In January and February 2020, Debra and I cruised the Hawaiian Islands on the Star Princess. We sailed round trip from Los Angeles, with island port stops on The Big Island, Oahu, Kauai, and Maui. The final stop on our 15-day cruise was Ensenada, Mexico. Click HERE to read a short introduction about this memorable cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day on The Big Island, the first port of call on our cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day on The Big Island, the first port of call on our cruise.
Hilo, The Big Island (February 2, 2020) – The Star Princess set sail from Los Angeles early evening on January 28 and covered more than 2,100 nautical miles over four and a half days. The weather was nice – it got warmer each day, as we headed southwest towards the Hawaiian Islands, and the ocean was relatively calm. Debra and I did what most cruise passengers do on sea days – we ate, played games, ate more, attended enrichment presentations, saw shows and listened to music, ate some more (!), and read. The entertainment was outstanding – comedian Mike Wilson, musicians "Tiki" Dave Shelly and Duncan Tuck, and the Star Princess singers and dancers. Oh…and perhaps the best showman we have seen on our many cruises – pianist and singer AJ Clarke. Yes, it was a carefree and relaxing start to our 15-day holiday!
Mike Wilson
Duncan Tuck
|
|
Our first port of call was Hilo (pop. 43,000), located on the east coast of The Big Island. This island is called The Big Island because, well, it’s the largest of the Hawaiian Islands – over 4,000 square miles. In fact, it’s bigger than all the other islands combined! It’s also the youngest island – a mere 300,000 years old. And unlike its sister-islands to the west (Maui, Oahu and Kauai), The Big Island is still growing as new lava flows into the sea from its four active volcanoes (three above land, one under water). Polynesian voyagers were the first people to inhabit the Hawaiian Islands (around 700 AD), and The Big Island was most likely the first island they lived on.
Our ship docked at 9 a.m. The sky was overcast, and rain was in the forecast. No surprise, as Hilo is one of the wettest cities in the world, with an average annual rainfall of more than 120 inches. But we had umbrellas and rain jackets, so we were good to go!
I know what many of you are thinking: “February 2nd. That was Super Bowl Sunday, right?” Yes, it was. And your next thought is, “You watched the game, right?” Uhhh…no, we didn’t. Kick off was early afternoon local time, but we weren’t going to let a “mere” football game stand in our way of sightseeing! Besides, none of us were 49ers or Chiefs fans.
I disembarked soon after Captain Christopher Lye gave the signal that it was ok to go ashore. I hopped on a shuttle bus for the short ride to Hilo’s airport, where I picked up our ride for the day – a Buick Enclave – and then headed back to the port to pick up Debra.
I disembarked soon after Captain Christopher Lye gave the signal that it was ok to go ashore. I hopped on a shuttle bus for the short ride to Hilo’s airport, where I picked up our ride for the day – a Buick Enclave – and then headed back to the port to pick up Debra.
Pana’ewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens
When I researched “things to do and see” on each island we would visit, I looked for points of interest that would be new for us. None of us had been to the Pana’ewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens, which first opened in 1968 on a smaller, nearby site. This is the only zoo in the United States located within a rainforest.
When I researched “things to do and see” on each island we would visit, I looked for points of interest that would be new for us. None of us had been to the Pana’ewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens, which first opened in 1968 on a smaller, nearby site. This is the only zoo in the United States located within a rainforest.
Hilo is blessed with a pleasant tropical forest climate year-round, with temperatures ranging from the low 60s to high 80s. This day, the temperature was in the low 70s, smack in the middle of this range – perfect for taking a leisurely stroll through this small 12-acre zoo (in a light drizzle...but, oh well!).
The zoo, designed to blend with the surrounding terrain and flora, houses more than 80 species of rainforest and other animals. To co-opt a famous quote from The Wizard of Oz, “Monkeys, Tigers, and Macaws. Oh my!” And there were almost as many species of plants, including orchids (remember – this is the Orchid Isle), bamboos, palms, and water lilies.
|
|
|
|
From the entrance, we followed a well-marked paved path past a water garden, where we saw a graceful black swan paddle among the water lilies. The path continued through a forest of plants – hibiscus, taro, bromeliads, thimbleberry, coffee trees, and more – to an enclosure for donkeys and emus. These animals were standing still with eyes pointed to our left, and for good reason, as their neighbors were Sriracha and Tzatziki, two Bengal tigers. I can’t say with certainty, but I believed those tigers were ready to call in a take-out order for lunch!
|
|
Sriracha, an orange female tiger, and Tzatziki, a white male tiger, were gifted to the zoo in 2016 by Great Cats World Park (Oregon). Unlike many zoos we’ve visited, the enclosure for these tigers was huge, with a lot of natural vegetation to hide in (better for stalking prey!) and a pond to swim in. It was a treat to watch these magnificent animals as they roamed their habitat. The tigers didn’t roar (or at least, not while we were at the zoo), but we did hear noises from other animals, which prompted us to move forward along the path.
