In September 2019, Debra and I cruised the British Isles for 14 days on the Pacific Princess. We sailed round trip from Dover, with 11 port stops in England, the Republic of Ireland, Wales, Northern Ireland, and Scotland. Click HERE to read a short introduction about our awesome cruise.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Edinburgh, the tenth port of call.
This story, which is part of a series, is about our day in Edinburgh, the tenth port of call.
Edinburgh, Scotland (September 20, 2019) Today was magical – the weather was beautiful, our tour guide was great, and we saw stunning sights and scenery as we traveled from North Queensferry in the Central Lowlands to Loch Lomond in the Highlands. Without a doubt, this was the best day of our cruise!
Last evening, the Pacific Princess set sail from Kirkwall (Orkney Islands) and cruised south along the eastern coast of Scotland. The North Sea must have been smooth, as Debra and I had a great night sleep.
We docked at the village of North Queensferry in Fife early this morning. The village is on the north shore of the Firth of Forth (I LOVE this name!), an estuary of the River Forth that flows to the North Sea. Its port is one of three that serve Edinburgh (pronounced “Edinbra”), the capital of Scotland.
The sun rose in the eastern sky as I stood on the top deck to watch the Pacific Princess navigate the last few miles to port. We had just sailed under the Queensferry Crossing Bridge, the last of three bridges that cross the Firth of Forth. Opened in 2017, it is the longest three-tower, cable-stayed bridge in the world. Past this bridge, looking east, were the Forth Road Bridge, the longest bridge outside the United States when it opened in 1964, and the Forth Rail Bridge, which was built in 1890. The horizon was painted yellow and orange by the rising sun. This scene was picture-perfect!
Last evening, the Pacific Princess set sail from Kirkwall (Orkney Islands) and cruised south along the eastern coast of Scotland. The North Sea must have been smooth, as Debra and I had a great night sleep.
We docked at the village of North Queensferry in Fife early this morning. The village is on the north shore of the Firth of Forth (I LOVE this name!), an estuary of the River Forth that flows to the North Sea. Its port is one of three that serve Edinburgh (pronounced “Edinbra”), the capital of Scotland.
The sun rose in the eastern sky as I stood on the top deck to watch the Pacific Princess navigate the last few miles to port. We had just sailed under the Queensferry Crossing Bridge, the last of three bridges that cross the Firth of Forth. Opened in 2017, it is the longest three-tower, cable-stayed bridge in the world. Past this bridge, looking east, were the Forth Road Bridge, the longest bridge outside the United States when it opened in 1964, and the Forth Rail Bridge, which was built in 1890. The horizon was painted yellow and orange by the rising sun. This scene was picture-perfect!
Scotland has mystical beauty, ancient sites,
and thousands of years of ancestral heritage.
Come and share my passion for my homeland and
Clan Donald on a journey you will never forget!
~ James MacDonald
and thousands of years of ancestral heritage.
Come and share my passion for my homeland and
Clan Donald on a journey you will never forget!
~ James MacDonald
With only one day in port, we had to choose between seeing a “treasure trove of cultural and architectural delights” in the city or “postcard-perfect scenery and attractions” in the countryside. Given a choice, Debra will always opt opted for a countryside excursion. Decision made! I booked a private tour through Luxury Tours Scotland (https://www.luxurytourscotland.com/), which is owned and operated by James MacDonald. James created a “bespoke” tour for us – a scenic drive north of Edinburgh through the Lowlands to the Highlands, with stops at a former royal burgh (a Scottish term for borough), 15th century castle, and iconic lake.
Clan Donald (also known as Clan MacDonald), by the way, is the oldest and one of the largest clans in Scotland. I learned that this clan had more than 40 tartans - patterned cloth of crisscrossed bands in multiple colors. James wore a black-tartan kilt and vest. He looked quite “smart!”
Clan Donald (also known as Clan MacDonald), by the way, is the oldest and one of the largest clans in Scotland. I learned that this clan had more than 40 tartans - patterned cloth of crisscrossed bands in multiple colors. James wore a black-tartan kilt and vest. He looked quite “smart!”
