In July and August 2024, Jill and I journeyed through Iceland, the Land of Fire and Ice. We spent two days in Reykjavik and then sailed around the island on a 7-day cruise aboard the Windstar Star Pride. Iceland, a bucket list cruise, was everything we had hoped for and more!
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our adventure.
This story, part of a series, is about the sights we saw in and outside of Akureyri, Iceland's second largest city.
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our adventure.
This story, part of a series, is about the sights we saw in and outside of Akureyri, Iceland's second largest city.
Jill and me at Goðafoss
Akureyri, Iceland (August 6, 2024) The weather this morning was picture-perfect! The temperature was in the mid-50s, the sky was a deep blue with nary a cloud, there was a slight breeze from the north, and the radiant sun, which shone brightly in the sky, brought out the vibrant colors of the lush landscape.
It was 7AM, and I stood topside as Star Pride navigated the last few miles on Eyjafjörður—in English, Island Fjord. This is one of the longest fjords in Iceland, about 37 miles from its head to its foot, where it empties into the North Atlantic Ocean.
Ahead was Akureyri (pronounced ‘ah-ker-air-ee’), nicknamed the ‘Capital of the North.’ This city, the second largest urban area in Iceland with a population of 19,000, serves as the commercial and cultural hub for the country’s Northeast Region.
It was 7AM, and I stood topside as Star Pride navigated the last few miles on Eyjafjörður—in English, Island Fjord. This is one of the longest fjords in Iceland, about 37 miles from its head to its foot, where it empties into the North Atlantic Ocean.
Ahead was Akureyri (pronounced ‘ah-ker-air-ee’), nicknamed the ‘Capital of the North.’ This city, the second largest urban area in Iceland with a population of 19,000, serves as the commercial and cultural hub for the country’s Northeast Region.
I LOVED the scenery that surrounded the fjord. The lowlands along the coast gave way to rolling hills and then steep mountains, and all were painted in a palette of variegated colors of green, with a recent snowfall still evident in many of the high peaks. Here and there, I spotted farms and dense forests of birch and larch, the latter a rarity in Iceland where only two percent of the country’s surface is covered by trees.
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And another feature of the landscape caught my eye—a hydrothermal vent that discharged geothermally heated water, which cascaded from a sheer cliff of volcanic rock into the fjord below. The water that rose from deep beneath the earth’s crust could be as hot as 240 degrees Fahrenheit, so I wasn’t surprised to see a cloud of steam when it met the 50-degree water in Eyjafjörður.
Two cruise ships were already docked when Star Pride sailed into the Port of Akureyri—Holland America’s Volendam and Viking’s Mars. The three ships carried more than 2,500 passengers—great news, I was certain, for restaurants, shop owners, tour operators, and other locals who depended on foreign tourist dollars. |
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Jill and I booked an excursion for early afternoon—an outing to Mývatn (pronounced mi-vahtn) Nature Baths to relax in soothing waters heated by geothermal energy and Goðafoss (pronounced go-the-foss) to see the ‘Waterfall of the Gods.’ I’ll share our experiences at these landmark attractions with you in a bit, but first, please join me on my morning walk through town center.
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Art cannot be confined to the inner sanctum of a museum or gallery. It is always right there before our eyes, flowing around us; it is in everything our senses touch—even though we may not always realize this.
