In May 2016, Debra and I embarked on a breathtaking 12-day cruise through the eastern Mediterranean. Saling aboard the Celebrity Equinox, we departed from the historic seaport of Civitavecchia—just north of Rome—making our way to the vibrant city of Barcelona. Along the journey, we explored captivating port stops in Italy, Greece, and Turkey.
Click HERE to read a short introduction about our magical cruise.
This story, part of a larger series, recounts our unforgettable day exploring the ancient ruins of Pompeii and the charming town of Amalfi.
Click HERE to read a short introduction about our magical cruise.
This story, part of a larger series, recounts our unforgettable day exploring the ancient ruins of Pompeii and the charming town of Amalfi.
Debra and me at the Forum of Pompeii
Salerno, Italy (May 20, 2016) Debra and I sprang into action at the sharp trill of our 5AM wake-up call, and an hour later, we were seated in Ocean View café aboard Celebrity Equinox, where we savored a hearty breakfast to fuel us for the full-day excursion ahead.
Our ship was docked in Salerno, a coastal gem in southern Italy known for its rich history, stunning architecture, and vibrant local culture. Yet, Salerno wasn’t our true destination—it was merely a gateway to two extraordinary places: the ancient ruins of Pompeii and the breathtaking Amalfi coast. Both promised adventure, each in their own unforgettable way.
Our ship was docked in Salerno, a coastal gem in southern Italy known for its rich history, stunning architecture, and vibrant local culture. Yet, Salerno wasn’t our true destination—it was merely a gateway to two extraordinary places: the ancient ruins of Pompeii and the breathtaking Amalfi coast. Both promised adventure, each in their own unforgettable way.
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The day began with the gentle warmth of spring—temperatures hovered in the low 70s, a mostly sunny sky stretched overhead, and there was a light Mediterranean breeze that carried the scent of the sea. It was a picture-perfect start, but…
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…by mid-afternoon, the mood shifted. As we arrived in Amalfi, Mother Nature played her familiar trick—summoning rain at a moment’s notice. Thankfully, it was nothing more than a light drizzle—an inconvenience that quickly passed, leaving behind a fresh scent from the rainfall.
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By 8AM we were settled aboard a coach bus, ready for the day’s adventure. That’s when we met Manuella, our tour guide, who possessed a wealth of knowledge and an engaging presence. As Debra later put it, “Manuella was a fount of information—and I absolutely loved listening to her Italian accent!”
Ancient Ruins of Pompeii
Italy is home to some of the world’s most breathtaking landmarks—the Colosseum and Vatican City in Rome, the canals and St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice, the medieval towns in Tuscany, and the Greek ruins and Mount Etna in Sicily, to name a few. And then there is the ancient city of Pompeii, frozen in time by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE—a cataclysmic event that buried this city under volcanic ash and pumice. It caught many residents unaware, and while their bodies decayed over time, they left behind hollowed impressions in the hardened ash—ghostly remnants of their final moments.
Mount Vesuvius, towering roughly 4,200 feet above the Bay of Naples, loomed just a few miles north of Pompeii. Though Debra and I couldn’t see the mountain in its entirety, we spied its rugged peak that rose high above the ruins—a silent guardian over the lost city.
But was it truly silent? Hardly. Mount Vesuvius, a still-active volcano, had erupted numerous times over the centuries, with major events in 1631, 1906, and 1944, serving as a stark reminder of its volatile nature. Luckily for us (wink wink), what drifted near the summit that day--Is that volcanic gas? I wondered—was nothing more than a passing cloud, an illusion of danger in a place marked by catastrophe.
Pompeii was home to upwards of 15,000 inhabitants, its boundaries stretching across 185 acres—roughly the size of 140 football fields. Today, 160 to 170 acres have been excavated and preserved. Guided by Manuella, our walking tour offered just a glimpse into this ancient city. In just two hours, we saw and learned about many of Pompeii’s must-see sights. But rest assured, I’ve only shared the few that left the most lasting impression on me.
The excavation, I read, “was a fascinating journey through time.” The ruins, buried beneath 19 to 23 feet of debris for nearly 1,500 years, were first discovered in the late 16th century. However, it wasn’t until the mid-18th century that archaeologists adopted a systematic approach to unearthing the city’s streets, homes, frescoes, and those haunting casts of victims. Each discovery offered extraordinary insights into daily life in ancient Rome.