A 17th Century Time Capsule
We drove through the countryside of the Lowlands region on our way to Culross (pronounced “Koo-rus”), a small village in the county of Fife. The scenery was beautiful – green fields, rolling hills, and flocks of sheep (lots of sheep!).
We drove through the countryside of the Lowlands region on our way to Culross (pronounced “Koo-rus”), a small village in the county of Fife. The scenery was beautiful – green fields, rolling hills, and flocks of sheep (lots of sheep!).
Culross (pop. 400), located near the western end of the Firth of Forth, is Scotland’s “most complete example of a burgh of the 17th and 18th century.” It was an important port for coal, once the major export for this region of Scotland. In the mid-1800s, there were more than 50 coal mines in Fife. The last mine closed in 1988.
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The village was picturesque – narrow cobbled streets, white harled stone (a rough texture) houses with red-tiled roofs, and an ochre-colored palace. Perhaps this was why Culross served as the fictional village of “Cranesmuir” in the popular television series Outlander, in which Claire, a former WW2 nurse, was transported back to mid-18th century Scotland.
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We started our tour with a couple of photo ops. The first was in front of the remnants of the Tron (early 1600s), which was the official beam for weighing all produce. The second was on the stairs of the Town House (1626), which served as a courthouse and prison. By the way, that’s James (and not me!) wearing the kilt. In the Town House, Debra and I walked into the first-floor gift shop, where we admired the original hand-painted geometric designs in the open-beam ceiling.
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The ochre-colored building (in the background of the photo top left) is the 16th century Culross Palace, built by merchant George Bruce, the Laird (“Lord”) of Carnock and direct lineal descendent of Scottish King Robert the Bruce. The exterior of the palace, several rooms, and its terraced gardens were featured in episodes of Outlander. One scene was filmed on the entry stairs that Debra and James are standing on.
We paid a modest entry fee (7.50 pounds for seniors) to take a self-guided tour of the palace. There were storyboard cards and period furniture and furnishings in each room, and in one room there was period clothing that we tried on. The pine-paneled walls and painted ceilings were well-preserved. There was a strict “no-photos” policy, which I respected...but I found a few photos from the internet to share with you.
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We walked from the palace to the terraced garden, where we found herbs, vegetables, fruit trees, and flowers. In the first season of Outlander, this was the “garden at Castle Leoch”, where Claire would go to gather her medicinal herbs. From the uppermost terrace, Debra and I had a wonderful view of the village and the Forth of Firth.
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In “days of yore”, the mercat (“market”) cross was a place for villagers to gather to hear important public announcements and for prisoners to be punished. The mercat cross in Culross was where Geillis Duncan, a character in Outlander, was sentenced to burn for being a witch.
Truth be told, Debra and I watched only a few episodes of the first season of Outlander, so we were more interested in Culross as an enchanting medieval village (which it was) rather than as a filming location for the series.
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We drove to Culross Abbey, located on a steep hillside above the village. The abbey was founded as a Cistercian monastery in the 13th century by Malcom, Third Earl of Fife. The domestic buildings of the abbey fell into ruin following the Reformation of 1560, but the abbey church was well maintained. Inside the church was a large memorial to George Bruce (1550 – 1625) and his wife, and in front are eight kneeling statues of their children.
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Culross was a fascinating place, filled with centuries of Scottish history, and a great start to our magical day!
One of Scotland’s Greatest Castles
We crossed the River Forth near Kincardine and drove through scenic countryside to the city of Stirling (pop. 38,000), where the Lowlands meet the Highlands. Stirling is also home to Stirling Castle, one of the largest in Scotland.
The castle, first mentioned in the early 12th century, sits atop a volcanic outcrop with steep cliffs on three side – a strong defensive position for whoever held the castle, and a challenging siege for whoever didn’t. The castle changed hands several times during the War of Scottish Independence in the early 14th century.
We crossed the River Forth near Kincardine and drove through scenic countryside to the city of Stirling (pop. 38,000), where the Lowlands meet the Highlands. Stirling is also home to Stirling Castle, one of the largest in Scotland.
