In July 2025, Debra and I embarked on a grand voyage along the coast of Alaska, a two-week cruise aboard Crystal Serenity. We sailed from Vancouver to Seward and back, with port stops in Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway, Sitka, and Icy Strait Point, with a transit through the wild landscape of Hubbard Glacier. We had the time of our lives!
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our voyage.
This story, part of a series, is about our day in Sitka.
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our voyage.
This story, part of a series, is about our day in Sitka.
Debra and me in Sitka National Historical Park
Sitka, Alaska (July 19, 2024) Debra and I have visited many places, but we’d never been to Sitka. Unless, of course, one counts watching The Proposal—as we have several times, I might add—a rom-com set in Sitka that starred Sandra Bullock and Ryan Reynolds. Never mind that the scenes in Sitka—most of the film takes place there—were filmed more than 4,000 miles away in Manchester-on-the-Sea, a coastal town in Massachusetts. The Hollywood version of Sitka was Sitka to us…until Sitka was a port of call on our grand voyage along the coast of Alaska.
(As an aside, I read “many locals were upset by the movie for misrepresenting their city.” For the record, Debra and I found Sitka to be more charming and picturesque than the Hollywood version.)
Join us, if you will, as we explore “the best Sitka has to offer” on a half-day, aptly named tour, The Best of Sitka:
(As an aside, I read “many locals were upset by the movie for misrepresenting their city.” For the record, Debra and I found Sitka to be more charming and picturesque than the Hollywood version.)
Join us, if you will, as we explore “the best Sitka has to offer” on a half-day, aptly named tour, The Best of Sitka:
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This excursion, by private motor coach, includes a stop at the Fortress of the Bear, a visit to Sitka National Historical Park, and a wildlife tour through the Alaska Raptor Center. Throughout your tour, your driver and guide will tell you about the rich cultural history of Sitka and mention points of interest along the way.
~ Crystal Cruises
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Without giving anything away, I can tell you this tour was a winner for Debra and me, as we enjoyed each waypoint and collected wonderful memories along the way.
The Serenity docked at 8AM, and the weather throughout the day was, well…much the same as it had been in Icy Strait Point the day before. The temperature was in the mid-50s, it rained, and there was a moderate breeze from the south. Unlike in Icy Strait Point, though, Debra and I didn’t let the weather scare us off the tour we booked.
I suspect most of you haven’t been to Sitka, so I’ll digress and talk about the it…but for just a bit, I promise.
Sitka, located on Baranof Island, is the first and oldest city in Alaska, settled by the Tlingit people more than 10,000 years ago. In the 1800s, they named this area "Sheetʼká,” which translates to “People on the Outside of Baranof Island”—an island named for Alexander Baranov, a Russian trader and merchant who, in 1799, became the first governor of what was then called ‘Russian America.’
Russia, as you may recall from history class, laid claim to the northern territories along the Pacific coast of the Americas, which included present-day Alaska. Sitka was the former capital of Russian America, and it served as its capital until the United States purchased the Alaska territory in 1867—a purchase that earned the derisive nickname ‘Seward’s Folly,’ as it was ridiculed in Congress and by the press. (But by any measure, the purchase price—then, $7.2 million, the equivalent of $130 million today—it WAS a steal!)
There are several historical landmarks in Sitka that reflect its Russian heritage—although we did not see any on our excursion this day—including St. Michael’s Cathedral and the Russian Bishop’s House. However, I saw both nearly a week later when we stopped in Sitka for a second time on our return journey from Seward to Vancouver.
Aside from the historical landmarks, Sitka is well-known for its rich native Alaskan culture, an abundance of wildlife, and endless options for outdoor activities—hiking, fishing, whale watching, kayaking, and more. No wonder, then, that tourism is the city’s second largest industry (after healthcare).
Ok…time to head out on our tour.
Debra and I debarked at half past nine and joined 30 or so fellow passengers on a 15-minute drive east along Saw Mill Creek Road to our first stop.
I suspect most of you haven’t been to Sitka, so I’ll digress and talk about the it…but for just a bit, I promise.
Sitka, located on Baranof Island, is the first and oldest city in Alaska, settled by the Tlingit people more than 10,000 years ago. In the 1800s, they named this area "Sheetʼká,” which translates to “People on the Outside of Baranof Island”—an island named for Alexander Baranov, a Russian trader and merchant who, in 1799, became the first governor of what was then called ‘Russian America.’
