In June 2015, Debra and I spent 10 days in southwestern Colorado. Our “base camp” was a condo on the outskirts of Durango, a perfect location from which to explore the town and take day trips throughout the region. Click HERE to read a short introduction about our wondrous trip.
This story, which is part of a series, is about the day we visited Mesa Verde National Park.
This story, which is part of a series, is about the day we visited Mesa Verde National Park.
The Mesa Verde landscape is a remarkably well-preserved prehistoric
settlement landscape of Ancestral Puebloan culture, which lasted for
almost nine hundred years from c. 450 to 1300. This rich landscape
provides a remarkable archaeological laboratory for enhancing our
understanding of the Ancestral Puebloan people.
~ UNESCO
settlement landscape of Ancestral Puebloan culture, which lasted for
almost nine hundred years from c. 450 to 1300. This rich landscape
provides a remarkable archaeological laboratory for enhancing our
understanding of the Ancestral Puebloan people.
~ UNESCO
Durango, Colorado (June 28, 2015) Debra and I had a fabulous time last evening. We wandered in and out of several shops in downtown Durango – our favorite was Karyn Gabaldon Fine Arts (left hand photo below), where I bought a sterling silver ring with a rough-cut turquoise stone – and had a relaxing dinner on the patio of Ken & Sue’s American Bistro.
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During the night, the cool mountain air drifted through the screened windows of our bedroom. What a joy! When we awoke, refreshed by a great night’s sleep, we found that the weather was picture perfect for today’s outdoor adventure – mid 70s (heading to the low 80s), blue sky, slight breeze. Ahhhhh!
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First things first, though – a hearty breakfast on the back deck of our condo, where Debra and I watched a Durango & Silverton steam engine pull a train of passenger cars on its morning run north.
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True Confession: I am smitten with ancient ruins.
I don’t know when this love affair started. It could have been in 1974, when Debra and I visited Montezuma Castle National Monument…or perhaps another time. Fortunately, Debra “humors” me in my love of old things and, while not her first choice for sightseeing, she is a good sport about including at least one day of ancient ruins as we plan our travel itineraries. So, I had looked forward to THIS day since we arrived in Colorado a week ago. Today, you see, we visited Mesa Verde National Park, which is the largest archaeological preserve in the United States. Which is to say, LOTS OF ANCIENT RUINS!
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Mesa Verde (Spanish for “green table”) is located 35 miles west of Durango on US-160, past the towns of Hesperus and Mancos. The ride was scenic, and as we passed Mancos, I spotted this photo op in my rearview mirror – the snow-capped Rockies. Stop. Get out. Turn around. Snap. Back in the car. On our way.
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Just past the Mesa Verde RV Resort, we turned left onto the aptly named Mesa Top Ruins Road and stopped at the Visitor and Research Center. There we saw interesting and informative exhibits about the culture and life of the Ancestral Puebloans (once called the Anasazi), who occupied Mesa Verde from the 7th through 13th centuries. Foremost, they were farmers, and their primary crop was corn. They were also artisans who wove elegant baskets and made beautiful pottery. In the 8th century, the Puebloans grouped their adobe dwellings in pueblos (villages) atop the mesa. By the late 12th century, they started building stone pueblos within the sheltered cliffs of the canyons – under outcroppings and within caves. The Puebloans abandoned Mesa Verde 75 to 100 years later. Why? No one really knows.
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The ruins at Mesa Verde remained largely hidden until 1889, when the Wetherill brothers, who were local ranchers, stumbled upon them while searching for stray cattle. Richard Wetherill was an amateur archaeologist, and under his direction the brothers gathered artifacts to sell to museums. They also petitioned the U.S. government to make Mesa Verde a national park. The government said, “No.”
Fast forward 17 years to 1906, when then-president Theodore Roosevelt enabled the American Antiquities Act to establish national forests, bird and game preserves, national monuments, and national parks. Mesa Verde was included with the inaugural sites. In 1978, UNESCO designated the park a World Heritage Site.
Fast forward 17 years to 1906, when then-president Theodore Roosevelt enabled the American Antiquities Act to establish national forests, bird and game preserves, national monuments, and national parks. Mesa Verde was included with the inaugural sites. In 1978, UNESCO designated the park a World Heritage Site.
Since the Wetherill’s discovery, archaeologists have located more than 4,800 sites in Mesa Verde, including mesa-top pithouses, multistoried dwellings, and cliffside villages. A handful of sites are open to the public, while others may be viewed from the side of the road. It was time for Debra and me (well, mostly me!) to see a couple of these sites.