The castle, first mentioned in the early 12th century, sits atop a volcanic outcrop with steep cliffs on three side – a strong defensive position for whoever held the castle, and a challenging siege for whoever didn’t. The castle changed hands several times during the War of Scottish Independence in the early 14th century.
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James dropped us near the main entrance, where we saw this statue of Robert I. Popularly known as Robert the Bruce (Brus, or Bruce, was the family name), he was King of Scotland for 23 year until his death in 1329. Revered as a national hero, Robert the Bruce led Scotland during the First War of Independence against England.
We had one hour to tour the castle and castle grounds – not enough time to see it all but sufficient time to explore a few important features. The entrance fee, by the way, was 16 pounds per person, so if you visit Stirling Castle, be sure to make a day of it to get your money’s worth! |
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Past the main entrance we crossed a bridge and turned to our left, where we walked alongside the outer defenses (a wall) to reach a peaceful and beautiful garden on the south side of the castle (photo above and below). The garden was named for Queen Anne, who became the first sovereign of the Kingdom of Great Britain when England and Scotland united in 1707. The Queen’s lodgings and Prince’s tower (in the photo below) overlooked this royal garden.
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We backtracked from the garden to a sloping cobbled walkway that led us to the Forework, the original entrance to the castle that was built by James IV almost 500 years ago. In the late 17th century, the two towers on either side of the gate were lowered to accommodate platforms for cannons.
We were now within the inner walls of the castle. In front of us was the Great Hall, to our left the Royal Palace, and to our right the Great Kitchen and Grand Battery (photo below). |
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With limited time, we bypassed the Great Kitchen (seen one medieval oven, seen them all!) in favor of the Grand Battery, and we were glad we did. Built in 1690, the Grand Battery was lined with cannons. But better than seeing centuries-old artillery was the spectacular view of the verdant countryside as we stood along the perimeter wall.
We didn’t go into the Great Hall either. Completed in 1503 by James IV, the Great Hall (the painted building in the photo to the right) was used for great banquets, meetings of parliament, and as a barrack for soldiers.
The Royal Palace was completed by James V in the mid-16th century. To impress visitors with his wealth and authority, he had French stonemasons carve statues to adorn the exterior walls – the Devil, planetary Gods, himself in ordinary clothes, and more. The Royal Palace, which was the childhood home of Mary Queen of Scots, was refurbished to look as it did when completed. |
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Inside the palace we saw the King and Queen’s apartments – their bedchambers (separate rooms, thank you!), the King’s outer hall where “people of social standing” waited for a possible audience with his majesty, and the inner halls where visitors could meet the monarchs.
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Debra learned about early pocketbooks from Ian, a young court artisan who made purses from leather for members of the royal court. And from another period-clad docent, we learned that the unicorn was the national symbol of Scotland, which was why it adorned the royal emblems we saw throughout in the palace.
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Sixty minutes flew by too quickly. It was time to head to THE stop on our bespoke tour, which is to say the destination that Debra and I had anticipated the most: Loch Lomand.
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By Yon Bonnie Banks
We passed many small towns on our hour-long drive west from Stirling – Gargunnock, Arnprior, and Buchlyvie, to name a few. We entered Trossachs National Park near Drymen, and a short time later we arrived at the southern shore of Loch Lomond, the largest of the Scottish lochs (“lakes”). We were officially in the Highlands region of Scotland. |
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By yon bonnie banks and by yon bonnie braes
Where the sun shines bright on Loch Lomond
Where we two have passed so many blithesome days
On the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond
~ the Bonnie Banks o’ Loch Lomond
Where the sun shines bright on Loch Lomond
Where we two have passed so many blithesome days
On the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond
~ the Bonnie Banks o’ Loch Lomond
These are the opening lyrics of The Bonnie Banks o’ Loch Lomond, a traditional Scottish song first published in 1841. There were several theories about the origin of this song, but the one I liked best was that it referred to the “little people” - the faeries - who brought the soul of a Scot killed in battle back to Scotland to rest in peace.