Russia, as you may recall from history class, laid claim to the northern territories along the Pacific coast of the Americas, which included present-day Alaska. Sitka was the former capital of Russian America, and it served as its capital until the United States purchased the Alaska territory in 1867—a purchase that earned the derisive nickname ‘Seward’s Folly,’ as it was ridiculed in Congress and by the press. (But by any measure, the purchase price—then, $7.2 million, the equivalent of $130 million today—it WAS a steal!)
There are several historical landmarks in Sitka that reflect its Russian heritage—although we did not see any on our excursion this day—including St. Michael’s Cathedral and the Russian Bishop’s House. However, I saw both nearly a week later when we stopped in Sitka for a second time on our return journey from Seward to Vancouver.
Aside from the historical landmarks, Sitka is well-known for its rich native Alaskan culture, an abundance of wildlife, and endless options for outdoor activities—hiking, fishing, whale watching, kayaking, and more. No wonder, then, that tourism is the city’s second largest industry (after healthcare).
Ok…time to head out on our tour.
Debra and I debarked at half past nine and joined 30 or so fellow passengers on a 15-minute drive east along Saw Mill Creek Road to our first stop.
Fortress of the Bear
The word ‘fortress’ conjures up images of protection and security, and in fact, this is what Fortress of the Bear, which opened in 2003, does: As a rescue facility, it shelters and looks after orphaned bears from all over the state of Alaska.
The bears are housed in three enclosures, and each enclosure mimics their natural environment.
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There were eight ‘resident bears’ the day we visited, and each bear was named. While I haven’t a clue as to the name of these—the bears in the photos above—I do know, from a storyboard near the enclosures, that three of the bears were named Smokey, Bandit, and Tuliaan, and I learned something about each one. Smokey, for example, was a female born in Seward in January 2013 whose “mother was shot for getting too close to town.”
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There’s a covered area, a building with large windows and an indoor balcony, from which we viewed the bears from above. Through one of the windows, I “discovered” there was an outdoor, ground-level viewing area as well.
“Hon,” I said to Debra, “I’m heading outdoors for a closer look at the bears.” “You do that,” she replied with a smile, “while I stay dry and warm indoors.” |
I REALLY had a closer look, as one bear—it was a coastal brown bear—wandered within 10 yards or so of where I stood. This was likely as close as I’ll ever be (or care to be) to a half-ton, 8-foot-tall bear!
It was awesome to see these massive creatures ‘up close and personal’—to be close enough to really see their distinguishing features: concave face, small eyes, rounded ears, and slight curved claws—and to watch them behave much as they would in the wild.
Thirty minutes—our allotted period—came and went. It was time to head to our second stop.
It was awesome to see these massive creatures ‘up close and personal’—to be close enough to really see their distinguishing features: concave face, small eyes, rounded ears, and slight curved claws—and to watch them behave much as they would in the wild.
Thirty minutes—our allotted period—came and went. It was time to head to our second stop.
Sitka National Historical Park
We drove back in the direction we came from, following the same route, to reach the oldest national park in Alaska, established by President Benjamin Harrison on June 21, 1890. There, we strolled along a totem-lined trail through the Tongass—well, a small section of it as the Tongass, with nearly 17 million acres, is the largest temperate rain forest in the United States.
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It rained almost the entire time we walked the trail, but neither Debra nor I let the rain dampen our spirit. And unlike the fellow behind us, we toughed it out sans umbrella!
So, you might inquire, “What’s the significance of this park?” I’m glad you asked. |
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This was the site where the 1804 “Battle of Sitka” was fought—the last major armed conflict between the Russians and the Tlingit people near the outset of Russia’s colonization of the Americas. The battle lasted four days, and in the end, the Tlingit people departed the fort they had built, under cover of darkness…but not before “they gathered together for a last song, one that ended with a loud drum roll and a wail of anguish.”
