In June 2024, Debra and I took a road trip from northern Arizona through central Utah - from our home in Show Low to Salt Lake City. Why Salt Lake City? To renew our wedding vows in our Golden Anniversary year! We did a bit of sightseeing, too. Click HERE to read an intro to our trip.
Our ceremony was perfect and the sights we saw were amazing!
This story, the fifth in a series, is about the sights I saw on my self-guided tour in downtown Salt Lake City.
Our ceremony was perfect and the sights we saw were amazing!
This story, the fifth in a series, is about the sights I saw on my self-guided tour in downtown Salt Lake City.
Utah State Capitol Building
Salt Lake City, Utah (June 15, 2024) “No matter what choices we make,” wrote David Wolpe, “the world brings us to unexpected places.”
Wolpe wasn’t writing on travel—in fact, his topic was faith—but his observation, I believe, was well-known to those of us who travel more often than others. At least, this was my experience as a traveler—often, the path I chose led me to sites and attractions I hadn’t planned to see...or even knew existed.
Much to my delight, this was the case in point on this day.
Wolpe wasn’t writing on travel—in fact, his topic was faith—but his observation, I believe, was well-known to those of us who travel more often than others. At least, this was my experience as a traveler—often, the path I chose led me to sites and attractions I hadn’t planned to see...or even knew existed.
Much to my delight, this was the case in point on this day.
Debra and I slept in—it felt great!–and then eased our way into our day by relaxing ‘til late morning.
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Since we skipped breakfast—truth be told, Debra skipped breakfast most every day—we had an early lunch at Laurel Brasserie Restaurant & Bar in The Great American Hotel.
At dinner last evening—same restaurant—we salivated over the pizza a couple next to us ordered. When I asked, “Is it good?”, the fellow replied, “It’s great!” and offered us a slice. “That’s very generous,” I said, “but, on your recommendation, we’ll order one tomorrow.” And this was what we did at lunch. “Well, Deb, what did you think?” I asked. “This was one of the best pizzas I’ve ever had!” she replied. |
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After lunch, we strolled through the courtyard garden outside Laurel. The shrubs were beautifully manicured, and the beds were thick with colorful flowers.
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And then we found a shady spot on the patio to relax, surrounded by fragrant white roses. We didn’t know it at the time, but we would receive a bouquet of these long stem roses—in a glass vase—to use as a centerpiece when we renewed our vows the next day.
Early afternoon I said, “Hon, would you mind if I head downtown to see Temple Square?”
Temple Square, a 10-acre complex of spiritual and administrative buildings in the heart of downtown Salt Lake City, serves as the world headquarters of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Salt Lake City, drawing an estimated 5 million visitors a year—and was at the top of my short list of attractions to see.
“Of course not. How long will you be gone?”
“Ninety minutes at most.”
“Enjoy.”
Temple Square, a 10-acre complex of spiritual and administrative buildings in the heart of downtown Salt Lake City, serves as the world headquarters of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Salt Lake City, drawing an estimated 5 million visitors a year—and was at the top of my short list of attractions to see.
“Of course not. How long will you be gone?”
“Ninety minutes at most.”
“Enjoy.”
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Temple Square is located about one mile north of The Grand America Hotel.
A 20-minute walk, I thought as I set out. I’m sure I’ll be back within 90 minutes. When I reached Eagle Gate—a historic monument spanning State Street at South Temple (the southern boundary of Temple Square)—I spotted a domed building that I judged to be a half-mile away. What is that, I wondered as I made my way to it. |
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The distance I covered was closer to a mile, and the route was uphill. I’m in good shape, yet I was huffing and puffing a bit when I reached the top of the hill.
The domed building? It was Utah’s State Capitol Building—the main structure of the Capitol Complex, located on (big surprise!) Capitol Hill.
The domed building? It was Utah’s State Capitol Building—the main structure of the Capitol Complex, located on (big surprise!) Capitol Hill.
Always curious, I searched the internet to learn more.
The State Capitol Building, which was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1978, took four years to construct (1912 to 1916) and, more recently (2004 to 2006), three years to restore and renovate. The exterior, I read, was “inspired by Classical architecture, and some local newspapers compared the early designs to Greece’s Parthenon.” Perhaps it was, but the overall design—the portico, pediments, columns, and dome— reminded me of the U.S. Capitol Building in Washington, D.C. (on a smaller scale, of course).
The State Capitol Building, which was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1978, took four years to construct (1912 to 1916) and, more recently (2004 to 2006), three years to restore and renovate. The exterior, I read, was “inspired by Classical architecture, and some local newspapers compared the early designs to Greece’s Parthenon.” Perhaps it was, but the overall design—the portico, pediments, columns, and dome— reminded me of the U.S. Capitol Building in Washington, D.C. (on a smaller scale, of course).
I made a video call to Debra on Facebook—IMHO, this is one of its best features—to share what I was seeing with her and to let her know I’d be gone closer to three hours…because no matter the earlier choice I made (to return after I saw Temple Square), the world (my route) brought me to an unexpected place.
See…Wolpe was right!
“Thanks for letting me know. Be sure to drink plenty of water.”
