evoked the same spiritual emotions: hope and peace.
“How are we doing on time, dad?” David asked.
I looked at my watch. It was half past noon. I looked at the map. Lots of territory yet to cover.
“A bit behind schedule, but I think we’ll be fine. Let’s head to our next stop, Market Square.”
“Talk to me as we walk,” David said. “Tell me about Market Square.”
“I’ll have to talk fast, because we’ll be there in a few minutes,” I replied with a smile. “Market Square dates from the middle of the 10th century. In fact, it has hosted a weekly market since 985.”
I let this fact sink in before I continued.
“The square is dominated by a very tall tower, which we’ll visit, and an imposing courthouse. I’ll tell you about each when we see them.”
And then we were there.
“How are we doing on time, dad?” David asked.
I looked at my watch. It was half past noon. I looked at the map. Lots of territory yet to cover.
“A bit behind schedule, but I think we’ll be fine. Let’s head to our next stop, Market Square.”
“Talk to me as we walk,” David said. “Tell me about Market Square.”
“I’ll have to talk fast, because we’ll be there in a few minutes,” I replied with a smile. “Market Square dates from the middle of the 10th century. In fact, it has hosted a weekly market since 985.”
I let this fact sink in before I continued.
“The square is dominated by a very tall tower, which we’ll visit, and an imposing courthouse. I’ll tell you about each when we see them.”
And then we were there.
“Geez!” exclaimed David. “This is so much bigger than Burg Square, and a lot more colorful.”
“Before we see the sights, I’d like to take a panoramic shot – a full 360 degrees – from the center of the square.”
David indulged me.
“Before we see the sights, I’d like to take a panoramic shot – a full 360 degrees – from the center of the square.”
David indulged me.
I had read that Market Square was the “beating heart of the city.” It was, indeed!
“Well, what will it be, David. The next landmark or lunch?
“I’m not hungry yet. So, where do we go?”
“The Belfry,” I answered.
“Well, what will it be, David. The next landmark or lunch?
“I’m not hungry yet. So, where do we go?”
“The Belfry,” I answered.
In the market-place of Bruges stands the belfry old and brown;
Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilded, still it watches o'er the town.
As the summer morn was breaking, on that lofty tower I stood,
And the world threw off the darkness, like the weeds of widowhood.
Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilded, still it watches o'er the town.
As the summer morn was breaking, on that lofty tower I stood,
And the world threw off the darkness, like the weeds of widowhood.
~ from The Belfry of Bruges (1846) by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
|
There was no missing the Belfry, which stood on the south side of Market Square.
“How tall do you think it is?” I asked David. “I don’t know,” he said. “Maybe three hundred feet, about the length of a football field.” “You’re not far off. It’s 272 feet tall. It was built in the middle of the 13th century, although the octagonal section at the top was added a couple of hundred years later. The rectangular building below the tower served as a market hall.” |
|
“So, a belfry is a bell tower, right.” David said. “Do they still ring the bells?”
“Yes, it is, and they do,” I replied. “There are 47 bells that chime during the summer months.” David and I walked through the market hall and into the courtyard. I pointed to the line of people who waited to climb the stairs. “David, there are 334 steps to the top. It’s a bit of a climb, but I read that the views from the top are killer.” I said. “Would you like to join them?” (I already knew the answer, but I waited.) “Not today,” David said with a laugh. “I’ll get my exercise walking around Bruges.” |
|
|
I spied a round metal frame surrounded by tall grass and adorned with colorful objects. Except, as we learned from a nearby storyboard, it wasn’t grass – it was flax. And it wasn’t colorful objects – it was spools of linen thread made from spun flax that were dyed in many colors.
We also learned that “the tradition of weaving lace dates to the 16th century when thousands of girls and women earned Bruges worldwide fame for their intricate patterns and designs.” Situated near the “fruitful Belgium flax fields,” Bruges soon became the center of production of lacemaking in Belgium. |
And now we knew the rest of the story!
The thread was free for the taking, so David and I snapped off several one-foot lengths in different colors – a no-cost souvenir from our day in Bruges.
“Let’s head back to the square,” I said to David. “I’d like to take a closer look at the Provincial Court.”
If the Belfry was the most prominent building on Market Square, the Provincial Court, which was the centerpiece of this three-part complex on the east side of the square, had to be a close second.