Pompeii was home to upwards of 15,000 inhabitants, its boundaries stretching across 185 acres—roughly the size of 140 football fields. Today, 160 to 170 acres have been excavated and preserved. Guided by Manuella, our walking tour offered just a glimpse into this ancient city. In just two hours, we saw and learned about many of Pompeii’s must-see sights. But rest assured, I’ve only shared the few that left the most lasting impression on me.
The excavation, I read, “was a fascinating journey through time.” The ruins, buried beneath 19 to 23 feet of debris for nearly 1,500 years, were first discovered in the late 16th century. However, it wasn’t until the mid-18th century that archaeologists adopted a systematic approach to unearthing the city’s streets, homes, frescoes, and those haunting casts of victims. Each discovery offered extraordinary insights into daily life in ancient Rome.
I won’t speak for Debra, but I was beyond excited. Unlike other ancient ruins that crumbled over centuries, Pompeii was buried so suddenly that its streets, homes, and everyday objects remained remarkably intact. I had no doubt I would feel as if I had time traveled to ancient Rome.
(Spoiler Alert: I absolutely did!)
(Spoiler Alert: I absolutely did!)
The photos that follow capture Via dell’Abbondanza, Pompeii’s main thoroughfare, which stretched nearly 3,000 feet from the Forum to Porto Sarno, one of the city’s ancient gates. Manuella shared that its name translated as the “Street of Abundance.” It certainly lived up to its name, as it was lined with shops, workshops, cafes, restaurants, public baths, residences, and public buildings—everything that represented the daily lives of Pompeii’s citizens. Via dell’Abbondanza was a vivid window into the past.
Soon we reached the Forum of Pompeii, a large rectangular plaza that was the bustling heart of the city. In my opinion—shared by many, I know—the Forum was the most striking and well-preserved areas of the ruins. For me, it was also the most exciting place to be because it served as the political, commercial, religious, and social hub of the city—“the epicenter of Pompeian life,” Manuella said—where citizens gathered for trade, legal proceedings, and public events.
The Forum featured several notable statues—most were made of bronze—placed there to honor prominent individuals and deities. Almost every statue was bigger-than-life. Their impressive size, Manuella told us, was intentional, “designed to convey power and authority.”
The plaza, which was paved with travertine—a durable limestone resistant to wear, though much of it has worn away over time—was lined with porticos supported by columns to create a grand and open space for gatherings. It was also home to the Temple of Apollo, one of the oldest structures in Pompeii.
In many respects, the Forum of Pompeii mirrored the Roman Forum in Rome, which Debra and I explored just days earlier. Though not as expansive, Pompeii’s Forum had a distinct character—with its smaller scale and remarkable preservation, it offered a clearer window into the city’s past.
Near the end of our tour, we stepped into the Stabian Baths, a grand, multi-room complex that served as a bathhouse open to all citizens of Pompeii, regardless of social status. Its chambers ranged from steaming hot baths to cool, refreshing pools, with open spaces to exercise, relax, and conduct business.
Near the end of our tour, we stepped into the Stabian Baths, a grand, multi-room complex that served as a bathhouse open to all citizens of Pompeii, regardless of social status. Its chambers ranged from steaming hot baths to cool, refreshing pools, with open spaces to exercise, relax, and conduct business.
Despite the widespread devastation from the volcanic eruption in 79 CE, much of its beauty was still visible, including intricate frescoes and stucco work. As Debra and I wandered through the ruins, it was surprisingly easy to picture the rituals that were a vital part of Pompeii’s daily life—soothing baths, grooming services, recreation, and quiet conversations.
I had read that opinions on Pompeii were mixed—some found it overwhelming, others mesmerizing—but standing amidst the ruins, I knew I was on the side of those who found it worth visiting. I expected to admire history, but instead I walked through it. It was fascinating, powerful, and awe-inspiring!
A Taste of Italy
Before we left the town of Pompeii, we indulged in a memorable meal at Ristorante Il Vesuvio, a family-run spot serving authentic Neapolitan cuisine—pizza, pasta, and seafood dishes. We began with a generous caprese salad, a refreshing combination of ripe tomatoes, creamy mozzarella, fragrant basil, and a drizzle of olive oil. Next came spinach and cheese cannelloni, a classic Italian dish with tender tubes of pasta filled with a velvety blend of spinach and ricotta, baked to perfection in a rich tomato sauce. Every bite was a delight!
