Alfama’s Welcome: Our First Look and Tastes

In February 2025, Jill and I journeyed to Lisbon, a four-day daughter-father getaway, to delve into the city's rich heritage, explore its iconic landmarks, uncover its fascinating history, and savor its vibrant cuisine. We had a wonderful time!

Click HERE to read a short introduction to our trip.
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This story, part of a series, chronicles our first look at Alfama, a charming neighborhood with Old-World style...and our first tastes of authentic Portuguese cuisine. 

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Lisbon, Portugal (February 23, 2025) Jill and I hit the ground running as soon as we landed in Lisbon, fresh off a red eye flight from the States—a journey during which neither of us managed a wink of sleep. Our first destination was the majestic National Pantheon. Despite our fatigue, we marveled at its grandeur, and we were captivated by the breathtaking views of Lisbon from its terrace.  

Click HERE to read my story about this white marble masterpiece—its history, architecture, and significance as the final resting place for some of Portugal’s most prominent figures.

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“Time for lunch,” I announced to Jill, glancing at my watch just past noon.

We had a 12:30 reservation at Taberna Sal Grasso, a highly rated restaurant celebrated for its authentic Portuguese cuisine and warm, welcoming service.

Jill and I were among the first patrons to arrive, which gave us a quiet moment to take in the ambience. The décor was charmingly rustic, and the closely spaced tables created an intimate setting. 

Soon after I snapped the right-hand photo above, the restaurant reached its full capacity of 20 patrons or so. The buzz of conversation around us, carried out in many languages—I heard French, Spanish, and German, as well as the Queen’s English—created a vibrant and energetic atmosphere, giving life to this small space.   

There was no need for traditional menus, as everything this restaurant offered—starters, entrees, desserts, drinks—was displayed, in Portuguese and English, on a long chalk board along one wall.

Jill’s the foodie, so she ordered our first meal in Lisbon. Ready for the lineup? Here goes…

A bowl of olives. Cod fritters. Roasted cheese with honey on fresh baked bread. Pork cheek with tomato miga. Beef cheek with sweet potato mash. Saffron rice.  

Oh…and glasses of wine, rose for Jill and red for me.

Our meal was a gastronomical delight that thrilled our tastebuds with every bite!

Jill glanced at her phone as we finished lunch.

“Good news,” she said. “Our apartment is ready, and we can check in whenever we want.”

“Now?” I asked.

“Perfect,” she replied.

And that was what we did…after we paid our bill.

Our apartment was in the heart of Alfama, a charming neighborhood with Old-World style on the eastern edge of Lisbon. It had two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living room, and kitchen, and it was fully equipped and well-maintained.

After we settled in, I said to Jill, “I’m going for a walk. Care to join me?”
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“Thanks, but after 24 hours of travel and sightseeing, I’m ready to kick back for a while.”

I was gone for an hour or so, which was time enough for me to get a feel for Alfama. Narrow, cobblestone streets. Historic architecture. Locals chatting across balconies and in cafes. In a word, Alfama was charming, and I was certain we would love staying there. 

Here are a few of the many photos I snapped. To be honest, I wasn’t sure what to make of the peacock. Was it a pet or was it wild? I never learned (and will never know!).

But I can tell you about the sculpture in the center photo below. That’s St. Vincent, the patron saint of Lisbon. This life-size bronze sculpture stands atop a limestone base at Portas do Sol—Gate of the Sun—an elevated platform with sweeping views of Alfama and the Tagus River. It was a favorite spot of mine—one I came back to many times during our time in Lisbon.

St. Vincent, a 4th century martyr from Spain, is depicted holding a ship and ravens, symbolizing the legend that these birds protected his relics during their journey to Lisbon. The statue was unveiled in May 1940 during the Portuguese World Exhibition held in Lisbon.

On a side note, the weather was picture perfect—mid-60s, slight breeze, mostly sunny. Nothing more required than a long sleeve shirt over a tee.

To you it may feel like mere moments had passed since Jill and I had lunch, but five hours had slipped away. We were bushed, and I was certain we would be fast asleep by nine.

A few minutes to six, I asked Jill, “Ready for dinner?”

“I am,” she replied. “What’s the plan?”

I suggested Casa da Tia Helena, conveniently located just a 10-minute stroll from our apartment.

Jill pulled up the menu on her phone, and after a brief pause, she smiled and said, “It sounds good. Let’s go.”

And with that, we set off.

Jill and I were ready to try a couple of traditional Portuguese dishes, so we ordered sardinhas assadas (grilled sardines) and bacalhau grelhado (grilled cod). Both dishes—quintessential experiences in Lisbon, I had read—came with grilled potatoes and small salads.

“We’ll share,” Jill announced when we ordered.

But when the food came, Jill favored the sardines over the cod, so she ate three sardines to my one and had just a small serving of cod. 

And so ended our first day in Lisbon…a day filled with wonderful moments from start to finish.
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