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The one-mile trail began and ended near the visitor center. We had the option to explore on our own or follow a ranger, and we chose the latter. Our ranger was a young fellow—the Doogie Howser of park rangers, by his youthful appearance—whose name is Ben. He was a wellspring of interesting information, and he freely shared his knowledge with us. For example, he used a storyboard to relate the life cycle of salmon, from eggs to hatchlings to fry (young salmon) to ocean adults to migrating adults. By the way, the fish pictured on the storyboard is a male pink salmon, also called a humpback “because it develops a distinctive hump as a migrating adult in order to attract female fish and intimidate rival males,” said Ben.
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The animal world is fascinating, I thought.
There was a small wooden bridge that spanned a stream—it’s called the Indian River—near the storyboard. It flows through the Park and into Jamestown Bay. Ben said, “Often, you can spot salmon that have returned to this steam to spawn.”
I looked upstream. Nothing. I looked downstream. Wait…what is that, I wondered. Salmon?
“Ben, look there,” I said as I pointed to a spot in the river.
There were two salmon, presumably a female and a male, and they appeared to be doing what salmons do—they were spawning—when they return to these protected waterways.
What a treat!
There were many types of shrubs and trees, including Devil’s club and Sitka Spruce (right-hand and left-hand photos below, respectively). When Ben first pointed out Devil’s club, he said, “Do not touch this plant, as it can cause irritation, pain, and an allergic reaction.”
It might have been my imagination, but I thought I saw Debra take a BIG step back from the plant. Wink wink.
There was a small wooden bridge that spanned a stream—it’s called the Indian River—near the storyboard. It flows through the Park and into Jamestown Bay. Ben said, “Often, you can spot salmon that have returned to this steam to spawn.”
I looked upstream. Nothing. I looked downstream. Wait…what is that, I wondered. Salmon?
“Ben, look there,” I said as I pointed to a spot in the river.
There were two salmon, presumably a female and a male, and they appeared to be doing what salmons do—they were spawning—when they return to these protected waterways.
What a treat!
There were many types of shrubs and trees, including Devil’s club and Sitka Spruce (right-hand and left-hand photos below, respectively). When Ben first pointed out Devil’s club, he said, “Do not touch this plant, as it can cause irritation, pain, and an allergic reaction.”
It might have been my imagination, but I thought I saw Debra take a BIG step back from the plant. Wink wink.
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There was another shrub in abundance, and it was called the salmonberry.
“The fruit of this plant is edible, so feel free to try it,” Ben said.
I did, and so did Debra. The taste was mildly sweet and a bit tart, which made for an interesting combination. It was fun to be able to eat something we picked wild.
“There are different types of totem poles along the trail,” Ben explained. “There are house posts, frontal poles, and detached poles,” he added before he explained what each one was. Totem poles, we learned, generally convey the ancestry or history of a particular clan, or they might commemorate a person or event.
“Are these poles original?” I asked.
“No,” replied Ben. “They are recarvings of older poles—a process through which a skilled carver repairs or restores an existing pole that was damaged or has weathered over time. It is a rite of honor to the culture and heritage of the Tlingit people.”
“The fruit of this plant is edible, so feel free to try it,” Ben said.
I did, and so did Debra. The taste was mildly sweet and a bit tart, which made for an interesting combination. It was fun to be able to eat something we picked wild.
“There are different types of totem poles along the trail,” Ben explained. “There are house posts, frontal poles, and detached poles,” he added before he explained what each one was. Totem poles, we learned, generally convey the ancestry or history of a particular clan, or they might commemorate a person or event.
“Are these poles original?” I asked.
“No,” replied Ben. “They are recarvings of older poles—a process through which a skilled carver repairs or restores an existing pole that was damaged or has weathered over time. It is a rite of honor to the culture and heritage of the Tlingit people.”
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Of the activities that Debra and I do together, the one we enjoy most is a walk through the woods—an opportunity to be one with Nature. So, it was no surprise that our favorite part of the Best of Sitka tour was our walk through the woods at Sitka National Historical Park.
Now, it’s time to go to the third (and final) stop.
Now, it’s time to go to the third (and final) stop.
Alaska Raptor Center
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Much like the Fortress of the Bear, the Alaska Raptor Center is, first and foremost, a rescue and care facility for injured and orphaned birds of prey—eagles, owls, hawks, and other raptors. It’s number one goal “is to rehabilitate and send birds back to the wild.”