We came to a grouping of enclosures where we saw a mostly-brown iguana lounging on the branch of a small tree, a crowned crane strutting “its stuff,” a very colorful golden pheasant on a stroll of its own, and playful lemurs. From time to time the lemurs would sit on a perch and gaze at us, and I wondered if they saw the world in reverse – that they were the visitors, outside looking in, while we were the animals on display?!
|
|
We continued to follow the path past gardens of strawberry guava, allspice shrubs, and fern trees to another set of enclosures. There we saw many species of monkeys – marmoset, spider, capuchin, and others. Nearby were exhibits with a two-toed sloth and snapping turtles.
We soon heard familiar sounds – the squawks, whistles, and calls of macaws, cockatoos, ring-necked parrots and other exotic birds. Debra and I LOVE parrots, owing largely to Monty, a green-cheeked conure who was a member of our family for many years. We spent a lot of time looking at and talking to these birds…and occasionally one answered us with a learned word or two.
|
|
|
|
Most of these birds were in flying cages, but other birds, including peafowls and ducks, roamed freely on the grounds. And did I mention the most ubiquitous bird on The Big Island? If you’ve been to The Big Island (or the other islands, for that matter), you know what I’m talking about. But if haven’t been to Hawaii, the answer is feral chickens and roosters. THEY ARE EVERYWHERE!!
According to Island lore, hurricanes Iwa (1982) and Iniki (1992) destroyed domestic hutches and the chickens “flew the coop.” Looking for some action, they headed to the forests, where they mated with wild red fowl to produce feral chickens. These chickens have no natural predator, so the population grows and grows and grows. Where others saw a nuisance, I saw a business opportunity – an unlimited supply with which to launch a new chain of restaurants. I wondered, though, whether these feral chickens were “finger lickin’ good!”
We passed coffee and breadfruit trees, sugar cane, and other tropical plants as we made our way to the entrance, which doubles as the exit. By the way, there was no entry fee; the caretakers of the zoo do, however, suggest a modest donation or purchase at the zoo’s gift shop to help support the zoo.
At our leisurely pace, we saw all exhibits – flora and fauna – in about 90 minutes. We agreed that the Pana’ewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens was a real gem, and a great way to kick-start our day of sightseeing on The Big Island!
We passed coffee and breadfruit trees, sugar cane, and other tropical plants as we made our way to the entrance, which doubles as the exit. By the way, there was no entry fee; the caretakers of the zoo do, however, suggest a modest donation or purchase at the zoo’s gift shop to help support the zoo.
At our leisurely pace, we saw all exhibits – flora and fauna – in about 90 minutes. We agreed that the Pana’ewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens was a real gem, and a great way to kick-start our day of sightseeing on The Big Island!
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
It was late morning, and we were hungry...so it was a good thing that lunch was next on our itinerary. But it wasn’t lunch at just any restaurant, mind you. No, we headed to the restaurant at the historic Volcano House Hotel (dates to the mid-1800s), located within Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I picked this restaurant because it overlooked the Halema’uma’u pit crater within the larger Kilauea Caldera. We last visited this park about seven years ago, when we stopped at the observatory and museum, walked the rim of the crater, and went inside a lava tube.
It was late morning, and we were hungry...so it was a good thing that lunch was next on our itinerary. But it wasn’t lunch at just any restaurant, mind you. No, we headed to the restaurant at the historic Volcano House Hotel (dates to the mid-1800s), located within Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I picked this restaurant because it overlooked the Halema’uma’u pit crater within the larger Kilauea Caldera. We last visited this park about seven years ago, when we stopped at the observatory and museum, walked the rim of the crater, and went inside a lava tube.
|
|
Kilauea, a still-active shield volcano (dome shaped), is estimated to be between 300,000 and 600,000 thousand years old, making it the youngest volcano on The Big Island. It was submerged for most of its life, but it broke through the surface of the ocean about 100,000 years ago as ongoing eruptions added layer upon layer of lava. In the Hawaiian language, “Kilauea” means “much spreading,” testament to the frequent lava flows. This volcano has erupted 61 times since 1823; the most recent eruption was in 2018.