The thread was free for the taking, so David and I snapped off several one-foot lengths in different colors – a no-cost souvenir from our day in Bruges.
“Let’s head back to the square,” I said to David. “I’d like to take a closer look at the Provincial Court.”
If the Belfry was the most prominent building on Market Square, the Provincial Court, which was the centerpiece of this three-part complex on the east side of the square, had to be a close second.
"This was not the first building on this site,” I said to David. “Can you imagine this area as the waterfront property it was in the 13th century? If so, then envision the warehouse that once stood here, withs ships in the harbor that unloaded and loaded their goods.”
I thought I detected a nod, so I continued.
“In the 1700s, the warehouse gave way to a complex of houses, shops, and cafes. That complex was destroyed by fire in the late 1800s. Soon after, the first phase of this building was completed. The second phase was finished in the early 1900s. The Provincial Court was home to the city council for more than 100 years.”
“That’s quite a history,” David said. “I know that council chambers were moved to City Hall on Burg Square, so what is this building used for now?”
“It’s a ceremonial building used on occasion as an exhibition hall,” I replied. “Are you hungry, or should we push on?”
“Still good, if you are.”
We pushed on.
I checked our map. The next stop was Kruispoort, the best-preserved of Bruges four remaining city gates.
I thought I detected a nod, so I continued.
“In the 1700s, the warehouse gave way to a complex of houses, shops, and cafes. That complex was destroyed by fire in the late 1800s. Soon after, the first phase of this building was completed. The second phase was finished in the early 1900s. The Provincial Court was home to the city council for more than 100 years.”
“That’s quite a history,” David said. “I know that council chambers were moved to City Hall on Burg Square, so what is this building used for now?”
“It’s a ceremonial building used on occasion as an exhibition hall,” I replied. “Are you hungry, or should we push on?”
“Still good, if you are.”
We pushed on.
I checked our map. The next stop was Kruispoort, the best-preserved of Bruges four remaining city gates.
|
On the way, we made another unplanned stop, this time at Sint-Walburgakerk (St. Walburga’s Church).
With a couple of taps on my phone, I found this ‘history in a nutshell’ on the website for the Bruges Convention Bureau. “Listen to this,” I said to David. |
|
In 1619, a Bruges lay brother, Pieter Huyssens, was commissioned to build a prestigious church that expressed the values and beliefs of the Jesuits. The result was the St. Walburga's Church, which is the most richly decorated church in pure Baroque style in Bruges. Admire its dynamic facade, its many interior architectural details, and the elaborately decorated church furniture.
|
The sandstone façade was interesting, but the interior blew us away!
|
The church floor had a geometric motif created with black and white tiles, almost op-art in appearance. The seven arched bays on either side of the center aisle drew our eyes up to the tall, vaulted ceiling and forward to an elaborate marble altar with a statue of St. Walburga. There were many paintings, including the Resurrection by the 18th century artist Joseph-Benoit Suvee, which hung above the altar.
David nudged me as I admired the altar and painting. “Beautiful, isn’t it,” he said. “Not just the altar, but the whole interior of this church.” |
|
“Yes, it is,” I replied. “On par, I think, with several of the churches we saw in England.”
“I know that you could stand here for an hour,” David said, “but let’s not, as we still have a couple of landmarks to see before we stop for lunch.”
As we walked, I said to David, “It’s hard to imagine now, but Bruges, like many medieval towns, was once a walled city. And if you had walls, you had to have gates. Once there were eight gates in the walls around this city, but four were demolished when the walls were razed near the end of the 18th century. Kruispoort, which translates to ‘Cross Gate’, is the best preserved.”
“I know that you could stand here for an hour,” David said, “but let’s not, as we still have a couple of landmarks to see before we stop for lunch.”
As we walked, I said to David, “It’s hard to imagine now, but Bruges, like many medieval towns, was once a walled city. And if you had walls, you had to have gates. Once there were eight gates in the walls around this city, but four were demolished when the walls were razed near the end of the 18th century. Kruispoort, which translates to ‘Cross Gate’, is the best preserved.”
“This gate was the third iteration, constructed in 1400,” I continued. “And all that is left are the two heavy towers and octagonal turrets.”
“Still, I’m amazed that we’re standing in front of something built more than 600 years ago,” David said. “It does look solid, though…and castle-like.”
“Solid is a testament to the craftmanship,” I said, “the castle-like appearance reflected the design of the day, when many of the great castles of Europe were built.”