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Later, as we walked along the shore of Loch Lomond, I saw a hole near the base of a tree. “Perhaps a faery hole,” I thought, and just then, I spotted what appeared to be a faery. Can you see it near the bottom of this photo – light brown with its wings sticking up over its wee head? Perhaps there WAS something to the lore of the faeries!
It was early afternoon and time for lunch. James recommended The Boat House, located next to a marina by the water’s edge. We invited him to join us, and were pleased that he did. There were too many bees buzzing outdoors, so we opted for indoor dining rather than the patio. The décor was decidely nautical, and bit of New England in style. |
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The Boat House had an extensive menu – seafood, chicken, pasta, pizza, and burgers – but it didn’t take long for us to choose: the Classic burger for Debra and James and haddock for me. Our meals were delicious, and as you can see in these photos, the portions were large.
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As we ate lunch, I asked James, who is married and has three sons, about the tatto on his forearm. “The writing is Gaellic,” he said. “The translation is ‘My family is my life’.” Now, that’s a nice tattoo!
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Trossachs National Park, which was officially opened in 2002 by Princess Anne, covers an area of more than 700 square miles. It is often called “Scotland in Miniature,” as it boasts a mix of braes (the slope of a hill), mountains, pastures, forests (oak, birch, alder, and pine), and, of course, a picturesque loch (“lake”).
Sir Walter Scott (1771 – 1832), a Scottish poet, historian, and playwright, visited the Trossachs in 1809, where he studied the terrain around Loch Lomond as he was writing his critically acclaimed narrative poem Lady of the Lake, which he published in 1810. I can’t say for certain, but this scenic view of Loch Lomond, which Debra and I soaked up this afternoon, may be what inspired Scott to refer to Loch Lomond as the “Queen of all Scottish Lakes.”
Loch Lomond, a long and narrow freshwater lake that covers 27 square miles, was carved by glaciers around 10,000 years ago. Its name translates to “lake beacon,” a reference to Ben Lomond (“Beacon Mountain”), which is located on the eastern shore of the lake about 20 miles north of where we were. In the photo above, the 3,200-foot Ben Lomond is the “wee” mountain in the center.
I’d always thought that Loch Ness held the only lake monster in Scotland. Not true, we learned, as there were reports of a lake monster in Loch Lomond – described as looking like a plesiosaur or large crocodilian. Debra and I spotted ripples in the water (in the photo below), which we were sure was the Loch Lomond Monster. But alas, the Monster did not surface for us today!
We drove north from The Boat House about 15 minutes and stopped at an observation point on the western edge of Loch Lomond. There we ventured onto the pebbled shore, where I “carved” Debra’s name in stone for all time. Well, the first three letters of her name, that is, and maybe just until the next wave washes the stones away!
Our inner child got the better of us (it almost always should, I think!) – we took turns skipping stones, something that Debra and I hadn’t done for many years. Debra’s throw skipped more times than mine, and James beat both of us. What fun!
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It was a beautiful day – 70 degrees, blue sky – for a walk, and that was what we did, along a country lane that ran alongside Loch Lomond. This was where I spotted the faery hole and faery in the photo above, and where we stopped to admire the scene in this panoramic photo – the grass-covered bank of the lake, a dock with a single small boat, water rippling from a slight breeze, a majestic mountain, and a few puffy clouds. Glorious!
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All too soon, it seemed, it was time to begin our drive back to North Queensferry. James took a different route than the one we traveled out on so that Debra and I could see more of the beautiful countryside. We were back on board the Pacific Princess 90 minutes after we left Loch Lomond.
We ate a relaxing dinner in the Panorama Buffet and then went on deck where we soaked in a beautiful sunset as we set sail for Newcastle upon Tyne, the next (and last) stop on our cruise.
We ate a relaxing dinner in the Panorama Buffet and then went on deck where we soaked in a beautiful sunset as we set sail for Newcastle upon Tyne, the next (and last) stop on our cruise.
Debra and I looked back on our day as we lingered on deck. Our bespoke tour was amazing, filled with wonderful experiences as we drove through the Lowlands and Highlands of north central Scotland. Culross. Stirling Castle. Loch Lomond. Trossachs National Park. This was the best day of our cruise, and we loved it all!