We paid the park fee at the entrance station just past the Visitor Center and continued about 20 miles on Mesa Top Ruins Road to the parking lot for the Chapin Mesa Archeological Museum. The drive was scenic, and I stopped several times along the way to enjoy (and take photos of) the sweeping vistas.
We paid the park fee at the entrance station just past the Visitor Center and continued about 20 miles on Mesa Top Ruins Road to the parking lot for the Chapin Mesa Archeological Museum. The drive was scenic, and I stopped several times along the way to enjoy (and take photos of) the sweeping vistas.
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The museum was built of Cliff House Sandstone in the 1920s – the same type of rock that the Ancestral Puebloans used to construct their dwellings. Inside were displays depicting the life of the Puebloans, as well as exhibits of prehistoric artifacts. From a covered terrace behind the museum we had this amazing view of Spruce Tree House, which was built in the 13th century.
Spruce Tree House is the third largest cliff dwelling in Mesa Verde, and (I believe) most accessible. “Why was it named Spruce Tree House?” you ask. Because the Wetherill brothers found a large Douglas Fir (then called a “Spruce”) growing in front of the pueblo. The brothers were practical, not clever!
The Puebloans built this dwelling in the natural sandstone alcove below the outcropping of the cliff. The alcove measures more than 200 feet across and nearly 90 feet deep. With 114 living and storage rooms and 8 kivas (ceremonial chambers), it was thought to house 8 families (1 family per kiva), or 60 – 80 people. The alcove protected this dwelling from the elements – more than 800 years after it was completed, 90% of the present materials were original!
The Puebloans built this dwelling in the natural sandstone alcove below the outcropping of the cliff. The alcove measures more than 200 feet across and nearly 90 feet deep. With 114 living and storage rooms and 8 kivas (ceremonial chambers), it was thought to house 8 families (1 family per kiva), or 60 – 80 people. The alcove protected this dwelling from the elements – more than 800 years after it was completed, 90% of the present materials were original!
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There was a half-mile loop trail from the museum to Spruce Tree House, with a 100-foot elevation drop. Debra said the view from the terrace satisfied her interest, so she took a seat as I set off to explore the cliff dwelling.
As I made my way down the paved trail, I passed native trees – pinon pine, juniper, and Gambel oak, to name a few – that Ancestral Pueblos harvested for firewood, building materials, clothing, and many other uses. While I didn’t spot these as I walked along the trail, I read that were still-visible hand-and-toe-hold trails that the Puebloans used to travel up and down the steep cliffs. What…no escalator?! |
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Soon I stood at the edge of the alcove, a collection of one-, two-, and three-story dwellings that comprised the pueblo arrayed in front of me. I spent several minutes admiring the primitive craftsmanship before I wandered around and through these structures.
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Soon I stood at the edge of the alcove, a collection of one-, two-, and three-story dwellings that comprised the pueblo arrayed in front of me. I spent several minutes admiring the primitive craftsmanship before I wandered around and through these structures.
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One kiva was open to the public, so I climbed down the ladder to have a look inside. It was mind-boggling to think that I stood where Ancestral Puebloans gathered 800 years ago!
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Spruce Tree House was spectacular, on par, IMHO, with the ruins we’ve seen in Rome, Glendalough, Ephesus, Pompeii, and other places we have visited. I was thrilled to have had this “up close and personal” encounter with an ancient civilization!
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I trod along the trail as it climbed to the museum. About halfway up I came to a clearing, where I looked up and spotted Debra standing at the edge of the terrace. She seemed to greet me with open arms – happy to see me, I assumed (or perhaps relieved that I had made it back!).
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From the museum, we drove a couple miles south to the Mesa Loop Top Road, a 6-mile paved drive that passed a handful of surface sites and cliff dwelling overlooks. We stopped at several observation points to have a quick look-see, including Sun Point where we gazed upon Fire Temple. Built in 13th century, Fire Temple (and nearby Sun Temple) was likely “linked with sun-fire-serpent worship in the service of fertility and agricultural productivity…”. The large central pit may have been the site of an “eternal flame.”
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Yes, I was impressed with Mesa Verde National Park – the history was fascinating, the views were spectacular, and the ruins were awesome. It WAS a worthy day trip!
After a couple of hours of R&R at the condo (and a wardrobe change into evening-appropriate clothes), Debra and I headed to Diamond Belle Saloon for dinner. Located in the historic Strater Hotel, we felt as if we had stepped back in time - the Diamond Belle looked like an authentic Old West saloon, with swinging shutter doors, a rich wood bar to “belly up to,” a parlor man playing the piano, costumed dance hall girls and bartenders, and even an outlaw and sheriff. The food was good, but the atmosphere and entertainment were great.
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Today was a wonderful day from start to finish!