In February 2024, Jill and I toured Southeast Asia by land and by sea. We sailed from Thailand to Hong Kong on board the Crystal Symphony and spent two days in Bangkok and two days in Hong Kong before and after our cruise. We had an epic adventure!
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our journey.
This story, part of a series, is about my day in Chachoengsao, where I visited an ancient market and legendary Buddha.
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our journey.
This story, part of a series, is about my day in Chachoengsao, where I visited an ancient market and legendary Buddha.
On the bank of the Prawetburirom Canal in Chachoengsao, Thailand
Laem Chabang, Thailand (February 17, 2024) The Crystal Symphony overnighted at the port of Laem Chabang, and that’s where it stayed until it set sail this evening at seven.
I awoke at half past six, and while I didn’t sleep well—it was rare for me to get a good night’s sleep when I traveled—I was ready to start my day…a day filled of promise.
Jill was already up.
“Looks like you couldn’t sleep in either,” I said across the foot and a half divide between our beds.
“Do you mind if I shower first?”
“My excursion starts late morning, so go for it,” she replied.
Jill was going to the Elephant Jungle Sanctuary in Pattaya, located about 30 minutes south of Laem Chabang.
“Dad, I’m going to feed and walk with the elephants—something I’ve always wanted to do!” she happily said when she told me of her excursion.
Me? I booked ‘Live Like a Local,’ which seemed aligned with my goal to learn new things and experience cultures.
I’ll get to my excursion in a bit, but first…
I awoke at half past six, and while I didn’t sleep well—it was rare for me to get a good night’s sleep when I traveled—I was ready to start my day…a day filled of promise.
Jill was already up.
“Looks like you couldn’t sleep in either,” I said across the foot and a half divide between our beds.
“Do you mind if I shower first?”
“My excursion starts late morning, so go for it,” she replied.
Jill was going to the Elephant Jungle Sanctuary in Pattaya, located about 30 minutes south of Laem Chabang.
“Dad, I’m going to feed and walk with the elephants—something I’ve always wanted to do!” she happily said when she told me of her excursion.
Me? I booked ‘Live Like a Local,’ which seemed aligned with my goal to learn new things and experience cultures.
I’ll get to my excursion in a bit, but first…
I developed a couple of daily habits on this trip, and one was an early morning video chat with my wife, Debra—a quiet time for us to be together even though we were thousands of miles, and 14 times zones, apart. Why morning? Because my morning was her late afternoon…the day before.
“Love you,” we both said as we finished our chat this morning, and then Debra added, “Have a great time and be safe! Oh…and don’t forget to drink plenty of water.”
I didn’t forget, which helped when the temperature reached 100 in the midafternoon.
My other daily habit was breakfast at Marketplace, the ship’s buffet-style restaurant, because every morning the buffet offered:
“Love you,” we both said as we finished our chat this morning, and then Debra added, “Have a great time and be safe! Oh…and don’t forget to drink plenty of water.”
I didn’t forget, which helped when the temperature reached 100 in the midafternoon.
My other daily habit was breakfast at Marketplace, the ship’s buffet-style restaurant, because every morning the buffet offered:
|
Donuts, and pastries; pancakes and French toast; fresh, steamed, and grilled veggies; soup; granola and Kellogg’s boxed cereals; whole, sliced, and stewed fruits; made-to-order omelets; scrambled eggs, potatoes, beans, ham, sausage, and bacon; sliced cold cuts, salmon, and cheeses; yogurts; dried fruits and nuts; and coffee, tea, juice, and smoothies.
|
I loved the variety AND quality of the food served, and appreciated the staff’s always flawless, well-mannered service.
Here’s what I had this morning in two photos, typical of my breakfast every day:
Here’s what I had this morning in two photos, typical of my breakfast every day:
|
|
I was fond of the fresh fruit—juicy, sweet, and refreshing!—and none more so than the tropical fruits, like papaya and mango.
|
Explore the historical town of Chachoengsao, home of extraordinary Buddhist temples, Chinese shrines, and interesting markets. Drive through the town’s picturesque countryside until you reach Klong Suan Market…which dates to King Rama V. Stop for lunch at a neighborhood restaurant on the riverside which is popular with locals. Continue to the sacred Luang Pho Sothon, the center of spiritual faith in the local community.
~ Crystal Cruises
|
Please join me on my excursion, ‘Live Like a Local.’