And to round off our experience? A decadent slice of chocolate cake, paired with sparkling glasses of Prosecco—a sweet finish to an unforgettable lunch.
And to round off our experience? A decadent slice of chocolate cake, paired with sparkling glasses of Prosecco—a sweet finish to an unforgettable lunch.
Debra, Manuella, and me at Ristorante Il Vesuvio
With the benefit of hindsight, I can tell you that the ancient ruins of Pompeii were the highlight of the day for me, but not so for Debra. For her, the best was yet to come.
On the Amalfi Coast
There’s a breathtaking stretch of coastline along the southern edge of Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula that overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea (an arm of the Mediterranean) and the Gulf of Salerno. It’s known as the Amalfi Coast, and it’s a world-renowned destination easily accessible via the scenic Amalfi Drive, a 25-mile winding road that connects Positano in the west to Salerno in the east, hugging the cliffs and offering spectacular views—colorful villages, hidden coves, picturesque beaches, and crystal-clear turquoise waters—at nearly every turn.
I’m sure you’ve seen the postcard-perfect photos of the Amalfi Coast—stunning hillside landscapes, vibrant colors, dreamy compositions. Or maybe you’ve been lucky enough to experience it firsthand. Either way, the image is unmistakable.
But the occasional drizzle and gray clouds overhead transformed that idyllic scene into something entirely different—moody, mysterious, softened. The sunlit brilliance faded into muted tones, while mist and rain obscured the details. Yet, there was a quiet beauty to this version of the coastline. And in the end, the inclement weather did not diminish our experience, it merely reshaped it.
I’m sure you’ve seen the postcard-perfect photos of the Amalfi Coast—stunning hillside landscapes, vibrant colors, dreamy compositions. Or maybe you’ve been lucky enough to experience it firsthand. Either way, the image is unmistakable.
But the occasional drizzle and gray clouds overhead transformed that idyllic scene into something entirely different—moody, mysterious, softened. The sunlit brilliance faded into muted tones, while mist and rain obscured the details. Yet, there was a quiet beauty to this version of the coastline. And in the end, the inclement weather did not diminish our experience, it merely reshaped it.
We headed east, then south from Pompeii to reach Amalfi, where we stopped for a walk around the town. From Manuella, we learned that this maritime town, located halfway along the Amalfi Drive, once rivaled Pisa, Genoa, and Venice in naval trade with the East. Founded as a trading post in 339 CE, Amalfi became a center for innovation—its sailors were among the first to introduce the compass for navigation and in the 13th century Amalfi became one of the first places in Europe to produce paper.
Like other small towns in Europe, the streets were narrow, winding, and full of charm—lined with colorful Mediterranean buildings, quaint shops, and cafes that created a lively yet intimate atmosphere. And since many of the streets were pedestrian-only, Debra and I could stroll through town without the distraction of cars. And that was what we did during the hour we spent in Amalfi.
Like other small towns in Europe, the streets were narrow, winding, and full of charm—lined with colorful Mediterranean buildings, quaint shops, and cafes that created a lively yet intimate atmosphere. And since many of the streets were pedestrian-only, Debra and I could stroll through town without the distraction of cars. And that was what we did during the hour we spent in Amalfi.
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First, we browsed the boutiques, art galleries, and gift shops along the streets you see in the photos above—mostly window shopping, though Debra and I couldn’t resist picking up a trinket or two as keepsakes from this quaint town. The rain made the streets slick—the surface, whatever it was made of, was slippery under our steps—so we treaded carefully as we explored Amalfi.
We wandered through one street, then another, until we arrived at Piazza del Duomo, the vibrant heart of Amalfi. It serves, Manuella shared, as the town’s central gathering place. It is also home to the magnificent Cathedral of Saint Andrew, dedicated to one of Jesus’ apostles and the patron saint of Amalfi. His relics, brought to Amalfi from Constantinople in 1065, rest in a sacred crypt within the cathedral.
We wandered through one street, then another, until we arrived at Piazza del Duomo, the vibrant heart of Amalfi. It serves, Manuella shared, as the town’s central gathering place. It is also home to the magnificent Cathedral of Saint Andrew, dedicated to one of Jesus’ apostles and the patron saint of Amalfi. His relics, brought to Amalfi from Constantinople in 1065, rest in a sacred crypt within the cathedral.