“I will. Are you still sitting on the patio?”
“No…it was too hot for me. I’m relaxing in the lobby. See you when you get back.”
It WAS hot—according to the weather app on my phone, the temperature was in the upper 80s, approaching 90—and there was nary a cloud in the sky and only a slight breeze.
There was a monument on the grounds dedicated to the Morman Battalion, the “only religious group in United States military history…recruited solely from one religious body and having a religious title as the unit designation.” The Morman Battalion served in the Mexican American War from 1846 to 1848.
See…Wolpe was right!
“Thanks for letting me know. Be sure to drink plenty of water.”
“I will. Are you still sitting on the patio?”
“No…it was too hot for me. I’m relaxing in the lobby. See you when you get back.”
It WAS hot—according to the weather app on my phone, the temperature was in the upper 80s, approaching 90—and there was nary a cloud in the sky and only a slight breeze.
There was a monument on the grounds dedicated to the Morman Battalion, the “only religious group in United States military history…recruited solely from one religious body and having a religious title as the unit designation.” The Morman Battalion served in the Mexican American War from 1846 to 1848.
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The triangular monument, made of rose-pink granite and bronze, was sculpted by Gilbert Riswold and installed in 1927. The photo on the left shows the side facing the State Capitol Building.
There were two buildings across the street—White Memorial Chapel (left hand photo) and Old City Hall (right hand photo)—which deserved a closer look.
There were two buildings across the street—White Memorial Chapel (left hand photo) and Old City Hall (right hand photo)—which deserved a closer look.
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The chapel, I learned, was a reproduction of an earlier chapel owned by the LDS Church—a reproduction that incorporated a number of artifacts from the original chapel, including the steeple, leaded glass windows, and pulpit, when it was demolished in 1973. This space “now serves as a nondenominational meetinghouse for weddings, memorials, and other special gatherings.”
Old City Hall, designed in the Greek Revival style, was built in the 1860s at a cost of $70,000—but not at this location. Rather, it was downtown when built, but relocated to the present site in 1961 to make way for a federal office building. Old City Hall long ago ceased to function as a city hall, and according to the sign outside, it currently served as a Visitor Information Center and housed the Utah Office of Tourism and Utah Film Commission.
What’s old is new, I thought. It’s grand that the State relocated, restored, and repurposed both historic buildings, rather than merely demolish them. Now, it’s time to see Temple Square.
Old City Hall, designed in the Greek Revival style, was built in the 1860s at a cost of $70,000—but not at this location. Rather, it was downtown when built, but relocated to the present site in 1961 to make way for a federal office building. Old City Hall long ago ceased to function as a city hall, and according to the sign outside, it currently served as a Visitor Information Center and housed the Utah Office of Tourism and Utah Film Commission.
What’s old is new, I thought. It’s grand that the State relocated, restored, and repurposed both historic buildings, rather than merely demolish them. Now, it’s time to see Temple Square.
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On my way, I passed this stunning home. It was the McCune Mansion, built for railroad tycoon Alfred McCune. McCune wanted his home to be “an extravagant display,” so he sent his architect on a tour of Europe and America “to study designs and techniques.” The chosen design “was a Gothic Revival plan with East Asian influences.” With 21 rooms, the mansion was completed in 1901 at a cost of $1 million.
McCune donated his home to the LDS Church when he moved his family to Los Angeles in 1920. The current owner, the McCarthy Family, purchased the mansion in 1999 and restored it to “it’s original architectural splendor and exemplary workmanship.” Today, it serves as a venue for weddings and anniversaries, board meetings and retreats, and other occasions. |
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And there it was again—what was once old is now new…and repurposed.
I LOVED IT!
I had hoped to visit Salt Lake Temple—what I might call a church, but what the Latter-day Saints called a temple—which took 40 years to complete and was dedicated in 1893.
I LOVED IT!
I had hoped to visit Salt Lake Temple—what I might call a church, but what the Latter-day Saints called a temple—which took 40 years to complete and was dedicated in 1893.
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Unbeknownst to me—I learned of this when I toured the LDS Conference Center—Salt Lake Temple was closed in 2019 for “general remodeling and seismic renovations,” the latter a retrofit to make the Temple more resistant to seismic activity.
Here was what I saw when I gazed on the Temple (the larger structure, encased in scaffolding). This project will take seven years to complete, which means I need to return in 2026 to tour the Temple. Bummer. |
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All was not lost, though, as I wandered through the LDS Conference Center, a modern-looking building completed in 2000. With 1.4 million square feet and a 21,000-seat auditorium, the Conference Center is used primarily to host the semiannual general conference for Latter-day Saints and leaders from around the world.
(I know—the building doesn’t look that big in this photo. But this is only part of the façade—you can go online to see the entire building. Trust me, though, the building—the exterior and interior— WAS HUGE…and IMPRESSIVE!) The auditorium has three levels of seating, and each level—two levels were behind and above me when I snapped this pic—has 7,000 seats. |
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I couldn’t help but notice the pipes for the pipe organ—7,708 pipes in 130 ranks, I was told, and each was gilded with gold leaf.