The Klong Suan Market, sometimes called the 100 Years Market, was established by the Thai-Chinese community as a trading center in the early 20th century. The market is located on the Prawetburirom Canal, about 60 miles west of Bangkok; in the early days, this canal was the main waterway between the town and the city.
The Klong Suan Market, sometimes called the 100 Years Market, was established by the Thai-Chinese community as a trading center in the early 20th century. The market is located on the Prawetburirom Canal, about 60 miles west of Bangkok; in the early days, this canal was the main waterway between the town and the city.
|
“This market looks largely the same as it did when it opened,” our guide said, “and it still sells many of the same products—rice, meat, fruit, and other foods.”
Our guide—shame on me, as I failed to register his name—led us into the market, and before he turned us loose to wander on our own, he said, “There are three communities of people who live peacefully in this area—Thai, Chinese, and Muslim.” Later, I read Muslims made up roughly 5% of Thailand’s population, while the country’s Chinese community, about 12% of its population, was the largest in the world outside China. |
|
“You have 20 minutes to explore the market. Please return to the bus no later than 12:45.”
I walked the market—it was somewhat longer than the length of a football field—from one end to the other and back on a wooden walkway, and shot a video as I went, the better for me to remember the market by.
The walkway, covered with a neoprene runner, was made of planks laid out in a straight line that ran its full length. There was a continuous line of small, wooden stalls and shops on either side of the walkway—shops on one side, stalls on the other—and many of the shops were topped with modest, second story structures where shop owners lived. I stopped at several for a look-see along the way, but nothing screamed "Buy me!"...which was just as well. Most of the wares for sale were displayed on tables in front of the shops and in the stalls, and the tables were protected from the elements by a corrugated metal roof that was laid across a gabled wooden frame.
Nothing looked new, everything about the market was well-maintained, and on this Saturday morning it was busy, with locals and tourists alike.
Yep, I imagine this market DOES look largely the same as it was when it opened, I thought. Talk about a piece of Thai history and culture!
I was so intent on taking the video that I neglected to snap pics...so what follows are snippets from my video. As you will see, food wasn’t the only thing for sale.
I walked the market—it was somewhat longer than the length of a football field—from one end to the other and back on a wooden walkway, and shot a video as I went, the better for me to remember the market by.
The walkway, covered with a neoprene runner, was made of planks laid out in a straight line that ran its full length. There was a continuous line of small, wooden stalls and shops on either side of the walkway—shops on one side, stalls on the other—and many of the shops were topped with modest, second story structures where shop owners lived. I stopped at several for a look-see along the way, but nothing screamed "Buy me!"...which was just as well. Most of the wares for sale were displayed on tables in front of the shops and in the stalls, and the tables were protected from the elements by a corrugated metal roof that was laid across a gabled wooden frame.
Nothing looked new, everything about the market was well-maintained, and on this Saturday morning it was busy, with locals and tourists alike.
Yep, I imagine this market DOES look largely the same as it was when it opened, I thought. Talk about a piece of Thai history and culture!
I was so intent on taking the video that I neglected to snap pics...so what follows are snippets from my video. As you will see, food wasn’t the only thing for sale.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
For several minutes I eyed the mixture in the pic at the bottom right. Was it safe for me to eat, I wondered. And then, our guide sidled up to me.
“What is this called and what’s in it?” I asked him.
“It is Crispy Kankong,” he answered. “The main ingredient is spinach leaves dipped in egg and flour batter, then deep fried until crispy. There are also peas, nuts, and peppers.”
Then he spoke to the vendor in Thai, and before I knew it, she handed a small plastic cup with a sample of Crispy Kankong to me. Just a bit nervous, I took a bite. Guess what? It was good…and I’m glad to report I did not get sick!
“What is this called and what’s in it?” I asked him.
“It is Crispy Kankong,” he answered. “The main ingredient is spinach leaves dipped in egg and flour batter, then deep fried until crispy. There are also peas, nuts, and peppers.”
Then he spoke to the vendor in Thai, and before I knew it, she handed a small plastic cup with a sample of Crispy Kankong to me. Just a bit nervous, I took a bite. Guess what? It was good…and I’m glad to report I did not get sick!
|
This barbershop caught my eye. One chair, one customer, one barber—a short, gray-haired fellow who trimmed his customer’s hair with an electric clipper.
