In March 2016, Debra and I cruised along the Baja Peninsula and Sea of Cortez aboard the Ruby Princess. We visited five ports - San Diego, Cabo San Lucas, Puerto Vallarta, Loreto, and La Paz. We had a wonderful time from start to finish!
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our holiday in Mexico.
This story, part of a series, chronicles our adventure in Loreto.
Click HERE to read a short introduction to our holiday in Mexico.
This story, part of a series, chronicles our adventure in Loreto.
Debra and me at Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó
Loreto, Mexico (March 5, 2016) People travel for a variety of fascinating reasons—some, for example, seek rest and relaxation, while others chase adventure or thrills. But what drives Debra and me is the magic of discovery—opportunities to indulge our curiosity about cultures, histories, and landscapes we know little about. Loreto, which neither of us had visited before, fit the bill nicely.
This charming town—renowned for its rich history and breathtaking natural beauty—is nestled along the picturesque coast of the Sea of Cortez in Baja California Sur, roughly 220 nautical miles north of La Paz, our previous port of call. While Loreto is a popular tourist destination, it stands apart from bustling tourist meccas like Cancun and Cabo San Lucas. This, too, is part of its charm, especially for travelers who prefer a more relaxed and serene experience.
Before I dive into our adventure, I have some fascinating and fun facts to share with you.
This charming town—renowned for its rich history and breathtaking natural beauty—is nestled along the picturesque coast of the Sea of Cortez in Baja California Sur, roughly 220 nautical miles north of La Paz, our previous port of call. While Loreto is a popular tourist destination, it stands apart from bustling tourist meccas like Cancun and Cabo San Lucas. This, too, is part of its charm, especially for travelers who prefer a more relaxed and serene experience.
Before I dive into our adventure, I have some fascinating and fun facts to share with you.
- The mountains around Loreto are home to ancient cave paintings and other traces of prehistoric tribes who lived there between 7,200 and 14,000 years ago.
- Modern-day Loreto was founded on October 25, 1697, by Jesuit missionary Juan Maria de Salvatierra. This marked the beginning of the Spanish colonization in this region of the Americas.
- Loreto Bay National Marine Park, established in 1996 with the goal of protecting its rich marine biodiversity and unique ecosystems, earned the prestigious designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its “exceptional natural beauty and ecological significance.”
- In 2012, Loreto was designated a ‘Pueblo Magico’—or Magical Town—an honor bestowed by the Mexican government on smaller, lesser-known towns that showcase unique cultural, historical, or natural significance.
- Locals often boast that Loreto is the second-best place for kayaking in the world—a testament, I’m sure, to its stunning landscape, tranquil waters, and incredible sea life.
Princess Cruises offered many excursions, most of them centered around water-based activities—beaches, kayaking, whale-watching, snorkeling, even a glass-bottom boat ride. Our answer? No, no, no, no, and no!
The one excursion we considered was a two-hour walking tour through the Main Plaza, located in the center of town, to explore the Mission of Our Lady of Loreto, The Jesuit Missions Museum, and Palacio Municipal. I knew the plaza was an easy walk from the pier, as were other points of interest in the heart of Loreto, so I said to Debra, “We can do this on our own, at our own pace,” and she agreed.
Loreto is a tender port, which meant the Ruby Princess had to anchor in the harbor and then transport her passengers to shore on tender vessels. Debra and I planned to disembark at half past 11, after a late breakfast, so we had time to stand topside, where we soaked in the sights along the waterfront.
The one excursion we considered was a two-hour walking tour through the Main Plaza, located in the center of town, to explore the Mission of Our Lady of Loreto, The Jesuit Missions Museum, and Palacio Municipal. I knew the plaza was an easy walk from the pier, as were other points of interest in the heart of Loreto, so I said to Debra, “We can do this on our own, at our own pace,” and she agreed.
Loreto is a tender port, which meant the Ruby Princess had to anchor in the harbor and then transport her passengers to shore on tender vessels. Debra and I planned to disembark at half past 11, after a late breakfast, so we had time to stand topside, where we soaked in the sights along the waterfront.
We spied a few fishing boats and tender vessels as they glided gracefully near the pier, and quaint shops and boutique hotels that lined the Malecon, a charming waterfront promenade. And we gazed at the deep canyons and rugged peaks of the majestic Sierra de la Giganta Mountain range, rising nearly 4,000 feet into the sky.
“Wow!” I exclaimed. “What a grand backdrop to the town below.”
We had crossed our fingers for pleasant weather, but the heat—low 90s—and humidity—30%— made the conditions challenging, especially for Debra. So, I was not surprised when she said, “I’ll go ashore, but I don’t want to be out for long.”
“Fair enough,” I replied. “Of all the landmarks I had hoped to see, I’d like to visit the mission. It’s only a 15-minute walk from the pier. We’ll have a quick look, then return to the ship.”
When it was time to disembark, we stood in line with fellow passengers, all waiting patiently to board a tender vessel for the short trip to shore. Soon enough, it was our turn.