Originally built in the 9th century, the cathedral evolved over the centuries as it was renovated and expanded, merging Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, and Arab-Norman architectural styles. I counted 62 steps as I climbed the grand staircase, leading to a pair of bronze doors forged in Constantinople in 1065. The doors—the oldest of their kind in Italy, I read—featured intricate depictions of Christ, the Virgin Mary, Saint Andrew, and Saint Peter.
The cathedral’s architecture was nothing short of stunning!
Regrettably, we didn’t have time to step inside—a shame, as Manuella had vividly described its golden accents, frescoes, and exquisite marble work. Perhaps another time.
Debra had lingered at the base of the staircase, and when I rejoined her, I pointed out a turret perched high on a hill high above the cathedral.
The cathedral’s architecture was nothing short of stunning!
Regrettably, we didn’t have time to step inside—a shame, as Manuella had vividly described its golden accents, frescoes, and exquisite marble work. Perhaps another time.
Debra had lingered at the base of the staircase, and when I rejoined her, I pointed out a turret perched high on a hill high above the cathedral.
“I wonder what it is?” she mused.
Fortunately, with my ever-reliable portal to the internet near at hand—my mobile phone—we didn’t have to wonder for long. A few quick keystrokes revealed its identify: Torre dello Ziro, a keep of the castle of Scalella. While scholars could not agree on the date it was constructed, records indicated it was renovated and restored several times in the 13th and 14th centuries.
Then I read an intriguing piece of history, which I revealed to Debra: Giovanna of Aragon, a noblewoman from the 16th century, had been imprisoned in the keep and, according to legend, she met a grim fate there—she was executed for the crime of marrying beneath her station after her noble husband died.
“Pretty strict marriage laws back then,” I said with a chuckle.
I checked my watch—it was a quarter past three. Manuella had asked us to reboard the bus by 3:30.
As we made our way back, we paused for one last photo op: a picture of Debra on Via Lungomare dei Cavalieri, a beautiful seafront promenade with scenic views of the Mediterranean Sea.
Fortunately, with my ever-reliable portal to the internet near at hand—my mobile phone—we didn’t have to wonder for long. A few quick keystrokes revealed its identify: Torre dello Ziro, a keep of the castle of Scalella. While scholars could not agree on the date it was constructed, records indicated it was renovated and restored several times in the 13th and 14th centuries.
Then I read an intriguing piece of history, which I revealed to Debra: Giovanna of Aragon, a noblewoman from the 16th century, had been imprisoned in the keep and, according to legend, she met a grim fate there—she was executed for the crime of marrying beneath her station after her noble husband died.
“Pretty strict marriage laws back then,” I said with a chuckle.
I checked my watch—it was a quarter past three. Manuella had asked us to reboard the bus by 3:30.
As we made our way back, we paused for one last photo op: a picture of Debra on Via Lungomare dei Cavalieri, a beautiful seafront promenade with scenic views of the Mediterranean Sea.
Our bus traced the coastline from Amalfi to Salerno—less than an hour’s drive—while we marveled at the scenery unfolding before us. Along the way, we caught sight of Erchie, a fishing village tucked into a secluded corner of the Amalfi Coast.
As we approached the port, I turned to Debra with a smile. “Well, hon, what did you think of Amalfi and the Amalfi Coast?”
“Even with the rain, I absolutely loved it!” she exclaimed. “The town was charming—small, picturesque, and easy to explore. And that coastal drive? It was terrifying at times, especially on those blind curves. But our driver was excellent, and the scenery was beautiful. Yes, it was just as I imagined.”
And that was our day—an adventure packed with history, unforgettable views, and memories that lingered long after our journey ended!
Next, after a full day at sea, we arrived in Athens, the capital of and largest city in Greece. I can’t wait to share our experiences with you in my next story.
“Even with the rain, I absolutely loved it!” she exclaimed. “The town was charming—small, picturesque, and easy to explore. And that coastal drive? It was terrifying at times, especially on those blind curves. But our driver was excellent, and the scenery was beautiful. Yes, it was just as I imagined.”
And that was our day—an adventure packed with history, unforgettable views, and memories that lingered long after our journey ended!
Next, after a full day at sea, we arrived in Athens, the capital of and largest city in Greece. I can’t wait to share our experiences with you in my next story.