Castles, Castles Everywhere!

In April/May 2018, Debra and I cruised the Rhine River for eight days on the Viking Mani. We sailed from Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam, the Netherlands, with port stops in Germany, France, and the Netherlands. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this fantastic cruise.

This story, which is part of a series, is about our scenic cruise through the Upper Middle Rhine Valley.

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Upper Middle Rhine Valley, Germany (May 1, 2018) The crew of the Viking Mani cast off the mooring lines about 9 this morning in Rudesheim, where we were docked overnight, and the helmsman pointed the ship upriver on a 40-mile voyage to Koblenz. The sky was gray and the weather cold and blustery.

​This morning's tour was the one that I had anticipated the most – a three-hour scenic cruise through the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, popularly known as the Rhine Gorge. “What’s so special about that?” you might ask. The answer, simply, is “castles.” Not just a few castles, mind you. Rather, as you can see on the map to the right (click to enlarge), there are more than 40 castles along this stretch of the Rhine Valley – perhaps the largest concentration of castles anywhere. AND. I. LOVE. CASTLES!

The Rhine Gorge, which extends from Bingen/Rudesheim to Koblenz, is perhaps the most scenic section of the river: steep hills, deep-ravined canyons, small towns, hillside vineyards, forests, churches, fortresses, toll houses, and (oh yeah!) castles. UNESCO designated the Rhine Gorge a World Heritage Site in 2002. I was stoked!

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Imbued with the spirit of German Romanticism, the Rhine River has inspired
fairy tales, fables, poetry, and paintings. Its mythical underwater maidens
and their magic gold provided the muse for Wagner’s "Ring" opera cycle. The evocative voyage from Mainz to Koblenz has been a favorite with travelers
since the 19th century. The stretch from Bingen, west of Mainz, runs
through a steep and narrow gorge, and has more castles than any other
​river in the world.
~ UNESCO

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Many of the castles dated from the second half of the Middle Ages – the 11th to 13th centuries. Some lay in ruins from age and/or battle scars, while others were restored, in whole or in part, and repurposed as hotels, restaurants, and museums. Each and every castle, no matter the condition, was captivating and imposing.

Debra and I snagged a couple of comfortable chairs on the Sun Deck – prime seating to enjoy this tour, which was narrated by Sharon, the Program Director for the Mani.

​I took more than 200 photos this morning...but don’t worry, for, as a fellow travel enthusiast said on her blog: “With so many landmarks, charming towns, and pretty sights to see along the way, I’ve limited this series of photos and bits of historical information to some of the highlights.” Good advice, which I have followed. So, without further ado…

The Mauseturm (in English, Mouse Tower), a stone tower that sits on a rock island between the towns of Rudesheim and Bingen, was one of many stations along the Rhine that collected transit tolls. It was built in the 13th century and restored in the 19th century. According to legend, the cruel and selfish bishop who collected tolls along the river and distributed food to villagers was devoured by mice in the tower! 

​The ruins of Ehrenfels Castle sit on the steep eastern bank of the Rhine, just north of Rudesheim. There was a fortress on this site before there was a castle – the former was built more than 1,000 years ago and the latter in the early 13th century. The castle, which was used in concert with Mauseturm to collect transit tolls, was destroyed by fire in 1689.

This is Assmannshausen, a village with medieval roots. I loved the townscape, which was typical of the many villages and towns we saw: a steepled church surrounded by quaint buildings of half-timbered construction that stretched along the riverfront. The village’s vineyards, planted on steep slopes, grow grapes that produce red Spatburgunder, otherwise known as Pinot Noir.  

Reichenstein Castle, also called Falkenburg, was built in the 11th century atop a rocky promontory in the neo-Gothic style. It was truly a large castle – perhaps the biggest we saw on this tour. Originally owned by one of the area’s notorious robber barons, the castle was left to decay in the 16th century. The present castle was rebuilt in the 19th and 20th centuries, first as a personal residence and later repurposed as a 50-bed hotel, museum, and event site.  

The Chapelle de Saint-Clement in Trechtingshausen was built in the 13th century. Quite lovely, isn’t it?!

The original Rheinstein Castle, constructed on a rugged cliff 270 feet above the Rhine River in the Loreley Valley, was completed in the 10th century as a customs post for the German Empire. The castle served as home to the Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf von Habsburg in the late 13th century. Too costly to maintain, it fell into disrepair. The ruins and foundation were purchased by the Royal Prince of Prussia, and the castle was rebuilt in the 19th century. 

The Rhine, which snakes 800 miles from Basel to Amsterdam, is one of the major rivers in Europe for transporting goods and raw materials. We passed many cargo barges on our way to Koblenz – all of a similar size and shape. 

Sooneck Castle, first constructed in the 11th century, took its name from the nearby Soon Forest. As with many other castles in this section of the Rhine, it was built to protect an area owned by the Kornelimunster Abbey, a Benedictine monastery founded in 814. The castle was twice destroyed (1282 and 1668) and rebuilt. The most recent restoration was completed in the late 1800s. 