“Wow!” I exclaimed. “What a grand backdrop to the town below.”
We had crossed our fingers for pleasant weather, but the heat—low 90s—and humidity—30%— made the conditions challenging, especially for Debra. So, I was not surprised when she said, “I’ll go ashore, but I don’t want to be out for long.”
“Fair enough,” I replied. “Of all the landmarks I had hoped to see, I’d like to visit the mission. It’s only a 15-minute walk from the pier. We’ll have a quick look, then return to the ship.”
When it was time to disembark, we stood in line with fellow passengers, all waiting patiently to board a tender vessel for the short trip to shore. Soon enough, it was our turn.
Our Stroll Through the Heart of Loreto
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The tender dropped us at the Malecon, a pleasant boulevard along the waterfront. From there, it was just a short walk to the Main Plaza.
The Malecon was lined with lush shrubs and trees, including Ficus trees pruned into stunning arches—adding a unique and picturesque touch to this waterfront promenade. |
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As we made our way toward the mission, we passed street vendors in stalls with vibrant displays of colorful handmade crafts, quirky souvenirs, and freshly prepared street food. Though Debra and I were tempted by these local goods and treats, we smiled and offered a polite “No, gracias” each time a vendor tried to lure us in.
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Further along, as we neared a small white tent, we heard the warm, acoustic sounds of string instruments that filled the air. This, we discovered, was traditional mariachi, known as mariachi antiguo—an earlier and more rustic form that predated the introduction of brass instruments like trumpets. It was a style, I later read, that “was rooted in the rural regions of western Mexico where mariachi music originated.”
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None of the music was familiar to us—how could it be, right? But that didn’t stop Debra, who waved her hand in time with the music, playfully stepping into the role of a maestro. Her lively gestures brought a smile to my face!
What struck me the most, as I listened to the music, were the emotions—heartfelt and captivating—woven into every song, with themes that most certainly included love, loss, and daily life. The songs we heard weren’t just entertainment—they were a true reflection of the culture and spirit of Loreto.
What struck me the most, as I listened to the music, were the emotions—heartfelt and captivating—woven into every song, with themes that most certainly included love, loss, and daily life. The songs we heard weren’t just entertainment—they were a true reflection of the culture and spirit of Loreto.
With the sounds of mariachi antiguo fading behind us, we approached the Palacio Municipal, or Municipal Palace, a historic building constructed in the 1940s. Despite its name, it was never a true palace; rather, it has always served as the seat of local government and civic activities.
I was drawn to the idea of stepping inside to explore the murals and artwork that depicted the town’s history and heritage. But I had made a promise to Debra: no stop except for the mission, and a promise was a promise.
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In less than five minutes, we reached the most iconic landmark in Loreto—the historic Misión de Nuestra Senora de Loreto Concho. The church, built between 1740 and 1744, showcases 18th century craftsmanship with its stone and mortar construction. While much of the mission's original design remains intact, several areas were carefully restored to preserve their structural integrity. A few features, like the bell tower, were later added to enhance the architectural charm.
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The interior featured a simple yet elegant design, with plastered stone walls—a common practice in mission construction to provide a smooth surface for painting and decoration—and 20-foot-long cedar beams that were salvaged from wooden sailing ships of the colonial era.
The main altar was adorned with religious artwork and statues, including an image of the Virgin Mary—a revered artifact brought from Spain by Father Salvatierra. The mural above the main altar, which featured painted cherubim and saints, was adorned with gold leaf. It was a breathtaking piece of art that reflected the mission’s religious significance.
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From a young age, Debra was captivated by angels—the idea of celestial beings that watched over her—and she treasured an illustrated book filled with angel stories. So, she was thrilled to discover this angelic statue, one of the many religious objects inside the church.
Misión de Nuestra Senora de Loreto Concho, I thought, was not just a place of worship—it continues to function as an active Roman Catholic church—but a living museum that told the story of Loreto’s past. From the mission, we retraced our steps to the pier, where we waited a short time for a tender vessel that delivered us to the Ruby Princess. |
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“Let’s go to the Wheelhouse Bar,” Debra suggested as we stepped on board.
That’s my girl!
There, we relaxed with drinks—a glass of prosecco for Debra, a hearty mug of beer for me—as we unwound and reflected on our day’s escapade.
Though our time in Loreto was brief, it felt remarkably fulfilling: we marveled at its captivating landscape, immersed ourselves in its vibrant culture, and explored its rich history. We couldn’t help but feel, “mission accomplished,” as we savored the fruits of such a delightful experience!
That’s my girl!
There, we relaxed with drinks—a glass of prosecco for Debra, a hearty mug of beer for me—as we unwound and reflected on our day’s escapade.
Though our time in Loreto was brief, it felt remarkably fulfilling: we marveled at its captivating landscape, immersed ourselves in its vibrant culture, and explored its rich history. We couldn’t help but feel, “mission accomplished,” as we savored the fruits of such a delightful experience!