~ Visit Akureyri
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There are many outdoor works of art in Akureyri—more than 30—including murals, sculptures, and other installations designed and created (mostly) by renowned artists from Iceland. I spotted a handful along the route I followed, including these:
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Kærleikuras
This sculpture, made of steel and installed in 1993, stood in a parking lot near the ship. It was rusted by the elements, and therefore not the prettiest sculpture I saw, but I was charmed by its name—Kærleikuras, which translates to ‘Path of Love.’ This sculpture was created by artist Jóhann Ingimarsson (1926 – 2016). He said, “The two rings symbolize love and bonding…and the rod symbolizes the afterlife.” In the Official Travel Guide to Akureyri, I read, “…no artist, neither living or dead, can boast of having more outdoor works of art around Akureyri than Noi,” as he was affectionally known. |
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Sia
There were many colorful murals on Hafnar Street, but it was this black and white mural of a young girl, which graced the side of a four-story building, that caught and captured my attention. Later, as I stared at this photo, I realized it was her eyes that drew me in. This mural, painted by artist Guido van Helten during the Akureyri culture festival in 2014, is a portrait of an actress named Sia who passed away in 2010. It was based on a photograph of her in the town’s archives that was said to “capture a nostalgic and sentimental moment.” |
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Red Heart
During the financial crise of 2008, city officials installed this red heart to boost citizen’s morale—a not-too-subtle reminder of “what really matters.” The red-heart campaign was more than a single sculpture, though, and perhaps the most prominent display of red hearts was on traffic lights. Instead of a solid red circle for ‘Stop,’ traffic signials throughout Akureyri sported a glowing red heart. How cute is that I thought the first time I saw it. And that brings me to… |
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Grýla
I came across this bigger than life size troll outside the Viking Store, a one-stop shop for souvenirs. What gives, I wondered. The answer was simple: Trolls and other mythical creatures, both enchanting and whimsical, were celebrated in many forms throughout the city as a reminder of stories, from ancient sagas to contemporary tales, passed down from one generation to the next. Based on what I later read, I believe this is Grýla, an "ogress with an appetite for the flesh of mischievous children, whom she cooks in a large pot." A lovely bedtime story, don't you think?! |
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I’ll end this part of my story with a look at The Church of Akureyri, also known as The Church of Matthías Jochumsson—a Lutheran poet and clergyman (1835-1920) who wrote the national anthem of Iceland and served as pastor of this church.
The church, located on a hill above the center of town, was designed by Gudjon Samuelsson and consecrated in 1940. The twin geometric towers were “inspired by the natural rock formations of Iceland’s Svartifoss,” a waterfall in Vatnajökull National Park.
This was the third or fourth church I visited in Iceland; all were Lutheran, which is the dominate religion in Iceland. While these churches varied in architectural and interior design, they had this in common: Their appearance was simple and austere, a reflection, I read, of the Lutheran emphasis on “worship and sacraments rather than on elaborate decorations.”
And so, it was with The Church of Akureyri...with a few notable exceptions, including 17 beautiful stained-glass windows and a baptismal font made of white marble with an altar piece above it taken from the first church in Akureyri, which was built in 1863. There was also a handmade model of a sailing ship that hung from the ceiling, a gift to the church in memory of the Reverand Friðrik J. Rafnar (1868-1961).
This was the third or fourth church I visited in Iceland; all were Lutheran, which is the dominate religion in Iceland. While these churches varied in architectural and interior design, they had this in common: Their appearance was simple and austere, a reflection, I read, of the Lutheran emphasis on “worship and sacraments rather than on elaborate decorations.”
And so, it was with The Church of Akureyri...with a few notable exceptions, including 17 beautiful stained-glass windows and a baptismal font made of white marble with an altar piece above it taken from the first church in Akureyri, which was built in 1863. There was also a handmade model of a sailing ship that hung from the ceiling, a gift to the church in memory of the Reverand Friðrik J. Rafnar (1868-1961).
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I was back onboard Star Pride at 11AM—in time for an early lunch with Jill before we left for Mývatn and Goðafoss.
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There is hardly a better way to enjoy Iceland’s plentiful vistas of lava and moss than a visit to Mývatn Nature Baths, a tastefully designed complex that offers a relaxing dip in clouds of steam rising from below the earth’s surface. Then, depart for Goðafoss, where you will have time to take photos and appreciate the beauty of the falls.
~ Windstar Cruises
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Jill and I joined 40 or so fellow passengers from Star Pride on a 90-minute drive east along Route 1, AKA Ring Road—so named because it circles the country as it connects most of the major towns and cities. This drive was a wonderful way to experience Iceland’s diverse landscape—a landscape that continued to surprise me because of how lush it was.
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It was 2PM when we reached Mývatn Nature Baths, which proved to be an oasis of relaxation.
“You’ll have 90 minutes to enjoy a unique geothermal bathing experience,” our guide said. “The water, which ranges from 36 to 40 degrees Celsius, is rich in minerals known to have many skin benefits.”
Jill nudged me and whispered, “What’s the temperature in Fahrenheit?”
I knew the formula—F = (9/5 x C) + 32 (okay…I can be a bit of a nerd!)—so I plugged numbers into the calculator on my phone.
