Jill and me in Praca dos Restauradores
In February 2025, Jill and I journeyed to Lisbon, a four-day daughter-father getaway, to delve into the city's rich heritage, explore its iconic landmarks, uncover its fascinating history, and savor its vibrant cuisine. We had a wonderful time!
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our trip.
This story, part of a series, chronicles our guided walking tour through the cobblestone streets of Lisbon - an exceptional experience in which we learned about the city's history and culture as we visited many prominent landmarks.
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our trip.
This story, part of a series, chronicles our guided walking tour through the cobblestone streets of Lisbon - an exceptional experience in which we learned about the city's history and culture as we visited many prominent landmarks.
Lisbon, Portugal (February 24, 2025) Jill and I looked at a several tours before we booked Lisbon City Center Tour—The Unmissable Lisbon. Why this tour? First, it had over 19,000 reviews and a five-star rating on TripAdvisor. Second, the itinerary was fantastic—it featured more than a dozen notable landmarks, which made it an ideal introduction to Lisbon. And third, the tour was budget-friendly, costing just a few euros per person, as it was a tip-based experience.
As for #3, I was extremely satisfied with our tour—one of the best walking tours I’ve been on—and tour guide. Belem, who hailed from Chile but lived in Lisbon these past six years, was a treasure trove of information. She generously shared her insights and answered every question asked.
I’ve selected a handful of prominent landmarks—my favorites—to share with you. I hope I’ve done justice to Belem’s account of each.
(For the record, I reconstructed the dialogue from notes, memory, and other sources.)
As for #3, I was extremely satisfied with our tour—one of the best walking tours I’ve been on—and tour guide. Belem, who hailed from Chile but lived in Lisbon these past six years, was a treasure trove of information. She generously shared her insights and answered every question asked.
I’ve selected a handful of prominent landmarks—my favorites—to share with you. I hope I’ve done justice to Belem’s account of each.
(For the record, I reconstructed the dialogue from notes, memory, and other sources.)
Praca dos Restauadores—Restorers Square
|
We met Belem (and a half-dozen fellow tourists who booked this tour) at Praca dos Restauradores, a historic square that commemorates the restoration of Portuguese independence in 1640 after 60 years of Spanish rule.
“The 100-foot-tall obelisk in the center of the square was installed in 1886,” Belem replied in answer to a question I asked. “It is inscribed with the names and dates of battles fought during this war for independence.” She also called our attention to the two bronze figures on opposing sides of the obelisk—Independence, a wing male figure draped in a flag, and Victory, a winged female figure who held a palm in one hand and a laurel wreath in the other. |
|
|
|
Homenagem aos Calceteiros—Homage to Pavers
“This bronze sculpture, which was unveiled in 2006,” Belem began, “pays tribute to the skilled workers—truly, they were artisans—who created our cobblestone pavements. As you can see, one worker is standing with tools in his hand, while the other is kneeling as he prepares to place a cobblestone on the walkway.”
|
One of the enduring features of Lisbon is its cobblestone-paved sidewalks and streets—a hallmark of the city’s charm and cultural identity that dates to the 15th century. Each cobblestone—typically limestone and basalt—is small and hand cut and often arranged in intricate, decorative patterns.
|
Today, most work in cobblestone is about preserving what is there. “It takes incredible patience, skill, and attention to detail,” Belem added, “and the work is physically demanding.” The average salary for a calceteiros—a cobblestone worker—is 1,200 to 1,600 euros per month.
Igreja de Sao Domingos—Church of Saint Dominic
|
The first church on this site was completed in 1241. The present church, which survived the destructive earthquake of 1755, was largely rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1959—and then took 45 years to complete.
“One of the interesting features of this church,” Belen said, “is its fire-scarred interior. It was a deliberate decision to leave it this way as a reminder of the fire and as a symbol of survival, rebirth, and enduring faith.” There is a memorial outside the church—a stone hemisphere with a Star of David, inaugurated in 2008—to honor the thousands of Jews killed during the Lisbon Massacre of 1506, a “tragic event fueled by religious intolerance and fanaticism.” |
|
|
|
Estatue de D. Joao I—Statue of King John I
|
Joao de Aviz, who was king of Portugal from 1385 to 1433, is “celebrated for preserving Portugal’s independence from Castile,” a kingdom on the Iberian Peninsula in the Middle Ages. He was also the founder of a dynasty that ruled Portugal for over two centuries—a period that included Portugal’s “golden age of exploration and expansion.”
