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Lisbon on a Plate: Tastes & Sips to Savor

5/4/2025

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In February 2025, Jill and I journeyed to Lisbon, a four-day daughter-father getaway, to delve into the city's rich heritage, explore its iconic landmarks, uncover its fascinating history, and savor its vibrant cuisine. We had a wonderful time!

Click 
HERE to read a short introduction to our trip.
​

This story, part of a series, captures our unforgettable evening, as we savored
 refreshing drinks and indulged in delectable bites during a mesmerizing food tour in the heart of Lisbon! 

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Lisbon, Portugal (March 24, 2025) Jill and I found ourselves at a delightful crossroads, debating the perfect foodie experience—should we immerse ourselves in a hands-on Portuguese cooking class or savor the flavors of Lisbon on a food and wine tour. Ultimately, we picked Undiscovered Lisbon, voted the #1 food tour in Portugal.

I was thrilled we chose it, as it turned out to be THE most memorable food tour I’ve been on, and with every bite and sip, I was reminded why this tour held the top spot.


Just a hunch, but I bet you’ll be drooling over the flavorful bites and refreshing sips long before our tour wraps up!


We met our guide, Gabi, at Praca dos Restauradores—Park of the Restorers—a site that celebrates Portugal’s restoration of independence in 1640, after six decades under Spanish rule. I wrote about this historic square in Lisbon: A City Center Tour.

We were a small group by design—eight of us, mostly from the States—to ensure a more tailored experience, including ready access to smaller, more intimate eateries. 

Make your way into the heart of Lisbon and discover the history and local cuisine in two of the city’s most vibrant neighborhoods, Baixi and Mouraria. Escape the tourist crowds and experience the taverns, shops, and traditional restaurants loved by Lisbon locals.
~ Eating Europe, a curator of immersive culinary experiences
“I’ll take you to five hidden gems,” Gabi announced with a confident smile. “Each spot is family-run, deeply loved by locals, and untouched by the tourist crowds.”

Gabi was passionate, and his energy was captivating.

“You’ll taste traditional Portuguese dishes and sip local beers and wines, and along the way I’ll share something of our city’s history and culture with you.”

He shared more than “something,” as he possessed a wealth of knowledge, which he freely shared.
​
“One thing I can say with absolute certainty—no one will leave my tour hungry, either for food or for stories.”


Gabi was right on both counts. Our epicurean journey was nothing short of a tour de force—a visual delight for my eyes, savory aromas for my nose, and a harmony of flavors for my palate, with a fascinating story at every stop!    

Speaking of stops...
Ginjinha Popular
​Our foodie adventure began at this casual eatery, where we feasted on two standout delights: Bifanas, Portugal’s iconic pork sandwich, and fireman chorizo, a unique dish of flambéed sausage.

Ginjinha Popular, which opened in 1971, “was recently designated as an Establishment of Historical and Cultural Interest,” Gabi said. “This designation celebrates businesses that preserve Lisbon’s culture and heritage.” Fewer than 100 businesses have been honored this way. 

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The thinly sliced pork, which was marinated in a flavorful blend of spices, was tender and mouthwatering, while the flame-grilled sausage, with its smoky char, was juicy and bursting with flavor. I paired these delectable foods with a short glass of Super Bock, one of Portugal’s most iconic and refreshing beers.

We were off to a delicious start!

Catinho do Azia
We ascended a stone staircase to reach our next stop, a highly acclaimed Mozambican restaurant celebrated for its rich cultural heritage.

“I know what you’re thinking,” Gabi said. “What’s the connection to Portugal? The answer is, Mozambique is rooted in our history.”

Portugal, we learned, was one of the longest-lived colonial empires in history, spanning nearly six centuries from the 1400s to 1900s, and its colonial conquest, which stretched around the globe, began in North Africa.


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“This led to a significant cultural exchange, including the world of cuisine,” Gabi added. “But you will see—or rather, you will taste—Mozambican food has its own distinct identity.”

Our introduction to Mozambican cuisine featured a popular snack: two triangular pastries, one filled with chicken and the other with pork. Known as samosas, these treats were not exclusive to Mozambique. However, the way they were prepared and their bold flavors set them apart from others.


The samosas were served with a fiery dip, Piri Piri, which Gabi described as “the perfect fusion of both culinary traditions.” I mustered the courage to try a small taste, but the intensity of Piri Piri—which included an extremely potent chili pepper native to Africa—was too much for me.