We rolled up to the park gate around noon. The entrance fee was $30 (per car, not per person), but I had a Senior Pass to the National Parks, so we got in for free. As I handed my card to the young lady in the ticket booth, I mentioned that this was the first time I was using my pass. She said, without hesitation, “You can tell people that you did it first here.” She quickly realized her faux pas and blushed! (Hopefully I don’t have to explain this to you.)
We parked outside the hotel and walked through the lobby to an observation deck that overlooked the crater. The view was incredible! I snapped a couple of photos before we headed inside for lunch.
We rolled up to the park gate around noon. The entrance fee was $30 (per car, not per person), but I had a Senior Pass to the National Parks, so we got in for free. As I handed my card to the young lady in the ticket booth, I mentioned that this was the first time I was using my pass. She said, without hesitation, “You can tell people that you did it first here.” She quickly realized her faux pas and blushed! (Hopefully I don’t have to explain this to you.)
We parked outside the hotel and walked through the lobby to an observation deck that overlooked the crater. The view was incredible! I snapped a couple of photos before we headed inside for lunch.
|
|
We also had a great view of the crater from our table, as the back of the restaurant, which faced the crater, was a wall of large windows. Snap, snap…two more photos.
|
|
The crater is 4,000 feet above sea level. The temperature was about 60 when we arrived, more than 10 degrees cooler than it was at the zoo (near sea level). No problem, though, as we were dressed in layers. However, that “pleasant tropical climate” I mentioned earlier? Well, apparently it wasn’t always “pleasant,” and at this elevation, the weather can quickly change. Fifteen minutes after we sat down for lunch, we looked out the window and saw…NOTHING. Well, not exactly true. What we saw was a dense fog that obliterated our view of the crater! It was a good thing I took photos when we arrived, otherwise this was all that I would have been able to show to you.
|
We nosed around the gift shop after lunch – I bought a souvenir coffee mug – and then headed to the car. Guess what? It was raining and the temperature had fallen another few degrees. Well, that put a crimp in our plans at the park. A walk along the crater rim trail? Out of the question. A visit to nearby Kiuka Puaulu Bird Park? Forget about it! Descend 400 feet through a rainforest into the volcanic crater and hike across the hardened lava lake? LOL – we hadn’t planned to do this anyway! We did, however, take a short ride along Crater Rim Drive and stopped at an observation point. Even though Kilauea was still shrouded in fog, I walked a half mile in the drizzle to have a closer look at a few of the steam vents (while Debra stayed dry in the car!). I was soon back in the car, and we were on our way to our third and final stop.
|
|
Lava Tree State Monument
This park was another first for us. Although it was a bit of a drive to reach, it was well worth our time. After all, we don’t get to see lava trees back home in Arizona!
“So, what is a lava tree?” you might ask. Simply stated, it’s a tree trunk that was coated by lava. This occurred in 1790, when molten lava up to 11 feet deep flowed through this area. The lava coated the trunks of the ohi’a lehua, a flowering evergreen in the myrtle family. The heat of the lava burned the trees to ash, but the trees cooled the lava sufficiently to leave a mold of the tree above ground. The tree trunks were frozen in time, and the effect (IMHO) was eerie.
This park was another first for us. Although it was a bit of a drive to reach, it was well worth our time. After all, we don’t get to see lava trees back home in Arizona!
“So, what is a lava tree?” you might ask. Simply stated, it’s a tree trunk that was coated by lava. This occurred in 1790, when molten lava up to 11 feet deep flowed through this area. The lava coated the trunks of the ohi’a lehua, a flowering evergreen in the myrtle family. The heat of the lava burned the trees to ash, but the trees cooled the lava sufficiently to leave a mold of the tree above ground. The tree trunks were frozen in time, and the effect (IMHO) was eerie.
|
|
|
|
There is a 0.7-mile loop trail through this 17-acre park. With our eye on the clock (we had to return the rental car by 4 and be back on the Star Princess by 5), we walked halfway out on the loop (and back). Along the way we saw ten or so lava trees – some short, some tall. By the way, there was no charge to enter the park.
A Trip Down Memory Lane
There were many points of interest we could have reached from Hilo this day. With only one day in port, though, we had to pick a direction to go, and that direction was south and east of the city. Debra and I went in other directions on other trips to The Big Island. Then, we saw Rainbow Falls, Akaka Falls, Lili’uokalana Park and Gardens, and Punalu’u Black Sand Beach. We also visited two popular attractions (our personal favorites) that I would like to share with you – just in case you’re using my travel story to help guide your future trip to The Big Island.
The Tropical Botanical Garden, which opened to the public in 1984, is located on Onomea Bay along the east coast of the island. The ride there from Hilo, north on the Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive, was breathtaking – a tunnel of green trees that wind in and out along the rugged coastline, with an occasional glimpse of the Pacific Ocean.
