In April/May 2018, Debra and I cruised the Rhine River for eight days on the Viking Mani. We sailed from Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam, the Netherlands, with port stops in Germany, France and the Netherlands. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this fantastic cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Heidelberg and Rudesheim.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Heidelberg and Rudesheim.
Heidelberg, Germany (April 30, 2018) We sailed from Strasbourg last night and arrived in Mannheim in the wee hours of the morning. Mannheim wasn’t our destination – well, at least not our destination for sightseeing. Rather, it was the debarkation point for a morning excursion. Unfortunately, Debra wasn’t feeling well – she had a sore throat and the sniffles, so she stayed on board the Mani to rest up.
I joined fellow passengers and Cruise Director Sharon (who doubled as our tour guide) on a short drive southeast to Heidelberg (pop. 160,000), a university town located on the Neckar River in southwest Germany. About 40,000 students attend the prestigious Heidelberg University. Founded in 1366, it is the oldest university in Germany and one of the oldest surviving universities in the world.
I joined fellow passengers and Cruise Director Sharon (who doubled as our tour guide) on a short drive southeast to Heidelberg (pop. 160,000), a university town located on the Neckar River in southwest Germany. About 40,000 students attend the prestigious Heidelberg University. Founded in 1366, it is the oldest university in Germany and one of the oldest surviving universities in the world.
The town traces its roots to the fifth century when the village of Bergheim (“Mountain Home”) was settled by the Celts at a location that lies in the middle of present-day Heidelberg. The first reference to Heidelberg was in a late 12th century religious document. In the 17th century, Heidelberg was devastated by the Thirty Years’ War, fought primarily in Central Europe, and largely destroyed by the French in the War of the Grand Alliance. As a result, the architecture of present-day Heidelberg is largely 18th century Baroque.
For A Man's House Is His Schloss
This phrase, substituting the English “castle” for the German “schloss,” originated in a ruling from the King’s Bench (the English court of common law) in 1644. Almost 500 years later, we still use this phrase to illustrate a person’s fundamental right to personal privacy. “And why is this relevant to your story?” you ask. Well, in addition to being home to a prestigious university, Heidelberg is also well-known for Castle Heidelberg, the first stop on our tour.
For A Man's House Is His Schloss
This phrase, substituting the English “castle” for the German “schloss,” originated in a ruling from the King’s Bench (the English court of common law) in 1644. Almost 500 years later, we still use this phrase to illustrate a person’s fundamental right to personal privacy. “And why is this relevant to your story?” you ask. Well, in addition to being home to a prestigious university, Heidelberg is also well-known for Castle Heidelberg, the first stop on our tour.
A ruin must be rightly situated, to be effective.
This one could not have been better placed.
~ Mark Twain commenting on Heidelberg Castle, which he visited in 1878
This one could not have been better placed.
~ Mark Twain commenting on Heidelberg Castle, which he visited in 1878
Schloss Heidelberg sits on a hill 300 feet above the city, giving it a commanding view of the town and surrounding area. It is comprised of several buildings around a central courtyard. The first structure, which dates to the early 13th century, became known as the “lower castle” when the “upper castle” was completed near the end of that century. The lower castle served as a royal residence for several hundred years.
The castle, like the town, had a history of destruction and reconstruction: a lightning bolt destroyed the upper castle in the 16th century; the castle was expanded in the 17th century; and a fire ignited by a lightning bolt destroyed parts of the castle in the 18th century. The 18th century fire made the castle uninhabitable, and the red-brick ruins were plundered to build homes.
So, what does one do with a ruined castle? In the present case, the answer was “restore AND preserve.” In the late 19th century, designers and architects began the process of restoring the façade, roof, and parts of the interior of the Friedrich Building, the magnificent residential palace of Elector Friedrich IV (1583 – 1610). The sculptures of emperors and kings that adorned the façade were replaced with replicas. It was a magnificent display!
The castle, like the town, had a history of destruction and reconstruction: a lightning bolt destroyed the upper castle in the 16th century; the castle was expanded in the 17th century; and a fire ignited by a lightning bolt destroyed parts of the castle in the 18th century. The 18th century fire made the castle uninhabitable, and the red-brick ruins were plundered to build homes.
So, what does one do with a ruined castle? In the present case, the answer was “restore AND preserve.” In the late 19th century, designers and architects began the process of restoring the façade, roof, and parts of the interior of the Friedrich Building, the magnificent residential palace of Elector Friedrich IV (1583 – 1610). The sculptures of emperors and kings that adorned the façade were replaced with replicas. It was a magnificent display!
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The remaining buildings and other structures were protected in their then-current condition.
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We entered the castle’s courtyard through the Bridge House, which housed the gatekeepers. I glanced up as I passed through the archway; there I saw the spikes of the raised portcullis (a gate) that was an important part of the castle’s defense. We crossed the stone bridge and walked through the Clock Tower to reach the inner courtyard.
