In July 2025, Debra and I embarked on a grand voyage along the coast of Alaska, a two-week cruise aboard Crystal Serenity. We sailed from Vancouver to Seward and back, with port stops in Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway, Sitka, and Icy Strait Point, with a transit through the wild landscape of Hubbard Glacier. We had the time of our lives!
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our voyage.
This story, part of a series, is about our day at Icy Strait Point.
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our voyage.
This story, part of a series, is about our day at Icy Strait Point.
Sitka, Alaska (July 14, 2024) There was truth in the old adage, The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry. Case in point: Debra and I had booked an immersive experience, In Alaska’s Wildest Kitchen, that started midmorning. The brochure said:
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Discover the secrets of local fishing, preserving, and cooking methods that set Alaska seafood apart from the rest. Witness an expert filleting demonstration and get ready to grill your very own catch-of-the-day over our aromatic alder-wood grill.
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My mouth watered when I read these words (and again when I typed them for you!).
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Unfortunately, Mother Earth didn’t get the memo. The weather was absolutely dreary, with a heavy dose of rain all morning and into the early afternoon, temperatures that hovered in the low 50s, and a stiff breeze from the southeast. This was the scene we saw as we peered through our cabin’s sliding glass door early in the morning.
Not at all inviting, right? |
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“I don’t want to go out in this,” Debra said.
And neither did I.
So, we stayed aboard Crystal Serenity and crossed our fingers for better weather when we visited Icy Strait Point on the return leg of our cruise.
(Spoiler Alert: All was not lost this day!)
And neither did I.
So, we stayed aboard Crystal Serenity and crossed our fingers for better weather when we visited Icy Strait Point on the return leg of our cruise.
(Spoiler Alert: All was not lost this day!)
Debra and I busied ourselves aboard the ship, and as it turned out, we had plenty of company—it seemed that more than half of the passengers were like minded about the weather. Our onboard activities weren’t meaningful—I worked out, we read, and then we had lunch—so I don’t have anything substantive to share with you.
(Yawn!)
With five hours until the ‘all aboard’ time, I wondered what we might do all afternoon.
I didn’t have to wonder long, though, as the morning’s heavy rain gave way to intermittent light rain by midafternoon—light enough, that is, so I could disembark for a short walk about the nearby grounds.
And that was what I did.
Before I tell you what I saw, allow me to share a bit about Icy Strait Point with you.
Icy Strait Point is a Tlingit-owned and operated port in Hoonah, Alaska. The town of Hoonah, which was founded in the 19th century and incorporated in 1946, is the largest community of Tlingit people in Alaska.
Wow! I remember thinking when I first learned this fact. The largest Tlingit community in Alaska!!
And then my bubble burst as the total population of Hoonah, which is mostly Tlingit, was just over 900 people.
Largest, it appeared, was a relative term.
By the way, Tlingit people, who migrated from Asia 10,000 to 12,000 years ago, are indigenous to the Pacific Northwest region of North America. They are well-known for their skills in carving and weaving, “and their art and artifacts…are highly prized today.”
As a destination, Icy Strait Point is more like a cruise line’s private island, where (as one blogger wrote) “everything has been carefully created to entice you to spend money.” This isn’t a dig, mind you, as everything you can do here—and there’s plenty to do, as Icy Strait Point is known for its natural beauty, wildlife viewing, and cultural experiences—is authentic Alaskan.
I had a taste of this a year back when I visited Icy Strait Point on a Princess cruise with my daughter. But that was then and this was now.
“So, Howard, what DID you do?”
Fair question, and I’m glad you asked.
The first thing I did was hop aboard the complimentary green Transporter Gondola for a five-minute ride to the other side, meaning, from Wilderness Landing, where cruise ships dock, to the Adventure Center, where there are restaurants, cultural exhibits, a museum, and some activities. The Transporter is not a thrill ride—not even close. Rather, it’s more about moving people from Point A to Point B (and Point B to Point A, as it runs both ways).
(Yawn!)
With five hours until the ‘all aboard’ time, I wondered what we might do all afternoon.
I didn’t have to wonder long, though, as the morning’s heavy rain gave way to intermittent light rain by midafternoon—light enough, that is, so I could disembark for a short walk about the nearby grounds.
And that was what I did.
Before I tell you what I saw, allow me to share a bit about Icy Strait Point with you.
Icy Strait Point is a Tlingit-owned and operated port in Hoonah, Alaska. The town of Hoonah, which was founded in the 19th century and incorporated in 1946, is the largest community of Tlingit people in Alaska.
Wow! I remember thinking when I first learned this fact. The largest Tlingit community in Alaska!!
And then my bubble burst as the total population of Hoonah, which is mostly Tlingit, was just over 900 people.
Largest, it appeared, was a relative term.
By the way, Tlingit people, who migrated from Asia 10,000 to 12,000 years ago, are indigenous to the Pacific Northwest region of North America. They are well-known for their skills in carving and weaving, “and their art and artifacts…are highly prized today.”
As a destination, Icy Strait Point is more like a cruise line’s private island, where (as one blogger wrote) “everything has been carefully created to entice you to spend money.” This isn’t a dig, mind you, as everything you can do here—and there’s plenty to do, as Icy Strait Point is known for its natural beauty, wildlife viewing, and cultural experiences—is authentic Alaskan.
I had a taste of this a year back when I visited Icy Strait Point on a Princess cruise with my daughter. But that was then and this was now.
“So, Howard, what DID you do?”
Fair question, and I’m glad you asked.
The first thing I did was hop aboard the complimentary green Transporter Gondola for a five-minute ride to the other side, meaning, from Wilderness Landing, where cruise ships dock, to the Adventure Center, where there are restaurants, cultural exhibits, a museum, and some activities. The Transporter is not a thrill ride—not even close. Rather, it’s more about moving people from Point A to Point B (and Point B to Point A, as it runs both ways).
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When I stepped off the gondola, I headed to nearby Keet Plaza, a lovely spot from which to see a giant killer whale—an orca. Be advised: It wasn’t real. Rather, it was a statue of an orca gifted by Norwegian Cruise Line in 2021.
There was a plaque on the base of the sculpture with this dedication: Keet stands as a reminder of legendary moments in Icy Strait Point’s history. Breeching forward over Brown Bear Bay, he welcomes fisherman home and world travelers to Hoonah, Alaska. |
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Keet—a word that comes from the Tlingit word for orca—was sculpted by “acclaimed artist and conservationist” Robert Wyland, best known for more than 100 Whaling Walls, large outdoor murals that featured life-size whales and other sea life.
That would be something to see, I thought when I read the blurb about Wyland.
That would be something to see, I thought when I read the blurb about Wyland.
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There was a museum and exhibits about the salmon cannery that once occupied this site, but neither held much interest for me, so I ended my walkabout in a small cemetery where the most prominent grave was for Captain Paul E. Dybdahl, Sr.
Born in Trondheim, Norway, Dybdahl was the tender captain of the Point Sophia and watchman during winters. He died in 1978, an “Alaskan Pioneer,” at the age of 85. “Yes,” is the answer to your question. Those are coins—lots and lots of coins—atop Dybdahl’s grave. This is an age-old practice, especially for military service members, to show someone has visited and paid their respects. |
I was back aboard the Serenity at a quarter past four, glad to be out of the damp weather but pleased I was able to spend an hour or two on land at Icy Strait Point.
My time ashore was purposely lowkey to better ensure I’d have plenty of energy for our next port of call, Sitka, where Debra and I booked a three-part excursion that featured bears, raptors, and a historical park. I look forward to sharing our experiences with you in my next story.