This is another example of a vineyard on the steep slope of the Rhine. As I gazed at this vineyard (and others), I thought, “Quite a challenge to plant, I bet.” Then I realized that the real challenge was in harvesting the grapes! Difficult as it might seem, manual labor was largely replaced by a fully automated, machine-based process.  

Heimburg Castle, built in the late 13th century by the Archbishop of Mainz, sits on an oval hilltop above the picturesque village of Niederheimbach. Left to decay, it was destroyed by the French in 1689. German industrialist and politician Hugo Stinnes purchased the castle in the 19th century and rebuilt it as a summer residence – although today it is privately owned and not opened to the public.

Furstenberg Castle, located near the village of Rheindiebach, was built in 1219 by the Archbishop of Cologne to protect his property and collect tolls on boats that traveled the Rhine. Attacked by the Spain and Sweden in the early 17th century, it was destroyed by the French in the late 1600s. It is privately owned and not opened to the public.  

The village of Lorchhausen, which dates to the early 13th century, is a typical wine-growing community, with many vineyards lining the banks of the Rhine and a central church. 

At about this point, Debra said, “Seen one castle, seen them all. I’m heading inside where it is warm.” I certainly didn’t blame her for doing so. About the same time as Debra left, a steward came by with cups of hot chocolate…laced with a wee bit of brandy. Ahhh…the right drink to keep me warm!

Originally owned by the Diocese of Cologne, the 12th century Stahleck Castle changed hands four times from 1135 to 1214. Its name means “impregnable castle on a crag.” Perhaps…but it was destroyed by the French in 1689. Located near the town of Bacharach (photo below), Stahleck Castle was rebuilt during the early to mid-20th century and is now a youth hostel.

The early 13th century Gutenfels Castle is located on a hillside above terraced vineyards near the town of Kaub (photo below). In concert with the Pfalzgrafenstein Castle, it created an impenetrable toll zone for the Holy Roman Emperor until 1867, when it was purchased by Prussia. Gutenfels means “solid rock,” a reflection of the style in which this castle was constructed. It was rebuilt in the late 1800s and is now used as a hotel.

Schonburg Castle (“schon” means beautiful) was built in the 12th century above the medieval town of Oberwesel, which was ruled by the Dukes of Schonburg. It was destroyed by the (yes!) French in 1689, and then rebuilt in 1885. The castle was repurposed as a hotel in the mid-20th century. Room rates? A mere pittance at 350 euros per night.

This is the Church of Our Lady, built in the first half of the 14th century. The outside was a plastered, red-painted stone, which is why it is also known as the Red Church. 

Katz Castle, which overlooks the town of St. Goarshausen (panoramic photo below), was built in the 14th century by Count Wilheim II of Katzenenbogen (a mouthful, I know!). It was destroyed and rebuilt several times, and most recently, reconstructed to the original design and opened as a hotel.

The very personable Captain Helmut Schiller made the rounds as the helmsman navigated the Mani. Clearly, the good captain was accustomed to this weather, as he appeared quite comfortable in his Viking sport coat, while I wore a down jacket over a sweater and shirt!

The 12th century Sterrenberg Castle (left) and 13th century Liebenstein Castle (right) were built adjacent to one another high above the Rhine near Kamp-Bornhofen, home to Bornhofen Pilgrimage Monastery. Two siblings called the castles “home” – Werner, who was the eldest, lived in Sterrenberg and Konrad, his younger brother, lived in Liebenstein. Because the castles were separated by a stone wall, they are sometimes called the “Hostile Brothers.” Why?  A family feud over inheritance. Or was the feud over the hand of a fair maiden? Truth be told, these are myths. Liebenstein was built as a protective shield for Sterrenberg. Both castles are opened to the public, each with a restaurant and Liebenstein with a hotel.  

Boppard is located along a horseshoe bend in the river. The two towers are part of the Church of St. Severus, which was built in the 12th-13th centuries. How I wished we had docked so that I could walk along the riverfront promenade! 

Marksburg Castle was built in the 13th century as a fortress above the town of Braubach. Of the castles we saw today, it was one of two that were never destroyed (the other is Maus Castle) and the only castle that did not fall into disrepair, although it did undergo extensive restoration work in the 1900s. Debra and I took a guided tour of Marksburg Castle in the afternoon...but this will be the subject of a future story.

As we passed Marksburg Castle, we crossed paths with the Viking Alruna. It was sailing downriver from Amsterdam (where our cruise ended) to Basel (where our cruise began). 

Last but not least was Stolzenfels Castle, which is located just south of Koblenz. The original castle on this site, built in the 13th century as a fortification, was destroyed (you guessed it!) by the French in 1689 during the Nine Years’ War. This castle is relatively new – it was built in the early 19th century as a palace for the Prussian Crown Prince Frederick William. Stolzenfels Castle is open to the public. 

A trip through the Rhine Gorge is often described as “like entering a fairy tale.” Maybe so, but the word I thought of, as I watched the castle goes by, was “magical,” as the castles, villages, and countryside conjured up the image, in my mind’s eye, of medieval fiefdoms, lords and kings, and armies laying siege against one another. This tour was everything I had hoped for, and more! 

​Debra and me after we disembarked the Viking Mani in Koblenz to start our tour of Marksburg Castle.