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The Glass Hall and Ottheinrich buildings were to the right of Friedrich. The Glass Hall (center building in the photo to the right) connected Friedrich to Ottheinrich and was named for the Venetian mirror glass that once decorated the upper floor. The Ottheinrich was a palace built in the mid-16th century during the rule of Elector Otto Henry. It was adorned with statues of biblical figures and famous Romans.
I marveled at the architectural details as our guide shared the history of each building. When she finished, I stepped back 20 paces or so to view the buildings collectively. In my mind’s eye, I could see the grandeur of this palatial “complex.” It was magnificent! |
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The wine cellar was the only interior room we had time to see. And quite a wine cellar it was, as Schloss Heidelberg has the largest wine barrel (the “Great Tun”) in the world. Built in 1751, it is 21 feet high, 24 feet long, and holds 58,000 gallons of wine. That’s one million glasses of wine!
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My favorite part of the tour was when I stood on the Great Terrace, where I had a panoramic view of Heidelberg. I saw a townscape dominated by hundreds (thousands?) of red-roofed homes and buildings, the Old Bridge that spans the Neckar River, stately homes, and densely forested hills. The scenery was breathtaking!
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Old Town
We drove a short distance to “old town,” where we had free time to explore the historic buildings and quaint shops. With map in hand, I walked from the market square to narrow cobblestone streets lined with three- and four-story buildings – shops and cafes on the first floor and residences above. I was in search of two churches that I wanted to see.
We drove a short distance to “old town,” where we had free time to explore the historic buildings and quaint shops. With map in hand, I walked from the market square to narrow cobblestone streets lined with three- and four-story buildings – shops and cafes on the first floor and residences above. I was in search of two churches that I wanted to see.
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The first was the 18th century Jesuitenkirche (“Jesuit Church”), which is located near the university. The façade, which rose three stories, was constructed with red sandstone. Inside the church, the columns stretched high to an arched ceiling from which crystal chandeliers hung halfway to the floor. The columns and pulpit were beautifully adorned and the all-white interior was stunning!
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The second was Heiliggeistkirche (“Church of the Holy Spirit”), the main Protestant church of Heidelberg. Constructed in stages from 1398 – 1441, it was destroyed by the French during the War of the Grand Alliance and subsequently rebuilt. The façade seemed to be constructed of the same red sandstone as the Jesuit Church; the architecture was lovely. The interior was simple, with its own charm.
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I walked to the riverfront for a closer look at the Karl Theodor Bridge (the “Old Bridge”), which was built in 1786. It connects old town with the residential district – the stately homes I saw from the Grand Terrace – on the eastern bank of the Neckar River.
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We reboarded the bus and drove to Gernsheim, about an hour north of Heidelberg. “Wait, didn’t you debark the Mani in Mannheim?” you ask. Right you are! While we toured Heidelberg, the Mani (with Debra on board!) continued upriver to Gernsheim, the next port on the Rhine. Once we were all on board, the Captain set sail for Rudesheim.
While we ate lunch, I showed some of the photos I took to Debra and told her a bit about the castle and old town.
After lunch we relaxed in our cabin, which had a “French balcony” – a sliding glass door sans an actual balcony. With the door opened, we watched as the Mani sailed past many picturesque villages and towns, each with a spired church, and the occasional manor. We pictured each idyllic setting as a 1000-piece jigsaw puzzle!
While we ate lunch, I showed some of the photos I took to Debra and told her a bit about the castle and old town.
After lunch we relaxed in our cabin, which had a “French balcony” – a sliding glass door sans an actual balcony. With the door opened, we watched as the Mani sailed past many picturesque villages and towns, each with a spired church, and the occasional manor. We pictured each idyllic setting as a 1000-piece jigsaw puzzle!
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Rudesheim
I went to the Sun Deck as we neared Rudesheim. From the wheelhouse, I watched as the Pilot navigated the last couple of miles and then docked the Mani just south of town.
I went to the Sun Deck as we neared Rudesheim. From the wheelhouse, I watched as the Pilot navigated the last couple of miles and then docked the Mani just south of town.
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Debra and I had a reservation for dinner and wine-tasting at nearby Eberbach Abbey, but we canceled because Debra was still not feeling well. Instead, I walked into Rudesheim (pop. 10,000), a German wine-making town that dates to the 11th century. I passed the ruins of the ninth century Bromserburg Castle, the oldest on the Rhine, and 12th century Boosenburg Castle. The beautiful building that fronts Boosenburg is the Carl Jung winery, completed in 1872.
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The town’s cobblestone streets and pedestrian lanes were lined with shops, cafes, and taverns. I purchased locally made Asbach brandy in one store (purely for medicinal purposes, mind you!) and enjoyed a regional beer at an outdoor café.
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Debra and I had a quiet dinner on board the Mani, and then retired to the lounge to listen to music and sip a nightcap.
Heidelberg was the highlight of our cruise to date, and I know that Debra would have loved it as much as I did. We have another full day of sightseeing tomorrow, starting with a scenic cruise of the castles of the Middle Rhine.
Heidelberg was the highlight of our cruise to date, and I know that Debra would have loved it as much as I did. We have another full day of sightseeing tomorrow, starting with a scenic cruise of the castles of the Middle Rhine.