David pointed to the towers. “Check out the vertical openings. I bet that was where archers stood to shoot their arrows.”
“Still, I’m amazed that we’re standing in front of something built more than 600 years ago,” David said. “It does look solid, though…and castle-like.”
“Solid is a testament to the craftmanship,” I said, “the castle-like appearance reflected the design of the day, when many of the great castles of Europe were built.”
David pointed to the towers. “Check out the vertical openings. I bet that was where archers stood to shoot their arrows.”
|
We walked through the gate to see what was on the other side. It was the western edge of the outer-canal loop. And the road where David stood? It was once a drawbridge.
|
“David, see that windmill?” I asked. “That’s Sint-Janshuismolen, our next stop. Let’s go.”
“Back in the day, there were 25 windmills in Bruges,” I told David as we walked. “Now there are four. Two things distinguish this one, which was built in 1770, from the other three. First, it’s the only surviving windmill that occupies its original site. Second, it’s the only mill that still grinds grain into flour.”
|
Sint-Janshuismolen (Saint Janshuis Mill) stood on a grassy rampart created when the second city wall was built near the end of the 13th century. The four vanes, also called sails or blades, were trimmed in red, white, and blue – the colors of the flag of Bruges.
Many of the reviews I read said something like, “Go when the sails are turning.” Yes, it would have been glorious to see the sails spin, but…it did not happen this day for David and me. A stone staircase sliced the rampart from bottom to top – maybe 50 steps or so in total. |
“Dad, we need to take a closer look. Let’s head up.”
And so, we did.
And so, we did.
|
The millhouse, which was made of wood, rested on a wooden base.
“David, I read that there is something called a ‘tail’ on the other side. It was used to rotate the entire mill house to follow changes in wind direction. Let’s take a look.” |
|
Not only did we spot the tail, but we also spied a wooden staircase that led up to a platform with a door. The mill house was closed, but not the staircase. Up, up, up I climbed with confidence. At the top, I enjoyed a lovely view of the surrounding area. I descended with less confidence, as the staircase was steep – closer to vertical than horizontal. Not for the faint of heart, right?!
“David, it’s a quarter past one. Are you ready for lunch?”
“I sure am. Where to?”
“La Belle Vue on Market Square.”
Fifteen minutes later, we were seated at a table for two on the patio.
“Would you like something to drink?” our waiter asked.
That’s a rhetorical question if I ever heard one, I thought…but I said, “Yes, a couple of Belgium beers. What would you recommend?”
“David, it’s a quarter past one. Are you ready for lunch?”
“I sure am. Where to?”
“La Belle Vue on Market Square.”
Fifteen minutes later, we were seated at a table for two on the patio.
“Would you like something to drink?” our waiter asked.
That’s a rhetorical question if I ever heard one, I thought…but I said, “Yes, a couple of Belgium beers. What would you recommend?”
|
After a bit of probing about our taste in beers, he recommended the Dubbel from Westmalle for David (“a dark, red-brown Trappist beer with hints of caramel, malt, and ripe bananas”) and a Golden Blond from Charles Quint for me (“a sweet, spicy taste with a creamy, white head”). Who, I wondered, came up with these descriptions?!
|
Our waiter was spot on – the beers tasted great and went down easy.
|
“What’ll it be for lunch, David?”
“Flemish rabbit stew for me. And you?” “I’m feeling less adventurous. Beefsteak stew.” |
|
We placed our orders, sipped our beers, and chowed down when our meals arrived.
“I’ve never had rabbit, so I have nothing to compare this too,” David said. “But I have to say, this stew was delicious!”
Mine was too.
I checked my watch. It was half past two.
“David, we’ve seen all the landmarks we planned to see – and a couple more. All that’s left for us to do is shop for souvenirs…oh, and chocolates for mom. Let’s do this on our way to the train station.”
First things first – chocolates for Debra. There were a dozen or more chocolate shops around the square. Eeny, meeny, miny, moe. I chose the Chocolate Line. It proved to be a great choice, as Debra loved the large box of artisan chocolates I bought for her.
David and I walked along canals and down cobbled streets as we made our way to the train station. The swans we saw were part of a flock of 100 or so that Bruges kept as its official mascots. Clearly, these swans were accustomed to humans, as they paid no mind to us or the boatload of tourists who cruised the canal.