On the long drive back to Laem Chabang, I Googled ‘Klong Suan Market,’ and from an article I opened, I learned the barber was a 78-year-old named Dumrong, whose “father started the barber shop before he was born.” The barbershop was one of the market’s many multi-generational businesses. Klong Suan Market was a mix of old and new, and I loved that it maintained the feel of a bygone era—a simpler time when consumerism was local and personal, and part of a communal way of life. |
|
As I neared our bus, I stopped for a closer look at something I was certain was spiritual—something I spotted adjacent to homes and businesses as we drove through Chachoengsao.
“What are these?” I asked our guide, who was standing nearby.
“What are these?” I asked our guide, who was standing nearby.
|
“These are San Phra Phum, or Thai spirit houses,” he said. “They are common in Thailand, although you will see them in other Asian countries as well.”
He told me the shrines were typically in the form of small, roofed structures mounted on a pillar or dais. The smaller shrine was for a mischievous spirit that might otherwise want to reside in one’s house, while the larger shrine housed the protective spirit who kept watch over the mischievous spirit. “Thai people decorate spirit houses with figurines,” he added, “and make regular offerings to the spirits.” What a fascinating culture. |
“We have a 20-minute drive to our next stop, Ake-kanake Thai, where we will have lunch at this restaurant favored by locals.”
Ake-kanake Thai, located on the eastern bank of the Bang Pakong River, was cavernous and filled with nondescript tables—every table was occupied, which I took as a good sign—that seated six to eight people on what I would describe as akin to stackable office chairs.
Ake-kanake Thai, located on the eastern bank of the Bang Pakong River, was cavernous and filled with nondescript tables—every table was occupied, which I took as a good sign—that seated six to eight people on what I would describe as akin to stackable office chairs.
|
|
Well, I wasn’t there for the ambience, but rather to dine on authentic Thai cuisine in an authentic Thai restaurant.
I’m no foodie, so all I can share about our Thai meal was that the many courses—all served family style—included soup, rice, fish, chicken, and pork. I must have been hungry, and intent on eating, as I snapped just three pics of our food.
I’m no foodie, so all I can share about our Thai meal was that the many courses—all served family style—included soup, rice, fish, chicken, and pork. I must have been hungry, and intent on eating, as I snapped just three pics of our food.
|
|
All the dishes were flavorful, and there wasn’t a course I didn’t try…which is to say, I ate everything!
While the ambience of the restaurant left something to be desired, I loved the food and, more so, the experience of having an authentic Thai meal in a quiet, rural place surrounded by locals.
As we drove to our next stop, our guide said, “Wat Sothon Wararam Woraviharn is the oldest and most revered temple in the Chachoengsao Province. The original temple was built in the second half of the 17th century, during the reign of King Nari the Great. There you will find Luang Phor Sothon, one of the most important Buddha images in Thailand, and which, according to legend, was fished out of a nearby river.”
A legend? Fished out of a river? Well, that sounds interesting, I thought. I had to use a lifeline—a Google Search—to learn more.
While the ambience of the restaurant left something to be desired, I loved the food and, more so, the experience of having an authentic Thai meal in a quiet, rural place surrounded by locals.
As we drove to our next stop, our guide said, “Wat Sothon Wararam Woraviharn is the oldest and most revered temple in the Chachoengsao Province. The original temple was built in the second half of the 17th century, during the reign of King Nari the Great. There you will find Luang Phor Sothon, one of the most important Buddha images in Thailand, and which, according to legend, was fished out of a nearby river.”
A legend? Fished out of a river? Well, that sounds interesting, I thought. I had to use a lifeline—a Google Search—to learn more.
The Legend of Luang Phor Sothon
More than three centuries ago, during the reign of King Narai the Great, three large bronze Buddha images were unbelievably discovered floating in Bang Pakong River by a fisherman. Suddenly, the water current increased and became turbulent. Two of the three images were swept downstream whilst the third remained in the water.
A guru monk from Wat Hong was summoned to help invite the remaining Buddha to reside in the village. The monk then sat by the riverbank and began chanting. To the surprise of the villagers, the Buddha image began flowing towards the riverbank as the monk chanted.
The image of Luang Phor Sothon was invited to be enshrined in Wat Hong which was subsequently renamed Wat Sothon Wararam Woraviharn.
A guru monk from Wat Hong was summoned to help invite the remaining Buddha to reside in the village. The monk then sat by the riverbank and began chanting. To the surprise of the villagers, the Buddha image began flowing towards the riverbank as the monk chanted.
The image of Luang Phor Sothon was invited to be enshrined in Wat Hong which was subsequently renamed Wat Sothon Wararam Woraviharn.