The young docent I spoke with—she was one of many I saw, and each was engaged in a conversation with one or more visitors—told me that the larger pipe organ, in the nearby Salt Lake Tabernacle, has over 11,000 pipes.
Yowza!
She also invited me to come back the next morning to listen to the Tabernacle Choir.
“So sorry,” I replied, “but my wife and I will be renewing our wedding vows in nearby Draper tomorrow."
“How long have you been married?” she asked.
“Fifty years,” I replied. “It’s our Golden Anniversary.” And with a smile, I added, “As much as I would love to hear the choir, I cannot miss our ceremony.”
“Congratulations and best wishes to you and your wife.”
Sweet!
The Conference Center was filled with beautiful artwork—statues, sculptures, paintings, and more—including the ones that follow.
The young docent I spoke with—she was one of many I saw, and each was engaged in a conversation with one or more visitors—told me that the larger pipe organ, in the nearby Salt Lake Tabernacle, has over 11,000 pipes.
Yowza!
She also invited me to come back the next morning to listen to the Tabernacle Choir.
“So sorry,” I replied, “but my wife and I will be renewing our wedding vows in nearby Draper tomorrow."
“How long have you been married?” she asked.
“Fifty years,” I replied. “It’s our Golden Anniversary.” And with a smile, I added, “As much as I would love to hear the choir, I cannot miss our ceremony.”
“Congratulations and best wishes to you and your wife.”
Sweet!
The Conference Center was filled with beautiful artwork—statues, sculptures, paintings, and more—including the ones that follow.
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Clockwise from the top left-hand photo:
I encountered three more “unexpected” sights—landmarks, if you will—as I made my way to the hotel.
- The eight-foot-tall Statue of Christ, added to the Conference Center in 2019, is “a reminder of the New Testament Scripture in Matthew 11:28, “Come Unto Me.”
- The oil painting (2000), titled They Saw a Man Descending Out of Heaven, was the work of American painter and illustrator Walter Rane.
- The redware pot (fired ceramic, 1994), titled Lehi’s Vision of the Tree of Life—a subject from the Book of Mormon—was handmade from coiled clay by Pueblo potter and sculptor Tammy Garcia.
- The hanging glass sculpture, created by artist Tom Holdman, is known as the Roots of Knowledge—a “glass installation that depicts the history of human knowledge and progress.” It was stunning!
I encountered three more “unexpected” sights—landmarks, if you will—as I made my way to the hotel.
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The Eagle Emporium Building, built in 1864, is the oldest existing commercial building in downtown Salt Lake City. It was built by William Jennings, Utah’s first millionaire, for his mercantile business.
The ornate clock—which stood guard outside the building—was manufactured in 1873. Get this: It was originally powered by a waterwheel! Today, this building serves as a branch of Zions First National Bank. |
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This wall mural, which is 109 feet wide and 32 feet tall, chronicles the history of the Utah Jazz—an NBA team founded as the New Orleans Jazz in 1974, then relocated to Utah in 1979. Created by artist Trent Call, the mural features “intricate and cartoon-like basketball caricatures,” including Pistol Pete Maravich.
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The Walker Center building opened on December 9, 1912. It was originally built, in the Chicago School design style, as the headquarters for Walker Bank, which was founded in 1859 by four brothers—Samuel, Joseph, David, and Matthew Walker.
I saw plenty of contemporary buildings as I walked from the hotel to downtown and back, and many more when Debra and I drove to Draper for our vow renewal ceremony—so many contemporary buildings, in fact, that I came to think of Salt Lake City as a “modern town.” |
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Old City Hall, Eagle Emporium Building, the Walker Center Building, and other older buildings I saw this day reminded me that Salt Lake City, founded on July 24, 1847, was older—much older—than these modern-day buildings might suggest. I sure was glad the city fathers chose to preserve SLC history by safeguarding its early architecture!
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I reached The Grand America Hotel at half past three and found Debra sitting in an overstuffed chair in the hotel’s lobby. For a while, I regaled her with tales from my tour, much as I have done with you.
We had dinner at (where else) Laurel Brasserie—pasta and salad for both of us. And after dinner, we retired to the Gibson Lounge for an evening of music that featured vocalist Bridget Elsabe Galanis—she is “known for her cabaret shows inspired by classic Hollywood films”—with Derek Purdy on the piano. Bridget, who like me was born in a suburb of Cleveland, Ohio, performed two 45-minute sets. We LOVED her voice—and Purdy’s self-deprecating humor. |
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We were in our room by 10, and as I engaged the security lock on our door, Debra beckoned me from our balcony.
“Look at this,” she said when I joined her. “Isn’t it beautiful?”
“Look at this,” she said when I joined her. “Isn’t it beautiful?”
“It most certainly is,” I replied.
Salt Lake City—the grounds and buildings—were lit by a thousand lights or more.
“It looks like a city that never sleeps,” I added with a smile.
And that was our day—lovely from morning to night.
Salt Lake City—the grounds and buildings—were lit by a thousand lights or more.
“It looks like a city that never sleeps,” I added with a smile.
And that was our day—lovely from morning to night.