“I’ve never had rabbit, so I have nothing to compare this too,” David said. “But I have to say, this stew was delicious!”
Mine was too.
I checked my watch. It was half past two.
“David, we’ve seen all the landmarks we planned to see – and a couple more. All that’s left for us to do is shop for souvenirs…oh, and chocolates for mom. Let’s do this on our way to the train station.”
First things first – chocolates for Debra. There were a dozen or more chocolate shops around the square. Eeny, meeny, miny, moe. I chose the Chocolate Line. It proved to be a great choice, as Debra loved the large box of artisan chocolates I bought for her.
David and I walked along canals and down cobbled streets as we made our way to the train station. The swans we saw were part of a flock of 100 or so that Bruges kept as its official mascots. Clearly, these swans were accustomed to humans, as they paid no mind to us or the boatload of tourists who cruised the canal.
|
|
|
We heard the clip-clop of a horse drawn carriage before we saw it. Another time, I thought. This street was lined with shops. David and I wandered into a few that looked promising.
One shop had plaster cast figures – bowmen, knights, peasants, nobles, and other characters from the Middle Ages.
“I’m going to buy two or three,” David said. “They'll be a great way for me to remember this medieval town.”
I found my go-to souvenir in another shop – a blue baseball cap with Bruges emblazoned on the front panel.
“Dad, there’s still one more purchase we need to make,” David announced. “Four bottles of Belgium beer to enjoy with dinner on sea days.”
That’s my boy, I thought.
We found a shop that sold beers (there are almost as many beer stores I thought, as there were chocolate shops), selected four including the two we had at lunch, and reached the train station midafternoon.
From start to finish, we had walked about five miles – a tribute to how accessible the historic center of Bruges was by foot.
The journey back was as easy as the journey out – and a bit quicker, so we boarded the Sapphire Princess with time to spare before it set sail.
One shop had plaster cast figures – bowmen, knights, peasants, nobles, and other characters from the Middle Ages.
“I’m going to buy two or three,” David said. “They'll be a great way for me to remember this medieval town.”
I found my go-to souvenir in another shop – a blue baseball cap with Bruges emblazoned on the front panel.
“Dad, there’s still one more purchase we need to make,” David announced. “Four bottles of Belgium beer to enjoy with dinner on sea days.”
That’s my boy, I thought.
We found a shop that sold beers (there are almost as many beer stores I thought, as there were chocolate shops), selected four including the two we had at lunch, and reached the train station midafternoon.
From start to finish, we had walked about five miles – a tribute to how accessible the historic center of Bruges was by foot.
The journey back was as easy as the journey out – and a bit quicker, so we boarded the Sapphire Princess with time to spare before it set sail.
|
We showered, dressed, and headed to the Santa Fe dining room for dinner. Afterwards, we went to the Princess Theater, where we listened to the smooth vocals of songwriter and singer Lance Ellington.
It was a beautiful evening at sea, with a slight breeze that was more from the motion of the ship than the movement of the air itself. David and I relaxed in deck chairs near the rail to reminisce about the sights we saw as the sun set on an awesome day in Bruges. |
|
I won’t burden you with our conversation, except this snippet from David.
“Dad, I know you were anxious about our itinerary – so many landmarks to see with too little time to see them all. I have to say that you nailed it! I have great memories that will last me a lifetime. Thank you.”
Aah…the pressure of cobbling together the list of iconic sites – our ‘memories in the making’ – was well worth it.
If you haven’t visited Bruges, I hope one day you do. I’m confident that you will love this city – its culture, medieval history, architectural design, and more - as much as we did.
Tomorrow, we will be at sea as we sail to our next stop, Copenhagen. Here’s the teaser: David and I will tour a stronghold immortalized by Shakespeare.
I look forward to sharing our experiences with you in my next story.
“Dad, I know you were anxious about our itinerary – so many landmarks to see with too little time to see them all. I have to say that you nailed it! I have great memories that will last me a lifetime. Thank you.”
Aah…the pressure of cobbling together the list of iconic sites – our ‘memories in the making’ – was well worth it.
If you haven’t visited Bruges, I hope one day you do. I’m confident that you will love this city – its culture, medieval history, architectural design, and more - as much as we did.
Tomorrow, we will be at sea as we sail to our next stop, Copenhagen. Here’s the teaser: David and I will tour a stronghold immortalized by Shakespeare.
I look forward to sharing our experiences with you in my next story.