“That would be 97 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit,” I answered.
“Sounds heavenly,” Jill said with a smile.
Yes, it was heavenly, to be sure…but only because the hot geothermal waters that fed the nature baths—around 266 degrees Fahrenheit—were mixed with cold water to a temperature range our skin would tolerate.
Jill nudged me and whispered, “What’s the temperature in Fahrenheit?”
I knew the formula—F = (9/5 x C) + 32 (okay…I can be a bit of a nerd!)—so I plugged numbers into the calculator on my phone.
“That would be 97 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit,” I answered.
“Sounds heavenly,” Jill said with a smile.
Yes, it was heavenly, to be sure…but only because the hot geothermal waters that fed the nature baths—around 266 degrees Fahrenheit—were mixed with cold water to a temperature range our skin would tolerate.
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Mývatn Nature Baths, which is owned and operated by a local company, opened in June 2004. The facility includes two large bathing pools, a smaller hot tub, and steam baths, as well as a reception area, changing rooms, showers, and a restaurant.
(In case you wondered, Jarðböðin—the word on the sign in the photo to the right—is Icelandic for ‘Earth Baths.’) |
It didn’t take long for Jill and me to change into our bathing suits and wade into the one of the two large pools. This one, we soon learned, was the cooler of the two. The water temperature was 97 degrees, about the same as bath water. It was mjög þægilegt, as they say in Iceland—very comfortable!
From this photo, it might look like the water was deep, but it wasn’t, as we were seated on a ledge below the surface. When I stood—I’m 5’ 7”—the water came to my waist.
We walked to the far end of the pool, where I turned and snapped this pic of the restaurant and changing rooms.
We walked to the far end of the pool, where I turned and snapped this pic of the restaurant and changing rooms.
“Jill, I’m ready to turn up the heat,” I said with a wink. “Care to join me in the other pool.”
“You lead, I’ll follow,” she answered.
Here’s a funny thing about the two pools: There was no barrier between them, yet the one we left was cooler than the one we entered by five degrees or so. It could be that they pumped less cold water into the warmer pool or more cold water into the cooler one. Either way, there was a noticeable difference.
The second pool had a nice feature—a shower head made from an upright pipe with a u-shaped bend at the end, from which warmer water, yet, poured out.
“You lead, I’ll follow,” she answered.
Here’s a funny thing about the two pools: There was no barrier between them, yet the one we left was cooler than the one we entered by five degrees or so. It could be that they pumped less cold water into the warmer pool or more cold water into the cooler one. Either way, there was a noticeable difference.
The second pool had a nice feature—a shower head made from an upright pipe with a u-shaped bend at the end, from which warmer water, yet, poured out.
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It was ‘yndislegur’—wonderful!
Here I am in the smaller hot tub, where the sign said Varúð!—Caution! Why? Because the water temperature was 106 degrees Fahrenheit. Still comfortable!
Here I am in the smaller hot tub, where the sign said Varúð!—Caution! Why? Because the water temperature was 106 degrees Fahrenheit. Still comfortable!
Ninety minutes sounded like a long time when we first arrived, but it flew by in a heartbeat.
“Time to shower and change,” Jill announced.
I don’t know whether the minerals and heated waters healed whatever might have ailed me, but I can tell you this unique Icelandic experience was magical—far removed from my everyday life—and one of the highlights of my trip!
We backtracked one hour on Route 1 and reached Goðafoss about half past four.
“There’s a paved walk that leads to two observation decks—one in front of the falls and another overlooking the falls,” said our guide. “And if you are more adventurous, there’s a rocky trail that goes down to the river. Please be careful, and please be back on the bus by 5:30.”
Jill and I followed the paved walk to the first observation decks, where we had this lovely view of Goðafoss.
“Time to shower and change,” Jill announced.
I don’t know whether the minerals and heated waters healed whatever might have ailed me, but I can tell you this unique Icelandic experience was magical—far removed from my everyday life—and one of the highlights of my trip!
We backtracked one hour on Route 1 and reached Goðafoss about half past four.
“There’s a paved walk that leads to two observation decks—one in front of the falls and another overlooking the falls,” said our guide. “And if you are more adventurous, there’s a rocky trail that goes down to the river. Please be careful, and please be back on the bus by 5:30.”