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I favored the pork, but truth be told, I enjoyed both samosas—especially paired with a glass of Sagres, a pale lager named after a town in the Algarve region in the southernmost part of Portugal. 
Tasquinha Canto do Fado
Up next was a warm and welcoming restaurant, where nighttime diners were serenaded by the soulful melodies of Fado.
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“Fado,” Gabi began, “is a traditional genre of Portuguese music that is deeply expressive and melancholic, often about the bittersweet nature of life.”  

We were seated at a long table, beneath a whimsical sardine suspended from the ceiling.


“Fado originated in the early 19th century,” Gabi continued, “in the working-class neighborhoods of Lisbon. It was a form of urban folk music, with influences from other cultures.”

We arrived too early for that night’s performance, set to begin at 8PM. However, on our final night in Lisbon, Jill and I had dinner at Fado ao Carmo, where we enjoyed the haunting artistry of fado.   

​“While we have beer, I highly recommend you try the house wine. It’s a vinho tinto, a delightful red wine crafted from grapes grown in a family-owned vineyard near Lisbon.”
​
When in Rome…or Lisbon, I thought.

I don’t have much of a nose for wine, but I detected a hint of berries and a touch of spice. It turned out to be a wonderful choice!  

Our first dish was octopus salad, which featured tender pieces of tentacles prepared with onions, roasted red peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, and cilantro. It was beautifully dressed with olive oil, a squeeze of lime juice, and just the right touch of salt and pepper. 
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While I’ve had octopus before—the most unforgettable being the grilled octopus I savored when Debra and I visited Mykonos—I never saw it prepared this way. Now, salada de polvo—octopus salad—crafted by Tasquinha Canto do Fado, was just as memorable.

“Your second dish,” said Gabi,” is Bacalhau a Bras. It is a classic Portuguese favorite prepared with shredded salted cod mixed with onions, fried potatoes, and creamy scrambled eggs. I’m confident you will thoroughly enjoy it.”

​What’s not to enjoy,
I thought. It sounds like comfort food.

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Bacalhau a Bras was my third encounter with cod in just two days, and without a doubt, this was the standout dish of the three. 

No question about it, the octopus salad and Bacalhau a Bras were the crowning dishes of the tour for me!

Sao Jorge
As we neared our fourth stop, Gabi turned to us and said, “You have two options: you may take the elevator or climb the steps. Either way, I’ll meet you at the top, in front of the restaurant.”

While a couple of foodies opted for the elevator, I chose to join the hardy few who climbed the steps. And as I climbed, I kept count—one, two three...all the way to one hundred fifteen. With the effort it took (wink wink), I might have burned enough calories to make room for our next culinary adventure.  


Gabi had lined up two dishes. “Both have Portuguese roots,” he said, a twinkle in his eye. “But one might catch you off guard.”

The first dish was a cheeseboard that featured a selection of cheeses—creamy (goat), semi-soft (sheep), and hard (cow) varieties—paired with pumpkin jam.

“In Portugal, we call this jam doce de abobora,” Gabi remarked. “We have a strong tradition of using jams to complement cheeses and desserts, and pumpkin jam is one of the most iconic examples of this.”

The cheeses were okay (in my opinion), but the jam was exceptional!

“Are you ready for the second dish,” Gabi asked. “It’s the one that might just surprise you.”
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Our waitress arrived with cone-shaped metal baskets with what appeared to be golden, deep-fried delights. It was sardine tempura, a dish (tempura, that is) I’ve always associated with Japanese cuisine.

“Tempura traces its origins to Portuguese cooking,” Gabi declared. “It wasn’t until the 16th century that tempura-style frying was introduced to Japan. As you likely know by now, sardines are a staple of our cuisine. Preparing them tempura-style is one of many methods we use.” 

​I found it to be a nice pairing—the slightly briny flavor of sardines combined with the crispy texture of tempura batter. Truly, it was a delightful experience!

“Are you ready for dessert?” Gabi asked. “If so, follow me.”
​Maneigaria
We followed Gabi to our final stop, where we enjoyed Pasteis de Nata, also known as Portuguese egg custard—a rich, creamy egg custard filling nestled in a flaky, buttery pastry shell. 
“This pastry was originally created by monks at the Jeronimos Monastery in Lisbon,” Gabi said. “It was a new baked good they could sell to help support their monastery.”

Pasteis de Nata were undeniably THE most iconic—there’s that word again!—sweet treat in Portugal, and a true emblem of Portuguese culinary heritage. Deelish!!

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And so, our journey of tastes and sips came to an end. It was a thoroughly gratifying way to explore Lisbon’s vibrant food culture, enriched by tales of history and heritage that Gabi wove seamlessly into our experience. 
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Gabi and me
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