“His legacy earned him the titles John the Good and John of Fond Memory,” Belem noted. The statue, created by renowned Portuguese sculptor Leopoldo de Almeida, depicts King John I on horseback—a “symbol of his leadership and significant contributions to Portuguese history,” Belem explained. It was unveiled in 1971. |
Elevador de Santa Justa—Santa Justa Lift
|
This iconic structure, a 147-foot-tall elevator inspired by the Eiffel tower, connects the lower streets of the Baixa district of Lisbon—the city’s central neighborhood—with the higher Bairro Alto neighborhood.
“Not only is it a practical mode of transport,” Belem explained, “but it is a major tourist attraction, as well.” The latter statement was evidenced by the long queue of tourists waiting to ride the lift. How did I know they were tourists? Well, who else would willingly wait 30 minutes just to ride a lift! |
|
The neo-Gothic design was stunning, standing in sharp contrast to the buildings that surrounded it and the classical monuments we had encountered on our tour. The intricate wrought-iron details, which you can see in the left-hand photo below, were a nice touch.
On a side note, we did not wait in line. Instead, we climbed the stone stairway that stood nearby to reach Bairro Alto.
On a side note, we did not wait in line. Instead, we climbed the stone stairway that stood nearby to reach Bairro Alto.
|
|
|
Open-air ruins of the 14th century Carmo Convent
Celeste of the Carnations
We paused near Museu Arqueologico de Carmo—Carmo Archaeological Museum—housed within the ruins of the Carmo Convent. There, Belem recounted the touching tale of Celeste Martins Caeiro, fondly remembered as ‘Celeste of the Carnations.’
“Celeste was a Portuguese pacifist who became a symbol of the Carnation Revolution in 1974,” she began. “On April 25th of that year, right here on the street behind us, Celeste handed red carnations to soldiers during a coup that peacefully overthrew the Estado Novo—the New State. This marked the end of an authoritative regime that had ruled Portugal from 1933 to 1974.”
“Celeste was a Portuguese pacifist who became a symbol of the Carnation Revolution in 1974,” she began. “On April 25th of that year, right here on the street behind us, Celeste handed red carnations to soldiers during a coup that peacefully overthrew the Estado Novo—the New State. This marked the end of an authoritative regime that had ruled Portugal from 1933 to 1974.”
|
Then, Belem showed us this grainy black & white photo—Celeste placing a red carnation in the barrel of a soldier’s rifle on that historic day in 1974.
Celeste, we learned, continued to distribute red carnations at events commemorating the Carnation Revolution throughout her life, until her passing in 2024 at the age of 91. |
|
Arco da Rua Augusta—Rua Augusta Arch
Near the end of our tour, we strolled along Rua Augusta, a bustling pedestrian thoroughfare in the heart of Baixa. It was lined with outdoor cafes, restaurants, and shops—Jill and I returned there to shop and have lunch on our last full day in Lisbon—with several street performers who showcased their talents.
|
When we reached the south end of the street, we passed through Arco da Rua Augusta. “It is a grand triumphal arch that commemorates the city’s reconstruction after the earthquake in 1755,” Belem explained.
Construction began soon after the earthquake, but the arch was not completed until 1873—more than 100 years later. “The arch is adorned with intricate sculptures,” Belem said, “including three symbolic figures that represent Glory, Genius, and Valor.” There were historical figures as well, like the 15th century Portuguese explorer and navigator Vasco da Gama. |
|
“You can climb to the top of the arch, if you’d like,” Belem said. “The panoramic view is breathtaking.”
Perhaps another time, I thought.
Perhaps another time, I thought.
I loved the relaxed pace of our tour and the opportunity to explore a few hidden gems—murals, sculptures, and other such things—alongside many iconic landmarks. And thanks to her captivating storytelling, Belem brought the city’s history and culture vividly to life.
Oh, I almost forgot—I tipped Belem the equivalent cost of a full-priced tour. She certainly earned it!
Oh, I almost forgot—I tipped Belem the equivalent cost of a full-priced tour. She certainly earned it!