~ regaliathai.com
|
Wat Sothon Wararam Woraviharn (‘wat’ is the Thai word for ‘temple’) was built in traditional Thai style—a gilded exterior, an elaborate multi-tiered roof (known as a ‘prang’), and intricate carvings.
Stunning, isn’t it?! There was another important element of this architectural style—the ubosot, which was the main hall within the temple. And it was there, in the recently renovated two-story ubosot painted white and gilded in gold, where I saw Luang Phor Sothon, a golden Buddha surrounded by other golden Buddhas, in a seven-point meditation posture. |
|
(As an aside, after three days of sightseeing in Thailand, I noticed that Thailand was awash in golden temples and golden Buddhas!)
Now, I know what you are thinking— many of the Buddhas in this pic are in the meditation posture, so which one is the ‘real’ Luang Phor Sothon.
Sorry, I don’t have a definitive answer, only an ‘I believe.’
Sorry, I don’t have a definitive answer, only an ‘I believe.’
|
Luang Phor Sothon is 148 centimeters high, and 165 centimeters from knee to knee—about 4.8 feet by 5.4 feet. These measurements directed me to one of the two large Buddhas at the center of the raised platform, and I believe (there it is!) Luang Phor Sothon is the larger of the two—the one behind the other.
That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it! There was a continuous flow of people who knelt and prayed to the Buddas, including a monk wrapped in a saffron-colored robe. The flowers you see are known as ‘satkarapuja’—offerings of reverence that “hold deep significance and are an integral part of devotional practices” in Buddhist temples. |
|
|
|
There was another large hall—I don’t know its name—that housed many Buddhas of all shapes and sizes. Visitors, including a monk wrapped in a saffron-colored robe, knelt and prayed in front of one Buddha or another, and made symbolic gifts of paper money—‘symbolic’ because the paper money was not real—as an “act of generosity to express reverence and respect for the Buddha.”
What an interesting culture, I thought. 
|
|
Wat Sothon Wararam Woraviharn, beautiful inside and out, was decidedly different from the other temples I saw in Thailand. It was, perhaps, the grandest of all, and certainly the most important in the Chachoengsao Province, where the Legend of Luang Phor Sothon began. And because of its location some 60 miles east of Bangkok, Wat Sothon Wararam Woraviharn was much less crowded, and therefore a more peaceful experience for me.
I was back on the ship by five, and Jill an hour later.
Showered—it felt soooo good after a full day in brutal weather—and dressed in clean clothes, we had dinner at Waterside, the main dining room of the Symphony. I had a four-course meal—seared ahi tuna, parsnip soup, roasted monkfish, and an apple and honey trifle. Delicious, and the service was impeccable again!
Later, we sat mesmerized by the piano playing prowess (was that an alliteration I just rattled off?!) of Carl Wishneusky, a “dynamic and versatile entertainer (who) shines whether performing a formal classical recital (or) singing in a piano bar.” He performed well-known classic American songs from the ‘20s to ‘50s. It was a treat to watch his fingers ‘tickle the ivories,’ his handwork captured by an overhead camera and projected onto a large screen above the stage. We loved his performance and were pleased to learn he would return to the stage later in the cruise.
Showered—it felt soooo good after a full day in brutal weather—and dressed in clean clothes, we had dinner at Waterside, the main dining room of the Symphony. I had a four-course meal—seared ahi tuna, parsnip soup, roasted monkfish, and an apple and honey trifle. Delicious, and the service was impeccable again!
Later, we sat mesmerized by the piano playing prowess (was that an alliteration I just rattled off?!) of Carl Wishneusky, a “dynamic and versatile entertainer (who) shines whether performing a formal classical recital (or) singing in a piano bar.” He performed well-known classic American songs from the ‘20s to ‘50s. It was a treat to watch his fingers ‘tickle the ivories,’ his handwork captured by an overhead camera and projected onto a large screen above the stage. We loved his performance and were pleased to learn he would return to the stage later in the cruise.
And that was my day—a great day that delivered what I had hoped for and more.
The Symphony sailed through the night and the following morning, and it docked in Sihanoukville at midday on Sunday. There, Jill and I went on an excursion together, ‘Simply Sihanoukville.’ I look forward to sharing our experiences with you in my next story.
The Symphony sailed through the night and the following morning, and it docked in Sihanoukville at midday on Sunday. There, Jill and I went on an excursion together, ‘Simply Sihanoukville.’ I look forward to sharing our experiences with you in my next story.