Over the course of a year, the Center treats, on average, over 150 birds. It also houses, as permanent residents, 25 birds who can no longer fly or fend for themselves. The oldest bird in residence—more than 30 years old—is a bald eagle named Volta, who got its name after it encountered a power line. |
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The Center, which opened its doors in 1980, occupies 17 acres at the edge of the Tongass, a 20-minute walk from downtown Sitka. We didn’t walk there, of course—we rode the bus, and we reached it about five minutes after we left the Park. We had 45 minutes to wander on our own—about the minimum amount of time one needs to see everything here.
I read from storyboards as we strolled through the campus, which includes indoor and outdoor exhibits. Here are a few of the tidbits I gleaned:
Here are these four birds. Can you identify each? I’m sure you did.
I read from storyboards as we strolled through the campus, which includes indoor and outdoor exhibits. Here are a few of the tidbits I gleaned:
- Golden Eagles are “capable of amazing speed and maneuverability, with dives being recorded at close to 200 miles per hour.”
- Not to be outdone, the Peregrine falcon “has been recorded at 238 mph when in a dive (also known as stooping) down on their meal,” and they capture and kill their prey while still in the air.
- The Snowy Owl, which hunts mainly during the day, “tends to sit on the ground and wait for hours, using its amazing vision and hearing to lock onto its prey.”
- Bald eagles, referred to as “industrial birds of prey,” build the largest nests of any bird species in North America—“massive platforms that typically measure 4 to 6 feet in diameter and 2 to 4 feet deep.” The largest nest ever recorded, found in St. Petersburg, Florida in 1963, measured 9.5 feet in diameter, 20 feet deep, and weight more than 2 tons!
Here are these four birds. Can you identify each? I’m sure you did.
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I spotted a nature trail just past the cage that housed the Snowy Owl.
“You’re going, aren’t you.”
It was more of a statement than a question—my wife knows me so well!—so, I replied, Yes.”
“I’ll be inside the Center when you get back,” she said. “Don’t get lost and don’t lose track of time.”
That was a tall order, but for the record, I didn’t.
I followed the hardpack trail—maybe a quarter mile—as it meandered through a forest of spruce, hemlock, and various shrubs until I spotted a river through a small clearing. This was the same river—the Indian River—Debra and I saw earlier at Sitka National Historical Park. I wandered partway down the embankment for a better look-see at the river.
“You’re going, aren’t you.”
It was more of a statement than a question—my wife knows me so well!—so, I replied, Yes.”
“I’ll be inside the Center when you get back,” she said. “Don’t get lost and don’t lose track of time.”
That was a tall order, but for the record, I didn’t.
I followed the hardpack trail—maybe a quarter mile—as it meandered through a forest of spruce, hemlock, and various shrubs until I spotted a river through a small clearing. This was the same river—the Indian River—Debra and I saw earlier at Sitka National Historical Park. I wandered partway down the embankment for a better look-see at the river.
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I loved the sound of the water as it fell—the fall was gradual, the sound was gentle and soothing—over the rocks, and I was mesmerized by the swirling water this movement created. For me, this was a Zen moment, where I was in the present and free of all distractions.
Well…other than my way back and the ticking clock.
With time to spare, I found Debra in the Center, as she said she would be, and we walked hand-in-hand to the parking lot and our waiting bus. We weren’t the first on board…and we weren’t the last.
It was midafternoon when we reboarded the Serenity.
Well…other than my way back and the ticking clock.
With time to spare, I found Debra in the Center, as she said she would be, and we walked hand-in-hand to the parking lot and our waiting bus. We weren’t the first on board…and we weren’t the last.
It was midafternoon when we reboarded the Serenity.
Final Thoughts
As I shared at the outset, Sitka offers a wide range of activities. And like the saying, “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure,” different folks will have different ideas about what is the ‘best of Sitka.’
For Debra and me, The Best of Sitka—which is to say the tour we went on—was the best of Sitka for us. We came face to face with wildlife, stretched our legs on a nature walk, and gained a better understanding of the Tlingit—the “People of the Tides.”
Great experiences, wonderful memories!
For Debra and me, The Best of Sitka—which is to say the tour we went on—was the best of Sitka for us. We came face to face with wildlife, stretched our legs on a nature walk, and gained a better understanding of the Tlingit—the “People of the Tides.”
Great experiences, wonderful memories!