A Trip Down Memory Lane
There were many points of interest we could have reached from Hilo this day. With only one day in port, though, we had to pick a direction to go, and that direction was south and east of the city. Debra and I went in other directions on other trips to The Big Island. Then, we saw Rainbow Falls, Akaka Falls, Lili’uokalana Park and Gardens, and Punalu’u Black Sand Beach. We also visited two popular attractions (our personal favorites) that I would like to share with you – just in case you’re using my travel story to help guide your future trip to The Big Island.
The Tropical Botanical Garden, which opened to the public in 1984, is located on Onomea Bay along the east coast of the island. The ride there from Hilo, north on the Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive, was breathtaking – a tunnel of green trees that wind in and out along the rugged coastline, with an occasional glimpse of the Pacific Ocean.
|
|
At the Botanical Garden, which we reached near the halfway point of the Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive, we saw a dense forest of tropical plants – more than 2,000 species – with streams, waterfalls, and a view of the island’s Pacific coast. With a trail map in hand, we went on a self-guided tour after paying the entrance fee.
We followed the main trail, which as I recall had different names at different points along the trail, from the Visitor Center to Turtle Point and Twin Rocks Vista, two lookout points on the coast, and back again. African tulips, banyans, birds of paradise, coffee, ginger, mango, orchids, ironwood, palms – the list of shrubs and trees goes on and on. We wandered through the gardens in about two hours. In a word, the Tropical Botanical Gardens were spectacular!
We followed the main trail, which as I recall had different names at different points along the trail, from the Visitor Center to Turtle Point and Twin Rocks Vista, two lookout points on the coast, and back again. African tulips, banyans, birds of paradise, coffee, ginger, mango, orchids, ironwood, palms – the list of shrubs and trees goes on and on. We wandered through the gardens in about two hours. In a word, the Tropical Botanical Gardens were spectacular!
Waipi’o Valley Lookout is located on the Hamakua Coast on the northeastern side of The Big Island. Our drive to the lookout was memorable – we traveled alongside sea cliffs and through rainforests and green valleys. We passed Akaka Falls State Park, home to the 442-foot Akaka Falls, as we made our way to Waipi’o Valley. By the way, this valley was the boyhood home of Kamehameha I, the founder and first ruler of the Kingdom of Hawaii (1782 – 1819).
We had a short walk along a paved path from the parking lot to the lookout, where we enjoyed a grand view of the valley and coastline. Talk about a Kodak moment!
Here’s a bit of movie trivia for you: In the movie Waterworld, the survivors find the summit of Mount Everest – except it’s not the summit of Mount Everest, but rather Waipi’o Valley. The waterfalls seen in the final scenes of the movie are the Kaluahine Falls. That’s Hollywood!
Back Aboard the Star Princess
We made it – we returned the rental car at 4, rode the shuttle bus from the airport to the ship, and were back on board the Star Princess before the 5 pm sail away!
We had a wonderful evening, starting with the second (and last) performance by AJ Clarke. His music, singing, playing, staging – everything about his show – was top-notch. We loved it when he sang all the voice types in Sherry by Four Seasons – from the falsetto voice of Frankie Vallie (“Sherry, Sherry baby…”) to the baritone voice of Tommy DeVito (“Come out”).
After the show, we had dinner in the Capri dining room. And then, Debra headed to Effy’s, where she met jewelry designer Giovanni (hey, when you’re famous you only need one name!), while I went to Facets to do what a watch guy does – “talk watches” with watch specialists Artem and Roman.
We had a great day on The Big Island – new experiences, new memories. Tomorrow we will be on Oahu, where we have another full day of sightseeing ahead of us. Until then, Aloha!
Back Aboard the Star Princess
We made it – we returned the rental car at 4, rode the shuttle bus from the airport to the ship, and were back on board the Star Princess before the 5 pm sail away!
We had a wonderful evening, starting with the second (and last) performance by AJ Clarke. His music, singing, playing, staging – everything about his show – was top-notch. We loved it when he sang all the voice types in Sherry by Four Seasons – from the falsetto voice of Frankie Vallie (“Sherry, Sherry baby…”) to the baritone voice of Tommy DeVito (“Come out”).
After the show, we had dinner in the Capri dining room. And then, Debra headed to Effy’s, where she met jewelry designer Giovanni (hey, when you’re famous you only need one name!), while I went to Facets to do what a watch guy does – “talk watches” with watch specialists Artem and Roman.
We had a great day on The Big Island – new experiences, new memories. Tomorrow we will be on Oahu, where we have another full day of sightseeing ahead of us. Until then, Aloha!