Jill and I followed the paved walk to the first observation decks, where we had this lovely view of Goðafoss.
“It reminds me of Niagara Falls,” Jill said.
“Jill, that was 40 years ago. How can you possibly remember?”
“Oh, I remember,” she replied. “We took a boat ride on the Maid of the Mist to have an up-close view of the falls. The views were breathtaking, and the roar of the falls was deafening. Oh…and I remember the raincoats they gave us stunk sooooo bad from everyone’s BO!”
Jill, of course, was right. Here a couple of photos from that day.
“Jill, that was 40 years ago. How can you possibly remember?”
“Oh, I remember,” she replied. “We took a boat ride on the Maid of the Mist to have an up-close view of the falls. The views were breathtaking, and the roar of the falls was deafening. Oh…and I remember the raincoats they gave us stunk sooooo bad from everyone’s BO!”
Jill, of course, was right. Here a couple of photos from that day.
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Goðafoss, among the most popular waterfalls in Iceland, is sometimes referred to as a ‘mini-Niagara.’ Why? Well, if I had to say, it was because both are shaped like a horseshoe. But this was where the similarity ended because:
Still, the Waterfall of the Gods was impressive…especially when I stood at water’s edge, with the mist in my face and a roar in my ears! Yep, I did—I followed the ‘adventurous’ trail down and crossed rocks and boulders to stand at the edge of Skjálfandafljót river, face to face with the mighty Goðafoss.
- Goðafoss is a single-drop waterfall, while Niagara Falls has three drops—Horseshoe Falls, American Falls, and Bridal Veil Falls.
- At 39 feet tall and 100 feet wide, Goðafoss is much, much smaller than Niagara Falls, which is 167 feet tall and 3,400 feet wide.
Still, the Waterfall of the Gods was impressive…especially when I stood at water’s edge, with the mist in my face and a roar in my ears! Yep, I did—I followed the ‘adventurous’ trail down and crossed rocks and boulders to stand at the edge of Skjálfandafljót river, face to face with the mighty Goðafoss.
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I never got this close, I thought, when I visited Niagara Falls—even on the Maid of the Mist!
As an aside, Goðafoss is ‘geologically young,’ which is to say it is relatively new in Earth’s history—likely formed by glacial flooding and seismic activity five to ten thousand years ago.
I wondered where the name Goðafoss came from. Luckily, I didn’t have to wonder long, as I read this on a storyboard:
As an aside, Goðafoss is ‘geologically young,’ which is to say it is relatively new in Earth’s history—likely formed by glacial flooding and seismic activity five to ten thousand years ago.
I wondered where the name Goðafoss came from. Luckily, I didn’t have to wonder long, as I read this on a storyboard:
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History tells us that in the year 1000, Þorgeir, chieftain of the pagans and Lawspeaker of the Althing, was entrusted with the momentous task of deciding whether Icelanders should adopt the Christian faith. When his decision was made and formally accepted, he went home and threw his statues of the pagan Goð—gods—into the waterfall.
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And that was how this waterfall got its name!
In a land of 10,000 waterfalls, it would be easy to dismiss Goðafoss as ‘just another one.’ But it wasn’t. The rugged landscape, the power of the waters, and the falls itself, were magnificent—more so than any falls I saw on my journey through Iceland!
Jill and I were back aboard Star Pride at quarter past six. Less than an hour later, after we showered and dressed for the evening, the maître d’ at Amphora seated us for dinner.
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I felt bold, so I ordered two starters—a tomato & watermelon salad and a bowl of coconut clam chowder. To be honest, both tasted a bit weird.
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But I LOVED my entrée—an eight-ounce beef filet steak mignon with onion rings and broccolini—and enjoyed a caramelized lemon tart for dessert!
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Afterwards, we listened to music from the 70s and 80s in Compass Rose. It was a nice way to end a delightful day in Akureyri.
Star Pride sailed overnight in calm seas to our next port of call, Ísafjörður, located in the northwest of Iceland. I look forward to sharing our experiences with you in my next story. Stay tuned!
Star Pride sailed overnight in calm seas to our next port of call, Ísafjörður, located in the northwest of Iceland. I look forward to sharing our experiences with you in my next story. Stay tuned!